What's good in modern tubular rims?
08-20-15, 02:34 PM
#101
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How is it out of spec? If the specification states it supports a 28t cog, and you monkey with the b-screw so it clears a 32t cog, that is BY DEFINITION "out of spec." "In spec" would imply anything 28t and below. "Out of spec" would be 29t and above.
If your car's specifications state to use premium fuel, and you use mid-grade, you're out of spec.
How is the concept of a "specification" difficult to understand?
If your car's specifications state to use premium fuel, and you use mid-grade, you're out of spec.
How is the concept of a "specification" difficult to understand?
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08-20-15, 02:38 PM
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"Much" better performance? Ok Lance Armstrong, like you could even tell the difference between less than half a pound on your bike or not on your bike. Plenty of studies out there that show that 1lb will result in seconds faster on a 1 hour climb. What you ate the day before or how you slept the night before will have a much bigger impact on how fast you get to the top of a hill than less than 200 grams on your bike.
as i said above, they're quicker to accelerate and easier to keep at speed, it's a proven physics calculation for centripetal force. mass is in the numerator of the equation (F = mv^2/r), so the smaller the mass number, the smaller the force considering V & r are constant.
I would be extremely surprised if you happened to lose a tire through a corner, even if it was just replaced road-side. I have heard multiple people running tubulars with out any glue for testing, and even some crits.
Ever try to adjust a tubular while it stretches on the rim at pressure? Most likely not, even then you would have to deflate the tire to induce any movement by hand or with basic tools.
Ever try to adjust a tubular while it stretches on the rim at pressure? Most likely not, even then you would have to deflate the tire to induce any movement by hand or with basic tools.
08-20-15, 02:39 PM
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How is it out of spec? If the specification states it supports a 28t cog, and you monkey with the b-screw so it clears a 32t cog, that is BY DEFINITION "out of spec." "In spec" would imply anything 28t and below. "Out of spec" would be 29t and above.
If your car's specifications state to use premium fuel, and you use mid-grade, you're out of spec.
How is the concept of a "specification" difficult to understand?
If your car's specifications state to use premium fuel, and you use mid-grade, you're out of spec.
How is the concept of a "specification" difficult to understand?
Again, one of my bikes with a short cage and 11-32 didn't need ANY b-tension adjustment. It just worked right out of the box exactly how Shimano includes it from the factory (about 1/3 of the way screwed in). Do you want to tell me exactly how I'm risking damaging ANYTHING whatsoever?
08-20-15, 02:43 PM
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If. You. Use. A. Short. Cage. Derailleur. That. Is. Specced. With. A. 28t. Max. Capacity. Cog. And. You. Use. It. With. A. 32t. Cog. You. Are. Using. It. Out. Of. Specification. Regardless. Of. Where. The. B. Screw. Is.
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08-20-15, 02:44 PM
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It's this kind of unnecessary stuff that gets old. Can you ever make your point without the attitude?
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08-20-15, 02:46 PM
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I don't use tape, but perhaps bringing a roll of tape would allow you to keep riding without worry.
BTW, this thread is supposed to be about TUBULARS, not B-SCREWS
BTW, this thread is supposed to be about TUBULARS, not B-SCREWS
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08-20-15, 02:47 PM
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Huh? 
Well junior, give us old snobs a link to a tubeless clincher that has no sidewall and is therefore more supple, that you can swap out in 60 seconds, doesn't get pinch flats and that you can ride home when it has a flat and sealant pouring out of a cut
Well junior, give us old snobs a link to a tubeless clincher that has no sidewall and is therefore more supple, that you can swap out in 60 seconds, doesn't get pinch flats and that you can ride home when it has a flat and sealant pouring out of a cut
08-20-15, 02:52 PM
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Though I've never ridden one, nor installed one, so I make no claims to their quality. They just fit the bill of a "tubular" tire that fits on a "clincher" rim.
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08-20-15, 02:53 PM
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You didn't say anything about the cassette being out of spec, you said the b-tension was out of spec, which isn't a true statement.
08-20-15, 02:58 PM
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Alias, its obvious that I don't like you, but I feel compelled to let you know that you are making a legendary ass out of yourself. You might be able to pull out of your tailspin, but I really hope you don't, because you are entertaining me. Thanks.
08-20-15, 03:09 PM
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wiggle.com | Tufo C-Hi Composite Carbon Tubular Clincher Tire | Road Race Tires
Though I've never ridden one, nor installed one, so I make no claims to their quality. They just fit the bill of a "tubular" tire that fits on a "clincher" rim.
Though I've never ridden one, nor installed one, so I make no claims to their quality. They just fit the bill of a "tubular" tire that fits on a "clincher" rim.
08-20-15, 03:09 PM
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08-20-15, 03:10 PM
#115
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wiggle.com | Tufo C-Hi Composite Carbon Tubular Clincher Tire | Road Race Tires
Though I've never ridden one, nor installed one, so I make no claims to their quality. They just fit the bill of a "tubular" tire that fits on a "clincher" rim.
Though I've never ridden one, nor installed one, so I make no claims to their quality. They just fit the bill of a "tubular" tire that fits on a "clincher" rim.
Listen up: there is an immense amount of confusion as to why tubulars provide an insurmountable performance advantage, and why they are used by the entire pro peloton. It has nothing to do with 'tradition'. It is performance at the highest levels.
Look at a clincher rim. See those two hooks that are required to keep the clincher tire on? They are not required on tubulars. The tubular tire is glued onto the rim, dispensing with the two hooks. The hooks are heavy, at the worst possible place for weight on the bike. They are fragile, and they cause pinch flats during impacts.
THE ADVANTAGE IN TUBULARS IS NOT SOME VAGUE INTANGIBLE SUCH AS RIDE QUALITY. I can't tell the difference in 'ride quality' between decent tubulars and clincher tires. THE ADVNTAGE FOR TUBULARS IS IN THE REDUCED RIM WEIGHT AND HIGHER RIM STRENGTH.
08-20-15, 03:30 PM
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I can tell the difference on the chipseal roads I ride, especially cornering on them. But yeah, the clinchers out today are pretty sweet, the gap has narrowed. Tubulars are still superior, though. Just wish the good ones didn't cost so much, that's the only negative to me.
08-20-15, 03:33 PM
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08-20-15, 05:01 PM
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08-20-15, 05:03 PM
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08-20-15, 06:33 PM
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08-20-15, 06:43 PM
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Why? cyclocross or road racing ?
might be better to spend less on each, you can swing a second set of extra wheels since gluing tires takes time
and since tubular tire punctures need a sewing day , get a dozen , then devote a day for patching the batch .
at least CX you do laps by the pits where the extra bike or wheels are.
might be better to spend less on each, you can swing a second set of extra wheels since gluing tires takes time
and since tubular tire punctures need a sewing day , get a dozen , then devote a day for patching the batch .
at least CX you do laps by the pits where the extra bike or wheels are.
08-20-15, 06:47 PM
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08-20-15, 06:50 PM
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For those not aware you can get tubulars professionally repaired with a brand new tube and maybe also tape for about $25-40. For fairly new, pricey tubulars I think it's worth it. If interested, just Google "tubular tire repair". I've done it myself, and the whole process sucks. That from the son, nephew, and grandson of master tailors. I would try Pit Stop first to allow continuing use of the tire without any repair. If that doesn't work, ship it off to the repair service. Jus' sayin'.
08-20-15, 07:00 PM
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I had multiple sets of wheels. Sold them all and kept my Zipp tubs. With a nice pair of nice tires...the ride is hard to beat.
08-20-15, 07:02 PM
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To the person who suggested getting GP-4s, I broke a spoke on a beautifully built GP-4 wheel, and like every other good vintage part, another NOS one will be hard to find - but I would like to find one. Yes, in my opinion as a porkish road rider who just wants to fix his wheel, that is still the go-to rim. Road-hugging weight has its price!
To the person who suggested Velocity tubular rims, thanks a million! That's the kind of thing I've been wanting to learn.
To the people who lauded over their cheap Chinese rims, good and bad: I asked for one of you to share the brand of the cheap Chinese rim to help me be able to shop with some confidence, but no response. Sorry, not thanks for you. I will be damned if I'm gonna experiment with a bunch of unknown rims made of unknown carbon structure (I do know something about composite design) and expect to have great and safe wheels.
To the Mods who took out the troll, thanks, you have cured my headache!
Last edited by Road Fan; 08-20-15 at 07:08 PM.