Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Road Cycling
Reload this Page >

Freehub body, cassette biting on freehub body??

Notices
Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

Freehub body, cassette biting on freehub body??

Old 10-12-15, 08:08 PM
  #1  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Burbank
Posts: 465

Bikes: Fuji roubaix 1.1

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Freehub body, cassette biting on freehub body??

I have a set boyd altamonts and they have an aluminum freehub body
i want to replace it with a steel one or titanium if the price is reasonable
but i dont know which free hub body would it i have a ten speed bike?

Do you guys know which freehub i would need??
allen254 is offline  
Old 10-12-15, 08:36 PM
  #2  
L-I-V-I-N
 
dtrain's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Stafford, OR
Posts: 4,801
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Reach out to Boyd. I think he only has alloy...but I also think you'll struggle to find one that fits on your own.
dtrain is offline  
Old 10-12-15, 08:57 PM
  #3  
Senior Member
 
rpenmanparker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 28,682

Bikes: 1990 Romic Reynolds 531 custom build, Merlin Works CR Ti custom build, super light Workswell 066 custom build

Mentioned: 109 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6556 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 58 Times in 36 Posts
Just get a new alloy one every now and then. Beats the aggravation of searching for steel. And the weight is better. Actually the damage to the freehub body is not such a big deal.
__________________
Robert

Originally Posted by LAJ
No matter where I go, here I am...
rpenmanparker is offline  
Old 10-12-15, 09:08 PM
  #4  
Boyd Cycling owner
 
coachboyd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 412
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 10 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times in 1 Post
The freehub body is unique to our hub. We do have a Ti freehub body coming out in a couple weeks for our new Eternity hubs, but the one you have is aluminum. The notches are not necessarily a bad thing.
I wrote a blog about this and you can check it out here. Notches in a Shimano/Sram freehub body
coachboyd is offline  
Old 10-12-15, 09:24 PM
  #5  
Middle-Aged Member
 
MikeyBoyAz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Mesa, AZ
Posts: 2,276

Bikes: Bianchi Infinito CV 2014, TREK HIFI 2011, Argon18 E-116 2013

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 24 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by coachboyd
The freehub body is unique to our hub. We do have a Ti freehub body coming out in a couple weeks for our new Eternity hubs, but the one you have is aluminum. The notches are not necessarily a bad thing.
I wrote a blog about this and you can check it out here. Notches in a Shimano/Sram freehub body
It's not a big deal until the free cogs are stuck and you need a chain whip to get them off for maintenance... and your shifts are bad because the chain can't engage the next cog. Didn't have this problem with Boyd hubs, rather with PowerTap G3 hubs. Had to switch over the Campagnolo 11 speed to stop the biting.
MikeyBoyAz is offline  
Old 10-12-15, 09:25 PM
  #6  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Burbank
Posts: 465

Bikes: Fuji roubaix 1.1

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by coachboyd
The freehub body is unique to our hub. We do have a Ti freehub body coming out in a couple weeks for our new Eternity hubs, but the one you have is aluminum. The notches are not necessarily a bad thing.
I wrote a blog about this and you can check it out here. Notches in a Shimano/Sram freehub body
aaaa i see,, i just took of my cassette again and i don't know why it looked worst the first time, but its actually not even bad no need to replace thanks though

I wish boyd would make the titanium version for the altamonts will it be compatible with the altamonts??
allen254 is offline  
Old 10-13-15, 05:14 AM
  #7  
Boyd Cycling owner
 
coachboyd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 412
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 10 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times in 1 Post
Originally Posted by allen254
I wish boyd would make the titanium version for the altamonts will it be compatible with the altamonts??
The Titanium freehub body will only be available on the new Eternity hub. That will be a hub option for any of our wheels, but will be a $350 upgrade. We are in production on them right now, and set to release very soon.
coachboyd is offline  
Old 10-13-15, 05:34 AM
  #8  
Senior Member
 
rpenmanparker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 28,682

Bikes: 1990 Romic Reynolds 531 custom build, Merlin Works CR Ti custom build, super light Workswell 066 custom build

Mentioned: 109 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6556 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 58 Times in 36 Posts
Originally Posted by allen254
aaaa i see,, i just took of my cassette again and i don't know why it looked worst the first time, but its actually not even bad no need to replace thanks though

I wish boyd would make the titanium version for the altamonts will it be compatible with the altamonts??
You can extend the useful life of the Al freehub body by occasionally filing down any ridges that are raised up by the cassette gouging into it. This assures that you won't have future trouble removing the cassette. The trick is to not wait too long the first time. Problem is that after a while there won't be enough spline left to keep the cogs from rotating. That will take a while though, but still just be careful to only take off the tops of the gouges. Also I wouldn't want to advise you to do anything that would void the warranty on your hubs/wheels.
__________________
Robert

Originally Posted by LAJ
No matter where I go, here I am...
rpenmanparker is offline  
Old 10-13-15, 08:26 AM
  #9  
pan y agua
 
merlinextraligh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Jacksonville
Posts: 31,273

Bikes: Willier Zero 7; Merlin Extralight; Calfee Dragonfly tandem, Calfee Adventure tandem; Cervelo P2; Motebecane Ti Fly 29er; Motebecanne Phantom Cross; Schwinn Paramount Track bike

Mentioned: 17 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1428 Post(s)
Liked 697 Times in 353 Posts
I've had a lot of aluminum free hubs with gouges. Some bad enough that it took a little bit of effort to get the cassette off.

I've never had a freehub get to the point the cogs wouldn't stay in place, even on a tandem where you're putting twice the torque to the hub.

At most, it's a slight annoyance. If anyone ever got an aluminum freehub to the point of failure, I'm pretty sure they got a lot of use out of it first.

So just keep using the aluminum body, and if ever does fail, replace it.
__________________
You could fall off a cliff and die.
You could get lost and die.
You could hit a tree and die.
OR YOU COULD STAY HOME AND FALL OFF THE COUCH AND DIE.
merlinextraligh is offline  
Old 10-22-15, 06:30 PM
  #10  
Señor Blues
 
on the path's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: upstate NY
Posts: 1,598

Bikes: Cannondale CAAD 10, Breezer Venturi Custom Build, IRO Singlespeed

Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 127 Post(s)
Liked 6 Times in 6 Posts
Originally Posted by rpenmanparker
Just get a new alloy one every now and then. Beats the aggravation of searching for steel. And the weight is better. Actually the damage to the freehub body is not such a big deal.
Oh really??

Attached Images
File Type: jpg
freehub.jpg (94.1 KB, 157 views)
on the path is offline  
Old 10-22-15, 06:35 PM
  #11  
Senior Member
 
rpenmanparker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 28,682

Bikes: 1990 Romic Reynolds 531 custom build, Merlin Works CR Ti custom build, super light Workswell 066 custom build

Mentioned: 109 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6556 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 58 Times in 36 Posts
Originally Posted by on the path
Oh really??

Yes really. That freehub has many thousands of miles left on it. File the raised lumps down to the level of the tops of the splines. It will be fine. But it is mainly not such a big deal because you can just get a new one to replace it if and when that is necessary...which is not for a long time from now.
__________________
Robert

Originally Posted by LAJ
No matter where I go, here I am...
rpenmanparker is offline  
Old 10-22-15, 06:41 PM
  #12  
Señor Blues
 
on the path's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: upstate NY
Posts: 1,598

Bikes: Cannondale CAAD 10, Breezer Venturi Custom Build, IRO Singlespeed

Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 127 Post(s)
Liked 6 Times in 6 Posts
Originally Posted by rpenmanparker
Yes really. That freehub has many thousands of miles left on it. File the raised lumps down to the level of the tops of the splines. It will be fine. But it is mainly not such a big deal because you can just get a new one to replace it if and when that is necessary...which is not for a long time from now.
This is from my main bike. Getting the cassette off was a BIG deal, trust me. I doubt you've ever had to deal with such a situation, so tell me how you would have removed the cassette, in theory. No fair searching.
on the path is offline  
Old 10-22-15, 06:57 PM
  #13  
Senior Member
 
rpenmanparker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 28,682

Bikes: 1990 Romic Reynolds 531 custom build, Merlin Works CR Ti custom build, super light Workswell 066 custom build

Mentioned: 109 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6556 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 58 Times in 36 Posts
Originally Posted by on the path
This is from my main bike. Getting the cassette off was a BIG deal, trust me. I doubt you've ever had to deal with such a situation, so tell me how you would have removed the cassette, in theory. No fair searching.
I do it all the time. Not on my own wheels but on ones I am fixing for friends and the occasional wheel customer. You just have to wiggle it off little by little. Sometimes in a really bad case you have to file the freehub in front of each cog. And once I had to put ice on the aluminum to shrink it relative to the steel cogs. If you don't wait so long to do it, it isn't such a problem. But if you file the splines flat again, you can ride that freehub for a long, long time. Remove it every few months and file it flat so the cassette doesn't get stuck again. I don't have the problem anymore personally because I use SRAM Red cassettes which don't damage aluminum freehubs.
__________________
Robert

Originally Posted by LAJ
No matter where I go, here I am...
rpenmanparker is offline  
Old 10-22-15, 07:20 PM
  #14  
Señor Blues
 
on the path's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: upstate NY
Posts: 1,598

Bikes: Cannondale CAAD 10, Breezer Venturi Custom Build, IRO Singlespeed

Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 127 Post(s)
Liked 6 Times in 6 Posts
Originally Posted by rpenmanparker
I do it all the time. Not on my own wheels but on ones I am fixing for friends and the occasional wheel customer. You just have to wiggle it off little by little. Sometimes in a really bad case you have to file the freehub in front of each cog. And once I had to put ice on the aluminum to shrink it relative to the steel cogs. If you don't wait so long to do it, it isn't such a problem. But if you file the splines flat again, you can ride that freehub for a long, long time. Remove it every few months and file it flat so the cassette doesn't get stuck again. I don't have the problem anymore personally because I use SRAM Red cassettes which don't damage aluminum freehubs.
Clearly, you've never dealt with a case nearly as severe as the one I faced. To try to "wiggle" the cassette did nothing. Prying with a screwdriver, nothing. Tapping with a hammer, nope. It was ON THERE. I've got very long arms, am fairly strong and have long tools for leverage. It seemed as if it was welded into place. I tried several suggestions from very experienced mechanics and nothing worked. I eventually came up with a solution that combined a few suggestions I'd gotten with some innovation of my own.

Look at the photo again. It's not a matter of filing down a few bumps. There are more gouges on the other side of the freehub body and just as deep as those you see. Those gouges are ready to accept the cogs of the cassette and get everything stuck all over again. I've not been foolish enough to just throw the cassette on there without some kind of shims or protectors. That would be insanity.

Yep, it can be a BIG deal..
on the path is offline  
Old 10-22-15, 07:39 PM
  #15  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Above ground, Walnut Creek, Ca
Posts: 6,681

Bikes: 8 ss bikes, 1 5-speed touring bike

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 86 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times in 4 Posts
the trouble with distorted and notched freehub splines is that the notches are not square, they ramp up and the torque created by riding tightens the cassette onto the freehub body. it can be very difficult to get off. the displaced freehub body material can make it even more difficult that one would think. there are probably 60 to 80 notches on a notched freehub.

the hard part is that there is precious little to hold on to while one tries to dislodge the cassette, that doesn't also turn with the cassette. seeing as how the cassette must be turned slightly counter-clockwise to dislodge it, and the freehub is designed to freely turn counter-clockwise too.

the problem and it's solution are similar to the one presented by a freewheel threaded on to a hub, sans rim, and that needs to be removed. ...nothing to hold on to. ... and elusive.

sometimes, two chainwhips (or one by simply shifting on to the small cog and immobilizing the crank) can help if the cassette has a separate small cog. by attaching one to the smallest cog and one to one of the middle cogs, and turning them in opposite directions, with some effort, it's possible to dislodge the multi-cog carrier counter-clockwise.

Last edited by hueyhoolihan; 10-23-15 at 07:36 AM.
hueyhoolihan is offline  
Old 10-22-15, 07:57 PM
  #16  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 2,745

Bikes: S-Works Roubaix SL2^H4, Secteur Sport, TriCross, Kaffenback, Lurcher 29er

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I've used these for years to minimize the gouging and avoid needing to replace freehub bodies.

10 Speed Clip Kit - Small Parts - Parts
svtmike is offline  
Old 10-22-15, 08:52 PM
  #17  
Thread Killer
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 12,373

Bikes: 15 Kinesis Racelight 4S, 76 Motebecane Gran Jubilée, 17 Dedacciai Gladiatore2, 12 Breezer Venturi, 09 Dahon Mariner, 12 Mercier Nano, 95 DeKerf Team SL, 19 Tern Rally, 21 Breezer Doppler Cafe+, 19 T-Lab X3, 91 Serotta CII

Mentioned: 30 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3078 Post(s)
Liked 1,631 Times in 1,005 Posts
I agree it can be a PITA, making a routine, quick service a time-consuming job.

American Classic's solution is brilliant: steel face inserts. It allows them to keep the weight savings of aluminum, but with the durability and usability of the steel, while avoding the considerable expense of titanium.

chaadster is offline  
Old 10-22-15, 09:42 PM
  #18  
Senior Member
 
rpenmanparker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 28,682

Bikes: 1990 Romic Reynolds 531 custom build, Merlin Works CR Ti custom build, super light Workswell 066 custom build

Mentioned: 109 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6556 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 58 Times in 36 Posts
Originally Posted by chaadster
I agree it can be a PITA, making a routine, quick service a time-consuming job.

American Classic's solution is brilliant: steel face inserts. It allows them to keep the weight savings of aluminum, but with the durability and usability of the steel, while avoding the considerable expense of titanium.

Yes, the AC solution is ideal. But few folks appreciate AC roads hubs like you and I do. And they are pricey which is too bad.
__________________
Robert

Originally Posted by LAJ
No matter where I go, here I am...
rpenmanparker is offline  
Old 10-23-15, 04:43 AM
  #19  
Super Moderator
 
Homebrew01's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Ffld Cnty Connecticut
Posts: 21,845

Bikes: Old Steelies I made, Old Cannondales

Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1173 Post(s)
Liked 923 Times in 609 Posts
AC makes (made?) Steel shims that could be used on other hubs (i think).

If I had Shimano type hubs I might try making shims out of shim stock and sliding them in the gap when installing the cassette. Glad I use Campy, so this is not an issue .
__________________
Bikes: Old steel race bikes, old Cannondale race bikes, less old Cannondale race bike, crappy old mtn bike.

FYI: https://www.bikeforums.net/forum-sugg...ad-please.html
Homebrew01 is offline  
Old 10-23-15, 05:52 AM
  #20  
Thread Killer
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 12,373

Bikes: 15 Kinesis Racelight 4S, 76 Motebecane Gran Jubilée, 17 Dedacciai Gladiatore2, 12 Breezer Venturi, 09 Dahon Mariner, 12 Mercier Nano, 95 DeKerf Team SL, 19 Tern Rally, 21 Breezer Doppler Cafe+, 19 T-Lab X3, 91 Serotta CII

Mentioned: 30 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3078 Post(s)
Liked 1,631 Times in 1,005 Posts
Originally Posted by Homebrew01
AC makes (made?) Steel shims that could be used on other hubs (i think).

If I had Shimano type hubs I might try making shims out of shim stock and sliding them in the gap when installing the cassette. Glad I use Campy, so this is not an issue .
Thanks to 11spd cross-compatibility, using a Campagnolo freehub and gear cluster to replace, or instead of, Shimano units is a totally legit way to solve the problem. Campy 11spd gears work perfectly under Shimano 11spd derailleurs, as do Shimano 11spd cassettes work great under Shimano derailleurs.
chaadster is offline  
Old 10-23-15, 05:53 AM
  #21  
Thread Killer
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
Posts: 12,373

Bikes: 15 Kinesis Racelight 4S, 76 Motebecane Gran Jubilée, 17 Dedacciai Gladiatore2, 12 Breezer Venturi, 09 Dahon Mariner, 12 Mercier Nano, 95 DeKerf Team SL, 19 Tern Rally, 21 Breezer Doppler Cafe+, 19 T-Lab X3, 91 Serotta CII

Mentioned: 30 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3078 Post(s)
Liked 1,631 Times in 1,005 Posts
Originally Posted by Homebrew01
AC makes (made?) Steel shims that could be used on other hubs (i think).

If I had Shimano type hubs I might try making shims out of shim stock and sliding them in the gap when installing the cassette. Glad I use Campy, so this is not an issue .
The AC shims are what svtmike posted a link to in post #16 above.
chaadster is offline  
Old 10-23-15, 05:59 AM
  #22  
Señor Blues
 
on the path's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: upstate NY
Posts: 1,598

Bikes: Cannondale CAAD 10, Breezer Venturi Custom Build, IRO Singlespeed

Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 127 Post(s)
Liked 6 Times in 6 Posts
Originally Posted by hueyhoolihan
the trouble with a distorted and notched freehub splines is that the notches are not square, they ramp up and the torque created by riding tightens the cassette onto the freehub body. it can be very difficult to get off. the displaced freehub body material can make it even more difficult that one would think.

the hard part is that there is precious little to hold on to, that doesn't also turn with the cassette, while one tries to dislodge the cassette. seeing as how the cassette must be turned slightly counter-clockwise to dislodge it, and the freehub is designed to freely turn counter-clockwise too.

the problem and it's solution are similar to the one presented by a freewheel threaded on to a hub, sans rim, and that needs to be removed. ...nothing to hold on to. ... and elusive.

sometimes, two chainwhips can be a help if the cassette has a separate small cog. by attaching one on the smallest cog and one on one of the middle cogs, and turning them in opposite directions should, with some effort allow one to dislodge the multi-cog carrier counter-clockwise.
Here's somebody who actually understands how difficult it can be. Thank you.
on the path is offline  
Old 10-23-15, 07:31 AM
  #23  
Super Moderator
 
Homebrew01's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Ffld Cnty Connecticut
Posts: 21,845

Bikes: Old Steelies I made, Old Cannondales

Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1173 Post(s)
Liked 923 Times in 609 Posts
Originally Posted by chaadster
The AC shims are what svtmike posted a link to in post #16 above.
I thought they also made some little sleeves that worked with standard hubs to protect them ?? maybe not.
__________________
Bikes: Old steel race bikes, old Cannondale race bikes, less old Cannondale race bike, crappy old mtn bike.

FYI: https://www.bikeforums.net/forum-sugg...ad-please.html
Homebrew01 is offline  
Old 10-23-15, 07:35 AM
  #24  
Senior Member
 
rpenmanparker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 28,682

Bikes: 1990 Romic Reynolds 531 custom build, Merlin Works CR Ti custom build, super light Workswell 066 custom build

Mentioned: 109 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6556 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 58 Times in 36 Posts
Originally Posted by Homebrew01
I thought they also made some little sleeves that worked with standard hubs to protect them ?? maybe not.
That's the shims.
__________________
Robert

Originally Posted by LAJ
No matter where I go, here I am...
rpenmanparker is offline  
Old 10-23-15, 10:02 AM
  #25  
Middle-Aged Member
 
MikeyBoyAz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Mesa, AZ
Posts: 2,276

Bikes: Bianchi Infinito CV 2014, TREK HIFI 2011, Argon18 E-116 2013

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 24 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by on the path
Here's somebody who actually understands how difficult it can be. Thank you.
I understand, and posted exactly that scenario back on post #5

Originally Posted by MikeyBoyAz
It's not a big deal until the free cogs are stuck and you need a chain whip to get them off for maintenance...
I had to use a whip on each of the 4 middle cogs of my ultegra cassette to get it out of the aluminium it had bedded in so deep.
MikeyBoyAz is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.