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Software to "Neutralize" parts of a ride? (Strava, Ride with GPS etc)

Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

Software to "Neutralize" parts of a ride? (Strava, Ride with GPS etc)

Old 10-15-15, 12:20 PM
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TheRef
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Software to "Neutralize" parts of a ride? (Strava, Ride with GPS etc)

On my long rides (60+ mile) I like to take the first miles very light as a warm up and to get out of my subdivision and when returning I take it very slow as a cooldown. We are talking 10-12mph. My subdivision leads me to a country roads and within a few miles it's open corn fields and I bring the pace up 17-20mph, Until I hit a few small towns where I have to slow down again to 12-15mph to navigate their "busy" downtown/main street areas.
So while most of my ride I'm above 17-18mph my total moving speeds are dramatically reduced and it ends up being on the 15-16mphs (14ish when " trafic" is bad on the small towns). Also the amount of warm up/ coold down I do can impact the final moving speed of the ride.

Other than bragging rights with friends that think I'm slacking I use those long rides to gauge the effort for the day. I've tried to crop out parts of the ride and I end up with multiple segments over 18mph but I'd like to keep a single file.
Anybody knows of a software that would let me " neutralize" certain parts of a ride and still give me the overall moving average for the rest of the ride??
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Old 10-15-15, 12:53 PM
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Easiest way I can think of is just to turn auto-pause on below 13 MPH, that's cheating though.
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Old 10-15-15, 01:06 PM
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Or hit the lap button when you leave your suburb, cross through towns, etc. Then look at numbers from every other lap, the ones with bigger numbers.

I'd also recommend using heart rate or power to judge your efforts, instead of speed.
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Old 10-15-15, 01:06 PM
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Just treat them as different rides. When you get to the end of the trafficy part, hit stop, reset, and restart. Repeat on the way back. Now you have three rides: 2 slow ones, and 1 fast one.
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Old 10-15-15, 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by corrado33 View Post
Easiest way I can think of is just to turn auto-pause on below 13 MPH, that's cheating though.
I was going to say 10 MPH, but 13 works too.
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Old 10-15-15, 01:27 PM
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No pause button?
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Old 10-15-15, 01:30 PM
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Create segments for those unhindered parts of the ride and use them as your gauge.

[edit] Just saw your desire to keep a single file/ride.

Last edited by Alasdair; 10-15-15 at 01:32 PM. Reason: Re-read OP
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Old 10-15-15, 01:36 PM
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Sorry, I missed the part about keeping it a single file. In that case, use the lap button.
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Old 10-15-15, 01:42 PM
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Average speed isn't that useful a metric, for the reasons you note above, but if you ride the same route very often, it's not taht gard to compare one ride to another. Consider getting a power meter, then you will be able to compare apples to apples.
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Old 10-15-15, 02:09 PM
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It seems like many of the people around me are really concerned with their average speeds when it comes to certain routes so I see them hitting the lap button on their garmins right after we begin riding and right before we end when we are doing warm ups/cool downs. Then, when they get on strava they have three rides to my one, and my "average speed" is always lower. I guess if I cared enough about it I would start hitting that lap button but to me average speed means absolutley squat.
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Old 10-15-15, 02:14 PM
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Originally Posted by corrado33 View Post
Easiest way I can think of is just to turn auto-pause on below 13 MPH, that's cheating though.
It's amazing how much faster I got and I'm only riding half as much as before!
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Old 10-15-15, 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by RJM View Post
It seems like many of the people around me are really concerned with their average speeds when it comes to certain routes so I see them hitting the lap button on their garmins right after we begin riding and right before we end when we are doing warm ups/cool downs. Then, when they get on strava they have three rides to my one, and my "average speed" is always lower. I guess if I cared enough about it I would start hitting that lap button but to me average speed means absolutley squat.
If you scroll down (in Garmin Connect, I'm sure also in Strava and Training Peaks etc) to where it has "splits," between "stats" and "segments," it'll show the laps that make up a ride. You get pretty much all your stats broken out by lap, including normalized power. You still only have one ride, there's just more detail on how it breaks down if you care to have that. I don't think there's a downside other than having to hit the button.

When I do big climb rides, I'll hit lap at the top before I head down. So I have one lap for the ascent and another for the descent. Took me 2 hours and 180 watts to get to the top and 40 minutes and 106 watts to get down when I did Washington Pass recently.
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Old 10-15-15, 04:30 PM
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Going faster on the fast sections will raise your overall average. HTFU already..
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Old 10-15-15, 05:39 PM
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Kind of annoying to follow people in strava that split rides up like that. It spams my activities page.
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Old 10-15-15, 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by on the path View Post
Going faster on the fast sections will raise your overall average. HTFU already..
Originally Posted by f4rrest View Post
Kind of annoying to follow people in strava that split rides up like that. It spams my activities page.
Agreed !!!
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Old 10-15-15, 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by RPK79 View Post
I was going to say 10 MPH, but 13 works too.
The problem with that is that it won't register the distance covered while under that speed.
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Old 10-15-15, 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by TheRef View Post
The problem with that is that it won't register the distance covered while under that speed.
So what? It's so slow you feel the need to neutralize it anyway.

My recommendation is to stop caring and own your numbers without caveat.
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Old 10-15-15, 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by svtmike View Post
So what? It's so slow you feel the need to neutralize it anyway.

My recommendation is to stop caring and own your numbers without caveat.
Stop caring? About what really? I like to know how many miles I rode on a particular ride. I also like to know how fast I did when I was actually riding fast. That as far as it goes. I don't care much more than that.
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Old 10-15-15, 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by TheRef View Post
Stop caring? About what really? I like to know how many miles I rode on a particular ride. I also like to know how fast I did when I was actually riding fast. That as far as it goes. I don't care much more than that.
If it's a garmin device you can have it trigger laps at GPS locations too. Just a thought.
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Old 10-15-15, 07:38 PM
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1) Use the lap feature. Manually pick the laps. Treat the laps like a "ride."

2) Stop caring about silly stuff. Seriously.

Moving average is a terrible way to measure your efforts. Variations in route, wind, temperature, stoplights all conspire to make it a pretty useless measure.

3) Since your real goal is to measure effort, get a power meter.

I'd start with a CycleOps PowerCal. It runs off of your heart rate, so it'll measure that too; it's very cheap ($50?); it works on any bike; takes zero effort to switch to another bike. It is definitely not accurate enough for training, but it is accurate enough to give you an idea of how hard you're working on a 60-mile ride.

If you really need something more accurate, get a real power meter.
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Old 10-15-15, 08:18 PM
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If you're on Strava and you forget to hit the lap button, you can go to the "Analysis" tab and just click and drag on the elevation profile. It will give you data for the selected portion of the ride.
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Old 10-16-15, 04:10 AM
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How about splitting the difference? Just cut off only the first few "warm-up" miles. Either don't start tracking until you get going, or cut that segment off when you're finished. If it's a regular ride and you know it's always the same five or six miles or whatever, and you want to know your full total at some point, it's easy enough to just add that number back in as many times as you cut it out. If that doesn't do the trick, setting auto-pause at 4-6 mph would be reasonable for cycling, to cut out the bits where you crawl through traffic at a pedestrian's pace or dawdle around while taking a break (come to think of it, why haven't I done that already?).
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Old 10-16-15, 06:31 AM
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Auto-pause off, it is the only way to live.
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Old 10-16-15, 06:32 AM
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who has time for that ****?

Steve Jones Raw: Starting And Finishing A Marathon Doesn't Make You A Marathoner
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Old 10-16-15, 10:33 AM
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I have a climbing out and back route that I sometimes do for time.

There is an obvious start/stop point that would eliminate the short town section, making it a more repeatable/shareable ride.

Apparently, it doesn't matter that much to me.

I have on occasion stopped the timer to eliminate the post-beer mile home in order to avoid dragging down a mph average that I'm happy with.
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