Software to "Neutralize" parts of a ride? (Strava, Ride with GPS etc)
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Software to "Neutralize" parts of a ride? (Strava, Ride with GPS etc)
On my long rides (60+ mile) I like to take the first miles very light as a warm up and to get out of my subdivision and when returning I take it very slow as a cooldown. We are talking 10-12mph. My subdivision leads me to a country roads and within a few miles it's open corn fields and I bring the pace up 17-20mph, Until I hit a few small towns where I have to slow down again to 12-15mph to navigate their "busy" downtown/main street areas.
So while most of my ride I'm above 17-18mph my total moving speeds are dramatically reduced and it ends up being on the 15-16mphs (14ish when " trafic" is bad on the small towns). Also the amount of warm up/ coold down I do can impact the final moving speed of the ride.
Other than bragging rights with friends that think I'm slacking I use those long rides to gauge the effort for the day. I've tried to crop out parts of the ride and I end up with multiple segments over 18mph but I'd like to keep a single file.
Anybody knows of a software that would let me " neutralize" certain parts of a ride and still give me the overall moving average for the rest of the ride??
So while most of my ride I'm above 17-18mph my total moving speeds are dramatically reduced and it ends up being on the 15-16mphs (14ish when " trafic" is bad on the small towns). Also the amount of warm up/ coold down I do can impact the final moving speed of the ride.
Other than bragging rights with friends that think I'm slacking I use those long rides to gauge the effort for the day. I've tried to crop out parts of the ride and I end up with multiple segments over 18mph but I'd like to keep a single file.
Anybody knows of a software that would let me " neutralize" certain parts of a ride and still give me the overall moving average for the rest of the ride??
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Bozeman
Posts: 4,094
Bikes: 199? Landshark Roadshark, 198? Mondonico Diamond, 1987 Panasonic DX-5000, 1987 Bianchi Limited, Univega... Chrome..., 1989 Schwinn Woodlands, Motobecane USA Record, Raleigh Tokul 2
Mentioned: 25 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1131 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Easiest way I can think of is just to turn auto-pause on below 13 MPH, that's cheating though.
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 23,208
Mentioned: 89 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18881 Post(s)
Liked 10,643 Times
in
6,053 Posts
Or hit the lap button when you leave your suburb, cross through towns, etc. Then look at numbers from every other lap, the ones with bigger numbers.
I'd also recommend using heart rate or power to judge your efforts, instead of speed.
I'd also recommend using heart rate or power to judge your efforts, instead of speed.
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Sacramento, California, USA
Posts: 40,865
Bikes: Specialized Tarmac, Canyon Exceed, Specialized Transition, Ellsworth Roots, Ridley Excalibur
Mentioned: 68 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2952 Post(s)
Liked 3,100 Times
in
1,414 Posts
Just treat them as different rides. When you get to the end of the trafficy part, hit stop, reset, and restart. Repeat on the way back. Now you have three rides: 2 slow ones, and 1 fast one.
#7
The cake is a lie!
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Upstate South Carolina
Posts: 550
Bikes: 2006 Fuji Team Pro
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Create segments for those unhindered parts of the ride and use them as your gauge.
[edit] Just saw your desire to keep a single file/ride.
[edit] Just saw your desire to keep a single file/ride.
Last edited by Alasdair; 10-15-15 at 01:32 PM. Reason: Re-read OP
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Sacramento, California, USA
Posts: 40,865
Bikes: Specialized Tarmac, Canyon Exceed, Specialized Transition, Ellsworth Roots, Ridley Excalibur
Mentioned: 68 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2952 Post(s)
Liked 3,100 Times
in
1,414 Posts
Sorry, I missed the part about keeping it a single file. In that case, use the lap button.
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Missouri
Posts: 2,599
Bikes: Giant Propel, Cannondale SuperX, Univega Alpina Ultima
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 616 Post(s)
Liked 365 Times
in
213 Posts
Average speed isn't that useful a metric, for the reasons you note above, but if you ride the same route very often, it's not taht gard to compare one ride to another. Consider getting a power meter, then you will be able to compare apples to apples.
__________________
Formerly fastest rider in the grupetto, currently slowest guy in the peloton
Formerly fastest rider in the grupetto, currently slowest guy in the peloton

#10
I'm doing it wrong.
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 4,875
Bikes: Rivendell Appaloosa, Rivendell Frank Jones Sr., Trek Fuel EX9, Kona Jake the Snake CR, Niner Sir9
Mentioned: 85 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9704 Post(s)
Liked 2,807 Times
in
1,659 Posts
It seems like many of the people around me are really concerned with their average speeds when it comes to certain routes so I see them hitting the lap button on their garmins right after we begin riding and right before we end when we are doing warm ups/cool downs. Then, when they get on strava they have three rides to my one, and my "average speed" is always lower. I guess if I cared enough about it I would start hitting that lap button but to me average speed means absolutley squat.
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 23,208
Mentioned: 89 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18881 Post(s)
Liked 10,643 Times
in
6,053 Posts
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 23,208
Mentioned: 89 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18881 Post(s)
Liked 10,643 Times
in
6,053 Posts
It seems like many of the people around me are really concerned with their average speeds when it comes to certain routes so I see them hitting the lap button on their garmins right after we begin riding and right before we end when we are doing warm ups/cool downs. Then, when they get on strava they have three rides to my one, and my "average speed" is always lower. I guess if I cared enough about it I would start hitting that lap button but to me average speed means absolutley squat.
When I do big climb rides, I'll hit lap at the top before I head down. So I have one lap for the ascent and another for the descent. Took me 2 hours and 180 watts to get to the top and 40 minutes and 106 watts to get down when I did Washington Pass recently.
#13
Señor Blues
Going faster on the fast sections will raise your overall average. HTFU already..
#14
Farmer tan
Kind of annoying to follow people in strava that split rides up like that. It spams my activities page.
#15
Senior Member
Thread Starter
#16
Senior Member
Thread Starter
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 2,745
Bikes: S-Works Roubaix SL2^H4, Secteur Sport, TriCross, Kaffenback, Lurcher 29er
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
#18
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Stop caring? About what really? I like to know how many miles I rode on a particular ride. I also like to know how fast I did when I was actually riding fast. That as far as it goes. I don't care much more than that.
#19
Middle-Aged Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Mesa, AZ
Posts: 2,276
Bikes: Bianchi Infinito CV 2014, TREK HIFI 2011, Argon18 E-116 2013
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 24 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
If it's a garmin device you can have it trigger laps at GPS locations too. Just a thought.
#20
Professional Fuss-Budget
1) Use the lap feature. Manually pick the laps. Treat the laps like a "ride."
2) Stop caring about silly stuff. Seriously.
Moving average is a terrible way to measure your efforts. Variations in route, wind, temperature, stoplights all conspire to make it a pretty useless measure.
3) Since your real goal is to measure effort, get a power meter.
I'd start with a CycleOps PowerCal. It runs off of your heart rate, so it'll measure that too; it's very cheap ($50?); it works on any bike; takes zero effort to switch to another bike. It is definitely not accurate enough for training, but it is accurate enough to give you an idea of how hard you're working on a 60-mile ride.
If you really need something more accurate, get a real power meter.
2) Stop caring about silly stuff. Seriously.
Moving average is a terrible way to measure your efforts. Variations in route, wind, temperature, stoplights all conspire to make it a pretty useless measure.
3) Since your real goal is to measure effort, get a power meter.
I'd start with a CycleOps PowerCal. It runs off of your heart rate, so it'll measure that too; it's very cheap ($50?); it works on any bike; takes zero effort to switch to another bike. It is definitely not accurate enough for training, but it is accurate enough to give you an idea of how hard you're working on a 60-mile ride.
If you really need something more accurate, get a real power meter.
#21
Upgrading my engine
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Alamogordo
Posts: 6,218
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 125 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
If you're on Strava and you forget to hit the lap button, you can go to the "Analysis" tab and just click and drag on the elevation profile. It will give you data for the selected portion of the ride.
#22
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 4,286
Mentioned: 21 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1096 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
How about splitting the difference? Just cut off only the first few "warm-up" miles. Either don't start tracking until you get going, or cut that segment off when you're finished. If it's a regular ride and you know it's always the same five or six miles or whatever, and you want to know your full total at some point, it's easy enough to just add that number back in as many times as you cut it out. If that doesn't do the trick, setting auto-pause at 4-6 mph would be reasonable for cycling, to cut out the bits where you crawl through traffic at a pedestrian's pace or dawdle around while taking a break (come to think of it, why haven't I done that already?).
#24
ka maté ka maté ka ora
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: wessex
Posts: 4,423
Bikes: breezer venturi - red novo bosberg - red, pedal force cg1 - red, neuvation f-100 - da, devinci phantom - xt, miele piste - miche/campy, bianchi reparto corse sbx, concorde squadra tsx - da, miele team issue sl - ultegra
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 25 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times
in
3 Posts
who has time for that ****?
Steve Jones Raw: Starting And Finishing A Marathon Doesn't Make You A Marathoner
Steve Jones Raw: Starting And Finishing A Marathon Doesn't Make You A Marathoner
#25
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Nor Cal
Posts: 6,016
Mentioned: 17 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1814 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 919 Times
in
567 Posts
I have a climbing out and back route that I sometimes do for time.
There is an obvious start/stop point that would eliminate the short town section, making it a more repeatable/shareable ride.
Apparently, it doesn't matter that much to me.
I have on occasion stopped the timer to eliminate the post-beer mile home in order to avoid dragging down a mph average that I'm happy with.
There is an obvious start/stop point that would eliminate the short town section, making it a more repeatable/shareable ride.
Apparently, it doesn't matter that much to me.
I have on occasion stopped the timer to eliminate the post-beer mile home in order to avoid dragging down a mph average that I'm happy with.