Replacing headset bearings
 

It seems like the headset bearings on my 2009 Cervelo S1 might need replacing. The headset has a reproducible click/creak when there is pressure and upon minor handlebar turns

This is my commuter bike and I've been doing most maintenance myself for a year now. I have never replaced threadless headset bearings before and wanted to make sure I bought all the correct parts before I start taking the bike apart.

The bike has a 3T Funda pro carbon fork (1 1/8" steerer) and a Cane Creek ISLT headset.
What size headset bearings do I need to buy for the replacement ? Since this is supposed to be an Integrated headset, do I need a headset press to install the new bearings or would I just be able to press in by hand ? I imagine I would need to get the headset bearing removal tool.

Thanks, V

Bearing replacement is super easy. You just lift out the old ones and drop in the new ones. No tools needed other than an Allen wrench. Nothing else needs replacing...most likely. Before you replace the bearings, however, you might try a clean and grease routine with adjustment of tightness. That could be all you need. Sometimes moisture will cause that creaking.

Assuming your steerer is not tapered (different diameter top and bottom) just Google: Cane Creek 40 Series, 41, 1 1/8" bearings. 41 mm is the nominal inside diameter of the head tube. Amazon is a good source for them. Easy peasey!

BTW, in future this kind of inquiry is better posted on the Bicycle Mechanics forum where the real experts reside.

Are you sure the click is coming from the headset bearings? When was the last time you checked your cable housing? It is not uncommon for old housing to start making a clicking noise when it starts to wear out.

and:

Headset Fit Finder | Cane Creek Cycling Components

I'm going through a process of elimination.
The noise initially presented itself as a creaking/clicking noise and the timing correlated with the pedal stroke at a certain position under stress (hard pedaling).
I removed the bottom bracket, cleaned, greased and reinstalled. Then I noticed the left pedal was not rotating very freely - disassembled, greased and reinstalled.
I retorqued the stem and steerer cap bolts.

The hard creaking sound has disappeared. But the clicking sound is persistent and more of a click than a creak.

The cable housing and cables were replaced about 2500-3000 miles ago and look clean.

The clicking can be reproduced under hard pedaling or by putting pressure on the handlebar while moving and turning the bar side to side.

Sound seems to come from the headtube area. Could be the front hub instead ?

I cannot replicate the sound with the bike on the stand

Check that the front skewer is tight.

They are pretty much useless. All they do is complain that anyone asking a question is lazy for not using google.

Actually we don't, but I'll be sure to remember that when you ask the best way to change a tube... ;)

+1, do this before ordering the headset bearings

I have a 2013 Madone with the same issue, I know it's the headset bearings because eventually rust started coming out of the gap between the fork and the headtube, and if left overnight after a damp ride the bars won't rotate at all unless you give them some force and get the bearings moving again. It now presents itself as a clicking just like you describe.

Unfortunately for me, the Madone has integrated angular contact 1 1/2" to 1 1/8" cartridge bearings. I've dropped the fork and greased everything so that the bike can still steer, but the upper and lower cartridges are basically shot and need to be replaced.

I emailed Trek for exact measurements on these bearings after buying a set I thought would fit with no luck. They told me it's impossible to know the exact measure without having the bike seen by an authorized dealer, and they need a special tool to remove the bearing race on the fork crown.

That's confusing for me because it looks like they're just 2 cartridges that sit in molded grooves, and I gave them my model, year, size, fit type, and serial # so you'd think they would be able to give me information on replacement bearings. Oh well, guess I'll end up swallowing my pride and having a shop do it for what will probably be $100+ on a job that shouldn't cost more than $20.

:-) Yes. Checked that first. Skewer is tight.

Maybe you don't but actually, most do.

Do the bearings not pop out? The bearing measurements and replacement part number is usually etched on the side of the cartridge. If they are seized in the cups just bang em out from behind with a headset cup remover. Squirt some penetrating oil in the and let it soak if necessary. You also shouldn't need to replace the bearing race unless its damaged.

As said elsewhere just take the bearing cartridges out and read the details off the cartridge case side. Order from Amazon or ebay. Or call Cane Creek. They will help you out. You don't need to replace the crown race to replace the bearings.

The top bearing pops out, the bottom cartridge on the fork crown also pulls off but I think the bearing seals and cartridge came apart because the top pulls off with the ball bearings visible and covered in rust, but the angled metal inner part of the bearing remains on the fork almost as if it's seized to the aluminum steerer. I guess I can soak that part in oil and slide it off?

Both upper and lower cartridge bodies are so rusted that I can't see the measurements. I haven't even ridden the bike in the rain all that much (maybe 10 times in 3 years?) but I've read elsewhere that this issue is common on my bike, maybe just poorly designed seals. I'll keep digging around to see if I can find the exact measure for my bike.

Try this finder https://www.canecreek.com/headset-fit-finder

I'm telling you Cane Creek will help you out. They have a headset finder online where you enter your bike specifics, and they tell you what headset you need. If you look up that headset on their site, you will see what bearings are used in it. You may not need the angular contact bearings. They may just be adding to your aggravation.

I just looked it up for you and found that the recommended bearings are what I expected, completely standard, 41/28.6 for the top and 52/40 for the bottom. those measurements are inner and outer diameter. You can find those on Amazon or ebay easily. Just specify the Cane Creek Series 40 bearings for a good quality replacement. They are not angular contact, but as I said above, I think that is just BS.

First, thanks for the help.

Strange to me that the Cane Creek tool doesn't list ACB for this bike. I've found a few other posts with the same issue and they all mention ACB bearings, here's one I just found on chain reaction cycles' site about my specific model of bike-
I'm looking to replace the FSA lower bearing in my integrated headset (Trek Madone 3.1 H2 C 2013). The markings on the outer are:

TH industries 1.5" ACB 36* x 36*.

I can find lots that read 36* x 45* and 45* x 45*, but none that read 36* x 36*.
on Hope Tapered Headset Cartridge Bearing


Answer:



This bearing has dimensions of 52x40x7mm and has 45x45 angular contact.

The bearing required is manufactured by FSA; currently we do not have it in stock as it quite a specific bearing. However the FSA part number is:

160-6751

Guess I just need to track down that FSA part number, and find the matching upper cartridge as well. Hopefully the inner wall of my seized bearing comes off the fork crown without too much grief.

FSA Headset 1 5 36x36 acb MR132 | eBay

Yay!

My mistake. All integrated headsets automatically use ACBs. So Cane Creek wasn't being weird not mentioning that. I guess it is just assumed. My bad saying they weren't necessary. Doh! That is what the angles are on the cartridges. Oh well. Live and learn.

What is strange is that Cane Creek is recommending a 36X45. They should know better. I hope it all works out for you.

I just removed the headset bearings, cleaned them, regreased and installed. the bearing cartridge is stainless steel and has some signs of rust but the bearing moves freely and there is no sign of any creakiness :-(

the bearing is marked "Cane Creek 1 1/8 36 x 45" "HSS20130 Steel"

so, back to diagnosis mode.

Regrease everything and reinstall. the creaking could have just been coming from the cartridge contact with the steerer tube and/or cups.

I think Trek changed the headset components on this level Madone each year between 2011 and 2013, so it may just be that they have incorrect year/part correlation in their database. Anyway, hopefully this one works out. Interesting side effect of rusted bearings is that riding hands free became easier.

I do get what you are saying. In our defense we don't tell people to use Google but we do suggest they try the forum search before posting.

You have no idea how often we get the same questions over and over again...

Vasuvius - first, headset bearings don't wear out frequently if they aren't abused (i.e. - left out in the rain). Keep em greased and they will last the life of your bike - the don't get used that hard.

Second - try greasing your skewers, both of them. And tighten the front one a bit more than it is. I've had clicking noises caused by having my skewers dry - seriously, give it a try. It only takes a minute.