Fuji_cyclist

https://www.fujibikes.com/2005/bikes.asp?id=5#

It looks like I'm going to swap out the American Classic wheels for something with more aerodynamic potential (maybe HED ALPs or Cosmic Carbones)

The brakes are also going to be replaced with some Ti Zero gravity Calipers.

I'm also thinking of replacing the 11-23 with a DA Ti 11-21 cassette.

What other parts should I replace for added performance and weight reduction?

I'm a 130 lbs so the parts don't have to be heavy duty, but I would prefer them to be lightweight.

55/Rad

Dude, we've been through this. Trading out the AC wheels and the brakes for ultra high end parts when you don't know what an Aero bar is only demonstrates that you are looking for something other than a good ride.

Do you have a clue how much the Carbones weigh? The listed weight for a set of clinchers is around 1750 grams (https://www.glorycycles.com/macocasl20.html) and this is from the manufacturer, so it's probably higher. The Sprints you have weigh around 1375 grams and if you have the Sapim spoke option, (I do) they're down to around 1275. These 2 wheels serve entirely different purposes - do you know what they are?

If all you want to do is spend your mom's money and build a bike to impress the unknown faceless people on the internet, so be it. But you'll get far better information and emotional connection over at the Weight Weenie forum.

Go ride that Fuji for a few months - it's a great bike as is.

55/Rad

Fuji_cyclist

Are Ritchey WCS components any good or do I need to switch those too?

How about integrated handlebars and stem? I've seen those while browsing catalogs.

55/Rad

You must be a troll.

Fuji_cyclist

I don't need lightweight wheels. I'm 130lbs on my way to 125lbs.

I need wheels that can help my aerodynamics.

The HED Alps are both aerodynamic and lightweight. Win/win situation.

I just want my bike to be the best it can be.

blandin

Rad I think you're right, take a look at his picture!

late

Hi,
You want to faster, but you're looking at the wheels and chassis.
What makes you faster is the engine. Get a coach, you can get a cheap one by the month with outfits like CTS. Try competition, there is nothing that shows up your weak points like being dropped. The greatest rider that ever lived was Eddy Merckx. When asked what his secret was he said... "Ride lots".

The_Convert

give up on this idiot.

Fuji_cyclist

Maybe I should have bought a better bike, OK.

But I like how it rides and I have the money spend. I just want to improve it.

Maybe I'm not lance Armstrong, but I want the nicest equipment money can buy.

55/Rad

The bike you have weighs 15.0 pounds. Fifteen freakin' pounds. We are already impressed. It will cost you thousand$ to get it to 14 or less. And you won't be noticeably faster.

That is, unless you start spending as much effort riding it as you do thinking about upgrading it.

55/Rad

pearcem

there was something on here a while ago that showed that the speed difference between normal box rims w/32 spokes and 16 or 18 spoke, deep rim aero rims (the mavics, zipps, etc.) was approximately 2 seconds per mile. Thats it. You really are better off investing in a coach, workout videos, racing, proper nutrition, etc... especially if you are a new rider. These will give you the most benefit. You already have a really nice bike and really nice gear. Ride it for a while, and then when you figure out things that dislike, you can easily swap them out with the money you have saved.

Fuji_cyclist

Eventually I will get a Conago C-50 frameset (after I have earned it with 6 moths hard training). I can always use the upgraded components on the new frame.

I do think my bike is very nice, but I would just like to buy better parts.

pearcem

that's fine if you want to buy better parts, but wait at least a month or two so you can specifically figure out what you're unhappy with so you won't waste your money

Serpico

I think anything less than a Pinarello Dogma Ego with Obermeyer Lightweight Tubulars is gonna hold you back. You need to think bigger, your fuji is a tank at 15lb.

55/Rad

Buying "better" parts without purpose makes you an even bigger poser than me. Shoot, I gotta work harder.

55/Rad

simplyred

Fuji_Cyclist..
I do not understand why you MUST get your bike down under UCI legality. A bike that is 1 or 3 lbs less will cost you more than working off any excess flab on your body.
Don't forget to take a dump before a ride if you're so conscious of the weight of the bike and yourself.

Going faster requires the equilibrium of lower weight AND increased strength. You spend so much time looking at what lighter wheels you can get. Dude.... just work off ANY excess flab you have and make sure you can push like +500 watts for long periods of time before you start thinking of Carbones.

joejack951

If you are getting rid of those junky AC 350 Sprints, I'll take 'em!

henesse

lol, 5 pounder on the way.

IcySmooth51

This fourm has inspired me to shave my head full of shoulder legnth dirty blond hair that I spent a 6 months growing so I can save a few grams and get more aerodynamic. I just know I'd need to do that to beat Fuji_cyclist.

UmneyDurak

I felt bad and like a poseur when I got aerobars for my bike, now I don't feel so bad.

53-11_alltheway

Work on your riding position. If you are new to road cycling it will take some time in order to adopt a low aerodynamic position.

The aerowheels won't do much, but they do look cool.

55/Rad

At least you have a clue as to what they are used for.....


The last offer was $180, so you'll have to better that.

55/Rad

joejack951

$181.49!

Fuji_cyclist

I might keep these wheels. I know they are good, but too many spokes for my bodyweight of 130lbs.

55/Rad

This will be good for a laugh - please explain why you think there are too many spokes for your bodyweight?

55/Rad