I need Help
#1
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I need Help
1st I'm a noob to the site and a 10 month rider.
I currently have a 2013 Fuji Altamira 2.3 with Ultergra components.
Thinking about moving up to a 2015 Cannondale Supersix evo with sram red.
Based on my research this is what I've found are positives to new bike:
1. sram red is better that ultegra and lighter
2. the carbon used on the cannondale is better that the c5 carbon on the fuji
3. it appears that the cannondale is lighter
4. better wheels on cannondale
Here is what I don't know:
1. Will the 2 or 3lbs lighter increase my overall speed?
2. I've heard that the cannondale is stiffer, what does that really mean?
3. both bikes are race bikes I'm assuming.
Any help on the difference would be appreciated.
I currently have a 2013 Fuji Altamira 2.3 with Ultergra components.
Thinking about moving up to a 2015 Cannondale Supersix evo with sram red.
Based on my research this is what I've found are positives to new bike:
1. sram red is better that ultegra and lighter
2. the carbon used on the cannondale is better that the c5 carbon on the fuji
3. it appears that the cannondale is lighter
4. better wheels on cannondale
Here is what I don't know:
1. Will the 2 or 3lbs lighter increase my overall speed?
2. I've heard that the cannondale is stiffer, what does that really mean?
3. both bikes are race bikes I'm assuming.
Any help on the difference would be appreciated.

#2
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Your current Fuji sounds like a nice bike. Why are you looking to buy something new?

#3
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1. No, it probably won't make you any faster.
2. Stiffer may mean better power transfer, or it just may be fatiguing over long rides.
3. Yes, they are both race bikes.
What joejack said: that Fuji is a really nice bike.
2. Stiffer may mean better power transfer, or it just may be fatiguing over long rides.
3. Yes, they are both race bikes.
What joejack said: that Fuji is a really nice bike.

#4
SuperGimp
Welcome to bike forums!
Yeah, the altamira is supposed be a nice bike. Unless it doesn't fit, I'd stick with it. Buy some fancy wheels to make yourself feel better if you must but the secret to being faster is... (shhh) riding faster. Pedal harder! Ride more! It's unlikely a new bike will make you faster. Get a coach if you really want to get faster.
As for SRAM... well, I prefer it to Ultegra but there are probably more people who feel the opposite. It's a bit personal whether you like the fit of the shifters in your hands and whether you like the manner in which shifts are executed. Don't sweat it.
Yeah, the altamira is supposed be a nice bike. Unless it doesn't fit, I'd stick with it. Buy some fancy wheels to make yourself feel better if you must but the secret to being faster is... (shhh) riding faster. Pedal harder! Ride more! It's unlikely a new bike will make you faster. Get a coach if you really want to get faster.
As for SRAM... well, I prefer it to Ultegra but there are probably more people who feel the opposite. It's a bit personal whether you like the fit of the shifters in your hands and whether you like the manner in which shifts are executed. Don't sweat it.

#5
Senior Member
It's your money so if you want a new bike, then go for it! But as new rider the Fuji sounds like plenty of bike, unless you hate the way it rides, or the fit is bad. Upgrading wheelset might give you a marginal speed increase and shed some weight.Seatpost and handlebar upgrades may shave a few grams as well.
Lots of miles, intervals and hard work will give the biggest speed gains.
Lots of miles, intervals and hard work will give the biggest speed gains.

#6
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You're a relatively new rider and already riding more bike than many serious, and probably stronger riders out there. At this stage any difference in bikes is going to be marginal and the place for the greatest improvement is in the engine.
Of course, it's your dough, so feel free to upgrade if you wish, just try to be realistic in your expectations.
Of course, it's your dough, so feel free to upgrade if you wish, just try to be realistic in your expectations.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
“Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.

#8
Full Member
If money is no object, do it. If OTOH, you're interested in a cost/benefit analysis, tell us more about you and your riding style and goals.

#9
Senior Member
You ask a loaded question because there will always be a better bike than the one you have. The Fuji sounds pretty nice and is plenty of bike for anyone, really. Like others have said, if it fits you well then look to upgrade your wheels, I just did on my bike and it totally changes the whole riding experience. Besides that, just get out there and ride!

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You're limited by your lungs, heart and legs. Unless you're a very fast rider 2-3 pounds will do absolutely nothing. No, I don't care what any recreational rider on the internet claims. Bring the drama...


#11
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Before the attacks start ... take into account that this gentleman has only been riding ten months. He has (likely) not even begun to plumb the potential of his Fuji. I recommend saving the cash and hiring a trainer if he wants to see dramatic improvements in performance.
As we all know form other threads, even a microgram of weight loss can bring tremendous performance gains .... but most riders are leaving so much on the table (personal fitness, pedaling efficiency, breathing, power usage) that they will not take the machine to that level or performance where the difference is noticeable. If the guy seriously wants to get fast, he could do more by using a researched, structured training program designed to specifically increase/improve the most important aspects of his body's various systems which affect cycling ability.
Or, if he is less serious but still wants to increase performance, he can simply ride a lot more.
If he is really rich he can buy speed, but only a very tiny amount and for a very high price.
Personally, had I his budget, I would sell the Fuji, buy the Cannondale, and then buy a second bike of a different sort ... maybe a tourer, or something. Having two racing bikes---unless he is racing crits or something, in which case it would be great to have two in case he wrecked one--seems like a less than optimal use of resources.
Summary--I doubt he will be as blown away by the performance difference as he hopes, which means he could be disappointed by his purchase, should he buy the Evo. He should upgrade his fitness before upgrading his bike. (Granted, I am only making unfounded assumptions about his fitness.)

#12
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Do what you can do with what you got.
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GAS is a *****, innit?
I think that the move may provide some short-term satisfaction, but that's about it. In your position, and at this time of the year, I'd rather look at gear that would keep me going throughout the season, if you don't already have it: nice jacket, bib tights, shoe covers, etc. If you already have the appropriate clothing, I'd look at a slop bike with more tire clearance and fenders. If you already have that, I'd sate the GAS by buying some new wheels for the Fuji.
I think that the move may provide some short-term satisfaction, but that's about it. In your position, and at this time of the year, I'd rather look at gear that would keep me going throughout the season, if you don't already have it: nice jacket, bib tights, shoe covers, etc. If you already have the appropriate clothing, I'd look at a slop bike with more tire clearance and fenders. If you already have that, I'd sate the GAS by buying some new wheels for the Fuji.

#14
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2-3 pounds will make a difference, but if you ride constipated then your full-of-crap gut will eliminate that difference.
My love-hate relationship with cycling is that with all the other activities I'm involved with, I have never experienced the law of diminishing returns as dramatic.
Buy what you like and ride it... a lot. When you stop getting faster, buy a power meter and start training to power. When you stop getting faster, hire a coach. When you stop getting faster, fire the old coach and hire another one. Rinse, repeat.
My love-hate relationship with cycling is that with all the other activities I'm involved with, I have never experienced the law of diminishing returns as dramatic.
Buy what you like and ride it... a lot. When you stop getting faster, buy a power meter and start training to power. When you stop getting faster, hire a coach. When you stop getting faster, fire the old coach and hire another one. Rinse, repeat.

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If you really want to spend money you can upgrade to new 11 speed Dura Ace for about $1200 and some 1400g wheels for $500. Then for a $1700 investment you will have a sub 15 lb bike with newer, better performance of the 11 speed Shimano group

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1: no. Not for anyone who isn't racing uphill, and even then it's a tiny gain.
2: for you, probably nothing. Stiffness is oversold. The majority of non racers (and even a lot of racers, coming from personal experience) don't have the power to get anything out of it. If you can feel the bike you have flex under you, then maybe stiffer would matter. I bet you can't though. Stiffness is for sprinters and aggressive climbers. Everyone else has ample stiffness in their bike.
3: I'd rather have a a race bike that would be a good b bike, with fenders and cheap, durable parts. Bonus points for a threaded bottom bracket with an Octalink cartridge, the one I have is bulletproof. Fortunately a bike like that is cheap to acquire. It represents the entry level of the market.
2: for you, probably nothing. Stiffness is oversold. The majority of non racers (and even a lot of racers, coming from personal experience) don't have the power to get anything out of it. If you can feel the bike you have flex under you, then maybe stiffer would matter. I bet you can't though. Stiffness is for sprinters and aggressive climbers. Everyone else has ample stiffness in their bike.
3: I'd rather have a a race bike that would be a good b bike, with fenders and cheap, durable parts. Bonus points for a threaded bottom bracket with an Octalink cartridge, the one I have is bulletproof. Fortunately a bike like that is cheap to acquire. It represents the entry level of the market.

#17
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The Fuji is a good bike. Just ride the hell out of it for 15-20,000 miles, whatever little upgrades you want to tinker with like some wheels or something, get serious about improving your fitness and speed and then think about another bike.
Then again, everyone should have at least two bikes.
Then again, everyone should have at least two bikes.

#18
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Thanks guys. I paid $1800 for the Fuji Altamara and about to buy the Evo Six for $2100 without a crank so $2400 total. Better components and lighter bike with better wheels as well. The Altamara had oval 327's. So for $600 more I feel that I'm getting a steal in a better bike.
I I agree that I need to ride more.
I've returned the Fuji.
I I agree that I need to ride more.
I've returned the Fuji.

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Lol, I love threads where the advice is pretty much universal and yet the person asking goes completely against it anyway. Why even ask, dude?

#22
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Let us know when you pick up the CAAD so we can start giving you options on what bike to replace it with next week.

#23
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RPK, it's a simple economic question now. Would you spend $600 to basically upgrade everything on your bike? Components, Wheels, Weight, Better Carbon ???
Joe, I had 1yr to return bike.
Joe, I had 1yr to return bike.

#24
Portland Fred
However, speed is only one part of cycling. If buying the other bike makes you enjoy the sport that much more, the difference is totally worth it. Now that you have the bike, you get to find out.
