Originally Posted by 79pmooney (Post 18368270)

during that time i had a single bolt post with "micro-adjust" grooves. After hours of fiddling, i got the position dialed in between clicks. Rode that position for 8 years knowing if i ever touched that bolt i could never get it back again.

Ben

Originally Posted by 79pmooney (Post 18368270)

Living the life of a bike racer means you HAVE to ride. That means riding with saddle sore. At close to 10,000 miles/year, year after year, they will happen. Tipping the seat to get it off the sore is just something you have to do. Either that or write off a large portion of your season, either because you took time off or because of the pain and discomfort. But I agree with the importance of the saddle position. As soon as my week or two of "purgatory" was past, I went right back to the position I had before. And that is why I consider two bolt posts so important. As long as I kept track of how much I changed the tilt by amount of bolt turned, I could go back exactly to where I was before. For that I loved the old Campy (and Zeus) posts that required the special bent wrench. The SunTour posts later and now the Thompsons are lighter and much easier to access with ordinary wrenches but far more important, share that ability to replicate the position exactly and without measuring tools, even on the road.

I went 8 years between my last Campy style post and my first SunTour. During that time I had a single bolt post with "micro-adjust" grooves. After hours of fiddling, I got the position dialed in between clicks. Rode that position for 8 years knowing if I ever touched that bolt I could never get it back again.

Ben

Originally Posted by McBTC (Post 18368434)

Ritchey Comp schitts all other posts...

Originally Posted by Billy1111 (Post 18367034)

If i could use a straight post and keep saddle in the middle should i switch? My saddle isnt slammed all the way foward but getting close. My friend gave me a tompson masterpiece and wouldnt mind using it, it looks like I would be able to adjust the saddle tilt much easier

Originally Posted by 79pmooney (Post 18368453)

I went to the website. It looks like it is a single bolt post and it looks like it has micro grooves. I hope I am wrong on both counts but until I hear otherwise, I will stay far away from them. I would much rather ride a 1975 Campy that weighs a ton.

Ben

Originally Posted by rpenmanparker (Post 18367685)

Every 1 degree more of STA is worth about 1 cm less of saddle setback at average saddle heights. Even over a fairly broad range of saddle heights, the plus 1 degree to minus 1 cm relationship holds up pretty well. When there were no zero setback posts, you had to have a 75 degree seat tube angle to get forward enough for time trialing and triathlon type riding. Now you just ride a normal STA and use the zero setback post. I guess some folks would need both, though.

Originally Posted by Road Fan (Post 18368713)

Perhaps we should have another fitting spec, "effective seat tube angle."

Originally Posted by Billy1111 (Post 18369232)

for those that asked, I have had a pro bike fit and it was my first real bike, I have come to think I was NOT properly planted on the the saddle when they did the kops, I think was up a bit on the saddle. So I dont think my sit bones were ever properly supported and as i improved and started getting out on longer rides I was getting a lot of sit bone discomfort........I feel my position is correct but the saddle needs to be moved a bit foward to give me proper support. I could have been sitting wrong the whole time as I dont what it feel like to be sitting correctly! So that is what has lead me to this. I have been trying all sorts of saddle with original bike fit as a guide and all the saddles giving me the same issue. so once I tried moving my butt to the back of the saddles there was an improvement in support but was to far back.......so today i have my original setback post in with the saddle pretty much slammed forward and will see it that helps things out(I only had about a 1 cm of rail left) ....if my theory is correct at all lol

Originally Posted by rpenmanparker (Post 18369265)

Actually 1 cm change is quite a lot on a saddle.

One other thing you should remember: the saddle position is a completely independent adjustment. It has nothing to do with getting the right reach to the handlebars only with butt comfort and pedaling efficiency. It would be helpful for you to clarify what you mean by "there was an improvement in support but was to far back". Do you mean your pedaling was adversely affected, or do you mean you were having trouble reaching the bars. My point is that you get the saddle right for comfort and pedaling efficiency without regard to reach to the bars. When the saddle is just right, if you need to adjust reach, you don't move the saddle, you move the handlebars with a different stem length, angle or flip (up or down).

Originally Posted by Billy1111 (Post 18369321)

Your are right I was to far away from the bars!!! I got you now thank for clearing this up....i have some messing around to do today!!

Having them to far out could have been pulling me forward as well right while I am riding on the hoods?

Originally Posted by rpenmanparker (Post 18369364)

Yes, that's right. Perhaps it would be good to get your saddle right just keeping your hands on the bar tops, which should be within reach. Forget about the hoods and the drops for now. Then when that is done, start playing around with how short a stem you need to comfortably reach the hoods and drops. The pro fit really should have taken care of all this for you.

Not to open up another can of worms, but could the frame be too large for you?

Originally Posted by rpenmanparker (Post 18369265)

Actually 1 cm change is quite a lot on a saddle.

One other thing you should remember: the saddle position is a completely independent adjustment. It has nothing to do with getting the right reach to the handlebars only with butt comfort and pedaling efficiency. It would be helpful for you to clarify what you mean by "there was an improvement in support but was to far back". Do you mean your pedaling was adversely affected, or do you mean you were having trouble reaching the bars. My point is that you get the saddle right for comfort and pedaling efficiency without regard to reach to the bars. When the saddle is just right, if you need to adjust reach, you don't move the saddle, you move the handlebars with a different stem length, angle or flip (up or down).

Originally Posted by McBTC (Post 18368668)

Nope, it has two bolts side-by-side (not fore and aft). The saddle-tip is infinite depending on where the clamp is located on the curve at the top of the post. If a rail is marked you can adjust the saddle fore and aft to the millimeter.

Originally Posted by gsa103 (Post 18370459)

I've got an FSA post like that. Absolutely terrible design, utterly worthless for adjustment. Loosen the bolts the tiniest bits and it goes to hell instantly. Tompson fore/aft posts are sooooo much better.

Originally Posted by Billy1111 (Post 18370163)

@rpenmanparker you hit nailed it! I put the saddle back and put the 100 mm stem and everything fell into place! Was on the saddle correctly and stayed there and reach seemed perfect. so was stem issues all along, I ordered a 110 mm just to see how it is on there but the 100 seems a perfect fit...LOL I gave my friend back his straight thomson and ordered a thomson set back, I know everybody hates the look but I actually like the "laid back" look from my old BMX days Thanx again for all your help and everyone on the thread~ :)