What entry-level road bike should I get?
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What entry-level road bike should I get?
Hey all,
First time posting, hopefully I have not broken any rules yet...
I'm a 16 yr. old, 5'8 130 pound boy who is going to need (well, want) a road bike for commuting around town and for college. My only experience biking is mountain, not road. I'm certain I'm going to want a road bike and not a hybrid or anything, especially because I will be using my bike in place of car.
I am going to be getting $1200 from my parents/uncle to use for something college-specific, and I plan to use some of this towards a bike. What are my choices for a bike around $600? (also if I go to college in a city there will be a chance of theft, so I don't want to spend any more than $800, including all parts and gear, and I'd only spend that much if I fell in love with the bike).
I've been looking at bikes like the Tommaso Forcella, some of the Motobecanes, the Scott Speedster 60, and some older Giants/Fujis. Alternatively I could buy used, or even, as my friend suggested, build from scratch (with his and his dad's help). If not, I could buy a lesser bike and modify it with better parts.
What's the best bet for my situation?
Thanks and happy holidays!
First time posting, hopefully I have not broken any rules yet...
I'm a 16 yr. old, 5'8 130 pound boy who is going to need (well, want) a road bike for commuting around town and for college. My only experience biking is mountain, not road. I'm certain I'm going to want a road bike and not a hybrid or anything, especially because I will be using my bike in place of car.
I am going to be getting $1200 from my parents/uncle to use for something college-specific, and I plan to use some of this towards a bike. What are my choices for a bike around $600? (also if I go to college in a city there will be a chance of theft, so I don't want to spend any more than $800, including all parts and gear, and I'd only spend that much if I fell in love with the bike).
I've been looking at bikes like the Tommaso Forcella, some of the Motobecanes, the Scott Speedster 60, and some older Giants/Fujis. Alternatively I could buy used, or even, as my friend suggested, build from scratch (with his and his dad's help). If not, I could buy a lesser bike and modify it with better parts.
What's the best bet for my situation?
Thanks and happy holidays!
#2
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I'd strongly advise you to make sure whatever you get has braze-ons for a rear rack, if you will be doing the around-town/commuting deal. Some racing-type bikes lack rack mounts.
A lot of the rest of the answer depends on how much you know about bikes and cycling. Do you know about what size you need? Have you test-ridden many bikes? Could you tell if a used bike was a good deal or would need a good deal of work?
Buying a frame and building a bike is rarely cheaper than buying what you want, but you might get a better bike---but if you are really afraid of theft, getting a beat-up looking older bike is safer---though likely anyone who would steal a bike on a collegwe campus would steal any bike they could. Save money on the bike and get a really good lock (Some good ideas in this thread--https://www.bikeforums.net/general-cycling-discussion/1042283-poll-do-you-usually-carry-u-lock.html)
if yo know what size you want and want a new bike, check out BikesDirect. If you can do some mechanics and maintenance, shop used. If you are really afraid of theft, buy three $100 bikes and you will never be without a ride, or out much money.
You could buy two $100 bikes and a $600 BikesDirect bike for riding when you weren't going to leave the bike unattended, and for longer rides.
You could give me the money and ride the bus ... that would ensure that your bike never got stolen.
A lot of the rest of the answer depends on how much you know about bikes and cycling. Do you know about what size you need? Have you test-ridden many bikes? Could you tell if a used bike was a good deal or would need a good deal of work?
Buying a frame and building a bike is rarely cheaper than buying what you want, but you might get a better bike---but if you are really afraid of theft, getting a beat-up looking older bike is safer---though likely anyone who would steal a bike on a collegwe campus would steal any bike they could. Save money on the bike and get a really good lock (Some good ideas in this thread--https://www.bikeforums.net/general-cycling-discussion/1042283-poll-do-you-usually-carry-u-lock.html)
if yo know what size you want and want a new bike, check out BikesDirect. If you can do some mechanics and maintenance, shop used. If you are really afraid of theft, buy three $100 bikes and you will never be without a ride, or out much money.
You could buy two $100 bikes and a $600 BikesDirect bike for riding when you weren't going to leave the bike unattended, and for longer rides.
You could give me the money and ride the bus ... that would ensure that your bike never got stolen.
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I'd get a BD Omni Strada. If you can have only ONE bike, that's the ticket.
A gravel road/adventure bike will take you anywhere you want from the pavement to fire roads.
Later, if you want a road bike buy that after you get a feel on a do-it-all bike.
A gravel road/adventure bike will take you anywhere you want from the pavement to fire roads.
Later, if you want a road bike buy that after you get a feel on a do-it-all bike.
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If you're going to be commuting in traffic, I'd recommend you get a flat bar road bike. Nashbar sells an okay one for $300. It's not great but it will get you around well enough. I'd recommend a flatbar because it lets you have better visibility of the road around you and makes you more visible to others. Also, the brakes and gears are literally at your fingertips. Finally, a flatbar accommodates a mirror much better than a drop bar and you have to get a mirror. Let me repeat, you have to get a mirror.
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I don't disagree ... I will point out that I commuted for about 15 years in dense traffic in the most dangerous cycling city in the nation (at that time) and never used a mirror. You really need to learn to look around without wobbling or swerving. Even a mirror can only tell you so much.
Otherwise, a flat-bar road bike is a good choice. The OP never said anything about wanting to ride off-road, and if he that desire he would have mentioned it, coming from a mountain-biking background. He specified that he wants a road bike, and knows enough to know what he is talking about. He definitely says he does not want a hybrid, so i'd say fat tires are out. Road Bike = Road Bike.
A $300 Nashbar flat-bar road bike makes a lot of sense. I rode similar bikes for a lot of miles and in traffic, the aero advantages of drop bars aren't that big a deal---everything tends to be short spurts, and for longer stretches it is possible to tuck pretty low. Maybe not great for 30-50-mile rides, but for an hour's commute, no problem---plus having the advantages practical mentioned.
On top of that the bike will feel familiar as he used to ride MTB.
On top of the top of that the price is such that he can get rack, locks, bottles, lid, gloves, and whatever else and have plenty left over--so if he does want a drop-bar road bike next season he will be halfway to one of Nashbar's or BD's entry models.
Personally I would never recommend a flat-bar road bike---to me if you are going road, go all-out. However, in certain specific situations I might agree with certain posters who build sensible arguments .... or should I say practical arguments?
Otherwise, a flat-bar road bike is a good choice. The OP never said anything about wanting to ride off-road, and if he that desire he would have mentioned it, coming from a mountain-biking background. He specified that he wants a road bike, and knows enough to know what he is talking about. He definitely says he does not want a hybrid, so i'd say fat tires are out. Road Bike = Road Bike.
A $300 Nashbar flat-bar road bike makes a lot of sense. I rode similar bikes for a lot of miles and in traffic, the aero advantages of drop bars aren't that big a deal---everything tends to be short spurts, and for longer stretches it is possible to tuck pretty low. Maybe not great for 30-50-mile rides, but for an hour's commute, no problem---plus having the advantages practical mentioned.
On top of that the bike will feel familiar as he used to ride MTB.
On top of the top of that the price is such that he can get rack, locks, bottles, lid, gloves, and whatever else and have plenty left over--so if he does want a drop-bar road bike next season he will be halfway to one of Nashbar's or BD's entry models.
Personally I would never recommend a flat-bar road bike---to me if you are going road, go all-out. However, in certain specific situations I might agree with certain posters who build sensible arguments .... or should I say practical arguments?
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What kind of commuting distance are you looking at, and is it mostly in traffic, or are there dedicated paths? Road conditions?
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If you know someone who is familiar with road bikes who can help you assemble/adjust a bike, then I'd go with a used bike from craigslist or a new one from bikesdirect. If you don't have anyone like that, I'd get the entry level Giant Defy, which is an excellent choice for around $500.
You don't want to be commuting around college with anything more expensive than $500. Bikes are just so easily damaged or have parts stolen when parked in public.
You don't want to be commuting around college with anything more expensive than $500. Bikes are just so easily damaged or have parts stolen when parked in public.
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Thanks for the replies everyone!
I will be using it more rides that are 4 to 20 miles in length, all on paved roads w/traffic. I live in hilly New England so gears are a must. Some roads are bumpy but large potholes are rare. I've ridden my MTB practically to death, but if I ever feel the need to go off-road I can use that in place of my road.
As for flat bars vs. drop bars, I'm going to have to test drive some bikes before I make a decision.
I'm also looking at CyclesTime.com for bikes. And I'll be sure to get a mirror-thanks for pointing that out
I will be using it more rides that are 4 to 20 miles in length, all on paved roads w/traffic. I live in hilly New England so gears are a must. Some roads are bumpy but large potholes are rare. I've ridden my MTB practically to death, but if I ever feel the need to go off-road I can use that in place of my road.
As for flat bars vs. drop bars, I'm going to have to test drive some bikes before I make a decision.
I'm also looking at CyclesTime.com for bikes. And I'll be sure to get a mirror-thanks for pointing that out
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If you're going to be commuting in traffic, I'd recommend you get a flat bar road bike. Nashbar sells an okay one for $300. It's not great but it will get you around well enough. I'd recommend a flatbar because it lets you have better visibility of the road around you and makes you more visible to others. Also, the brakes and gears are literally at your fingertips. Finally, a flatbar accommodates a mirror much better than a drop bar and you have to get a mirror. Let me repeat, you have to get a mirror.
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Not sure what city you guys are refering to, but I commuted into downtown Boston from 2004-2006 on a 30 year old drop bar road bike with no mirrors...durring rush hour...I generally felt safe most of the time...of course, I was usually moving faster than the cars...
#11
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I also vote for buying used.
On the topic of commuting, I did it for about five years in Upstate NY and Colorado. Always used a helmet or sunglass-attached mirror. It's true that your "best mirror" is your own self-awareness, but always knowing what's coming up behind you helps. At least once (on RT-83 from Colorado Springs to Parker) I am pretty sure that the mirror was a factor in saving my life.
On the topic of commuting, I did it for about five years in Upstate NY and Colorado. Always used a helmet or sunglass-attached mirror. It's true that your "best mirror" is your own self-awareness, but always knowing what's coming up behind you helps. At least once (on RT-83 from Colorado Springs to Parker) I am pretty sure that the mirror was a factor in saving my life.
#12
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Thanks for the replies everyone!
I will be using it more rides that are 4 to 20 miles in length, all on paved roads w/traffic. I live in hilly New England so gears are a must. Some roads are bumpy but large potholes are rare. I've ridden my MTB practically to death, but if I ever feel the need to go off-road I can use that in place of my road.
As for flat bars vs. drop bars, I'm going to have to test drive some bikes before I make a decision.
I'm also looking at CyclesTime.com for bikes. And I'll be sure to get a mirror-thanks for pointing that out
I will be using it more rides that are 4 to 20 miles in length, all on paved roads w/traffic. I live in hilly New England so gears are a must. Some roads are bumpy but large potholes are rare. I've ridden my MTB practically to death, but if I ever feel the need to go off-road I can use that in place of my road.
As for flat bars vs. drop bars, I'm going to have to test drive some bikes before I make a decision.
I'm also looking at CyclesTime.com for bikes. And I'll be sure to get a mirror-thanks for pointing that out
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Also I forgot to mention that I plan on cycling after college, not just during. So will hopefully be one bike of many.
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For school use, with a higher risk of theft and generally rougher conditions, I'd go for something used from CL. A lot of nice older steel bikes can be had in the $200 range. Look for a solid, well maintained ride that isn't too pretty. They get stolen last. A bike like that will serve you just as well as anything new on your weekend rides and if it does get stolen it's easier to replace.
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I would go with something like this. I think in the USA they are around $300. The url may pull up the Canadian price which is around $600.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P0IN13K/ref=psdc_3405201_t3_B00AWNI21E
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P0IN13K/ref=psdc_3405201_t3_B00AWNI21E
Last edited by elmore leonard; 12-22-15 at 09:43 PM.
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Buy a used Cross Bike with Cantilever brakes.
Since discs came out, the price of canti brake cross bikes have plummetted. Most cross bikes can easily be set up for racks. And cross bikes give you the versatility of wider, off-road tires or road tires for longer, faster rides.
A cross bike is probably your best bet for general riding or commuting, especially in college.
Since discs came out, the price of canti brake cross bikes have plummetted. Most cross bikes can easily be set up for racks. And cross bikes give you the versatility of wider, off-road tires or road tires for longer, faster rides.
A cross bike is probably your best bet for general riding or commuting, especially in college.
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commuting for college?? find an old steel bike for a couple hundy, spend a few bucks cleaning it up (tires/tubes, chain, etc) and ride it. you don't want anything nice if you're gonna park it around a college campus. if you're gonna have $1200 you can get the cheapo and have enough leftover for a used AL frame bike for pleasure riding also.
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May want to look at Vilano and Pure Fix. May need to upgrade on crankset and/or other parts.
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Hey all,
First time posting, hopefully I have not broken any rules yet...
I'm a 16 yr. old, 5'8 130 pound boy who is going to need (well, want) a road bike for commuting around town and for college. My only experience biking is mountain, not road. I'm certain I'm going to want a road bike and not a hybrid or anything, especially because I will be using my bike in place of car.
I am going to be getting $1200 from my parents/uncle to use for something college-specific, and I plan to use some of this towards a bike. What are my choices for a bike around $600? (also if I go to college in a city there will be a chance of theft, so I don't want to spend any more than $800, including all parts and gear, and I'd only spend that much if I fell in love with the bike).
I've been looking at bikes like the Tommaso Forcella, some of the Motobecanes, the Scott Speedster 60, and some older Giants/Fujis. Alternatively I could buy used, or even, as my friend suggested, build from scratch (with his and his dad's help). If not, I could buy a lesser bike and modify it with better parts.
What's the best bet for my situation?
Thanks and happy holidays!
First time posting, hopefully I have not broken any rules yet...
I'm a 16 yr. old, 5'8 130 pound boy who is going to need (well, want) a road bike for commuting around town and for college. My only experience biking is mountain, not road. I'm certain I'm going to want a road bike and not a hybrid or anything, especially because I will be using my bike in place of car.
I am going to be getting $1200 from my parents/uncle to use for something college-specific, and I plan to use some of this towards a bike. What are my choices for a bike around $600? (also if I go to college in a city there will be a chance of theft, so I don't want to spend any more than $800, including all parts and gear, and I'd only spend that much if I fell in love with the bike).
I've been looking at bikes like the Tommaso Forcella, some of the Motobecanes, the Scott Speedster 60, and some older Giants/Fujis. Alternatively I could buy used, or even, as my friend suggested, build from scratch (with his and his dad's help). If not, I could buy a lesser bike and modify it with better parts.
What's the best bet for my situation?
Thanks and happy holidays!
#20
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Ok, I think I am going to get two bikes - one for college and one for pure road biking. My dad might give me his hybrid to use, or I'll go buy for real cheap. I would become way to attached to the road bike to have it stolen. So, what bike should I look at for the road?
#21
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If you don't know what to look for (yet) in a road bike, you don't need a new road bike.
Grab a buddy who knows about bikes (as a sounding board) and go looking at used road bikes. I'm partial to bonded aluminum Treks (86-97), and steel Treks (82-95).
I don't think any carbon bike would be a good choice when it's going to be parked for long periods unattended among other bikes whose riders are not going to be particularly careful around your bike. Steel and Aluminum bikes will take bumps and bruises much more better than a carbon frame bike. Aluminum bikes do not rust. Steel bikes could be more durable than aluminum bikes, but they rust. Rusty, old steel bikes are less likely to be a target of theives than a shiny carbon bike.
An outstanding steel or aluminum Trek 10 years old or older would run you less than $500, probably less than $300 (plus the cost of some new expendables (like tires, tubes, rim strips, and cables).
You're still young, and the odds are that you are going to grow more before you're done. At 5'8" you might fit a bike sized between 52cm and 56cm, depending on leg length. If you were to blow a pile of money on a new bike now, when you are sure of your riding style yet, and frame size, you would be throwing your money away, because in a couple of years, you are going to be looking for another bike with a different size frame and/or different features.
With the money you save by buying a used road bike, you can buy the other stuff you need, plus pick up a used hybrid. Used hybrids depreciate very quickly, and use should be able to get one that costed $500 use a couple of years ago for about $200-$250.
Grab a buddy who knows about bikes (as a sounding board) and go looking at used road bikes. I'm partial to bonded aluminum Treks (86-97), and steel Treks (82-95).
I don't think any carbon bike would be a good choice when it's going to be parked for long periods unattended among other bikes whose riders are not going to be particularly careful around your bike. Steel and Aluminum bikes will take bumps and bruises much more better than a carbon frame bike. Aluminum bikes do not rust. Steel bikes could be more durable than aluminum bikes, but they rust. Rusty, old steel bikes are less likely to be a target of theives than a shiny carbon bike.
An outstanding steel or aluminum Trek 10 years old or older would run you less than $500, probably less than $300 (plus the cost of some new expendables (like tires, tubes, rim strips, and cables).
You're still young, and the odds are that you are going to grow more before you're done. At 5'8" you might fit a bike sized between 52cm and 56cm, depending on leg length. If you were to blow a pile of money on a new bike now, when you are sure of your riding style yet, and frame size, you would be throwing your money away, because in a couple of years, you are going to be looking for another bike with a different size frame and/or different features.
With the money you save by buying a used road bike, you can buy the other stuff you need, plus pick up a used hybrid. Used hybrids depreciate very quickly, and use should be able to get one that costed $500 use a couple of years ago for about $200-$250.
Last edited by RoadGuy; 12-23-15 at 04:10 PM.
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If you don't know what to look for (yet) in a road bike, you don't need a new road bike.
Grab a buddy who knows about bikes (as a sounding board) and go looking at used road bikes. I'm partial to bonded aluminum Treks (86-97), and steel Treks (82-95).
I don't think any carbon bike would be a good choice when it's going to be parked for long periods unattended among other bikes whose riders are not going to be particularly careful around your bike. Steel and Aluminum bikes will take bumps and bruises much more better than a carbon frame bike. Aluminum bikes do not rust. Steel bikes could be more durable than aluminum bikes, but they rust. Rusty, old steel bikes are less likely to be a target of theives than a shiny carbon bike.
An outstanding steel or aluminum Trek 10 years old or older would run you less than $500, probably less than $300 (plus the cost of some new expendables (like tires, tubes, rim strips, and cables).
You're still young, and the odds are that you are going to grow more before you're done. At 5'8" you might fit a bike sized between 52cm and 56cm, depending on leg length. If you were to blow a pile of money on a new bike now, when you are sure of your riding style yet, and frame size, you would be throwing your money away, because in a couple of years, you are going to be looking for another bike with a different size frame and/or different features.
With the money you save by buying a used road bike, you can buy the other stuff you need, plus pick up a used hybrid. Used hybrids depreciate very quickly, and use should be able to get one that costed $500 use a couple of years ago for about $200-$250.
Grab a buddy who knows about bikes (as a sounding board) and go looking at used road bikes. I'm partial to bonded aluminum Treks (86-97), and steel Treks (82-95).
I don't think any carbon bike would be a good choice when it's going to be parked for long periods unattended among other bikes whose riders are not going to be particularly careful around your bike. Steel and Aluminum bikes will take bumps and bruises much more better than a carbon frame bike. Aluminum bikes do not rust. Steel bikes could be more durable than aluminum bikes, but they rust. Rusty, old steel bikes are less likely to be a target of theives than a shiny carbon bike.
An outstanding steel or aluminum Trek 10 years old or older would run you less than $500, probably less than $300 (plus the cost of some new expendables (like tires, tubes, rim strips, and cables).
You're still young, and the odds are that you are going to grow more before you're done. At 5'8" you might fit a bike sized between 52cm and 56cm, depending on leg length. If you were to blow a pile of money on a new bike now, when you are sure of your riding style yet, and frame size, you would be throwing your money away, because in a couple of years, you are going to be looking for another bike with a different size frame and/or different features.
With the money you save by buying a used road bike, you can buy the other stuff you need, plus pick up a used hybrid. Used hybrids depreciate very quickly, and use should be able to get one that costed $500 use a couple of years ago for about $200-$250.
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