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Need Help Finding an Endurance Bike with Ultegra

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Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

Need Help Finding an Endurance Bike with Ultegra

Old 02-03-16, 10:33 AM
  #26  
kenshireen
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Originally Posted by jwalther View Post
What frame size do you need?
I'm 5"11 and ride a 56..
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Old 02-03-16, 10:33 AM
  #27  
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I would spend more and get a Roubaix
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Old 02-03-16, 10:34 AM
  #28  
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Can't beat the value of the Defy bikes. Hundreds less than Trek or Cannondale Endurance bikes for same thing ( carbon, 105 ).
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Old 02-03-16, 10:41 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Maelochs View Post
Expanding on rms13's post, for under $1700 you can have a full carbon frame, $500 1300-gram carbon wheels, and a full Ultegra group with enough left over to buy a saddle, headset, and cables and all the rest and be down the road with a 17- (or much less) lb. bike the like of which no manufacturer can match for the money.

If you get no pleasure from assembling your own bike and just want to ride, for about the same money you can get an approximately 17-lb. Nashbar carbon bike with a lifetime warranty. it doesn't have flashy designer stickers on the side, but it will ride every bit as well as the bike which cost $1000 more and does have "Trek" or "Felt" or whatever plastered on the down tube.

(https://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Produc...2_-1___204687_) Nashbar CR5 Road Bike--- Often on sale for $1500. The cranks, BB, and brakes are FSA but I see no reason to think these are much less good than Ultegra ... and if you can get in on sale for $1500 or even full-priced at 1800 it is a super deal.

I do not work for and am in no way associated with Nashbar and receive no recompense for this post. Nor am I in any way compensated by or affiliated with Workswell, where I would direct you for carbon frames and wheels and sundries.
I just have to make a major correction here. The cranks are Ultegra. NOT FSA.

Also, FSA brakes are pretty crap. They aren't nearly as good as Ultegra.

But looks like a sweet bike for the price I'd definitely be interested in it.

I wonder what the clearance is for tires...

Last edited by exime; 02-03-16 at 10:47 AM.
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Old 02-03-16, 10:41 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by kenshireen View Post
I currently have a 39/53 with a 28 rear.
Will a 34 make that much of a difference
Why yes, yes it will.
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Old 02-03-16, 10:48 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by kenshireen View Post
I currently have a 39/53 with a 28 rear.
Will a 34 make that much of a difference
I run Ultegra 6800 compact with 11-28 rear and I can get up just about anything, and I'm waaaaay too big to be an effective climber.
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Old 02-03-16, 11:12 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by dmcdam View Post
I run Ultegra 6800 compact with 11-28 rear and I can get up just about anything, and I'm waaaaay too big to be an effective climber.
This is my setup. I'm very solidly in the "Clyde" category, and it works for me.
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Old 02-03-16, 12:25 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by dksix View Post
I have ridden with a couple guys who have the 4.5 and love them. It's over the $2K budget and not full Ultegra but the ISO system seems to be the leading technology right now and I like that it's simple but effective. If the OP is willing to stretch the budget the 4.5 would be a great bike.
I highly 3rd this opinion. (Note: I am biased as I own a 5.9)

Also, a note regarding Ultegra vs. 105 11 speed: They are essentially the same, save for materials and weight. There is no shame in having a 105/Ultegra mix.
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Old 02-03-16, 12:48 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by WalksOn2Wheels View Post
I highly 3rd this opinion. (Note: I am biased as I own a 5.9)

Also, a note regarding Ultegra vs. 105 11 speed: They are essentially the same, save for materials and weight. There is no shame in having a 105/Ultegra mix.
I certainly did not mean that I thought the Ultegra/105 mix on the 4.5 was in anyway a liability. The 4.5 is a great value but still not a cheap bike at ~$2500. I felt it important to note the mixed groupsets because the Emonda had been mentioned and it list having full groupset in it's features in everything I've seen published. That's not the case with all Treks.
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Old 02-03-16, 01:01 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by dmcdam View Post
I run Ultegra 6800 compact with 11-28 rear and I can get up just about anything, and I'm waaaaay too big to be an effective climber.
Can you do it at 90 rpms and not blow up? That is the reason to go with the larger cogs in the rear.
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Old 02-03-16, 01:45 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by dksix View Post
I certainly did not mean that I thought the Ultegra/105 mix on the 4.5 was in anyway a liability. The 4.5 is a great value but still not a cheap bike at ~$2500. I felt it important to note the mixed groupsets because the Emonda had been mentioned and it list having full groupset in it's features in everything I've seen published. That's not the case with all Treks.
I hear you, I was more speaking to the OP in terms of the Shimano mix because he seemed set on Ultegra. And yeah, Trek did push a lot on the Emonda line to have FULL 105, Ultegra, etc. on each build but it hasn't been that way for every line.
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Old 02-03-16, 01:45 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by RJM View Post
Can you do it at 90 rpms and not blow up? That is the reason to go with the larger cogs in the rear.
Sometimes I'm grinding a bit lower than 90 but doable most of the time. I get the need for the larger cogs, just that 32-34 seems a bit extreme to me unless one is riding mountains.
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Old 02-03-16, 02:13 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by kenshireen View Post
I currently have a 39/53 with a 28 rear.
Will a 34 make that much of a difference
It's all ratios between tooth counts
The 34 chainring is 13% easier for the same rear cog. (34/39=.87). That's a little more than one rear cog easier.

I'm not sure if a 11-32 works with a standard Ultegra rear derailleur. (I suspect it does work, but ask the bike store.)
You can compare ratios, and one rear shift is anywhere from about 7% to 14%, typically around 8-10% difference. (The differences between cogs change from cog to cog.)

32/34=.94 32 rear and 34 chainring
28/39=.72 28 rear and 39 chainring

.94/.72=1.30 or about 30% easier (actually about 28% without rounding). That's a lot.

But the difference between a 28 and 32 low cog is only about 13%, a little over one shift easier. So you might try the stock 28 low and see how that works for you.
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Old 02-03-16, 03:30 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by rm -rf View Post
It's all ratios between tooth counts
The 34 chainring is 13% easier for the same rear cog. (34/39=.87). That's a little more than one rear cog easier.

I'm not sure if a 11-32 works with a standard Ultegra rear derailleur. (I suspect it does work, but ask the bike store.)
You can compare ratios, and one rear shift is anywhere from about 7% to 14%, typically around 8-10% difference. (The differences between cogs change from cog to cog.)

32/34=.94 32 rear and 34 chainring
28/39=.72 28 rear and 39 chainring

.94/.72=1.30 or about 30% easier (actually about 28% without rounding). That's a lot.

But the difference between a 28 and 32 low cog is only about 13%, a little over one shift easier. So you might try the stock 28 low and see how that works for you.
Thank you

I understand the difference between 28 and 32 isn't much...
So long as I have a 34 on the front I should be OK. I do not ride at 90 and sometimes going up a hill I will drop for less than 50
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Old 02-03-16, 07:38 PM
  #40  
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For shorter, very steep climbs (18-22%), I'll be standing, going 3 mph, at 30 rpm. That's just one pedal stroke a second. Balance is critical at those slow speeds. It's kind of fun for shorter climbs, but I run out of power pretty fast. A 34-28 works good for this.

I also have a gravel bike with a triple. It's low is 30 front, 29 rear. (not too different than a 34-32.) It's good to be able to sit and spin with lighter pedal pressure at a medium cadence on a 10% to 12% grade.

And a few of the local club riders have had 32 or 34 cassettes added (usually with a replacement mountain bike derailleur). It's really helped them to keep up with the club rides when it gets hilly.
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