Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Road Cycling
Reload this Page >

My Venturi Breezer Build - 19.25 pound, steel bike <$850

Notices
Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

My Venturi Breezer Build - 19.25 pound, steel bike <$850

Old 02-06-16, 09:37 PM
  #1  
Inpd
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 1,825
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 401 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
My Venturi Breezer Build - 19.25 pound, steel bike <$850

Hi Everyone,

Thanks for all your help here and in the mechanics section. Well its done and I can say now having built up a bike, I doubt I'll ever buy a bike whole again. Building it up was surprisingly easy and I got exactly what I wanted and I know its done right.

The obligatory first photo is attached as well as the parts/price list. I'll post higher quality photos soon. The steering tube is barely cut and is sticking up like a honey-mooner's d*ck as per the guidance in the mechanics sections and the bar isn't taped white nor is the silver seat post in as yet.

I've only ridden it once for a short 30 mile ride but some immediate things I noticed.

i) I now get what people mean by the benefits of a stiff frame. I push down hard on the pedals and the bike almost pushes back and vooom off I go. I'm not a strong enough cyclist to always make use of the stiff frame but I can clearly see the benefits.

ii) The 105 groupset is really nice. It's clearly faster than my Claris and the 11 gears (I have a 11/32 cassette) offers a wide variety of gears.

iii) The handling of the bike I'm reserving judgment on. The ride I did was pretty mundane with just a few corners. But I do love that I can pedal into corners aggressively.

iv) The benefits of steel I can feel on rougher roads but in all honesty on my smooth paved MUP it was not noticeable.

Thanks again everyone.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg
IMAG1265.jpg (94.6 KB, 822 views)

Last edited by Inpd; 02-06-16 at 09:44 PM.
Inpd is offline  
Old 02-06-16, 10:00 PM
  #2  
MagicHour
Senior Member
 
MagicHour's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: NYC
Posts: 877
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 85 Post(s)
Liked 12 Times in 10 Posts
Spec looks fine, but might want to revisit that spacer stack. If it's a carbon steerer it looks to be around 2X max what you'd want to have for safety. If alloy, still kinda crazy high. Do you have flexibility or other physical limitation?
MagicHour is offline  
Old 02-06-16, 10:16 PM
  #3  
FeltF2Tarmac
Woman make me faster
 
FeltF2Tarmac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 676

Bikes: 2014 Felt F2 Di2 2018 Tarmac Comp Disc

Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 91 Post(s)
Liked 4 Times in 3 Posts
As mentioned that spacer stack is just nuts ( fit not dialed in yet ?)but overall looks good. Can we assume white bar tape? Even with the bar tape figured in that's a great bike for the money. 105 is a fantastic group and so much better than the 5700 stuff. Nicely done.
FeltF2Tarmac is offline  
Old 02-06-16, 10:38 PM
  #4  
Inpd
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 1,825
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 401 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by MagicHour View Post
Spec looks fine, but might want to revisit that spacer stack. If it's a carbon steerer it looks to be around 2X max what you'd want to have for safety. If alloy, still kinda crazy high. Do you have flexibility or other physical limitation?
It's to dial in my fit. So in the mechanics forum I got some good advice to just do a very slight cut and ride with that until I dial in my fit.
Inpd is offline  
Old 02-06-16, 10:59 PM
  #5  
MagicHour
Senior Member
 
MagicHour's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: NYC
Posts: 877
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 85 Post(s)
Liked 12 Times in 10 Posts
Bike looks great! and is definitely, completely safe to ride. Yay!!!! we're all winners!
Originally Posted by Inpd View Post
It's to dial in my fit. So in the mechanics forum I got some good advice to just do a very slight cut and ride with that until I dial in my fit.

Last edited by MagicHour; 02-07-16 at 12:07 PM. Reason: Fixed it
MagicHour is offline  
Old 02-06-16, 11:17 PM
  #6  
rms13
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: SoCal
Posts: 6,517
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 276 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times in 1 Post
Originally Posted by MagicHour View Post
Understood, just realize there usually are mfr guidelines for safety reasons for how many spacers you can run above top headset cover, i.e. Carbon steerer is generally ~3 maybe 4cm MAX of spacer stack. Not sure about alloy but probably not too much more.
Without getting too much into fit, if your saddle height is indeed set correctly looks like you have PLENTY of leeway to work with and still have the bars at a very conservative height in relation to saddle ht-theres Not a lot of seatpost showing. Also don't be afraid to try a shorter stem if you feel too stretched out - those Venturi frames run long and low, I looked into getting one but fit just wouldn't be ideal for me.
Steerer is aluminum and head tube is very short for size. Going to need a few spacers probably just not that many. Bar tape might be useful. I feel like this is the Chinese Democracy of bike builds. I'm sure only Guns N Roses fans will get the reference but basically we've all been hearing about this for so long and I was beginning to think I'd never see a finished product
rms13 is offline  
Old 02-06-16, 11:18 PM
  #7  
DMC707 
Senior Member
 
DMC707's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Oklahoma City
Posts: 4,278

Bikes: Too many to list

Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1041 Post(s)
Liked 377 Times in 253 Posts
Helluva deal ! Race ready steel for less than $900

FWIW -- i wouldnt worry about what these Casper Milquetoast's say about stack height and "safety factors" --- pic of my Litespeed below after i was dialling in an alternative fit after a back injury ---- the original Reynolds fork is hanging on a peg in my workshop , i got a new carbon fork/carbon steerer to get some more elevation

It didnt stay sky high forever , but unless the fork is exceedingly cheesy, its not going to be an issue , --- i would place a gentleman's bet on it.

DMC707 is offline  
Old 02-06-16, 11:29 PM
  #8  
AlmostTrick
Tortoise Wins by a Hare!
 
AlmostTrick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Looney Tunes, IL
Posts: 7,385

Bikes: Wabi Special FG, Raleigh Roper, Nashbar AL-1, Miyata One Hundred, '70 Schwinn Lemonator and More!!

Mentioned: 21 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1539 Post(s)
Liked 905 Times in 488 Posts
Originally Posted by DMC707 View Post
FWIW -- i wouldnt worry about what these Casper Milquetoast's say about stack height and "safety factors" ---
Agreed. It's not a safety factor, it's an image factor... very important to some on BF.
AlmostTrick is offline  
Old 02-06-16, 11:42 PM
  #9  
rms13
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: SoCal
Posts: 6,517
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 276 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times in 1 Post
Originally Posted by AlmostTrick View Post
Agreed. It's not a safety factor, it's an image factor... very important to some on BF.
There could be a safety factor with carbon steerer. Most manufacturers have spec on how many spacers you can run above and beneath the stem
rms13 is offline  
Old 02-06-16, 11:46 PM
  #10  
MagicHour
Senior Member
 
MagicHour's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: NYC
Posts: 877
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 85 Post(s)
Liked 12 Times in 10 Posts
Hey if you guys want to take road bikes and ride around bolt upright, more power to you! But no need to resort to name calling.

Originally Posted by DMC707 View Post
Helluva deal ! Race ready steel for less than $900

FWIW -- i wouldnt worry about what these Casper Milquetoast's say about stack height and "safety factors" --- pic of my Litespeed below after i was dialling in an alternative fit after a back injury ---- the original Reynolds fork is hanging on a peg in my workshop , i got a new carbon fork/carbon steerer to get some more elevation

It didnt stay sky high forever , but unless the fork is exceedingly cheesy, its not going to be an issue , --- i would place a gentleman's bet on it.

Originally Posted by AlmostTrick View Post
Agreed. It's not a safety factor, it's an image factor... very important to some on BF.
MagicHour is offline  
Old 02-06-16, 11:53 PM
  #11  
DMC707 
Senior Member
 
DMC707's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Oklahoma City
Posts: 4,278

Bikes: Too many to list

Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1041 Post(s)
Liked 377 Times in 253 Posts
Originally Posted by MagicHour View Post
Hey if you guys want to take road bikes and ride around bolt upright, more power to you! But no need to resort to name calling.


************************************************************

[h=1]Caspar Milquetoast[/h]From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia


This article is about the character and related usage. For other uses of milquetoast, see Milquetoast (disambiguation).

Christmas card with Caspar Milquetoast by H. T. Webster

Caspar Milquetoast was a comic strip character created by H. T. Webster for his cartoon series The Timid Soul.[SUP][1][/SUP] Webster described Caspar Milquetoast as "the man who speaks softly and gets hit with a big stick". The character's name is a deliberate misspelling of the name of a bland and fairly inoffensive food, milk toast. Milk toast, light and easy to digest, is an appropriate food for someone with a weak or "nervous" stomach

DMC707 is offline  
Old 02-07-16, 12:13 AM
  #12  
AlmostTrick
Tortoise Wins by a Hare!
 
AlmostTrick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Looney Tunes, IL
Posts: 7,385

Bikes: Wabi Special FG, Raleigh Roper, Nashbar AL-1, Miyata One Hundred, '70 Schwinn Lemonator and More!!

Mentioned: 21 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1539 Post(s)
Liked 905 Times in 488 Posts
Originally Posted by rms13 View Post
There could be a safety factor with carbon steerer. Most manufacturers have spec on how many spacers you can run above and beneath the stem
Understood, but carbon steerers have more failures than metal ones do even when these specs are maintained.

Originally Posted by MagicHour View Post
Hey if you guys want to take road bikes and ride around bolt upright, more power to you! But no need to resort to name calling.
There is no way the OP's set up would = "bolt upright". There was no name calling from me.
AlmostTrick is offline  
Old 02-07-16, 04:57 AM
  #13  
Lazyass
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Minas Ithil
Posts: 8,777
Mentioned: 62 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2203 Post(s)
Liked 317 Times in 192 Posts
Nice build. Still tempted to get one.
Lazyass is offline  
Old 02-07-16, 05:01 AM
  #14  
Doctor Morbius
Interocitor Command
 
Doctor Morbius's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: The adult video section
Posts: 3,378

Bikes: 3 Road Bikes, 2 Hybrids

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 596 Post(s)
Liked 62 Times in 38 Posts
Sweet and hard to beat! Did you include taxes, shipping and customs on your components?

Also, if it's comfy and you like it, screw the naysayers.
Doctor Morbius is offline  
Old 02-07-16, 06:07 AM
  #15  
Fiery
Senior Member
 
Fiery's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,360
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 242 Post(s)
Liked 18 Times in 13 Posts
Your right brake/shift lever is considerably lower than the left one. Intentional or careless?
Fiery is offline  
Old 02-07-16, 07:05 AM
  #16  
rpenmanparker 
Senior Member
 
rpenmanparker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 28,682

Bikes: 1990 Romic Reynolds 531 custom build, Merlin Works CR Ti custom build, super light Workswell 066 custom build

Mentioned: 106 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6554 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 49 Times in 32 Posts
Levelling brake levers is easy. You just place a straight edge/rule across the tops of them (no hoods. please) to give you a line that is very close to the line of the bars. Then you can easily sight the comparison of the two lines to see if the ruler is parallel to the bars. It isn't quite so easy to get the twist of the levers around the bars right, but a bit of trial and error will do it.

Re: the spacer stack, yes it is wise to leave the steerer tall when first fitting a new bike. But it makes no sense to leave the steerer taller than you could possibly use it. The stem height is 40 mm. On an aluminum steerer I would limit the under-stem spacer stack to another 40 mm for both safety and aesthetics. You can either start at the bottom of the stack with the bar flipped down and work up or start at the top of the 40 mm stack with the bar flipped up and work down to get the necessary spacer stack before making the final steerer cut.

Here is the rub. Numerous folks, moi aussi, have commented on the long reach and short stack of the Venturi frame. Looking at what OP is starting with for stack and the modest extension of his seatpost, one gets a better idea of what that means, AND one starts to wonder whether OP has bit off a frame he will not be able to chew. If you start with just 40 mm of spacers and the stem flipped up, and the bars are still too low, then unfortunately you have the wrong frame for you. This isn't a bike picked out of the junk heap that you will ride until you can buy a new one, size be damned. This is your new bike; it should fit.

So while it is true that you don't want to overcut a new steerer by mistake before you have the bike properly set up, it is also true that cutting the steerer to the longest length you could properly ride it (40 mm below the stem and whatever is recommended for that steerer above the stem) can't be wrong. If you are going to cut the steerer at all, you might as well cut it to that level. You can't ride it any longer than that and you can't return it anymore anyway.

As we follow this saga through its natural progression, the old saw about a bike only being a good buy if it fits must necessarily be at the fore in our thoughts.
__________________
Robert

Originally Posted by LAJ View Post
No matter where I go, here I am...
rpenmanparker is offline  
Old 02-07-16, 07:10 AM
  #17  
rpenmanparker 
Senior Member
 
rpenmanparker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 28,682

Bikes: 1990 Romic Reynolds 531 custom build, Merlin Works CR Ti custom build, super light Workswell 066 custom build

Mentioned: 106 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6554 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 49 Times in 32 Posts
As an afterthought to the above, the tall spacer stack is helping OP with the long reach due to the backward leaning angle of the steerer. As you go up, you also go back. Likewise the flipped up stem. If at the right or tallest allowable spacer stack the reach turns out the be too long, you can just buy a shorter stem. Whoops! Wait a minute. Where are you going to get one of those matching white stems? Something else to think about.
__________________
Robert

Originally Posted by LAJ View Post
No matter where I go, here I am...
rpenmanparker is offline  
Old 02-07-16, 07:15 AM
  #18  
Lazyass
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Minas Ithil
Posts: 8,777
Mentioned: 62 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2203 Post(s)
Liked 317 Times in 192 Posts
To level the levers you measure from the bottom of the clamp, along the bar down to the tip with both sides equal distance.
Lazyass is offline  
Old 02-07-16, 07:16 AM
  #19  
jamesdak 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Utah
Posts: 6,742

Bikes: Paletti,De Rosa Neo Pro,Pinarello Monviso,Duell Vienna,Giordana XL Super(2)Lemond Maillot Juane (2) & custom & Versailles,PDG Paramount,Serotta CSI,Fuji Opus III,Davidson Impulse,Pashley Guv'nor,Evans,Fishlips,Jan De Reus,Prologue TT,Y-Foil,Softride

Mentioned: 119 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1667 Post(s)
Liked 1,178 Times in 584 Posts
Originally Posted by rpenmanparker View Post
Levelling brake levers is easy. You just place a straight edge/rule across the tops of them (no hoods. please) to give you a line that is very close to the line of the bars. Then you can easily sight the comparison of the two lines to see if the ruler is parallel to the bars. It isn't quite so easy to get the twist of the levers around the bars right, but a bit of trial and error will do it.

Re: the spacer stack, yes it is wise to leave the steerer tall when first fitting a new bike. But it makes no sense to leave the steerer taller than you could possibly use it. The stem height is 40 mm. On an aluminum steerer I would limit the under-stem spacer stack to another 40 mm for both safety and aesthetics. You can either start at the bottom of the stack with the bar flipped down and work up or start at the top of the 40 mm stack with the bar flipped up and work down to get the necessary spacer stack before making the final steerer cut.

Here is the rub. Numerous folks, moi aussi, have commented on the long reach and short stack of the Venturi frame. Looking at what OP is starting with for stack and the modest extension of his seatpost, one gets a better idea of what that means, AND one starts to wonder whether OP has bit off a frame he will not be able to chew. If you start with just 40 mm of spacers and the stem flipped up, and the bars are still too low, then unfortunately you have the wrong frame for you. This isn't a bike picked out of the junk heap that you will ride until you can buy a new one, size be damned. This is your new bike; it should fit.

So while it is true that you don't want to overcut a new steerer by mistake before you have the bike properly set up, it is also true that cutting the steerer to the longest length you could properly ride it (40 mm below the stem and whatever is recommended for that steerer above the stem) can't be wrong. If you are going to cut the steerer at all, you might as well cut it to that level. You can't ride it any longer than that and you can't return it anymore anyway.

As we follow this saga through its natural progression, the old saw about a bike only being a good buy if it fits must necessarily be at the fore in our thoughts.
Some very good points. I keep seeing posts about these frames and with BikeWagon just an hour away I could add one to my stable anyday. But as someone with a bad back who has to ride with saddle and bars pretty much even I just can see fitting one of these to me properly. So, even though N+1 is calling strongly in this case I think I'll resist.

Still a sweet bike though and wish the OP the best with it.
__________________
Steel is real...and comfy.
jamesdak is offline  
Old 02-07-16, 09:04 AM
  #20  
MagicHour
Senior Member
 
MagicHour's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: NYC
Posts: 877
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 85 Post(s)
Liked 12 Times in 10 Posts
This. Careful man, other posters here might jump all over you for being a naysayer or a nervous nelly, whatever
Originally Posted by rpenmanparker View Post
Levelling brake levers is easy. You just place a straight edge/rule across the tops of them (no hoods. please) to give you a line that is very close to the line of the bars. Then you can easily sight the comparison of the two lines to see if the ruler is parallel to the bars. It isn't quite so easy to get the twist of the levers around the bars right, but a bit of trial and error will do it.

Re: the spacer stack, yes it is wise to leave the steerer tall when first fitting a new bike. But it makes no sense to leave the steerer taller than you could possibly use it. The stem height is 40 mm. On an aluminum steerer I would limit the under-stem spacer stack to another 40 mm for both safety and aesthetics. You can either start at the bottom of the stack with the bar flipped down and work up or start at the top of the 40 mm stack with the bar flipped up and work down to get the necessary spacer stack before making the final steerer cut.

Here is the rub. Numerous folks, moi aussi, have commented on the long reach and short stack of the Venturi frame. Looking at what OP is starting with for stack and the modest extension of his seatpost, one gets a better idea of what that means, AND one starts to wonder whether OP has bit off a frame he will not be able to chew. If you start with just 40 mm of spacers and the stem flipped up, and the bars are still too low, then unfortunately you have the wrong frame for you. This isn't a bike picked out of the junk heap that you will ride until you can buy a new one, size be damned. This is your new bike; it should fit.

So while it is true that you don't want to overcut a new steerer by mistake before you have the bike properly set up, it is also true that cutting the steerer to the longest length you could properly ride it (40 mm below the stem and whatever is recommended for that steerer above the stem) can't be wrong. If you are going to cut the steerer at all, you might as well cut it to that level. You can't ride it any longer than that and you can't return it anymore anyway.

As we follow this saga through its natural progression, the old saw about a bike only being a good buy if it fits must necessarily be at the fore in our thoughts.
Originally Posted by rpenmanparker View Post
As an afterthought to the above, the tall spacer stack is helping OP with the long reach due to the backward leaning angle of the steerer. As you go up, you also go back. Likewise the flipped up stem. If at the right or tallest allowable spacer stack the reach turns out the be too long, you can just buy a shorter stem. Whoops! Wait a minute. Where are you going to get one of those matching white stems? Something else to think about.
MagicHour is offline  
Old 02-07-16, 09:33 AM
  #21  
MagicHour
Senior Member
 
MagicHour's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: NYC
Posts: 877
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 85 Post(s)
Liked 12 Times in 10 Posts
Op-FYI Deda, FSA, Ritchey, and Bontrager currently make or have made white gloss stems, shouldn't be hard to find one on eBay if necessary, should you decide to go shorter.
Originally Posted by rpenmanparker View Post
As an afterthought to the above, the tall spacer stack is helping OP with the long reach due to the backward leaning angle of the steerer. As you go up, you also go back. Likewise the flipped up stem. If at the right or tallest allowable spacer stack the reach turns out the be too long, you can just buy a shorter stem. Whoops! Wait a minute. Where are you going to get one of those matching white stems? Something else to think about.
MagicHour is offline  
Old 02-07-16, 09:35 AM
  #22  
rms13
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: SoCal
Posts: 6,517
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 276 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times in 1 Post
Just set it up the way it's meant to be and get more flexible
rms13 is offline  
Old 02-07-16, 09:44 AM
  #23  
rpenmanparker 
Senior Member
 
rpenmanparker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 28,682

Bikes: 1990 Romic Reynolds 531 custom build, Merlin Works CR Ti custom build, super light Workswell 066 custom build

Mentioned: 106 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6554 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 49 Times in 32 Posts
Originally Posted by MagicHour View Post
Op-FYI Deda, FSA, Ritchey, and Bontrager currently make or have made white gloss stems, shouldn't be hard to find one on eBay if necessary, should you decide to go shorter.
Good to know.
__________________
Robert

Originally Posted by LAJ View Post
No matter where I go, here I am...
rpenmanparker is offline  
Old 02-07-16, 09:51 AM
  #24  
Inpd
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 1,825
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 401 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by rpenmanparker View Post
As we follow this saga through its natural progression, the old saw about a bike only being a good buy if it fits must necessarily be at the fore in our thoughts.
Occam's razor. Favor the simpler explanation! I finished setting it up late into the night and just took a picture of the setup.

As to all these naysayers about the bike having issues I don't know how old you are, but even as an older guy I have no trouble with the reach even with the bars one spacer from the bottom.

The only issue is that with the bars down low my gut gets in the way a bit!

Last edited by Inpd; 02-07-16 at 10:46 AM.
Inpd is offline  
Old 02-07-16, 10:51 AM
  #25  
Inpd
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 1,825
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 401 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Doctor Morbius View Post
Sweet and hard to beat! Did you include taxes, shipping and customs on your components?

Also, if it's comfy and you like it, screw the naysayers.
It was $853 including taxes and shipping. All my orders were below $200 so did not attract duties.

Its not an endurance bike that's for sure but I could do a really fast and hard ride for 30 miles without any issues. I'll try doing a century on it soon.
Inpd is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright © 2021 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.