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Originally Posted by rpenmanparker
(Post 18750500)
The beauty of Ti frames is that so many are available in like-new condition but used on ebay.
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this popular brand chek this idea smarthttp://laissezachats.net/180/o.png
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Is that an integral stem-bar? Which?
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Foundry and No22 are both making nice frames.
Here's a No22 http://brimages.bikeboardmedia.netdn...ad-bike-20.jpg |
This! No. 22's are made in upstate NY by the same guys that worked at Serotta. Before buying mine I looked extensively into every single american manufacturer, people stop me to admire the welds and finish, it looks better than a Moots at the eye of many, and it rides like a dream. If it isn't American made I would go for Baum.
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/02...g?v=1456953982 |
Some ridiculously nice bike pics showed up...really improved this thread. I'll check out the No22s.
sbxx1985- which brand is your one? |
I want a Ti bike, I really do.
The first thing I would do is try to convince Nao Tomii to make me a Ti bike. He only does steel so far. Otherwise, I'd get another Spectrum. |
Kualis is nice also
http://enve.com/wp-content/uploads/2...-1-800x532.jpg |
For me it's IF, Firefly, Moots, Lynskey. But mostly because I have an R240, the price was definitely a little easier to swallow than some of the other boutique brands. They all do incredible work, I've been nothing but impressed with my Lynskey. I've ridden a friends IF and it made me lust after Ti.
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I love my Lynskey R330 (from 2009). In November it will be 7 years old and I've got just over 35,000 miles so far. It's stiff, comfortable and light enough for me. And with a little Lemon Pledge, it cleans up well and looks virtually brand new! I bought it as my last bike and at 54 yrs old, it might very well be my last.
But......if I had to replace it, since the R330 is no longer made, I think I'd be tempted by a Moots Vamoots or a Vamoots RSL. But (again)...if money were no object....I'd definately get the Ti bike that I've lusted after for years - a Baum Corretto. http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=520510 |
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http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=520513
There are frame/bike makers who work with various materials and some who work with one or two and other who work with just one. When I was shopping for a Ti frame in 2011 I focused on those who specialized in titanium, and there are a number who have already been mentioned here and some who have not. If you are looking for the top class in Ti frame builders I would add to the list Steve Potts (incredible precision and knowledge of ti frame building), Crisp (he works out of Italy, but if you want the top class add him to the list) and although he works in steel as well as Ti, Mike Desalvo is among the most underrated ti frame builders. I chose Bill Holland and have an exogrid frame that makes me happy every time I ride it, look at it, or think about it. Friends ask me what frame I want next and I cannot think of an answer......... I am that happy |
Love my Seven.
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Originally Posted by Chandne
(Post 18751261)
Some ridiculously nice bike pics showed up...really improved this thread. I'll check out the No22s.
sbxx1985- which brand is your one? |
Kent Eriksen - probably the best Ti frame you can buy
Firefly - my favorite aesthetically, the custom anodizing they're doing these days is extremely desirable Baum - totally custom everything, great build quality, lots of experience. I expect to see a lot more custom 3D printed options in the coming years, design is about to go crazy. |
Originally Posted by rpenmanparker
(Post 18749791)
There is a fetish regarding welds in any metal that is based on the belief that the skill of the craftsman and the integrity of the joint are seen in the near perfection of the welds. Grinding/filing/polishing the slight imperfection smooth is regarded as heretical. According to that belief the very slight visible imperfection is actually perfection. Basically one pays to see the excellent welds and revels in them. If you smooth the welds out, they could have been crappy to begin with, and that just wouldn't do. I happen to disagree, believing as you do that a perfectly smooth joint would be more pleasing. And if you can take away the bumps and get to a smooth seam that has no voids in it, how could that have not have been a functionally good weld in the first place? But then I don't like bubbles in my crystal glassware either. Go figure.
I asked Firefly about this, and say the the only way to polish off the beads in the welds is to grind them, but they do not recommend it because it weakens the frame. Well... how about making the weld thick enough so that a little grinding will not weaken it? But then again, what do I know... |
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Originally Posted by Sargon
(Post 18753904)
I asked Firefly about this, and say the the only way to polish off the beads in the welds is to grind them, but they do not recommend it because it weakens the frame.
Well... how about making the weld thick enough so that a little grinding will not weaken it? But then again, what do I know... |
Originally Posted by BillyD
(Post 18750223)
Yup, I can say the same for my fabulous Merlin.
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im going to go with the old school litespeed just because it was what i always wanted as a little kid looking at bikes. the one with the old school yellow script, i dont really like the new, slope top tube thing that is happening now... so the new school really is nothing i find all that pleasing.. but the traditional diamond frame old school bikes are all great, merlin, litespeed, the rare traditional moots, the eddies, those are the ones i dig.. i really like the vortex too.. its neo traditional, with weird hatchet shaped top tube and down tube.. looks a little battle star galactic but .. it was the last of the traditional shaped litespeed.. then they went to that plain script and slope tube.. i like traditional
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Originally Posted by scuzzo
(Post 18755609)
im going to go with the old school litespeed just because it was what i always wanted as a little kid looking at bikes. the one with the old school yellow script, i dont really like the new, slope top tube thing that is happening now... so the new school really is nothing i find all that pleasing.. but the traditional diamond frame old school bikes are all great, merlin, litespeed, the rare traditional moots, the eddies, those are the ones i dig.. i really like the vortex too.. its neo traditional, with weird hatchet shaped top tube and down tube.. looks a little battle star galactic but .. it was the last of the traditional shaped litespeed.. then they went to that plain script and slope tube.. i like traditional
https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com...06f679e0d9.jpg |
A local rider is selling a ~2010 Mosaic R2 (I know the RT-2, but maybe this is the older version?) for $2,000 with 10-speed DA. I was wondering if it was worth jumping into to try Ti. At that prices, I could likely sell it for a few hundred less and get something new by year-end but I'm not sure if it is a decent deal. Sounds like it is and it is my size but it got me thinking. I'm not sure how the R2 rides, though I suppose he would let me at least take it for a quick spin around the block.
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Do it! Especially if you can get a little test ride first.
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Nice list except you forgot the 2 that are on top of your list...
Firefly Kent Eriksen your list There, fixed!
Originally Posted by Chandne
(Post 18749283)
What are your top 3-4 Ti frame choices? Maybe a small custom and 1-2 "larger" companies. If I had to choose, I'd probably say:
Moots (prob the Vamoots disc RSL or regular RSL) Seven (prob Axiom) Indy Fab (not sure which model) Alchemy (Ailos) I know Lynskey is popular but I'm probably going to skip that brand. I like some of the smaller individual guys (Potts, for example) but have not listed any due to long long wait times and some I have no idea about quality and if they will be around if issues arise. Why do I ask this? Well, I have a couple of nice carbon bikes, a decent aluminum bike, but no Ti. That will be my next ride. I want something relatively stiff that pedals well with just a little bit of compliance for those 70-80 mile rides but most will be 20-40. I do not want something too mushy or soft...it has to be a good climber. So I was starting the thinking process, and need to do some research. I will probably be buying a new MTB next, after which I'll target a Ti bike. The build will be Dura Ace di2 or Dura Ace mech (undecided...prob mech). Moots is local to me, as is Alchemy. Moots is a bit of a drive but an awesome one. Being local is not a must...just a cool coincidence. |
Yes, the new guys, i keep forgetting about until i see their bikes! Super nice, and on my short list!
Originally Posted by tinrobot
(Post 18751048)
Foundry and No22 are both making nice frames.
Here's a No22 http://brimages.bikeboardmedia.netdn...ad-bike-20.jpg |
The Mosiac deal fell through. I asked if he had any flexibility on the price and he said he would get back to me ASAP, Then he responded saying the bike was sod to an acquaintance. That's cool though...wasn't meant to be.
While I research these Ti bikes, should I add 2-3 of the steel builder to the list? I like the feel of steel and it is a bit heavier but not by much. |
Start looking through this. Steel and Ti.
Custom Frame Builders List by State/Country - The Paceline Forum |
Boy, that is a massive list. I'll pick out the ones I know (Alchemy, Indy Fab, etc.) add any of the newer builders not on the list (Bob English maybe isn't there) and do the same as with Ti....have maybe 10 and then narrow it down to 2-3 US-made frames. I'm probably not going to go with Soma, Kona, Ritchey, Gunnar, Waterford, etc. I'll spend a bit more for sure, but this is going to be a bike I will probably keep forever. Not that the others could not be kept forever but they don't have enough of a desirability factor (in my case).
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