69chevy

I got back into road cycling last year and after working pretty hard last Summer, I got my average speed on a 25 mile (fairly hilly) ride to 16.75mph.

I have an H2 (tall head tube) Trek that I rode all of last year. I have the stem "slammed" but wanted to go lower.

I decided this winter to track down an old frame that matched the first bike I owned and built it up for sentimental reasons.

It's a much racier geometry and being 6'3" I was able to get the bars much lower while still keeping the fit within what I can comfortably ride.

After shaking it down and riding my regular loop 3 times this year, my average speed is 17.25mph.

The bikes weight almost exactly the same, with the new one being about 1lb heavier.

I didn't ride this winter due to coaching a basketball team.

Maybe the .5mph is coming from the lower bars, maybe not.. I just find it very interesting that I now finish with a higher speed, less fatigue and nearly all things are equal except my fitness which is actually lower.

wphamilton

Same tires on both bikes?

Even though .5 mph on one ride is not a lot to hang your hat on, I have no trouble believing it. Two inches makes a big difference in position if you're flexible enough to ride lower and it sounds like you are.

silversx80

I've found that being in a motivated state of mind is good for at least another 15-30W. When you're happy on your bike, things just sorta click.

giggity.

therhodeo

You're up .5mph on your average speed? That's probably about a 41 watt increase I'd guess.

Lazyass

My average speed usually varies by at least .5mph on every ride on the same bike.

DrIsotope

I felt like I got faster when I took the spacers out from under my stem-- but I'm now pretty sure it was placebo effect. The bike fits better now, so I'm more comfortable, but I don't think it improved my aerodynamics to such a degree as to actually improve my speed. My daily rides fall into a +/-1.5mph range, so I can't say that any one thing is responsible for gains or losses... other than the engine, which is a weird aggregation of parts that has radically different power output levels from one day to another. Some days it feels easier to average 19mph than it does to do 15mph on others. The bike is just sort of along for the ride.

PepeM

Two things I would add:

1. Just because your bars are lower does not necessarily mean you're more 'aero.'

2. If you want to get lower on the Trek you could just get a different stem. An 'H2' geometry can be made 'aggressive,' head tube size is not all that matters.

69chevy

The stem on my Trek is slammed and-17.

I didn't build my new bike to get lower, I was just able to because of the lower head tube.

I don't know I am more aero, I just know for the last three rides, I am faster and fresher when I finish.

It may have nothing to do with the drop.

Going from 5" to 7" seat to bar drop isn't a "huge" difference, but it seems to be affecting me since tires, wheels, gearing are all the same.

Dan333SP

I've got an H2 geometry frame, probably the same size as yours (60cm, same height as you). Have you ever looked into getting a lower topcap to cover the integrated headset bearing? I'm not sure if the design allows for it, but the topcap seems to add maybe half an inch of unnecessary height that I'd be interested in cutting down at some point. Mine has an FSA headset, I imagine yours is similar.

bmthom.gis

You aren't riding low until you're riding @timtak level of low.

PepeM

I would say 2 extra inches of drop is a considerable change fitwise, although the taller you are the smaller of a difference it makes I guess.

69chevy

I already have the Cobb 5mm cap on it.

69chevy

I'm tall, long torso, long arms (37 sleeve dress shirt).

69chevy

For sure. This was last years average over 6 rides, against 3 ride average this year.

I know it's not a lot of data. Just a casual observation

Dan333SP

Where did you find that cap, and does it fit over the bearing without issue? I'd love to get a little lower as well.

69chevy

5mm Top Cap - Cobb Cycling

It comes with "micro shims".

Add one at a time until the cap no longer touches the head tube.

Fiery

As long as you don't consider a 40% increase huge... BTW, you are now in the Adam Hansen and Ryder Hesyedal range of drop, so more than most professional riders today. Not that there is anything wrong with that, if you are finding your new position comfortable, of course.

Carbonfiberboy 

Yep. That's why trad road position is what it is: faster and more comfortable. That you can use it simply means that you are fit. Good on 'ya.

79pmooney

OP, you are seeing the revelation I saw when I got my Fuji Professional mid-season of my second year of racing. Fit rules! I will bet that the bars being 2" lower is not the only difference between your two bikes. But more important, you just learned some key information about your body and what works for you.

Document it! Measure up that bike. Specifically, measure: Distance to seat vertically and horizontally from the bottom bracket. Same to handlebar tops. Note the seat you have and handlebars (reach, drop and width - drop and width may not have options for your particular bars).

Now, someone could steal your bike and you know what you are looking for if you have to get another. Get the seat in that right place and likewise the handlebars (quite possibly using a very different stem) and your next bike will be as fast. It's all about the engine and the engine here is the combination of your body and the bike that is supporting it. Small differences can make real differences in horsepower, both max and comfortable sustained. Aerodynamics also plays into this but 2" of HB drop isn't a huge aero difference.

I got my racing bike with radically different geometry than anything I had ever ridden and was immediately taking minutes off my 45 mile training loop. Same wheels. Almost the same weight. But it was right for this body and I have used what I learned from that bike as my template ever since.

Ben

timtak

I have a spare 150mm -30 stem (and home made angled spacer).
Slamthatstem by
Timothy Takemoto, on Flickr