1st pair of cycling shorts- Not so sure I like!!
06-17-16, 06:21 AM
#51
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06-17-16, 06:26 AM
#52
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) which stipulates that if a level saddle isn't comfortable, then something else about the bike fit is wrong. When everything else is right, the level saddle is usually the preferred alternative. Folks who obtain professional fittings almost invariably end up with a level or nearly level saddle. Similarly for the pros. Here is a sampling: Pro Bikes - VeloNews.comIn some ways this is similar to the notion that the saddle fore-aft position is independent of reach. You adjust that for comfort and efficiency first, then work on reach other ways. Some things about cycling are just absolute truths not dependent upon personal preference, and that is one of them. You can say you prefer to do otherwise, but most of us agree that would be wrong.
If folks would just accept the level saddle concept similarly, then they would be prompted to go looking for what about their bike fit needed adjustment to make the level saddle comfortable. It could be the saddle model or it could be something about the position on the bike. No matter, the end result would be a much improved riding experience.
.
06-17-16, 06:26 AM
#53
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If you didn't adjust your saddle before riding with your new shorts it's probably just a bit high.
06-17-16, 06:28 AM
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06-17-16, 07:38 AM
#55
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Thanks for all your input guys!!! Went out again today without the padded shorts... honestly, I think the harder/faster I try to go, the worse it gets, and reason being I'm leaned over/stretched out a little more, hence the added pressure. Wondering if I need to either shorten my reach a little or move the saddle forward a pinch more. I noticed when bent over a little more my sit bones were actually off the back of the saddle a bit, and more pressure directly on the 'nether' if that makes any sense.
Just get a saddle with a cutout. For me this makes a night and day difference in comfort on my "sensitive parts". No numbness.
Honestly, I don't even know why they make saddles without cutouts anymore. It would seem most people would benefit from them, and if not, it doesnt hurt to have it.
06-17-16, 12:34 PM
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Ben, if you are of an experimental mindset, maybe you should try lower saddle heights when you start with the saddle level. Perhaps you might make the whole saddle level at the height of the nose that you now have tilted down. Is that comfortable? Then start raising it until you feel like you want to tilt the saddle down. Try riding just a little lower than that with the saddle level. Remember to get the fore-aft position right after you change the height.
While not everyone prefers the saddle to be level, most folks do agree that a level saddle would be preferable for reasons of weight on the hands and tendency to slide forward. So getting to where you could ride with a level saddle could very well be an improvement for you.
Say, wait a minute. Aren't you the guy with whom I was disputing the notion of weight on the hands causing damage to handlebar tape and gloves just a couple of days ago? Could there be a connection here? Could this tremendous weight on your hands you report be due to the sloped saddle? That is the common wisdom. You really should be doing everything possible to level that thing out.
IMO!
While not everyone prefers the saddle to be level, most folks do agree that a level saddle would be preferable for reasons of weight on the hands and tendency to slide forward. So getting to where you could ride with a level saddle could very well be an improvement for you.
Say, wait a minute. Aren't you the guy with whom I was disputing the notion of weight on the hands causing damage to handlebar tape and gloves just a couple of days ago? Could there be a connection here? Could this tremendous weight on your hands you report be due to the sloped saddle? That is the common wisdom. You really should be doing everything possible to level that thing out.
IMO!
If I am cruising the city and sightseeing, sitting up and back far enough to have a seat that passes other's inspection is OK. But not on a bike I own. I like buckling down to doing the work to go fast way to much to saddle myself with a bike that is very uncomfortable both during and after if I do.
Another consideration is riding out of the saddle. I love riding out of the saddle. I love doing it for long stretches. That often means doing it when the road turns upwind. My bars better be far forward and low or I pay a big price in either wind resistance or oxygen uptake as I compress my torso trying to get aero.
I also like the now far from stylish setups of many years ago with deep, long reach bars and the levers set low. This means I can sit up some on the tops and still get my hands where I want them upwind and climbing. I have both this setup and more modern setups (but all on traditional bars, not ergo) where palms over the hoods work so well upwind.
Ben
06-17-16, 01:53 PM
#58
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I have found that I usually have to discreetly reach in and adjust things to find a comfortable position when I get on the bike and get settled on the saddle.
I wish saddles would have the nose drop down a little bit more haps no to he extreme like the Selle SMP saddles do but some thing along those lines. Would not put pressure I that area.
I wish saddles would have the nose drop down a little bit more haps no to he extreme like the Selle SMP saddles do but some thing along those lines. Would not put pressure I that area.
06-17-16, 02:50 PM
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06-17-16, 08:27 PM
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It's a road bike, nothing like the CX3. It's not a radical racing profile, but definitely not an "upright" bike. That's actually the reason I have a Synapse and a CX3. One as a road bike, and the other as a utility/tooling around/path/trail/gravel road bike, with the upright frame. Again, it (synapse) doesn't quite have the radical forward cant of a hard core road bike, but side by side, the profile of the two are nothing alike.
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06-17-16, 08:30 PM
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I hope yours works out better for you than mine. The cut out trick isn't working for me at all. The "beak down" hurts my nad's worse than the stock seat did. Good luck, your body is different than mine, so it just might be the thing for you, but I'd get a "return policy", just in case.
06-17-16, 08:46 PM
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I wear plain old polyester-cotton blend pant shorts and all my saddles are vintage big wide and fat Troxels more than 35-50 years old. I don't have any trouble, but then again I'm in no hurry.
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06-17-16, 08:50 PM
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It always works for me. Of course, I'm one of those guys that sees the tractor sized seat on a tricycle and grins.
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06-17-16, 10:20 PM
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I am a long, lean guy with no muscle mass, no fast twitch muscles and little flexibility. God's gift to me. But I like riding at decent speed and I like being able to cover real ground going upwind. To accommodate this body that I have been unable to trade in for a better one, I ride with my whole position rotated forward around the BB. That means my back is lower, my bars are lower and further forward. To accommodate all that, the seat needs to be tilted down a little more because the anatomy it has to fit is rotated. Yes, it puts more weight on my hands. Yes I have to pay attention to bar and lever setup. But I get to ride as I love. Worth every bit of the challenges.
If I am cruising the city and sightseeing, sitting up and back far enough to have a seat that passes other's inspection is OK. But not on a bike I own. I like buckling down to doing the work to go fast way to much to saddle myself with a bike that is very uncomfortable both during and after if I do.
Another consideration is riding out of the saddle. I love riding out of the saddle. I love doing it for long stretches. That often means doing it when the road turns upwind. My bars better be far forward and low or I pay a big price in either wind resistance or oxygen uptake as I compress my torso trying to get aero.
I also like the now far from stylish setups of many years ago with deep, long reach bars and the levers set low. This means I can sit up some on the tops and still get my hands where I want them upwind and climbing. I have both this setup and more modern setups (but all on traditional bars, not ergo) where palms over the hoods work so well upwind.
Ben
If I am cruising the city and sightseeing, sitting up and back far enough to have a seat that passes other's inspection is OK. But not on a bike I own. I like buckling down to doing the work to go fast way to much to saddle myself with a bike that is very uncomfortable both during and after if I do.
Another consideration is riding out of the saddle. I love riding out of the saddle. I love doing it for long stretches. That often means doing it when the road turns upwind. My bars better be far forward and low or I pay a big price in either wind resistance or oxygen uptake as I compress my torso trying to get aero.
I also like the now far from stylish setups of many years ago with deep, long reach bars and the levers set low. This means I can sit up some on the tops and still get my hands where I want them upwind and climbing. I have both this setup and more modern setups (but all on traditional bars, not ergo) where palms over the hoods work so well upwind.
Ben
PM me if you don't want to make it public knowledge, or don't want to hijack the thread.
06-17-16, 10:30 PM
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Sounds to me like you have saddle issues, not short issues. I think your saddle is either too small or you're sitting on the too-narrow portion of the saddle.
Bike shorts shouldn't make your balls go numb...they should give it a nice platform for them to rest on without them falling down one side or the other of the saddle with a pedal stroke. As far as your 'other part' goes, I mean you gotta shift, or make room so that it's not getting rubbed. Guess that's up to one's individuality, but for me, it turtles up a bit and stays out of the way when I'm cycling.
Bike shorts shouldn't make your balls go numb...they should give it a nice platform for them to rest on without them falling down one side or the other of the saddle with a pedal stroke. As far as your 'other part' goes, I mean you gotta shift, or make room so that it's not getting rubbed. Guess that's up to one's individuality, but for me, it turtles up a bit and stays out of the way when I'm cycling.
06-17-16, 10:54 PM
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06-17-16, 11:24 PM
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Have you ever had a fitting done by a respected/experienced fitter?
06-18-16, 01:38 PM
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Deapee- Yes, I agree it may be the saddle, and more importantly am wondering if I should bring it to a good shop and have 'em set it up for me. I did merely set the saddle height based on leg extension, and horizontal position for general reach 'comfort' and elbow angle. I don't really have a lot of extra scratch right now for parts(and still need clips and shoes!!), so admittedly trip to the LBS probably be worthwhile
Last edited by bikernew; 06-18-16 at 01:41 PM. Reason: forgot quote
06-18-16, 01:44 PM
#70
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Yes, I agree it may be the saddle, and more importantly am wondering if I should bring it to a good shop and have 'em set it up for me. I did merely set the saddle height based on leg extension, and horizontal position for general reach 'comfort' and elbow angle. I don't really have a lot of extra scratch right now for parts(and still need clips and shoes!!), so admittedly trip to the LBS probably be worthwhile
Borrow a trainer and a video camera with tripod.
Set it up level. Video yourself riding from left, right, and back.
Load the video on your computer, and take screenshots when your foot is at 3 o'clock and 6 o'clock.
Use an image program such as Photoshop or Gimp to measure critical angles of knees, hips, torso, and arms.
Compare to the angles here and adjust.
BikeDynamics - Bike Fitting Specialists - Fit Guidelines
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