Reliable replacement for Aksium that stranded me.
#1
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Reliable replacement for Aksium that stranded me.
So I had an Aksium today that a spoke pulled through the rim. It left me stranded in the middle of nowhere in rural Wisconsin. I managed to find someone to drive me 25 miles back for $40 cash I had. I tried messing with a spoke wrench tightening the other drive side spokes and loosening the NDS spokes. I got it to where I could roll it without the tire rubbing the chainstay but the minute I tried riding it it started rubbing and given it already took some clear coat off the carbon with just a few rotations It would have destroyed the whole frame and tire if I tried riding it.
So now I am looking at replacements but it freaks me out that one broken spoke could strand me. I have 32 spoke traditional wheels where a broken spoke just meant open the brake and make your way back. However, my carbon frame seems to also have very narrow clearances for the wheel/tire. I also should not have trusted the wheel since it had 12k miles on it but showed no signs it needed to be replaced. My friend has a Ksryrium hub crack at 4k miles but fortunately was close to home.
I guess my question is what should I replace it with so that I am not in that position again? That really had me shaken. I am considering buying a set of classic Open Pro Ultegras or building my own out of traditional spokes and hubs.
So now I am looking at replacements but it freaks me out that one broken spoke could strand me. I have 32 spoke traditional wheels where a broken spoke just meant open the brake and make your way back. However, my carbon frame seems to also have very narrow clearances for the wheel/tire. I also should not have trusted the wheel since it had 12k miles on it but showed no signs it needed to be replaced. My friend has a Ksryrium hub crack at 4k miles but fortunately was close to home.
I guess my question is what should I replace it with so that I am not in that position again? That really had me shaken. I am considering buying a set of classic Open Pro Ultegras or building my own out of traditional spokes and hubs.
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Riding light, low spoke wheels is worth a rare inconvenience. Besides it is hard to believe that the wheel could not be straightened sufficiently to be rideable given the availability of a spoke wrench. If you know a bit about building wheels I would spend some time practicing on the broken Aksium to learn how to get it reasonably true. That skill could come in handy again in future.
Last edited by rpenmanparker; 07-03-16 at 05:27 PM.
#3
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I'm a rookie in the cycling world (6 yrs) , but 12k out of a wheel doesnt sound half bad . FWIW, I run Shimano RS10's (13k), and they are bombproof, so far !
#4
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Riding light, low spoke wheels is worth a rare inconvenience. Besides it is hard to believe that the wheel could not be straightened sufficiently to be rideable given the availability of a spoke wrench. If you know a bit about building wheels I would spend some time practicing on the broken Aksium to learn how to get it reasonably true. That skill could come in handy again in future.
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So now I am looking at replacements but it freaks me out that one broken spoke could strand me. I have 32 spoke traditional wheels where a broken spoke just meant open the brake and make your way back. However, my carbon frame seems to also have very narrow clearances for the wheel/tire. I also should not have trusted the wheel since it had 12k miles on it but showed no signs it needed to be replaced. My friend has a Ksryrium hub crack at 4k miles but fortunately was close to home.
I guess my question is what should I replace it with so that I am not in that position again?
I guess my question is what should I replace it with so that I am not in that position again?
For the case of a broken spoke as opposed to your rim issue another solution is to carry a FiberFix spoke. It works to replace a broken spoke of any length and is flexible so you can install it on the DS without removing cassette/freewheel. Never actually had to use one on my own wheels but have helped other riders with it. Intended to be a temporary fix until the proper replacement spoke can be obtained and then the FiberFix Kevlar spoke can be reused. Mine is currently on loan to a friend who's on a short tour and has had some recent spoke issues.
#6
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I've built nearly a dozen traditional wheelsets. There was literally no way to make the wheel ridable with a spoke wrench and not destroy the entire frame. I tried tightening the neighboring DS spokes and loosening the NDS. It still would rub the chainstay whenever it was ridden.
I think I am going to get a set of 32 spoke Open Pro Ultegras.
I think I am going to get a set of 32 spoke Open Pro Ultegras.
#7
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Nothing wrong with either (I have a set of those wheels from about ten years ago) but you can find lighter but just as stiff rims and far lighter but just as reliable hubs. Build with butted spokes (and even aluminum nipples) and you can shave nearly a pound from that 'standard' wheelset.
#8
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Nothing wrong with either (I have a set of those wheels from about ten years ago) but you can find lighter but just as stiff rims and far lighter but just as reliable hubs. Build with butted spokes (and even aluminum nipples) and you can shave nearly a pound from that 'standard' wheelset.
#9
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Hubs: https://www.wheelbuilder.com/american-classic-road-hubs/
Rims: https://www.bikehubstore.com/Kinlin-XR19W-Clincher-Rim-p/xr19w.htm (or IRD Cadence if you want more drilling options)
My commuter bike wheels are built with basically the above (I used the MTB disc version on the AC front hub) and have been extremely reliable for 25k miles. I did crack the front hub on a pothole in the rain at night but continued to ride that wheel for another couple weeks before discovering the damaged flange.
I do not baby my stuff and frequently carried 20+ lbs. on my rear rack (had over 30 lbs. on it a few times). I used 32 spokes front and rear with all DT Revolution spokes except for Competition spokes on the drive side rear. Total weight of the wheels is around 1450 grams.
Rims: https://www.bikehubstore.com/Kinlin-XR19W-Clincher-Rim-p/xr19w.htm (or IRD Cadence if you want more drilling options)
My commuter bike wheels are built with basically the above (I used the MTB disc version on the AC front hub) and have been extremely reliable for 25k miles. I did crack the front hub on a pothole in the rain at night but continued to ride that wheel for another couple weeks before discovering the damaged flange.
I do not baby my stuff and frequently carried 20+ lbs. on my rear rack (had over 30 lbs. on it a few times). I used 32 spokes front and rear with all DT Revolution spokes except for Competition spokes on the drive side rear. Total weight of the wheels is around 1450 grams.
#10
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I've built nearly a dozen traditional wheelsets. There was literally no way to make the wheel ridable with a spoke wrench and not destroy the entire frame. I tried tightening the neighboring DS spokes and loosening the NDS. It still would rub the chainstay whenever it was ridden.
I think I am going to get a set of 32 spoke Open Pro Ultegras.
I think I am going to get a set of 32 spoke Open Pro Ultegras.
I'd much sooner build with Pacentis or HED Belgium or Belgium+, or H PLUS SON Archetype....lots of good durable rims out there. The Kinlins recommended up thread are pretty good too
Hubs....I wouldn't use Am Classic. DT makes nice hubs, or Bitex, or White Industries/King if you want something blingy.
Last edited by Marcus_Ti; 07-03-16 at 06:37 PM.
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I've built nearly a dozen traditional wheelsets. There was literally no way to make the wheel ridable with a spoke wrench and not destroy the entire frame. I tried tightening the neighboring DS spokes and loosening the NDS. It still would rub the chainstay whenever it was ridden.
I think I am going to get a set of 32 spoke Open Pro Ultegras.
I think I am going to get a set of 32 spoke Open Pro Ultegras.
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Bike Hub Store will have your order to you in just a few days. If you order Novatec hubs from BDOP, you will have them in two days. None of that 3 week stuff.
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Only a few days? If my R45/Belgiums ever break spokes in the morning I can go to the LBS and get new DTs and be riding again by lunch the same day. You seem to think waiting days for spare parts is some sort of high feature.
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And if you're on a multi-day organised ride you're hosed. Utterly.
Only a few days? If my R45/Belgiums ever break spokes in the morning I can go to the LBS and get new DTs and be riding again by lunch the same day. You seem to think waiting days for spare parts is some sort of high feature.
Only a few days? If my R45/Belgiums ever break spokes in the morning I can go to the LBS and get new DTs and be riding again by lunch the same day. You seem to think waiting days for spare parts is some sort of high feature.
#18
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Why not American Classic? When I built my wheels, I considered both DT and Chris King but neither could come close to the weight and cost of the ACs and offered nothing I could use to justify their higher cost and weight. I know little to nothing about Bitex so perhaps they are even more cost effective than ACs.
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Why not American Classic? When I built my wheels, I considered both DT and Chris King but neither could come close to the weight and cost of the ACs and offered nothing I could use to justify their higher cost and weight. I know little to nothing about Bitex so perhaps they are even more cost effective than ACs.
BHS hubs (made by Bitex) are light and cheap too Road Hubs and make for good strong wheels builds. Been reliable for a while. Kings and Whites are blingy, but for price/performance BHS/Bitex is the sweet spot.
I mean shoot a King R45 Belgium+ 28/28 build can be 1525-1550 grams IRL....which for just about anyone is light enough....and such a build isn't even trying to be lightweight.
Last edited by Marcus_Ti; 07-03-16 at 07:38 PM.
#21
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Anything but Open Pros, look at some DT tubeless ready rims, build the rear wheel with offset rim. I run Aksiums but my frame fits 32mm tyres with room to spare. I'll never own a frame that barely fits 25mm tyres.
#22
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how about these Kinlin sets on ebay
Free Shipping Kinlin XR200 Alloy Wheelset 22mm Clincher Alloy Wheelset | eBay
They cost less than the parts I would need to build them myself. Good rims from what I've read Novatec hubs are acceptable. People say the Aksium hubs suck yet I've had no issues there.
Free Shipping Kinlin XR200 Alloy Wheelset 22mm Clincher Alloy Wheelset | eBay
They cost less than the parts I would need to build them myself. Good rims from what I've read Novatec hubs are acceptable. People say the Aksium hubs suck yet I've had no issues there.
#23
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nevermind only 24 spokes on the rear.
#24
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Why not get one of Bdop's wheel kits and build yourself another set? They are a great value and you can go as high as 28f-32r on the spoke count if you like. They ship fast and have nice components.
DIY Alloy Road Wheel Kit III
At $320 dollars you even get CX Ray spokes. That's $150 retail value just in the spokes.
Those wheels would be in very nice upgrade from the Aksiums you have been riding.
DIY Alloy Road Wheel Kit III
At $320 dollars you even get CX Ray spokes. That's $150 retail value just in the spokes.
Those wheels would be in very nice upgrade from the Aksiums you have been riding.
Last edited by Clipped_in; 07-05-16 at 11:26 AM.
#25
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Am Classic hubs have had durability problems IMHO....also way back they had design problems (2004 or so to 2008 maybe?). For years they had "features" where the freehub would explode or low quality bearings and the not so odd hub shell failure. But they were *light*. Those days are mostly gone judging by the lack of mad raging forum posts about such things,
... or maybe people just don't buy their product much anymore after all the fusterclucks. But IMHO for the money there are better options.
BHS hubs (made by Bitex) are light and cheap too Road Hubs and make for good strong wheels builds. Been reliable for a while. Kings and Whites are blingy, but for price/performance BHS/Bitex is the sweet spot.
BHS hubs (made by Bitex) are light and cheap too Road Hubs and make for good strong wheels builds. Been reliable for a while. Kings and Whites are blingy, but for price/performance BHS/Bitex is the sweet spot.
It is fairly light but when you can build a set of wheels 200 grams lighter and for far less money, it doesn't make for a very attractive option, IMO. I considered both King and DT hubs when I built my wheels but looking at the weights and prices, the American Classic hub option (was Bitex even available in 2009?) simply made so much more sense to me. And I haven't regretted the decision.