A) Why would mileage and elevation alone be the determining factor when choosing between these two groups?

B) What do you do if you ride between 1,000 and 4,000 miles? Buy SRAM?

I didn't mean "mileage and elevation alone". I was just adding two of many factors (durability) to be considered. I've had 15k miles/500k ft elev on my Ultegra. Everything except chains/pads is still original.


The wears on drivetrain, brake calipers, shifters.... could be very different between flat vs hilly miles. If you ride and climb a lot, Ultegra might save you in the long run.

Fair enough, but are current 6800 parts really that much more durable than 5800 to offset the cost difference over a reasonable lifespan of a bike?

I'm honestly asking, I've got about 20k miles on a bike with 5700 and I've replaced the chain a couple of times and re-cabled the bike a couple of times as well, but those are relatively cheap swaps.

Doubtful that 6800 is that much more durable than 5800, and certainly not enough (if any in practice) to offset the price difference.

I would guess 5800 is more durable. Usually as you go up in tiers parts become less durable because of materials used to make them lighter

I have Super Record on one bike and Ultegra 6800 on two others, and I can't tell a difference and I ride primarily on the hoods. That's going to be an individual preference point, but to say you're faster on Campy hoods versus Shimano hoods just doesn't make sense to me.

I have rode a friend's bike with 105 5800 and there's no noticeable difference over my 6800. I just tested bikes with 6800s by circumstance and really liked it. I do prefer the Campy to the Ultegra, but that's not what the OP's question is.

OP - it's unlikely you'll notice a difference, so you should consider what the weight savings are for the difference in cost to you.

Fully agree. I also have a bike with 5800 and one with 6800.

SRAM Red ... for the win!

http://bicycledesign.net/wp-content/...d-concept3.jpg

I have SRAM Red on one bike. The front shifting has NEVER been up to par with Shimano. That includes 105, but particularly Ultegra and above.

I like my Red group, but Shimano kills it on front shifting performance.

That's exactly my situation. I figured I wouldn't know the difference except by looking at the labels, but if I cannot possibly ever buy another bike (I will probably be retired or working as a greeter in Wal-Mart, so a brand-new bike won't be a high priority in a decade) why not get the good stuff?

Unless I hit the lottery, I probably won't get another bike, but if I do, I probably will go with 105. Paying a couple hundred dollars in order to save a pound or two is a thrill this aging heart can only tolerate once in a lifetime.

I prefer Ultegra but if you can't afford it just get the 105 and when the chain and cassette wear out replace with Ultegra ones. It'll get you most of the way there.

The bike shop in Mineola off Jericho Tpk is top notch. They have a great selection of bikes in all sizes (Cannondale, Giant, others). I was there last weekend and test drove the 2016 Giant TCR. I was impressed with their inventory and the amount of business they were getting. Will definitely stop in again the next time I am visiting my sister on LI.

i'm on the south shore in Massapequa. as far as Cannondale dealers go, stay as far away from the actual Cannondale store in Carle Place as you can, they're not very good. if you're looking for a really good Cannondale dealer, i'd recommend Bike Junkie on Broadway in Bethpage, that's primarily what they sell and their mechanic Doug is the best mechanic that i know of on LI. they also became a Specialized dealer 2 years ago, so they're good for Specialized too. if you're looking for a Fuji or Felt or BMC see Mike at Merrick Bicycles on Merrick Avenue, they're great too. If you're looking for a Pinarello or Trek, Brickwell is the place to go. me personally, i stop in Brands if i need something and they have it in stock, but i would never buy a bike from Brands and i would never take my bike there for any type of mechanical work. it's basically like a bike supermarket. also, like someone else mentioned Mineola Bike on Jericho Turnpike in Mineola is good too, and their bike club is the biggest on LI...

Thanks all. I hit up brands yesterday and they didn't have what i was after. Staff was courteous but doesn't matter much if they don't have what I was looking for.

They did try to steer me to trek or specialized, but I'm just not as interested. I'll have to check out the other two shops you guys mentioned. Thanks again.

If this is for complete bikes, it's often not just the groupset that's different, but some upgraded parts all around for an overall lighter bike.

You'd still end up with a faster and lighter bike if you bought the 105 version and spent the money you saved on tires, fit and weight saving upgrades.

Shimano's pricing model is pretty effective, and the companies that use their stuff have the market figured out nicely.
Most serious bikes come with a minimum of 105, which is perfectly functional.
Folks that want to splash out a bit on the purchase get Ultegra and it is a bit nicer, lighter and shinier.
Dura ace and Di2 is for those who don't care about the price.

All of these groups are good quality, in fact even the lower level groups are quite serviceable.

Bottom line for new bike buyers:
If you are counting nickles, get 105 and spend your upgrade bucks on wheels.
If you have the cash and you want something nice, just get the one you like that doesn't bust your budget.

105 is just fine. I ride Ultegra...it's better.

I love my SRAM Red ... have you tried the new eTap wireless shifting? :thumb:

Cycling Weekly has a good comparison with a video from three weeks ago. They confirmed the difference, which isn't as large as previous versions, but added it's hard to justify the added price. It's an objective evaluation from people that have no fog in the fight.

I just bought a Cannondale Synapse with full 105 group set. For just a few hundred dollars more I could have gotten full Ultegra with the close out deal Cannondale has going on, but decided I liked the color of the 105 they had in the shop that was my size. I will never be a racer, the small differences between Ultegra and 105 are just not a big enough difference for me.

I'm philosophically opposed to electronic shifting. So many things in my life have to be plugged in and charged on a regular basis. I will never let my bike be one of those things.

I don't care how well it works. It may work better than mechanical, but it doesn't matter to me.

There. I'm officially a retro-grouch. So be it.

This really isn't fair.

The guy with Di2 might have sacrificed and saved to be able to afford it.

I took a second job just to be able to afford my first really nice set of wheels.

Really isn't right to judge people like that.


-Tim-

Agree...

Agree!!!

I have to concur. My 1993 Marinoni has original Campy Record 1st generation Ergopower. It still shifts as well as it did in 1993. My Cervelo R3 Team was upgraded from Ultegra to Chorus and the shifting is even better, and once the initial cable stretch was worked out, it just seems to hold its adjustment forever. Not so with the Ultegra which was always drifting out and required frequent fine tuning.

The '93 Record group is still all original except for brake pads and a Phil Wood titanium bottom bracket. It just keeps working. I have a Rocky Mountain mountain bike that I bought 2 years after the Marinoni and ride about as extensively (albeit mostly on dirt roads). The left shifter is work out and you have to press down on it as you shift to a bigger ring otherwise the pawl won't catch. Shimano Deore LX. My wife also has a steel '93 Marinoni, with Campy Athena Ergopower that still works flawlessly. She rides nearly as much as I do and unlike me it's her only road bike and she doesn't split mileage like I do between my CF and steel bikes.

My son is building me a new Marinoni CF Genius, and I'm hanging Campy Record on it. Yeah, Chorus would work just as well but since I can get the parts at cost, why not?