Jasper Storm

Definitely sell it.

This isn't the usual BF "looking for a reason for unnecessary upgrades", this is the most fundamental thing in cycling, period. The correct frame size.

The sooner you cut any losses and move on, the better.

Maelochs

So basically, you have decided to stick with a bike you know doesn't fit ... and therefore everyone should buy the wrong-sized bike?

On top of that you have no idea about the proportions or flexibility of the OP.

You ride in an uncomfortable position which could possibly cause long-term damage to your elbows (I have a bad elbow from continuous overstress, trying to ride too soon after a shoulder separation and putting too much weight on one arm.) You might be able to cope or compensate---but this thread is Not about you, it is about the OP.

You haven't bothered to ask him about his position, about what kind of pain he suffers, about his flexibility ... yet you tell him to ride a vastly oversized frame which he finds uncomfortable because you ride a slightly smaller frame which you find comfortable?

Sorry that is just lousy advice. You fit your frame, but he doesn't fit his, and because you do fit, he should just suffer?

This is rich. You fully recognize that the OP might be doing permanent damage to his body to stay on a bike which Obviously doesn't fit (if a bike causes pain and damage, I'd say that is a pretty good indicator of a bad fit.)

Of course, if the frame is so large that even with a minuscule 45-mm stem he is too stretched, then there really is no way you bend his elbows or take weight off his arms ... that's the whole freaking problem with a frame that is too big.

You are saying, "Keep the frame which causes these injuries but avoid these injuries." To me that doesn't make a lot of sense.

Then there is this:

Why pray tell, if a bike which is Several Sizes smaller is a "good goal," should he cling to a bike which you tacitly admit is Several Sizes Too Large and Causing Serious Injury? Where is there any logic in this?

I agree a smaller bike is the perfect goal----and he should seize that goal immediately. Why should he keep hurting himself riding a damaging oversized bike? How does that make any sense?

What a closing. By what logic "should" it be possible. is there no such thing as a frame too big? You rode what might have been a 60-cm frame and it was so big you had to work to bend your elbows. This guy's frame is even bigger. If it was a 65 would you still say it was fine? At what point does it become "too large"?

To me if riding the bike causes you pain, and you know it is too big ... it causes pain and it is too big. "Make it fit" is just irresponsible advice. Unless you live next door to the guy and know his exact proportions and flexibility and medical history, you are basically saying, "I rode a bike smaller than yours and it was borderline ... so you keep riding this bigger bike which is obviously on the other side of that line ,.. because I don't care enough about you and your potential suffering.

"Oh, and later on, after you have messed up your body ... get a frame which fits."

This post is insane.

I agree a 54 or a 58 is a good goal. The OP should score that goal before he does himself permanent injury on a frame which even he says is way too big and hurts to ride.

CliffordK

Once you're sitting on the bike, there are 3 points of contact.

Seat, Pedals, and Bars.

The sloping top tube of many modern bikes effectively allows a taller head tube with standover height being less of an issue.

Bars can have a couple of different sizes and widths, and cranks can have a couple of different lengths, but they can be changed to whatever the person desires.

To a large extent one can set up a small frame bike and a large frame bike with the rider at exactly the same position. Perhaps the most difficult thing to match with a large frame is a large amount of bar drop. And tall bars on a small bike depend on whether the steer tube has been cut, but can be adjusted with stem angle.

Looking at the dimensions of the new (2016) Allez, Specialized is achieving the longer top tube by making two changes. Less vertical of a seat tube for the larger bikes, and more vertical of the head tube. Messing with the angles changes a few things, but the effective TT length difference from a 58cm to 61cm frame is 2cm, and 4 cm for a 56 to 61. I.E. About the same as going from a 100mm to 80mm or 60mm stem.

The OP has already set the seat forward, compensating for the less vertical seat tube. One could further adjust the seat position with a zero setback seatpost if desired. However, see later notes that that may not be appropriate.

The OP has also compensated for the increased reach (and steeper angle of the head tube) with a very short stem. There really is no problem with using a short stem, and various flat bars and moustache bars can effectively have a short stem, or even placing the hands behind the steer tube.

Presumably some of that is putting the rider into a more upright seated position.

Note the OP writes "Getting in the drops was almost a nonstarter. "
Put him on a smaller bike, and I'm not convinced it would be easier to get to the drops.

On a smaller frame, the OP may need a very tall steer tube/stem to achieve the same rider position.

Here's an interesting related topic that also showed up today.
https://www.bikeforums.net/general-cy...bar-palsy.html

I.E a discussion about pinky numbness, the major issue of the first OP.

One of the suggestions in the second topic is more cushy tires (which also echoes notes on the WWW), and the only time I've noticed numbness was a long ride on my solid tire bike.

I also like flat top bars.

Other notes on the web indicate a seat position that is not too far forward (opposite from what the OP has done).
7 Ways to Prevent and Treat Cyclist's Palsy | ACTIVE

I.E. Push the seat back, rather than as far forward as it will go as it can reduce the weight one puts on one's hands.

I find the most comfortable way to achieve bent elbows is to hold the tops of the knobs on top of the brake levers. But adjusting the angle of the brake levers on the bars might also change one's elbow position when riding on the hoods.

You are right that rider flexibility, and perhaps age should be considered, as well as leg/torso differences.

Fiery

That works fine if all you are doing with with bike is sitting on it. If you also want to have the best experience when riding it on the road, you may want to spend some time thinking about where the wheels are in relation to your center of mass.

Shuffleman

Simplicity is usually the best answer. Your post is well thought out but it is long and complicated. This issue is simple, the bike is way too large. Trying to compensate for that will cost the OP more money and possibly lingering injuries. Selling the bike and get the right size and fit would make for a better riding experience and limit injuries.

rmfnla

2012 Breezer Venturi Frameset Blue/White | Bikewagon

Still available in L (54)...

cdnredraider

This point is only valid if he is in a position that is good to start with. His initial comments would indicate his current position is no good. He needs a new position and his current bike is always shortened about all it can be.

A proper sized bike (read smaller) was the difference for me on whether the drops were comfortable or not. On the bike that was too big, the extra distance to the drops was untenable.

From my experience, I was putting far too much weigh on my hands because I was leaning too far forward. When my belly is having to lean far over the front of the seat, there are very limited means of reducing weight on the hands. It's a pretty basic statics problem there. Also, leaning far forward resulted in pressure on the nads. I would compensate by pushing back with my arms. As a result, my hand and elbows would be very sore/numb. Knowing the joint pain I felt, I don't see any way in which subjecting my body to that long term would not have adverse effects.

WildcatWhiz

Hi everyone! OP here!

While you all have been arguing, I've been enjoying my brand new, 2016 Specialized E5 Allez in 56cm. I apologize that it has taken me entirely too long to get back to everyone. I took all of your replies to heart (and thank you for so many of them!), bit the bullet and bought a new bike. Been too busy enjoying it and trying to sell my other one to reply...

My LBS was running their twice annual sale. It's the base model with Claris components, but due to trickle-down it feels about as good as my 2011 Elite. And most importantly, it fits like a glove! Got it for $700 out the door, 0% interest for 12 months, which gives me flexibility to sell my 2011 when I get a good price. I was able to swap over some of the nicer stuff from my 2011 (e.g., Ultegra brakes, better tires, etc) and plan on selling the 2011 soon. Have two buyers lined up.

This forum is awesome. No other way to put it. Thank you all for the tremendous amount of help and advice.