Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Road Cycling
Reload this Page >

When to Move to big ring

Notices
Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

When to Move to big ring

Old 09-06-16, 09:49 AM
  #26  
corrado33
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Bozeman
Posts: 4,096

Bikes: 199? Landshark Roadshark, 198? Mondonico Diamond, 1987 Panasonic DX-5000, 1987 Bianchi Limited, Univega... Chrome..., 1989 Schwinn Woodlands, Motobecane USA Record, Raleigh Tokul 2

Mentioned: 24 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1125 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by hythamfekry View Post
Does it work for both levers of FD .. for me it works with short lever of FD only ..
so when i'm on small ring , there's no half-click for the long lever .. only a full click which will move chain to big ring
Yes, it should. What shifters do you have? If you're on the small ring in a very easy gear (hit the small lever a few times while pedaling) you SHOULD have a trim shift using the big lever. Push the lever half way (roughly) and the derailleur will move and stay put. It's possible that your derailleur isn't adjusted to use the trim shifts. The high limit may be screwed in too far to use the trim shift above the large ring (if your shifter has one.)

EDIT: I'm assuming you have a double... I think you said that in the OP.
corrado33 is offline  
Old 09-06-16, 09:59 AM
  #27  
hythamfekry
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 163
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 76 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by corrado33 View Post
Yes, it should. What shifters do you have? If you're on the small ring in a very easy gear (hit the small lever a few times while pedaling) you SHOULD have a trim shift using the big lever. Push the lever half way (roughly) and the derailleur will move and stay put. It's possible that your derailleur isn't adjusted to use the trim shifts. The high limit may be screwed in too far to use the trim shift above the large ring (if your shifter has one.)

EDIT: I'm assuming you have a double... I think you said that in the OP.
yes it's a double ..
Ultegra FD-6800 ..
hythamfekry is offline  
Old 09-06-16, 10:03 AM
  #28  
nycphotography
NYC
 
nycphotography's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 3,620
Mentioned: 18 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1082 Post(s)
Liked 7 Times in 6 Posts
I'm back on the big ring as soon as possible.

I find the increased chain tension on the big ring makes everything work better, from better crisper shifting, to less chain slap over bumps.

I only use the small ring for climbs, and at that, only for climbs long enough to settle in and spin. Anything shorter and I'll just attack / sprint over it in the big ring.
nycphotography is offline  
Old 09-06-16, 10:09 AM
  #29  
woodcraft
Senior Member
 
woodcraft's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Nor Cal
Posts: 4,340
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1083 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 69 Times in 40 Posts
When cresting a hill,

I'll shift quite far down the cassette before shifting to the big ring,

when most of the acceleration is done & there's less pressure on the pedals.


Also when going up a roller, sometimes shift way down the cassette where there is some chain rub,

to avoid losing momentum while taking off pressure to shift to the big ring.
woodcraft is offline  
Old 09-06-16, 10:30 AM
  #30  
Corbin
Senior Member
 
Corbin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: N. Valley, AZ
Posts: 124
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 48 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
On my 50/34 I've found no reason for the big ring until 19 mph. I spin 100-118 cadence so TIFWIW. My dad brags about staying in his big ring as if that means something.
Corbin is offline  
Old 09-06-16, 12:44 PM
  #31  
seau grateau
Senior Member
 
seau grateau's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: PHL
Posts: 9,721

Bikes: Litespeed, IRO

Mentioned: 19 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1225 Post(s)
Liked 148 Times in 84 Posts
Originally Posted by Inpd View Post
Even the most basic STI has good enough trimming to prevent chain rub.
Yeah, but at the same time I feel like it's also kind of "might as well shift" at that point.
seau grateau is offline  
Old 09-06-16, 12:50 PM
  #32  
Smithson1
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 66
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 16 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by dougphoto View Post
I live in Illinois what's a small ring? and what's a hill?
I live in Kenosha and do a lot of riding down in Illinois. I removed my front derailleur due to lack of use.
Smithson1 is offline  
Old 09-06-16, 12:51 PM
  #33  
andr0id
Senior Member
 
andr0id's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 2,522
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1421 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by hythamfekry View Post
Hi , i have a semi-compact 52-36 crank with a 11-28 cassette ..
from your experience at which cog do you prefer to move from small to big ring and why ..
Switch to the big ring when you dial in 400 watts and want to drope the hamer.
andr0id is offline  
Old 09-06-16, 03:16 PM
  #34  
SpeshulEd 
Senior Member
 
SpeshulEd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 8,089
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 686 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
With a compact crankset, I don't see much reason to move to the small ring other than when I'm climbing. I'm moving up to a standard crankset this fall, we'll see how that goes.
__________________
Hey guys, lets go play bikes! Strava

SpeshulEd is offline  
Old 09-06-16, 03:47 PM
  #35  
benetga
Senior Member
 
benetga's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Illinois
Posts: 96

Bikes: Trek 1.1- Commuter, Nashbar Carbon105 -Sunday ride, Specialized Rockhopper-SS Winter Bike

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 14 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by dougphoto View Post
I live in Illinois what's a small ring? and what's a hill?
So am I but around my area we have have hills. I stay on the small ring probably 70-80% of time.
benetga is offline  
Old 09-06-16, 04:03 PM
  #36  
hythamfekry
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 163
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 76 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
so generally speaking , if the terrain allows it "being on flat" , it's better to have big-ring/bigger-cog combination rather than small-ring/smaller-cog and then move down the cassette ..
hythamfekry is offline  
Old 09-06-16, 04:50 PM
  #37  
thin_concrete
Achtung!
 
thin_concrete's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Charlestown, MA
Posts: 1,073

Bikes: A couple

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 146 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Not to the extent of cross chaining, but in general, yes.
thin_concrete is offline  
Old 09-06-16, 05:21 PM
  #38  
12strings
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Madison, IN
Posts: 1,351

Bikes: 2015 Jamis Quest Comp

Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 269 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I stay in the middle ring most of the time no matter what. ;-)
12strings is offline  
Old 09-06-16, 05:31 PM
  #39  
big chainring 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Wilmette, IL
Posts: 6,553
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 434 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 45 Times in 32 Posts
I'm still riding 49/52 chainring combo. Why change a good thing. I have two big rings to choose from!
big chainring is offline  
Old 09-06-16, 05:45 PM
  #40  
Sidney Porter
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 510
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
52/42x11-32 8 speed. If I want to hit every gear it is just about every shift when I go to the big ring I shift up 2 in the back the next gear is small ring and drop to a one smaller cog in back. For the mist part that pattern repeats
Sidney Porter is offline  
Old 09-06-16, 07:23 PM
  #41  
Da Reef
Senior Member
 
Da Reef's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 349

Bikes: Tarmac, Allez Sprint, Nashbar beater

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 145 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by hythamfekry View Post
Hi , i have a semi-compact 52-36 crank with a 11-28 cassette ..
from your experience at which cog do you prefer to move from small to big ring and why ..
I try to keep it simple. On 11 speed I would do smallest 4 rear with largest front and largest 4 rear with smallest front. The three middle gears I don't worry much about which gear.

Last edited by Da Reef; 09-06-16 at 07:29 PM.
Da Reef is offline  
Old 09-06-16, 08:45 PM
  #42  
dougphoto
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 472
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 101 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Originally Posted by benetga View Post
So am I but around my area we have have hills. I stay on the small ring probably 70-80% of time.
Where are you near the Mississippi or down south? I'm near Chicago
dougphoto is offline  
Old 09-06-16, 08:46 PM
  #43  
dougphoto
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 472
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 101 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Originally Posted by Smithson1 View Post
I live in Kenosha and do a lot of riding down in Illinois. I removed my front derailleur due to lack of use.
I may do this on my TT frame (once I get one)
dougphoto is offline  
Old 09-06-16, 08:59 PM
  #44  
UnfilteredDregs
Senior Member
 
UnfilteredDregs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: NYC, duh Bronx.
Posts: 3,578

Bikes: Salsa Ti Warbird- 2014/ November RAIL52s

Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 67 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Besides the mechanical limitations (rub & crosschaining) picking the right ring has everything to do with speed, terrain, and the gearsteps suitable for the moment.

You want to avoid big gear step differences unless necessary.

It's funny watching people drop chains on rollers because they switched the front end unnecessarily... (unless you're right behind them!)...

and crosschaining is your friend. Do everything you can to see if you can set your bike up to do so smoothly and avoid rub via trim. Who cares if it's hard on the chain...that's why they're replaceable.

Don't shift the front unless you really have to.
UnfilteredDregs is offline  
Old 09-06-16, 09:16 PM
  #45  
gregf83 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 8,871
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 980 Post(s)
Liked 76 Times in 52 Posts
Originally Posted by Corbin View Post
On my 50/34 I've found no reason for the big ring until 19 mph. I spin 100-118 cadence so TIFWIW. My dad brags about staying in his big ring as if that means something.
He probably never goes below 20mph so no need for the little ring
gregf83 is offline  
Old 09-07-16, 04:51 AM
  #46  
hythamfekry
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 163
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 76 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Da Reef View Post
I try to keep it simple. On 11 speed I would do smallest 4 rear with largest front and largest 4 rear with smallest front. The three middle gears I don't worry much about which gear.
hythamfekry is offline  
Old 09-07-16, 04:58 AM
  #47  
hythamfekry
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 163
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 76 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by UnfilteredDregs View Post
Besides the mechanical limitations (rub & crosschaining) picking the right ring has everything to do with speed, terrain, and the gearsteps suitable for the moment.

You want to avoid big gear step differences unless necessary.

It's funny watching people drop chains on rollers because they switched the front end unnecessarily... (unless you're right behind them!)...

and crosschaining is your friend. Do everything you can to see if you can set your bike up to do so smoothly and avoid rub via trim. Who cares if it's hard on the chain...that's why they're replaceable.

Don't shift the front unless you really have to.
sry , what's rollers ?
After considering speed , terrain , of course ,, I sense that most people comments indicates they prefer to stick to big ring "unless climbing" and move down the cassette ..
hythamfekry is offline  
Old 09-07-16, 06:03 AM
  #48  
Bike Gremlin
Bike Gremlin
 
Bike Gremlin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Novi Sad
Posts: 4,081

Bikes: Custom made on Scott Speedster frame, Custom made on a 1996. steel MTB frame (all but frame changed at least once in the past 20 years).

Mentioned: 18 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 949 Post(s)
Liked 5 Times in 5 Posts
As soon as I can ride in the big chainring without:

dropping pedalling speed below 80 rpm
+ cross chaining more than 2/3 of the cassette width (i.e. on a 9 speed cassette, stay off the largest 3 sprockets)

Unless I'm about to stop at an intersection, or approaching a climb. Then I avoid shifting to the largest chainring, since downshift is coming very soon.

More teeth means less drivetrain stress and wear, unless cross chaining. That's why, for example, I'd rather use 52/18 than a 36/13 combo, although it's a very similar gear inch ratio. More teeth with less cross chaining also adds to drivetrain efficiency a bit, but that's hardly measurable in terms of both speed and time per distance traveled.
Bike Gremlin is offline  
Old 09-07-16, 07:13 AM
  #49  
Larry77
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Western PDX
Posts: 210

Bikes: Cannondale Synapse, Focus Izalco, Focus Mares CX, BMC GF02, Giant VT3 MTB (upgraded), Felt Brougham SS

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 56 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
After this thread had me thinking about how often I change rings in the front, I noticed my Di2 data from a typical ride last night. I shifted 4 times in the front and 204 in the back, apparently I don't shift off the large ring very much :-)
Larry77 is offline  
Old 09-07-16, 09:47 AM
  #50  
SpeshulEd 
Senior Member
 
SpeshulEd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 8,089
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 686 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
For me, staying in the big ring allows me to sprint when necessary. It's a lot easier to drop the rear than it is to shift to the big ring and little ring at the same time. If I'm approaching a hill, it's fairly obvious when I need to drop to the small ring up front.
__________________
Hey guys, lets go play bikes! Strava

SpeshulEd is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

Copyright © 2018 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.