those racing bikes have short wheelbases

I have about 2,000 miles on my Expert 64cm. I am bigger at 205lbs. I was getting a noise I thought was spokes. LBS tensioned the rear wheel and the noise was still there. Then we saw that the original rear disc was slightly rubbing, and so I went with a larger disc (160cm was approved by Spesh). That was the better RT99 disc which has better cooling. I believe my rear disc got slightly warped, and it did have a brownish tinge to it. I was getting some fade due to heat build up both front and rear. Adding the RT99 discs front and rear and new organic pads really did the trick. I like to descend fast and I have so much stopping power and modulation it is awesome. And most importantly, no clicking noise!

I understand that but isn't this too severe? It's just like 10 deg and the chances for me to hit the front wheel especially while climbing

I got tired of the Speedplay pedals and they were a pain to clip in. My very first pedals were Look Classics and I liked the positive engagement they provided. So when I had had enough of the Zeros, I went back to Look and chose the updated Keo 2 Carbons. I've been pleased with them ever since. And I got them half off from the interwebs. Screaming deal I couldn't refuse.

-Shin

Anyone ride their Roubaix's on gravel? We're going to the lake next weekend and there's about a half mile of gravel to and from the lake house. I want to take the spec but could take the MTB if the gravel would be problematic.

Yeah, they're people who used the Roubaix for gravel races (see page 8 I think), ultimately it depends on what kind of gravel and tire selection

Oh and can you guys tell me your frame size and shoe size and if you have any toe overlap/how severe it is?

½ mile of gravel will be no problem if you have tires you trust. I've done more gravel than that (and "gravel" is being nice — it was not nice tiny pebbles, but more giant sharp rocks, 1-3cm in size) easily even just using Conti GP4KS2s.

I run a size 44 shoe and a size 56 Roubaix and I have plenty of toe overlap, but I only notice this when I'm trying to turn around at 2mph and I've forgotten to move my foot out of the way. It's just like cornering — if you're going to be moving the bars that far to the side, make sure you move your feet out of the way.

That's a SHARP turn if you're moving at any kind of speed.

How big of a turn that it'll hit your toes? Mine is like 10-12 deg and it'll hit

Stock tires, 26mm...gravel is the larger gravel, think dimes, nickels and quarters.

61 Roubaix, size 13 shoes, no overlap (at least I'm pretty sure)

How big of a turn that it'll hit your toes? Mine is like 10-12 deg and it'll hit

Wow, how tall are you? And I guess USA 13?

And as for your tyres, if there's similar gravel around your neighbourhood, you can try your stock tyres there. I tried riding my Roubaix Pro 25/28 tyres and it'll drift on sand, other then that, good traction and plenty fast on downhill.

6'6 and yes size 13 US.

Looks like you're right, it appears that the Roubaix has very similar dimensions to an Allez and Tarmac

I read somewhere mentioning that if toe overlap is a huge concern, the rider should look at European makers as they tend to care about stuff like this. And interestingly enough I looked at BMC TeamMachine 02 (slightly more racier than their 03 Alu counterpart which even has a longer wheelbase and FC)

https://preview.ibb.co/jQ3Bxv/Screen...t_23_00_32.png
https://preview.ibb.co/jdz6VF/Screen...t_23_00_49.png
upload from web

On a size 56 Roubaix with a 993mm wheelbase at 12° steering angle, you're at a turning radius of 15.6 feet. (4.775 meters, if you're in to that sort of thing.)

That's a TIGHT turn to be making while at any kind of speed.

I've only touched my toes to the tire when starting off with the bars canted hard left. And I remember not to do that now, and it's all good. :)

In short, I would be surprised if it's a danger to your riding.

So just to clarify, a higher stack same reach = more upright position?

Looking at a Roubaix SL4 on closeout, Tiagra drivetrain and rim breaks, for a first road bike. Seems like a bike/frame that would be worth upgrading components in the future as mileage increases. 600 USD more for the Sport/105.

Thoughts?

Hmm, probably worth to take the plunge and go 105 straight away, is it a complete 105 or partial?

This past February I snagged up a 2015 Pro Race disc at 1/3 off. 10r frame, 6800 with Roval 40mm wheels, Swiss hubs. It's backup to my R3 and is my rain bike. Super comfy ride although not the lightest. I run GP400 4 season 25's. I am consistently 1-1.5 mph slower on a 40k than with the R3. Still an awesome bike! I am upgrading to 6870 or maybe 8070 this winter.

Here is my review of my 2017 Roubaix Comp. I am 53, 6'1" and weight 240. (too much weight lifting and beer) I used to race mountain bikes, but life got in the way during the past 15 years. Time for a change. Anyway, I had a 2002 Trek 5200 and felt every bump. It is a fast bike but it hurt after 20 miles. Plus my lower back and shoulders have seen better days (mountain bike wrecks).

First, I LOVE the bike. The blue color is great. I got the bike with a full Spec body fit.

The Good
** LBS cut a nice deal with a heavy discounted fit session. Initial session was 4 hours.
** The future shock is the real deal. It only is noticeable during out of the saddle climbing, but otherwise you quickly forget about it (until you get on a normal bike.)
** the lower seat clamp and cobbler gobbler seat post work fine. No noticeable movement.
** The 28mm tires are nice, but I am heavy. I have to keep them at >95 psi or I pinchflat
** The gearing is a huge upgrade for me. I went from 8 speed to 11 speed cogs. Normal to compact crankset.
** The high frequency bumps completely go away.
** Shoulders appreciate the softening of big hits.
** The 105 shifters are not bad unless you have med-small hands. The are bulky. Work flawlessly.
** I like the hoverbar handle bars. The drops are shorter than my previous bike and I can spend hours in them.
** The Future Shock, stem & Hover Bar design allows for significant front end adjustment
** VERY IMPORTANT The bike feels almost as quick steering as my old Trek. I did not like the pre-17 Roubaix due to lazy steering.

If the Trek 5200 is a race car and a normal endurance bike is a Cadillac, the 17 Spec Roubaix is a BMW M3. A nice balance.

The bad
** I believe the Spec Roubaix is victim of its own success as they try to meet huge demand
** quality construction - loose spokes from factory. The LBS has to all but rebuild the wheels
** New technology - LBS did not adjust my headset correctly causing a rattling of spacers. Easy fix once the mech learned the bike
** Stock saddle - terrible, I used my old saddle and pedals - no issue.
** Complete bike weighs about 650 grams more than the Trek.

Remaining concern: I am 80% sure this is the correct size. My pant inseam is 34 and measures 35-1/4 inch, but I have a weak lower back from a bike crash. The fitter has pushed my seat all the way forward and swapped in a short stem. Should I be on a bike with a shorter top tube? Should I have purchased a 56? Obviously the LBS wants this one to work since the bike is now "used". My fitter has a very good reputation in the area and I am a challenge.

So, now I am working to loose some weight. If I meet my goal I will swap out the house brand crank set for an Ultegra 6800...just because.

THANKS to all who wrote on this post previously and the Spec rep who let me have a test bike for an evening.

Nice review and you mentioned everything except the frame size you got, my guess is he gave you a 58? Also, shoe size and toe overlap, yes or no, and if yes, is it a minor overlap?

Size 58. Shoe size 11 US. Not sure what you mean by toe overlap. The plumb line is about 2 cm behind the pedal axle. The cleats were not touched and have been the same for over 10 years. I ride SPDs and cleat in middle of recommended area.

I'm your height and inseam and ride a 56 with a 100mm stem. Seat is about middle to a little aft. I am happy with the fit. But, this is my first road bike and I am coming from a hybrid and I have only been riding for a year so I am no expert.

I'm 6 ft with a 34" inseam on a 58 with a 100mm stem and short-reach bars. I prefer the fit over the 56s I had..plus the toe overlap was annoying, as infrequently as it occurred. I cool fit either size but I like taller head tubes anyway. Speaking of pedals, I used Speedplay Zeros for a year, tried Shimano Dura Ace, and am now happily on Speedplay Ultra Light Actions on all three bikes. I need the float and I love the dual-sided entry. They are also the easiest to clip in and clip out of.