That is not a puncture as commonly understood. Thin tread does not contribute to pinch flatting, only to punctures from road hazards. And that is the same front or back. Besides pinch flats just shouldn't be a factor for you. They are too easy to completely eliminate permanently.

But then I will always have a partially worn rear tire, so it will have a diminished lifespan compared to just putting a new tire on the rear. Moving a half worn front to the rear means 3k as a front, and at the absolute best, 1.5k on the rear, meaning it lasted 4.5k miles. Left alone as a front, it's good for 6k. That "new" front will move to the rear with only 1.5k on it, meaning it's only 1/4 worn, and should last... 2k? Maybe 2.2k?

It's a hassle. I average just over 1,000 a month, so rotation seems pointless anyway. Same reason I don't clean chains anymore. They'll be dead within 12 weeks of installation, no sense in fussing over them.

You aren't getting it. Rotation doesn't mean rotation like on a car. When the rear is completely used up you throw it away and "rotate" the front to the rear. Then you put on a new front. You never put the rear on the front. So there is no question when to do it. You do it when the rear is used up.

You need it more than anyone.

Why are you asking me? Why not ask Marcus Ti who said there was more chance of puncturing the rear. Isn't it for him to prove?

I've re-read his post multiple times and I can't find the part about spoke breakage. You added that and it's why I quoted you. I see far more front wheel spokes busted than rear wheels. So I figured you had data to back up your claim seeing it contradicts my shop's experiences.

Robert...

Robert...

Robert...

I replace both my tires at the point that they cosmetically displease me.

Oh, I misunderstood. I have probably broken 10 rear spokes over 32 years of riding. Never broken a front. In fact I had some Performance aero spokes on a pair of wheels that were breaking constantly on rhe rear. I had to replace them all with Wheelsmiths. But I left them on the front and rode that front wheel another ten years with nary a single break. I thought my experience was standard.

Be careful. My name may be like Beetlejuice, Beetlejuice, Beetlejuice.

I'll exercise reasonable caution.

Never had a front tire puncture... I hope that lasts.

I wouldn't rotate, but that's because I'm lazy, and am not blasting down any mountains usually.

I never rotate. Once I have a clean build, I leave it alone. I just replace the rear since I get twice as much mileage out of the front as the rear. Why take a chance on damaging the tire or tube by removal and reinstallation?

I used to replace the rear tire and leave the front as is. I changed my thinking after a long nervous descent in pouring rain. I always put the best tire on the front now. The front does most of your braking and that other thing called steering too. I seem to burn through tires at the same rate.

Wut?

Every time you break down a tire and remove the tube for rotation, you chance a pinch on the tube. Why take the chance when all you really need is a new rear tire? Just wear it down and replace it.

With good technique, you should never pinch a tube while changing a tire. The security of a new to nearly new front tire at all time is a significant advantage and is worth the trouble and small pinch risk.

Lol someone forgot their Brandt

More Flats on Rear Tires by Jobst Brandt

My own personal data is 31,000 miles; 22 rear flats due to puncture, 1 front flat due to puncture.

ETA: same mileage and I've broken 4 spokes in the rear and zero in the front.

Is your image that of a Conti Gatorskin? Looks just like mine so must be a Conti something. I don't bother rotating front to back. But maybe its more due to my laziness than anything else. The wear indicators are good. In general, I just replace them when the middle starts getting flat. It can be left on longer. However, I had multiple flats with screwed up tire casing the last time I did that. So not recommended.

I have. But chalk it up to me trying PVC pipe wrap tape last time. I'm out of the experimentation phase and am back to sanity with the $4 thick plastic rim strips.

Agreed, but I decided not to take the risk and just replace the rear. Personal choice and it's worked out pretty well for me.

There are time I do rotate tires, though. I switch to GP 4 Seasons for the winter months and rarely wear them out during that time. So when I put them back on the following fall I always put the better tire on the back. But the summer tires, the 4000s? I go through at least two on the rear every year.

I agree with this. Having a newer tire on the front gives peace of mind and safety. If you are changing a tire in the comfort of your home or shop you should be able to take your time to make sure you don't pinch the tube.

Sure, whatever works for you, but just keep in mind that is backwards to the recommendation. Unlike auto tires, thebobject is not even wear, but rather having your better tire on the front.

Yes, which I do most of the time. If I put two new tires on, the rear tire wears much faster, so it's the "weaker" tire most of the time. After I replace it, it is better than the front, but quickly "catches up" to the front tire. Anyway, I've never had a problem with this. And I've only flatted a front tire once in the last couple of decades, while I've flatted more rear tires than I can count. Never broken a spoke on a front wheel, either, so I'm guessing the load on the front tire is much less than the rear tire anyway. And, now that I think of it, I've never flatted a single GP 4 Season. Hmmmm....

Strange thing about some auto makers, though. My sister in law bought a Mercedes 300, and the tires are different sizes on the front and rear, so you can't rotate them. I've noticed that on a few sport sedans. Not so much with my Outback, though.