Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Road Cycling
Reload this Page >

First Conversion

Notices
Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

First Conversion

Old 09-26-16, 10:14 PM
  #1  
Begs
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 20
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
First Conversion

Hi Everyone!!! I have been on this site for a while, mainly as an observer, I dont know too much about how to fix bikes, or what advantages are to one things versus another, so I typically just search for what I need and do my own research. ANYWAY, lol, I have reach a point where I dont quite know where to go. Hoping everyone can help me out.

I own a road bike, and have always wanted to know more about it, like how it works, how to fix it etc. I have always been afraid to work on my bike because, i think, its pretty nice. (2011 Specialized Roubaix Comp). So i purchased a bike 2nd hand with things I did not like with the motivation to fix/change them, and learn about how bikes work. It was in great shape and am really excited about it.

So, short story long, here is where I am. I purchased this bike (https://www.bicyclebluebook.com/sear...spx?id=3038532) I want to change the flat bar to drop bars and add paddle shifters (aka bifters) whatever you want to call them. My question is in regards to shifters to buy. I know I need something that has the ability to utilize the 3 rings in the front. But does it matter which one?

Also, I dont really care for 3 rings. Is it possible to change to only 2? Do I have to buy a different crank set/derailuer and use my 9 rear cassettes?

One more thing. I know the bike isnt that valuable, and that something like this wont be the 'cheapest' thing to invest in give that the bike isnt that really that nice. lol. Thats not the point the point is doing the work my self and learning without messing up my bike. hahaha.

Would love any help! Thanks!
Begs is offline  
Old 09-26-16, 10:42 PM
  #2  
ShortLegCyclist
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 791

Bikes: Many bikes in three states and two countries, mainly riding Moots Vamoots, Lynskey R265 disc and a Spot Denver Zephyr nowadays

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 26 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Begs View Post
Hi Everyone!!! I have been on this site for a while, mainly as an observer, I dont know too much about how to fix bikes, or what advantages are to one things versus another, so I typically just search for what I need and do my own research. ANYWAY, lol, I have reach a point where I dont quite know where to go. Hoping everyone can help me out.

I own a road bike, and have always wanted to know more about it, like how it works, how to fix it etc. I have always been afraid to work on my bike because, i think, its pretty nice. (2011 Specialized Roubaix Comp). So i purchased a bike 2nd hand with things I did not like with the motivation to fix/change them, and learn about how bikes work. It was in great shape and am really excited about it.

So, short story long, here is where I am. I purchased this bike (https://www.bicyclebluebook.com/sear...spx?id=3038532) I want to change the flat bar to drop bars and add paddle shifters (aka bifters) whatever you want to call them. My question is in regards to shifters to buy. I know I need something that has the ability to utilize the 3 rings in the front. But does it matter which one?

Also, I dont really care for 3 rings. Is it possible to change to only 2? Do I have to buy a different crank set/derailuer and use my 9 rear cassettes?

One more thing. I know the bike isnt that valuable, and that something like this wont be the 'cheapest' thing to invest in give that the bike isnt that really that nice. lol. Thats not the point the point is doing the work my self and learning without messing up my bike. hahaha.

Would love any help! Thanks!
First off, according to that link, the bike has a 3 x 8 drivetrain. Do you want to keep the 8 speed cassette? If so, and you want to change to brifters, you have two options for new, Microshift (which is also sold by Performance Bike/Nashbar rebadged as their house brand (s)) or Shimano Claris.

I'd be careful going with used brifters (combined brake lever and shifters, what you called paddle shifters) because they are notoriously not very durable compared to flat bar/MTB shifters, bar end or downtube shifters. But that's an option too and then you could search for a nicer components set, as Claris is the very bottom end of Shimano's line and while the Microshift 8 system does work they are supposedly even less durable than Shimano.

To change a triple to a double that depends on the crankset. If the rings are bolted on, you can remove them and replace them with a double ring set and just leave the same crank arms and bottom bracket installed, though the chainlines probably won't be ideal. If the rings are not removable, which I've seen mainly on low end MTB cranksets like Alivio, then you'll have to change the whole crankset, and if you go to a double you will probably be better off changing the bottom bracket as well in that case, as the one you have will be wide enough for a triple and therefore too wide for a double.

You will need a new front derailleur as well, and need to determine the correct type, braze on, or clamp on and what clamp size.

You basically cannot build a bike from new parts cheaper than you could by a whole bike because you lack the volume purchasing power of the bike companies, but you CAN do it if you use used parts.

You mentioned a 9 rear cassette, and you can change to a 9 speed system and actually have a few more options when it comes to components.

Sora is Shimano's current 9 speed system and it is crisper and faster shifting than Claris. You can also find used 9 speed 105, Ultegra and Dura-Ace stuff used pretty easily and Microshift/Nashbar/Performance has 9 speed brifter sets new for about $100.

If you are willing to move up to 10 speed, then you have SRAM brifters available to you (I don't believe there are or ever were any 8 or 9 speed SRAM road brifters) as well as Shimano and Microshift.

Before you start, I'd suggest looking around your city for a bike co-op type place - if you have one, that's a great place to learn about working on bikes before committing your own bikes to the process. Another option is if your local bike club puts together youth bike workshops and needs community volunteers.
ShortLegCyclist is offline  
Old 09-26-16, 11:21 PM
  #3  
Begs
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 20
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Wow. Thats a great first response. At first glance it looks like I may of bitten off more than I can chew. hahaha. But I am stubborn.

I apologize the current rear cassette set has 8 rings, not 9. I am not opposed to keeping the 8, I just wasnt sure what would make the most sense.

So in the short term Lets focus on the transition from Flat Bar to Drop Bars leaving everything else as is. I will obviously need a set of drop bars, shifters (Paddle/Bifters whatver, lol) and new cables.

Good to know about the paddle shifters. Maybe I am thinking of something different. The SRAM APEX shifters I have on my Specialized have the brake and and shifters in the same mechanism. Is that the same thing?

My rear derailuer has Shimano Claris on it so it seems like i should look for those. I belong to a few groups on facebook, and I will search ebay but are there any sources I am missing to find used parts?

The stem is a 31.8 stem, so fitting and perfect alignment aside, any road bar should work right?

I live in Modesto, CA, we dont really have a CO-OP or anything but I have a great relationship at my local bike shop and have little doubt that if I needed help the would help me.

This is so great! Thanks so much for the help!
Begs is offline  
Old 09-26-16, 11:24 PM
  #4  
Maelochs
Senior Member
 
Maelochs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 12,734

Bikes: 2015 Workswell 066, 2014 Dawes Sheila, 1983 Cannondale 500, 1984 Raleigh Olympian, 2007 Cannondale Rize 4, 2017 Fuji Sportif 1 LE

Mentioned: 142 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6114 Post(s)
Liked 999 Times in 566 Posts
Good answer.

First off, that Scott looks hot. And according to the Internet, weighs in at around 21 lbs? Nice ride.

Second I entirely understand spending whatever it takes to get the bike you want, and that doing the work is as much a value as the finished product. I have wasted a lot of money doing this several times ... and I love all the bikes I ended up with.

If I were you I would consider changing the entire drivetrain, but to save money you could just buy Claris brifters and either a Claris front derailleur and double (and a slightly narrower bottom bracket) or even stick with the 3x8 to save even more cash.

I have had decent luck buying used parts on EBay ... but be prepared to get the occasional piece which doesn't work, or works for a very short time. Brifters are expensive (relatively) but they are also the biggest risk used.

A lot of UK merchants offer good deals on complete groupsets. Merlin, I think ProBikeKit, ChainReaction ... there is one other I am missing .... but ProBikeKit is selling the entire 105 set for $390, ChainReaction has Tiagra for $350. Merlin offers just the derailleurs and brifters for 105 for $200 and the whole Tiagra set for $340.

After having pieced together groupsets one bit at a time, from now on I plan to buy new and complete if I ever buy again. After it is all added up, a full used set doesn't save much over new ... and it is used and less reliable.

Personally I would look for deals on EBay and even craigslist if you are that patient .... I have seen people strip a little-used or wrecked bike and upgrade it and sell the parts really cheap.

Good luck and please post updates and reviews.
Maelochs is offline  
Old 09-27-16, 12:46 AM
  #5  
HTupolev
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Seattle
Posts: 3,843
Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1755 Post(s)
Liked 901 Times in 441 Posts
Originally Posted by Begs View Post
The stem is a 31.8 stem, so fitting and perfect alignment aside, any road bar should work right?
Tons of modern bars, yes. Make sure to check, though, because it's not completely universal.

(If you did wind up getting a 25.4 or 26.0 or something for whatever reason, shims do exist.)

Last edited by HTupolev; 09-27-16 at 01:09 AM.
HTupolev is offline  
Old 09-27-16, 02:48 AM
  #6  
sh00k
Senior Member
 
sh00k's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Vacaville, CA
Posts: 934

Bikes: 2011 Trek FX 7.3 | 2015 Trek FX 7.4 | Lotus Classique

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 163 Post(s)
Liked 11 Times in 8 Posts
https://www.bikeforums.net/hybrid-bic...drop-bars.html
sh00k is offline  
Old 09-27-16, 09:00 AM
  #7  
gsa103
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 4,401

Bikes: Bianchi Infinito (Celeste, of course)

Mentioned: 19 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 753 Post(s)
Liked 103 Times in 76 Posts
Honestly, sell the bike, buy a drop bar bike. There are two significant issues, fit and cost that make in not feasible to do most conversions.

Flat bar bikes have handle-bars that sweep back slightly, drop bar bikes reach forward. Flat bar bikes have significantly longer top tubes as a result. In general, the best candidate for a drop bar conversion is a flat bar bike that is 1-2 sizes too small, so that when you add drop bars you're in the proper position.

Before you buy anything start pricing how much the conversion will cost you. You need new bars, stem, shifters, cables, bar tape. None of the individual parts are expensive, but you're looking at ~$400, and that doesn't include a potential new crank.
gsa103 is offline  
Old 09-27-16, 12:33 PM
  #8  
rms13
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: SoCal
Posts: 6,517
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 276 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times in 1 Post
Originally Posted by gsa103 View Post
Honestly, sell the bike, buy a drop bar bike. There are two significant issues, fit and cost that make in not feasible to do most conversions.

Flat bar bikes have handle-bars that sweep back slightly, drop bar bikes reach forward. Flat bar bikes have significantly longer top tubes as a result. In general, the best candidate for a drop bar conversion is a flat bar bike that is 1-2 sizes too small, so that when you add drop bars you're in the proper position.

Before you buy anything start pricing how much the conversion will cost you. You need new bars, stem, shifters, cables, bar tape. None of the individual parts are expensive, but you're looking at ~$400, and that doesn't include a potential new crank.
I'm pretty sure that bike's frame and geo are exactly the same as the drop bar version so should be able t convert it pretty easily. The main question is money. Personally I would just get 3x8 Claris or Microshift brifters and drop bars and be done. Of course he could get an entire groupset from UK but depending the the group might have to get new wheels. It's a pandora's box!
rms13 is offline  
Old 09-27-16, 02:45 PM
  #9  
wphamilton
Senior Member
 
wphamilton's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Alpharetta, GA
Posts: 15,280

Bikes: Nashbar Road

Mentioned: 71 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2932 Post(s)
Liked 332 Times in 222 Posts
I recently bought Claris shifters for about $110 (and well pleased with those). I think Microshift were 20-30 more, which are basically the only choices in 8-speed. Cable set, handlebar and bar tape would have you covered. Switching to a double you might wind up buying the whole crankset, so personally I'd give it careful consideration because by that point you really aren't that far off of a similarly equipped new bike.
wphamilton is offline  
Old 09-27-16, 03:13 PM
  #10  
Z953
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: SoCal
Posts: 87

Bikes: '16 Specialized Tarmac Comp (5800), '10 Spec Roubaix Expert (5800), '04 Specialized Roubaix Pro (3500)

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Bicycle maintenance is not rocket science. I bought a '14 NOS Specialized Allez Sport back in May. I wasn't fond of the mixed "Sora" groupset so I pieced together a 105 (5800) groupset from eBay and installed it after watching a couple of Park Tools YouTube videos and using my experience from working on my BMX bike 30 years ago when I was in junior highschool. Six weeks after buying the Allez the only things original on that bike now are the frame and forks.


Since then, from the ground up, I've built up an '04 Specialized Roubaix Pro frame/fork set and then a '10 Specialized Expert frame/fork set. Seriously, it's not that difficult. I suggest getting a complete groupset though because it's a mo-fo piecing one together on eBay. I'd say get go with 5800 but I found this Sora on a quick eBay search: New Shimano Sora Road 3500 2x9 Speed Bike Complete Groupset Group Gruppos | eBay


Buying a complete groupset eliminates the hassle of making sure that parts are compatible. Converting the bar does look like it'll be easy because that stem looks like it takes a standard 31.8mm bar.
Z953 is offline  
Old 09-27-16, 03:14 PM
  #11  
mcours2006
Senior Member
 
mcours2006's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Toronto, CANADA
Posts: 6,061

Bikes: Giant Rapid, Bianchi Advantage, Specialized Roubaix, 1985 Gardin Quatro, Norco Threshold, Raleigh Serengheti MTB

Mentioned: 47 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1938 Post(s)
Liked 286 Times in 168 Posts
Originally Posted by gsa103 View Post
Honestly, sell the bike, buy a drop bar bike. There are two significant issues, fit and cost that make in not feasible to do most conversions.
OP explicitly stated he wanted to learn how it works.
mcours2006 is offline  
Old 09-27-16, 03:34 PM
  #12  
rms13
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: SoCal
Posts: 6,517
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 276 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times in 1 Post
Originally Posted by Z953 View Post

Since then, from the ground up, I've built up an '04 Specialized Roubaix Pro frame/fork set and then a '10 Specialized Expert frame/fork set. Seriously, it's not that difficult. I suggest getting a complete groupset though because it's a mo-fo piecing one together on eBay. I'd say get go with 5800 but I found this Sora on a quick eBay search: New Shimano Sora Road 3500 2x9 Speed Bike Complete Groupset Group Gruppos | eBay

Or get new Tiagra for less

Shimano Tiagra 4700 10 Speed Double Groupset - Road Groupsets - Ribble Cycles
rms13 is offline  
Old 09-27-16, 06:06 PM
  #13  
Maelochs
Senior Member
 
Maelochs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 12,734

Bikes: 2015 Workswell 066, 2014 Dawes Sheila, 1983 Cannondale 500, 1984 Raleigh Olympian, 2007 Cannondale Rize 4, 2017 Fuji Sportif 1 LE

Mentioned: 142 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6114 Post(s)
Liked 999 Times in 566 Posts
Merlin, Ribble, ChainReactions ... there is one other, i always forget one ... oh, ProBikeKit ... are UK retailers which generally offer the best prices on while groupsets. I think Tiagra was running $340 and 105 $390 last time I looked. And that is everything---brifters to bottom bracket, derailleurs, brakes, chain .... everything but frame and wheels, saddle and stem and bars.
Maelochs is offline  
Old 09-27-16, 07:34 PM
  #14  
Begs
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 20
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Holy Cow. You guys, this is so awesome! Thanks so much for the support on this little project. I had no idea I would get this kind of support!

So yeah, I love the bike, The design, the aesthetics, and the weight, isnt bad, all things considered.

I appreciate the idea to just buy a bike. I have a bike to ride, I want to learn how to fix them and, eventually, help other people fix bikes too.

I think, given that this is my first time around, I dont want to get too far in over my head. I am going to keep the 3x8 gearing and add drop bars and some paddle shifters. Although who ever posted the Groupset for like $280...that is super tempting given some shifters are going to set me back about $100-$120. I am going to check in on ebay and craigslist, there are some facebook groups too.

I very much appreciate everyone's ideas and feedback. I will keep everyone updated!!

I will post some pics of the bike when I get home so everyone can see it as it is now.

Here goes nothing!!!
Begs is offline  
Old 09-28-16, 05:41 AM
  #15  
mcours2006
Senior Member
 
mcours2006's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Toronto, CANADA
Posts: 6,061

Bikes: Giant Rapid, Bianchi Advantage, Specialized Roubaix, 1985 Gardin Quatro, Norco Threshold, Raleigh Serengheti MTB

Mentioned: 47 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1938 Post(s)
Liked 286 Times in 168 Posts
Originally Posted by Begs View Post
Here goes nothing!!!
Wait!!

Here's another thought. I am assuming you have 5700 on the Roubaix SL2 (or possibly Rival). You could take that off of it and put on something like 6800 mechanical (non-Di2). Then take the 5700 and put it on the Scott. This way you'll get a really nice 11-sp carbon bike, and a good, decent 10-sp aluminum. Simultaneous upgrade.

I did something like this, but instead of 6800 11-sp I bought 7900 10-sp. The 5700 on my Roubaix SL2 went to a Giant Rapid 2, which was originally a flatbar, but now works beautifully as a drop bar.

Just a thought.
mcours2006 is offline  
Old 09-28-16, 06:15 AM
  #16  
lstiffler
Member
 
lstiffler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Mechanicsburg PA
Posts: 32
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
A quick suggestion...


Go buy an old road bike on craigslist. Something from the 70's or 80's.


Spend like $50.


Then completely disassemble everything.


Put it all back together.


Then build the modern bike of your dreams.
lstiffler is offline  
Old 09-28-16, 07:39 AM
  #17  
Phil_gretz
Journeyman Bike Commuter
 
Phil_gretz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Alexandria, VA
Posts: 6,657

Bikes: '71 Jeunet 640, '79 Peugeot PXN10LE, '88 Fuji Saratoga, '13 Motobecane Fantom29 HT, '16 Motobecane Turino Pro Disc, '16 Motobecane Gran Premio Elite, '18 Velobuild VB-R-022

Mentioned: 21 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1306 Post(s)
Liked 1,182 Times in 639 Posts
A few more things on fit...

Originally Posted by Begs View Post
Would love any help! Thanks!

Fit. Assuming your road bike fits here. Take precise measurements from the existing drop bar road bike, all referenced to the center of the crank spindle. Use a plumb bob and a carpenter's level to make certain that all measurements are in x,y coordinates relative to the crank spindle at (0,0). Measure in centimeters, with accuracy of a few millimeters.


Now, see how those measurements transfer to the flat bar road bike that is your project. What size handlebar will you buy (remember that there are four measurements to note: clamp diameter, width, drop and reach; all in millimeters).


Okay, now what type of stem is needed to put that handlebar in the right x,y location in space? Four measurements here (steerer clamp, bar clamp, rise angle, and length, all in millimeters).


What about the seatpost? Is the saddle clamp in the same position between the two bikes? If not, you'll need to change the seatpost on the flat bar bike (two measurements: diameter, setback, again all in millimeters).


Now, you can proceed with gearing...

Last edited by Phil_gretz; 09-28-16 at 07:41 AM. Reason: units
Phil_gretz is online now  
Old 10-02-16, 10:52 AM
  #18  
Begs
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 20
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Hi Everyone! Sorry for the delay in an update. Work has been a bit crazy lately! There were some requests for pics of the bike, so they are here!! Whoo hoo!



Update on progress: I had to buy some new tires for my true road bike, so that set me back like $150, so i havent been able to buy all the pieces for this build. I did get some bars:


In the meantime, until pay day, I learned how to 'index' or 'correctly gear' both of my derailuers. They were both super clanky, and grindy, a few you tube videos, and beers later things are shifting pretty damn smoothly. Very little chain hitting the derailuer, which I think is a huge win. hahaha.

One question i did have. I noticed that on my non drive side crank/bottom bracket that there is a pretty large gap. This gap is not present on my other road bike so I wonder if something is wrong? I took a pic, but it looks like i am missing a piece that covers this, any insights would be great.
Begs is offline  
Old 10-02-16, 11:37 AM
  #19  
CliffordK
Senior Member
 
CliffordK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Eugene, Oregon, USA
Posts: 25,763
Mentioned: 205 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13943 Post(s)
Liked 2,150 Times in 1,605 Posts
I'd probably dump the 8s cassette, and move to 9s. It should be a simple swap, no need to change wheels.

The Sora rear derailleur should shift 9s just fine, and there is a lot more support for 9s shifters... and I think the support will continue longer into the future.

Oh, also a new chain for 9s.
CliffordK is online now  
Old 10-02-16, 11:56 AM
  #20  
mcours2006
Senior Member
 
mcours2006's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Toronto, CANADA
Posts: 6,061

Bikes: Giant Rapid, Bianchi Advantage, Specialized Roubaix, 1985 Gardin Quatro, Norco Threshold, Raleigh Serengheti MTB

Mentioned: 47 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1938 Post(s)
Liked 286 Times in 168 Posts
There is no cover for that part that I'm aware of. This is how my own bike looks like. Make sure the crank arm is seated all the way against the spindle.
mcours2006 is offline  
Old 10-02-16, 03:41 PM
  #21  
Begs
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 20
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Update: I went to put the bars on the stem today...they were the wrong size!!! hahahah not a 31.8mm fit. Got em for cheap off of a facebook group, but the guy lied to me saying they would fit a 31.8mm stem. SO ANNOYING!!! Kind of embarrassing too. hahaha.

So if anyone IS selling a set of bars, for cheap, that would fit. PM me!! lol
Begs is offline  
Old 10-23-16, 09:01 PM
  #22  
Begs
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 20
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Hi everyone!! OK well things have been a bit crazy hahaha. I picked up a pair of bars and a new stem. They are installed. I am now ready to buy the Bifters. I want to ask everyone...Will These
Work with the 3x8 system thats on this bike? I think they will but just want to make sure!

Thanks!
Begs is offline  
Old 10-30-16, 06:35 PM
  #23  
Begs
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 20
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Little Bumpski here...anyone know if the above set will work with this component set???
Begs is offline  
Old 10-31-16, 07:19 AM
  #24  
mcours2006
Senior Member
 
mcours2006's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Toronto, CANADA
Posts: 6,061

Bikes: Giant Rapid, Bianchi Advantage, Specialized Roubaix, 1985 Gardin Quatro, Norco Threshold, Raleigh Serengheti MTB

Mentioned: 47 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1938 Post(s)
Liked 286 Times in 168 Posts
yes.
mcours2006 is offline  
Old 10-31-16, 07:45 AM
  #25  
Maelochs
Senior Member
 
Maelochs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 12,734

Bikes: 2015 Workswell 066, 2014 Dawes Sheila, 1983 Cannondale 500, 1984 Raleigh Olympian, 2007 Cannondale Rize 4, 2017 Fuji Sportif 1 LE

Mentioned: 142 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6114 Post(s)
Liked 999 Times in 566 Posts
I use the Claris units on my touring bike with no problem whatsoever. I would imagine they'd work fine for you.
Maelochs is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright © 2021 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.