![]() |
Classic Steel frame
Hey all,
I've been thinking about picking up a nice classic steel frame, restore it (if needed), build it and ride it. I have a few that have come up and all look nice, but I don't know all that much about steel. They are in random order: Lemond Tourmalet De Bernardi Gilardi Super Record Eddy Merkx Corsa Extra Bianchi Campione D'Italia in classic Celeste of course They all seem nice. Thoughts and advice is appreciated. Thanks in advance. Brandon |
you dont need to know about steel per se... like one needs not be a chemist and understand rubber compounds to shop for tires. and presumably youre not shopping purely on the basis of tubing.
one thing to consider is how you are building up the bike - vintage or modern components? if the latter, think about the spacing of the rear dropouts. (although steel can easily take a bit of stretching). also, threaded or threadless steerer? determines whether you use classic quill stem or modern ones (arguably uglier) lastly, dont forget the gios gran torino with the coined fork crown... this baby is just as iconic as a celeste bianchi https://velofinds.files.wordpress.co.../gt-_57-25.jpg |
Funny; as I read the list I thought Gios too. Rode that same one for a few years and the ride quality was incredible.
|
3 Attachment(s)
a few more to your list
Colnago Master (any master) Olympic Gilco tubing Basso Loto SLX Concorde SL/SP The type of tubing is the first thing I would look for. |
Originally Posted by redfooj
(Post 19132639)
you dont need to know about steel per se... like one needs not be a chemist and understand rubber compounds to shop for tires. and presumably youre not shopping purely on the basis of tubing.
one thing to consider is how you are building up the bike - vintage or modern components? if the latter, think about the spacing of the rear dropouts. (although steel can easily take a bit of stretching). also, threaded or threadless steerer? determines whether you use classic quill stem or modern ones (arguably uglier) lastly, dont forget the gios gran torino with the coined fork crown... this baby is just as iconic as a celeste bianchi https://velofinds.files.wordpress.co.../gt-_57-25.jpg My Cuevas also has 126mm rear spacing and I just opened it up a bit to fit the rear wheel. Rides like a dream although the frame it a bit tall for me which is why I'm in the market for another. I also plan to perform a complete restoration on the Cuevas. My father gave me the frame and I am thinking of giving it back to him after the restoration is complete. He used to race on it back in the early 80's. |
Originally Posted by redfooj
(Post 19132639)
lastly, dont forget the gios gran torino with the coined fork crown... this baby is just as iconic as a celeste bianchi https://velofinds.files.wordpress.co.../gt-_57-25.jpg Are you kidding me?? Wow. Is there a thread for this bike? How in the world did you find all the matching Gios bits? |
Here is mine:
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8573/...e67aa1_z_d.jpg Are you looking to build it up with a modern or a vintage drivetrain? And don't worry too much about the tubing...the color is much more important! |
|
Originally Posted by rowebr
(Post 19133359)
Here is mine:
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8573/...e67aa1_z_d.jpg Are you looking to build it up with a modern or a vintage drivetrain? And don't worry too much about the tubing...the color is much more important! |
Lots of good discussion on this thread.
Also, regarding the question about the quill stem. There are some quill stems that take a 31.8 mm bar, for example. |
http://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage/361558-retro-roadies-old-frames-sti-s-ergos.html
|
Originally Posted by mercator
(Post 19133617)
Lots of good discussion on this thread.
Also, regarding the question about the quill stem. There are some quill stems that take a 31.8 mm bar, for example. |
|
Originally Posted by rms13
(Post 19134193)
And threaded to threadless adapters
31.8 quill stem is ugly I'd rather use an adapter |
|
|
Well, I've gone this route pretty much totally. Ditched the two C.F. road bikes for a bunch of quality steel frames.
As to the Tourmelet, I have one and it's a sweet ride. In fact all three of my Lemond bikes are sweet. The Tourmelet I have is a 2003 and was built back up with Dura Ace and Ultegra components as well as a handbuilt wheelset. Light, responsive, and comfortable to ride. http://www.pbase.com/jhuddle/image/163817826.jpg Patient shopping should find you some really good rides for next to nothing that may need nothing more than basic maintenance to be back on the road. This Bob Jackson needed nothing but the locknut on the headset tightened: http://www.pbase.com/jhuddle/image/163860873.jpg This was just tires, otherwise it was freshly greased and tuned up. http://www.pbase.com/jhuddle/image/164053432.jpg This was $50. Needed new tires, levers, and bar tape as well as a major cleaning. I've now posted a PR on my 24 mile route with this. http://www.pbase.com/jhuddle/image/164200998.jpg As an opposite I picked this one up cheap and looked to be in great condition. But dried up grease from sitting for years, bad seals, broken jockey wheels, etc took thier tool. As well as wheels that just would not stay true. They were great parts but probably originally not built well. I've probably got around $600 in the bike now even though it's not worth that value wise. And I still love it. http://www.pbase.com/jhuddle/image/163026418.jpg Then I found this frame NOS from the old distrubutor. Bought Campagnolo parts cheap from the U.K. and built up one heck of a classic steel ride. In fact, I'm getting ready to take this out for a century here in a bit. Under 20 lbs as you see it. http://www.pbase.com/jhuddle/image/164057828.jpg The latest is this one. Pure mint and totally stock (except saddle) for a song. Has sat in a basement for years. Took it out yesterday for a 22 mile test ride, on the original tires that surprisingly are still supple. Grease is all dried up so it will need a tear down, degrease, and relube. But for little money I'll have a like new bike with a classic Italian steel frame geometry and decent working Campagnolo parts. http://www.pbase.com/jhuddle/image/164333633.jpg And that's not even half of them. Take your time, decide what your really want and need, and then spend wisely. Heck this one is some yet undetermined mid 80s bike that's fairly beat up. I don't know how many owners it's been through. But it's got a hodgepodge of parts with probably $150 in components, brake pads, tires, etc put on by the previous owner over the past 6 months. I wouldn't hesitate to ride this one 100 miles itself. The kid really did good work on it. It may not be pretty but for next to nothing it works really well. It's even got a 10-speed cassette on the back that works flawlessly with the old DT friction shifters. http://www.pbase.com/jhuddle/image/164339726.jpg |
Originally Posted by jamesdak
(Post 19138748)
It's even got a 10-speed cassette on the back that works flawlessly with the old DT friction shifters.
|
Originally Posted by rmfnla
(Post 19139283)
Why wouldn't it..?
I wonder if it partially depends on shifter type. The old SunTour power ratchets feel amazing, for instance, but those barcons only do about 24 pawl clicks from bottom to top. Pure friction shifters feel heavier, but they might be more precise in these cases. But, I'd have to try it out. The most speeds in back on any friction setup in my stable is 7! ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ |
Originally Posted by rmfnla
(Post 19139283)
Why wouldn't it..?
French shifters on a Spanish frame shifting a Japanese RD through Taiwanese cables to move the chain on a Italian cassette and hub surrounded by a french rim and connected with Swiss spokes. How in the heck can that ever work?? :D:D:D:D Hmmm, maybe the U.N. can learn something from this bike, LOL! |
Does anyone here know MAZA? No, not MASI. I had a MAZA Prestige back in the late '80's. It was Columbus TSX tubing and the detailing and paint was the most beautiful I've ever seen. Unfortunately I didn't take pics and I can't find one via Google. I made the mistake of selling it to a LBS owner who gave it to his adult daughter. After several years she wanted to sell it so I went and checked it out. She had totally trashed it. Looked like it was kept outside. I'd buy another in a heartbeat but can't find one.
|
Thanks for all the beautiful examples above. They are very nice. I ended up finding an original Bertoni Corsa Mondiale frameset and I should have it next week. I was planning on stripping the paint and repainting it in it's original color ways, but have been told to keep it as it. Unfortunately the paint seems to be a bit beat up and I like to have nice shiny things. We'll see just how it looks when I get it.
Just can't decide between silver Potenza or Chorus for the build. |
Originally Posted by HTupolev
(Post 19139489)
Some people/setups have issues with fine-tuning lever position on friction shifters with lots of speeds. There's no theoretical limitation stopping friction shifters from working with 10-speed and 11-speed systems, but it's often reported that it's just too hard to use comfortably.
I wonder if it partially depends on shifter type. The old SunTour power ratchets feel amazing, for instance, but those barcons only do about 24 pawl clicks from bottom to top. Pure friction shifters feel heavier, but they might be more precise in these cases. But, I'd have to try it out. The most speeds in back on any friction setup in my stable is 7! ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ I've never herd that but I've also never heard of anyone using friction shifters with a 10-speed rear... |
Originally Posted by rmfnla
(Post 19141121)
I've never herd that but I've also never heard of anyone using friction shifters with a 10-speed rear...
|
Originally Posted by jamesdak
(Post 19141224)
Which is honestly what I was initially referring too. Most claim problems with friction shifters once you get past 9 speeds.
|
| All times are GMT -6. The time now is 11:56 AM. |
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.