spectastic

I might be in the market to replace my commuter with a disc brake bike this coming winter. I've ridden with disc brakes before, and like them much better than the rim brakes, especially in the wet. and where I live, there are a few hills, so the brake modulation helps me be safer, which is always good.

anyone have ridden disc brake road bikes extensively in the last couple of years? what are some potential underlying issues (like chain line alignment, rotor rub) that people might not know about, but probably should know before they buy?

spectastic

actually I'll wait. A decent disc brake bike would cost 3x as much as my current commuter, which is actually pretty damn good for its price. I feel like disc brake bikes are still kind of a niche market that haven't quite caught on yet.

Robert C

I have been using discs on my daily commuter for the past few years, a Novara Gotham. They are low end; yet they are good enough that I consider disc brakes a must have on future bikes.

10speedBill

I have a Redline Conquest Disk R that I've had for 10 years. It's my rain and touring bike. The Avid disk breaks are great. Except for the occasional rotor squeak they have been trouble free. I highly recommend disc brakes. There is no difference in chain alignment.

mcours2006

For wet riding conditions I'd definitely recommend disc brakes. Dry braking you won't notice the difference, but once your wheels get wet the difference between rim and disc brakes is like quite apparent.

I did notice that on my Norco Threshold due to the wider 135 rear dropout I do occasionally hit the chainstay with my heel. This might be a consideration for larger riders.

indyfabz

Scarbo

There are copious (and not terribly rancorous) comments on this very topic ongoing in the General Discussions area.

Chandne

They certainly brake much better in the sense that they remain unaffected in wet conditions and the modulation is fantastic. Mountain bikers have known this for over a decade. I have two (and two rim-brake bikes) the the discs just feel much better too. The di2 hydro brakes are excellent, the SRAM Rival hydro is not as good but both are better in feel than my U di2 rim brakes with either Dura Ace pads or Swiss Stop High Performance pads. Just takes a little adjustment going back and forth between the two since rim brakes have no modulation.

Scarbo

I'd take issue with this statement. On my road bike I run Campy Shamals coupled with their "blue" pads (Super Record brakes)--modulation is absolutely superb. In fact, I like the finesse much better than the SRAM Guide RS discs on my MTB, which can be quite grabby.

Seriously, though--why reinvent the wheel (no pun intended!):

https://www.bikeforums.net/general-cy...get-discs.html

Jeremy_S

MTB there's no question but everyone feels differently with road bikes. I prefer my rim brakes hands down on the road over disc. Try em both and figure it out for yourself because none of us know what's going to feel better to you.

Chandne

You're the first person I have heard say that any mechanical rim brake modulation is better. I'm not sure how a soft material being pulled by a cable can provide better modulation than a hydro disc setup. BTW, I think the Guides generally have better modulation that my XTRs and XTs on my MTBs (I'm primarily a mtn biker). My XTRs, XTs, and the hydro road versions I have are better than any high-end rim brake combo I have tried. Discs are inevitable. Still, I just picked up a BMC SLR01 rim-brake frame just so I can have one (in case I sell my Roubaix) high end rim-brake bike. If TdF ever moves to discs, it is over for rims brakes on high end bikes anyway. They will keep both for a while and once the 1-1.5 weight penalty gap is closed, it is done. The new Roubaix design is disc-only, so the writing is on the wall. I like choices though, so I hope rim brakes don't go the way they did in the MTB world (though there is truly no reason for rim brakes there).

Seattle Forrest

(1) You can cook your fluid on a long descent. Probably never happen on pavement but on dirt roads with sandy patches and washboard surfaces you need to brake a lot more to stay in control. If the fluid goes bad, you lose all your modulation until you bleed the system and replace the fluid.

(2) You can't get hoses in whatever color you want like you can with cable housing.

Scarbo

Oh, don't get me wrong--I think my SRAM Guides are great brakes and they work really well on my MTB. It is just that the Campy Shamal/blue pad combo is truly extraordinary--in fact, I've never had rim brakes anywhere near this good before.

I'm thinking of buying a new bike right now that will be a road/gravel bike. I'm also debating what kind of brakes to put on it. That is why the commentary in that other thread has been so interesting to me right now.

Chandne

I picked up a Specialized alloy CruX just for that. It came 1X but with some work, it is now 2X with a 46/36 front. It has SRAM Rival with the basic hydro discs. I switched the Axis 2.0 wheels to NOX+CX Rays+DT240s. I also just converted to tubeless and it is holding air very well (Bontrager 33mm tires)....CX0 or something like that. It is perfect for the winter here....road, mild trails (usually along my road routes) and gravel roads. I'm so excited about truly being able to use it this winter when most keep the road bikes at home.

EDIT: It has Rival hydro discs but I just switched the rotors to XT Ice tech rotors since the DT240s are center lock.

Scarbo

Wow. Sweet!

I'm actually looking for something a little more mundane. I've always been a minimalist roadie type, basically; but this doesn't make sense anymore for the type of riding I'm increasingly doing. So, I'm looking for probably a steel frame--something I can put a rack on. I think I'm inclining towards disc brakes as well. We'll see.

WhyFi

You want to look to the new/expanding market of gravel/adventure bikes - very often, CX frames don't have things like rack mounts. This is where I was when I happened across a deal that I couldn't pass up - my DB Haanjo Comp (105 shifters, fd/rd) fell in to my lap for under $600, but stuff like the Jamis Renegade line also fill the bill.

Chandne

Yes Scarbo, my CX bike is not equipped with fender eyelets etc. I use roadie stuff on it. I was not going to buy something like that but when I called a guy to talk about wheels, he mentioned that one of his racers bought a new Crux and then fell ill. It was not fully assembled either but be would give it to me at team price (MSRP was $2,100 or $2,300 and I got it for $1,300) plus shipping of $150. So I had called to buy some end caps for wheels, and ended up with a Crux. I could not say no.

Your idea is more sensible and practical. Post up when you get something. I wish I had fender eyelets but I'll rig something up this winter.

gsa103

Definitely discs, just for the tire clearances. Good dual pivot brakes don't work for much more than 25s.
You can usually fit 28s, but then you have to deflate the tire to remove the front wheel.

fietsbob

I have used my disc brake bike a few years, now , on it's second set of pads ..

But My Road Bike has Rim Brakes ..

The market place is wanting to sell them to You .. latest designs put a thru axle front wheel & fork on to
Partially cure the user QR error problem ..

the strong brakes but a tiny tire contact patch with the road is not working in your favor.





'/,

bruce19

My first and only disc brake bike is a Colnago CX World Cup. I bought it from Competitive Cyclist for approx. $1700. about a year ago. I love this bike and the discs are a big reason. The braking modulations is incredible.

Seattle Forrest

What, new rims every spring?

It's amazing how much you've been manipulated.

Chandne

Oh, I was not 100% comfortable since both mine are QR. So I made sure to get what I considered the strongest (and heaviest?) skewers...Dura Ace. I have not had any problems and I have descended some steep terrain at 40-50 and really tested the brakes just so I could get comfortable with them. Discs are not for everyone, just like not everyone is crazy about a carbon frame. I'm a bit of an early adopter. For example, while I do not use ghetto tubeless anything, I did back in 2003-2004. I recall using some random rims and Kenda Karmas and converting them successfully (after much manipulation and shaking). I was so floored by 25 PSI and the resulting grip and ride feel that I never rode tubes again except for one week. So with things like discs and tubeless, I'm in early since I can't do without them on the MTB. That's just me.

Scarbo

OP: I didn't mean to commandeer your thread. If you think that I have just let me know and I'll quit.

------

Thanks, guys, for all your suggestions on a new bike. As I said, I think I am deciding towards disc brakes. I specifically want a steel frame this time around. If you have any more suggestions--for both frames and specific brake sets, please let me know!

Just to let you know, I'm thinking of something along the lines of a Salsa Vaya? What do you think? Can I do better?

Chandne

Looks like a basic solid bike that can be set up for commuting or touring. If I had a commute to work, I'd consider one like it.

GeneO 

Hey. my commuter is now a disc brake bike and I am loving it. My wife's bike (sometimes commuter) is too.

I have only put 1500 mi on it this year. No issue with rub (on either) and the modulation is freaking fantastic! I have SRAM Force 1 Hydraulics with center lock and thru-axle, my wife has TRP Hybrid Hydro/mechanical with quick release. No problems with her's either.

For commuting, disc is a no-brainer if you ask me.