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Quick questions about chain replacement.
It's time to replace my KMC chain that came with my Fuji Gran Fondo. I have about 5000 miles on this chain and never had any issues until now. It started to skip a bit and I used a friends chain checker and voila it's time for a new one.
I have a few quick questions and seeking suggestions. I have two set of wheels with 10 speed 12-28 and 12-27 105 cassettes. The crank is a FSA Grossamer 50/34 and 105 5700 shifters and derailleurs. 1- I know that HMC, Shimano and Sram chains are cross compatible. IS there any advantage of one versus the others? My shop only had shimano in stock 105 or the old ultegra. They said they can order any chain I want. 2- AT some point I can see myself going to a 11 speed set up- Should I go with a 11 speed chain now( I've been reading that that would work) ? 3- I can See myself going with a 32 cog on the rear since I have another bike for the flats. I know I'll need a new long cage rear derailleur but can I leave the chain long until I get it? FInally what your opinions on 10 speed Shimano, Sram and KMC chains? |
Originally Posted by TheRef
(Post 19161559)
It's time to replace my KMC chain that came with my Fuji Gran Fondo. I have about 5000 miles on this chain and never had any issues until now. It started to skip a bit and I used a friends chain checker and voila it's time for a new one.
I have a few quick questions and seeking suggestions. I have two set of wheels with 10 speed 12-28 and 12-27 105 cassettes. The crank is a FSA Grossamer 50/34 and 105 5700 shifters and derailleurs. 1- I know that HMC, Shimano and Sram chains are cross compatible. IS there any advantage of one versus the others? My shop only had shimano in stock 105 or the old ultegra. They said they can order any chain I want. Not sure about any advantages. The only real considerations would be weight, cost, and expected part lifetime. I use SRAM PG1071 chains with my 5700 group, don't see any reason to change. 2- AT some point I can see myself going to a 11 speed set up- Should I go with a 11 speed chain now( I've been reading that that would work) ? No. Chains aren't that expensive, and the odds are you'd get some wear into your new chain before changing groups. You'd want a new chain with your new 11 speed cassette if/when you move to 11s. 3- I can See myself going with a 32 cog on the rear since I have another bike for the flats. I know I'll need a new long cage rear derailleur but can I leave the chain long until I get it? You could get away with it, but too much slack can cause problems if you run wacky gears like 34/12. Again, chains are cheap, so just buy a new one if you ever move to a 32t cassette. FInally what your opinions on 10 speed Shimano, Sram and KMC chains? No opinion. IIRC, KMC missing links are reusable while SRAM powerlocks are "not", but in practice I think they both perform the same. |
I like KMC the best, but there is nothing wrong with the LBS's stock. OTOH KMCs are readily available online or can be ordered at the LBS.
Don't try to go with an 11-speed chain. You don't need that aggravation if it isn't perfect. Besides you are riding your chain too long anyway and should be changing it out sooner. You might need a new cassette. After that amount of mileage and once the chain starts to skip, it is doubtful a new chain will work with that old cassette. Be prepared for that. I just upgraded a bike to 11-speed and, meh, it wasn't really worth it. I like it okay, but I can't say I am better off with it. If your levers break (my case) or the RD, then maybe consider it, but otherwise just keep on keepin' on. |
Some KMC missing links are reusable (10s) some are not (11s) although I have re-used a non-reusable as well. I also carry replacements on my tool box. I only use KMC chains because of the missing links.
http://jmxdigital.com/kmc_11_link.jpghttp://www.bikemag.com/wp-content/up...issingLink.jpg |
My chain currently has both a SRAM powerlock link AND a KMC missing link, because I cut it too short initially and had to add a couple links :)
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The only thing I will say is I don't like the Shimano replaceable pin setup. It's a PITA to take out, not that I need to do it often, but the SRAM and KMC are much easier to use in that regard.
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A chain gauge tool is also pretty inexpensive - or there are inexpensive ones. I just replace when worn (gage says too long). Note that many times the pair of cassette/chain wear together and a new chain on old cassette can cause skipping. Normally you get multiple chain changes per cassette.
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If you want a 32 cassette, do it now.
Then you can get the chain length right, and (assuming the new cassette would replace one of the existing ones) you'll avoid the possibility that the new chain would skip on both cassettes that you use now. - 11 speed- don't bother - Shimano replacement pins- don't bother |
Originally Posted by mcours2006
(Post 19161979)
The only thing I will say is I don't like the Shimano replaceable pin setup. It's a PITA to take out, not that I need to do it often, but the SRAM and KMC are much easier to use in that regard.
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Originally Posted by JohnDThompson
(Post 19162903)
There's nothing to stop you from using a KMC or SRAM master link in a Shimano chain.
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chain checkers generally suck.
use a steel ruler to measure wear. |
Originally Posted by TheRef
(Post 19161559)
It's time to replace my KMC chain that came with my Fuji Gran Fondo. I have about 5000 miles on this chain and never had any issues until now. It started to skip a bit and I used a friends chain checker and voila it's time for a new one.
I have a few quick questions and seeking suggestions. I have two set of wheels with 10 speed 12-28 and 12-27 105 cassettes. The crank is a FSA Grossamer 50/34 and 105 5700 shifters and derailleurs. 1- I know that HMC, Shimano and Sram chains are cross compatible. IS there any advantage of one versus the others? My shop only had shimano in stock 105 or the old ultegra. They said they can order any chain I want. I prefer SRAM but KMC would be my second choice. I would not choose Shimano because I rely on a power link to be able to easily take my chains off for cleaning (SRAM and KMC offer this feature). As far as which model chain to choose, the more expensive chains usually offer you two things: lighter weight and nickel plating for rust resistance. Check Amazon.com for chains---you can usually get a good deal there.
Originally Posted by TheRef
2- AT some point I can see myself going to a 11 speed set up- Should I go with a 11 speed chain now( I've been reading that that would work) ?
If you plan to upgrade to an 11-speed rear derailleur and cassette in the future, that would be the time to switch to an 11-speed chain. But you'll need to check to make sure that your 10-speed chainrings will be compatible---they may need to be changed, too.
Originally Posted by TheRef
3- I can See myself going with a 32 cog on the rear since I have another bike for the flats. I know I'll need a new long cage rear derailleur but can I leave the chain long until I get it?
---------------------- There's one thing that has been overlooked here and it's important. When a chain is replaced because it has stretched (as they all do eventually), you should always replace the cassette, too. Why? Because, as the chain stretches, it wears the teeth on the cogs differently. Putting a new chain on an old cassette with misshapen teeth will also cause problems. Kind regards, RoadLight |
I'm always surprised every time I see people hype how "easy" the KMC link is vs. Shimano. I struggled like hell to get the stupid link off a KMC chain a few weeks ago (came with my bike). Popping a pin in and out of a Shimano chain takes me literally seconds with the Park CT-3.2. I don't really understand why the chain needs to come off and on "easily" anyways. Mine only come off when it's time to replace.
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Originally Posted by howheels
(Post 19163008)
I'm always surprised every time I see people hype how "easy" the KMC link is vs. Shimano. I struggled like hell to get the stupid link off a KMC chain a few weeks ago (came with my bike). Popping a pin in and out of a Shimano chain takes me literally seconds with the Park CT-3.2. I don't really understand why the chain needs to come off and on "easily" anyways. Mine only come off when it's time to replace.
In buying KMC 10s chains, it is random which one comes in the box, and there is nothing printed on the box to give a clue. Just buy the Park MLP-1 tool, and any of them can be removed in a second. And BTW they can all be reused. |
Originally Posted by Shimagnolo
(Post 19163035)
KMC makes "reusable" links (like the SRAM 8s & 9s "PowerLink"), and they also make "non-reusable" links (like the SRAM 10s+ "PowerLock"). The "non-reusable" version just has a tiny shelf added to the side of the slot to make it latch.
In buying KMC 10s chains, it is random which one comes in the box, and there is nothing printed on the box to give a clue. Just buy the Park MLP-1 tool, and any of them can be removed in a second. And BTW they can all be reused. |
Originally Posted by howheels
(Post 19163008)
I'm always surprised every time I see people hype how "easy" the KMC link is vs. Shimano. I struggled like hell to get the stupid link off a KMC chain a few weeks ago (came with my bike). Popping a pin in and out of a Shimano chain takes me literally seconds with the Park CT-3.2. I don't really understand why the chain needs to come off and on "easily" anyways. Mine only come off when it's time to replace.
Some remove the chain for cleaning (which may or may not make it last longer). Others rotate multiple chains to spread the wear. The Shimano pin is one-time use whereas the links can be reused. |
Originally Posted by howheels
(Post 19163008)
I'm always surprised every time I see people hype how "easy" the KMC link is vs. Shimano. I struggled like hell to get the stupid link off a KMC chain a few weeks ago (came with my bike). Popping a pin in and out of a Shimano chain takes me literally seconds with the Park CT-3.2. I don't really understand why the chain needs to come off and on "easily" anyways. Mine only come off when it's time to replace.
Some other benefits of quick links are faster installation and faster road side repair say if your chain snaps. If its dark,cold and wet. a tiny Shimano chain pin could get lost more easily as you attempt to rejoin it. |
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