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Tubeless road bike users: Tell us your experience.

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Tubeless road bike users: Tell us your experience.

Old 01-26-17, 09:28 AM
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Barrettscv 
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Tubeless road bike users: Tell us your experience.

Have you made the switch to tubeless on your road bike? What tire are you using? Does the tubeless tire reduce rolling resistance, reduce flats, or both? Any unexpected issues or benefit?
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Old 01-26-17, 09:30 AM
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I have a cross bike that I use as a road bike. It has smooth tubeless tires. I like them. The bike overall is much lighter than my other bikes so I can't tell you how much an effect the tubeless tires have. I run mine at 125 psi.
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Old 01-26-17, 09:35 AM
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I'm running my new wheels tubeless. I've got them at 60/65 psi right now, I used to run my Cervelo at 110/120.
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Old 01-26-17, 09:49 AM
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I have ~10,000 miles on Maxxis ReFuse TR tires (all in 2016.) Rear tires last 3,000-3,500 each, I check and maintain the sealant every 1,500 miles or so. I have had zero punctures with the ReFuse. I run 60F/60R pressure. They roll pretty much forever

Note that they are 700x32, so they might not fit on a lot of road bikes, but they mount to ~31mm on a 19mm internal wheel (and a meaty 34.5mm wide on a 23mm internal wheel.) I've been wanting to try the new Clement Strada USH tubeless, but I've had such good luck with the Maxxis I keep buying them. If Clement would just make a Strada LGG tubeless, or Vittoria would make the tubeless Corsa wider than a 23, I'd be all over either.
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Old 01-26-17, 10:29 AM
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I just got a wheelset of ZTR Grail rims and mounting Schwalbe One in 700x30.
So far experiencing minor issues but not concerned I only started this.
It is for my touring/commuting bike.


Now if this ends up being successful, I might consider go tubeless on my racing bike. Now I do not want to buy new wheels ... and I am concerned if notubes.com's FAQ is saying the truth when they say:

Can I convert any road wheel to tubeless?
Any 700c road rim can be converted with our road tubeless bundle. Deep dish rims may require a valve extender.
If it is true, then I might go tubeless on my Cosmic, on my Ksyrium SLRs if all I need is the sealant which I already purchased a large bottle of, specific tyres and rim tape.
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Old 01-26-17, 12:28 PM
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My personal experience and opinion: For road bikes ridden exclusively on pavements, tubeless is not worth the hassle and trouble for majority of the riders. For gravel bikes, it's almost required, but the process is also much easier typically.
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Old 01-26-17, 03:50 PM
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I've been riding Schwalbe Pro 1 tubeless (switched from Vittoria Raubino Pro 3) since last fall (Florida riding season never ends), including one 50k road race. I wouldn't say it's life-changing, but I will definitely not go back. I can run the Pro 1s at significantly lower pressure (60f/80r) without any measurable increase in rolling resistance (based on accumulated power meter data) and get more comfort and better traction. The sealant has fixed one small puncture so far -- probably a small piece of glass -- that I didn't even know about until post-ride inspection.
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Old 01-26-17, 06:37 PM
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Originally Posted by DrIsotope View Post
I have ~10,000 miles on Maxxis ReFuse TR tires (all in 2016.) Rear tires last 3,000-3,500 each, I check and maintain the sealant every 1,500 miles or so. I have had zero punctures with the ReFuse. I run 60F/60R pressure. They roll pretty much forever

Note that they are 700x32, so they might not fit on a lot of road bikes, but they mount to ~31mm on a 19mm internal wheel (and a meaty 34.5mm wide on a 23mm internal wheel.) I've been wanting to try the new Clement Strada USH tubeless, but I've had such good luck with the Maxxis I keep buying them. If Clement would just make a Strada LGG tubeless, or Vittoria would make the tubeless Corsa wider than a 23, I'd be all over either.
I wish Maxxis would make a 28 or 25. I was riding ReFuse before I switched to tubeless and I loved them. We just get a lot of thorns around here and tubeless is the only thing that really stops them.
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Old 01-26-17, 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Barrettscv View Post
Have you made the switch to tubeless on your road bike? What tire are you using? Does the tubeless tire reduce rolling resistance, reduce flats, or both? Any unexpected issues or benefit?
I switched for the punture resistance, specifically against thorns. Being able to run lower pressure is a nice side benefit, but the roads are mainly nice around here and I was never heavy enough to worry about snake bites when I was using tubes.

I'm using Hutchinson Intensive tires right now, which are way better than the Fusion 5s I tried.

The setup isn't as difficult as people make it out to be. The first time takes a little while, but you learn what works and the following installs are pretty easy.
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Old 01-26-17, 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by DXchulo View Post
I wish Maxxis would make a 28 or 25. I was riding ReFuse before I switched to tubeless and I loved them. We just get a lot of thorns around here and tubeless is the only thing that really stops them.
I would buy 700x28 ReFuse TR in a heartbeat. I'd buy a whole box. I'm back on tubed at the moment, as my previous set of tubeless wheels died and I had to buy some interim tires until I could pick up a new set of tubeless wheels. Just got the wheels, and have a pair of Paselas with less than 200 miles on them... so may as well run 'em down before I put the tubeless back on.

I'm on the lookout for anything in the 700x28 size range (can be a little bigger or a little smaller) but the choices out there remain real slim.
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Old 01-26-17, 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Kopsis View Post
I've been riding Schwalbe Pro 1 tubeless (switched from Vittoria Raubino Pro 3) since last fall (Florida riding season never ends), including one 50k road race. I wouldn't say it's life-changing, but I will definitely not go back. I can run the Pro 1s at significantly lower pressure (60f/80r) without any measurable increase in rolling resistance (based on accumulated power meter data) and get more comfort and better traction. The sealant has fixed one small puncture so far -- probably a small piece of glass -- that I didn't even know about until post-ride inspection.
Wow, thats low pressure. I switched to pro 1s just recently (25mm but they measure out more like 28mm) and only have about 200 miles in them. I like the ride a lot but have only gone as low as 88 in rear and 80 in front. Your power data implies I could go lower.
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Old 01-26-17, 09:47 PM
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I have >13,000 km on Hutchinson Atoms (23mm) with no sealant. They are on Campy Eurus and Shamal 2-way. Two flats from punctures and one flat from user error when the valve stem came loose on the rim when pumping up and I did not notice. I have never had trouble mounting them or changing to a tube on the road. The Atom Galactic (243g actual weight) is lighter than any clincher tire and tube and can be ridden every day. Why would I use anything else?
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Old 01-27-17, 04:50 AM
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I'm running 700x25 IRC Roadlites on a set of Ultegra 6800 wheels. I recently replaced the rear tire at about 2500 miles and haven't had a flat with those tires. They measure 27mm+ on those wheels and I run them at 85f/95r.

I agree with @dalava above that for many they're not worth the hassle and expense. When the Roadlites wear out, I'll probably replace them with 700x23/25 tubed Specialized Roubaix Pros.
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Old 01-27-17, 06:39 AM
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I've been running tubeless on my road bike for about three years now so obviously I'm a believer. I started out with Fusion 3's, then the original One's, and finally the new Pro One's. I've found that being able to run a lower pressure smooths the ride out a lot compared to running tubed and 100psi+ so that alone makes tubeless a winner. Add to that in the three years I've been running tubeless I've never had to put a tube in to limp back home. Sure I've had a few punctures but the sealant has done its job with only one puncture that required a patch and only after inspecting the tires at home after a ride.

I'm not a believer in converting non-tubeless road wheels to tubeless, especially deep carbon wheels due to a personal experience with a brand new set of Assault's that never sealed up properly from day one and ended up getting returned. Not to say it can't be done because several people have done it successfully but after the hell I went through dealing with the issues that can arise from a conversion I'll never do it again. Basically, if a tubeless "carbon" wheel has visible spoke holes and needs tape to seal I'll pass because there's far superior designs out there.

I should also add that I'm 225lbs and usually ride inflated to 85/90psi f/r. My current setup is a set of 38mm Easton EC90SL "Certified Road Tubeless" carbon wheels (1,473g) and a set of Pro One's with 30ml of sealant in each tire. Total system weight is right at 2,000 grams which rivals any tubed setup out there and the ride is amazing.

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Old 01-27-17, 06:55 AM
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I'm into my fouth season on road tubeless, and have no plans to go back to tubes.

I have two, tubeless specific, American Classic wheelsets on which I use Schwalbe tires, either Pro, Pro One, or S One.

My assessment of the system performance has been very good, and despite some extra hassle, think the advantage for the aggressive riding is worth it. The ride quality is great, and tires fast, grippy, and confidence inspiring.

For those looking to get into tubeless, my advice is to do it right. Use tubeless specific rims and the manufacturers recommended tape (if needed) and tires. Follow their directions. Get the right tools for the job.

Because there are no industry standards on the equipment, starting with a onown good wheel/tire pairing will help abbreviate the learning curve.

Also, doo your homework and understand the different types of tubeless tires out there.

Lastly, if you're not looking for the ultimate combo of performance, flat protection, convenience and feel, don't bother with tubeless. There are other ways to achieve some of those things at once, but only tubeless can deliver on all of them.
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Old 01-27-17, 08:13 AM
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Experience 1: Hutchinson Atom on Ultegra WH-6800 wheels. The beads were INSANELY tight no matter how careful I was to keep the bead in the channel and how much soapy water I applied. Hand shredding, tire lever breaking, cursing, sweating... Insane. No tape required as these rims are solid. Set up with a floor pump. Sealant bubbled out of the sidewall continually. I couldn't get them to hold pressure after three days. I was also not looking forward to trying to shove a tube in them on the road if I flatted. I sent them back. I think the Ultegra rims are somewhat infamous for being very, very, very tight.

Experience 2: Clement MSO tubeless on WTC Frequency i19 with OEM tape. Much easier to set up, I did it with my hands. The beads popped immediately with a floor pump. No leakage after two days of riding. No sidewall weeping ever. AMAZING ride quality, love these tires. After six months of riding, I lose about one psi a day on these. I think it would be difficult to flat these (knock wood) as I've ridden them down to 25 PSI on rough gravel without issue.

I'm also set up my fat bike tubeless which is a whole different conversation.

The first road tubeless experience really turned me off to the idea. The second experience convinced me that road/cross tubeless has come a long way in a couple of years. I ordered some Schwalbe One Pros last week and I'll munt them up on the 6800s in the spring.

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Old 01-27-17, 09:03 AM
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I had ~10k miles on my road bike using Schwalbe Ultreme/One.
I was pretty happy until last year I experienced a few times of sudden pressure leak during riding (big fart). Worse, once the tire popped out the rim while I was inflating the tire, almost like an explosion, and spilled sealant all over my face. The rim (Dura Ace C24) was permanently damaged, couldn't be trued just by a truing stand (If you check Amazon review on Schwalbe One, you would see a surge of negative comments starting late 2015 to mid 2016). I had no problem with Schwalbe One until then. It could be just a bad batch.


I switched to clincher after that.

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Old 01-27-17, 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by chaadster View Post
I'm into my fouth season on road tubeless, and have no plans to go back to tubes.

+1. Stan's rims (forget which ones) and currently riding Specialized Roubaix tires. Love them. They have the height of a 25c tire but the width of a 23c tire. Super zippy, but they are pricey.


I don't understand the alleged hassle factor. I buy new tires. The shop mounts them for free and adds sealant and I am out the door.
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Old 01-27-17, 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by chaadster View Post
For those looking to get into tubeless, my advice is to do it right.
Originally Posted by indyfabz View Post
I don't understand the alleged hassle factor. I buy new tires. The shop mounts them for free and adds sealant and I am out the door.
I had the shop set mine up, too. I kept reading that setting up tubeless the first time would be a pain in the ass, and that my rims and tires were a tough combination on top of it. It took them about an hour. I was going to watch for next time, but had to stamp a fire out at work instead.

I'm using Pro Ones on Enve 4.5 ARs. Very fast despite running half the pressure I used to put into my skinny tire Cervelo. The grip through corners is amazing.
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Old 01-27-17, 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by indyfabz View Post
I don't understand the alleged hassle factor. I buy new tires. The shop mounts them for free and adds sealant and I am out the door.
Sure. It also makes sense to understand how to do it yourself. Also, shop price on a Schwalbe Pro One is almost triple Wiggle's price.
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Old 01-27-17, 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by DrIsotope View Post
I'm on the lookout for anything in the 700x28 size range (can be a little bigger or a little smaller) but the choices out there remain real slim.
FWIW, I have Schwalbe Pro Ones Tubless 700x25, but they measure 28mm wide as installed on my Grail ZTR wheels.
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Old 01-27-17, 01:22 PM
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Originally Posted by hsuehhwa View Post
I had ~10k miles on my road bike using Schwalbe Ultreme/One.
I was pretty happy until last year I experienced a few times of sudden pressure leak during riding (big fart). Worse, once the tire popped out the rim while I was inflating the tire, almost like an explosion, and spilled sealant all over my face. The rim (Dura Ace C24) was permanently damaged, couldn't be trued just by a truing stand (If you check Amazon review on Schwalbe One, you would see a surge of negative comments starting late 2015 to mid 2016). I had no problem with Schwalbe One until then. It could be just a bad batch.


I switched to clincher after that.

I'm curious if your Dura Ace C24's were C24CL's or C24TL's? You can tell the difference easily when the tire is off the rim, does it have blue tape or no tape and no spoke holes? If you have the CL's (std clincher) and not TL's (Tubeless), that would explain a lot as they are not designed for tubeless use and likely the reason your tire popped off the rim.
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Old 01-27-17, 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Hiro11 View Post
Sure. It also makes sense to understand how to do it yourself. Also, shop price on a Schwalbe Pro One is almost triple Wiggle's price.
The Pro One's prices have dropped recently, they can be had here in the US for $59.00ea which is almost half what the original One or Fusion cost a few years ago. Check out Art's Cyclery.
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Old 01-27-17, 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by dvdslw View Post
I'm curious if your Dura Ace C24's were C24CL's or C24TL's? You can tell the difference easily when the tire is off the rim, does it have blue tape or no tape and no spoke holes? If you have the CL's (std clincher) and not TL's (Tubeless), that would explain a lot as they are not designed for tubeless use and likely the reason your tire popped off the rim.


TL, ABSOLUTELY. As far as I could recall, the C24 TL has no tape and no spoke holes.
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Old 01-27-17, 01:59 PM
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I've only been an onlooker at tubeless in-ride disasters. No way for this kid. This thread demonstrates the obvious lack of industry standards in the tubeless market. For this reason, tubeless will be a passing fad. Road manufacturers will phase it out. Ride latex tubes and enjoy.
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