Tubeless Continental GP4000s II
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Tubeless Continental GP4000s II
I have searched the Continental and other sites but have not found if the GP4000s II is tubeless compatible. Does anyone know?
Thanks,
Don
Thanks,
Don
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I'm sure it would work fine up to about 30 psi. I rode on some Michelin Pro4 for a while just goofing around. But around 50 psi they'd blow off the rims. Recommended if you enjoy danger and have a solid medical insurance plan.
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If a tire is tubeless/ready/compatible, the manufacturer's marketing department isn't going to make you look too hard for the info - they'll be rather up-front about it.
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If you need a good tubeless tire, the SCHWALBE PRO ONE is a good choice.
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Non tubeless as tubeless
Why shouldn't a non tubeless be used as a tubeless? I have continental gp 4000 sii set up tubeless and have pumped up to 120 psi without any problems.
My wheels are Reynolds strikes which are tubeless.
Thanks for any replys
My wheels are Reynolds strikes which are tubeless.
Thanks for any replys
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We were just talking about how sensible people should behave. Feel free to do whatever you want.
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Theoretically the sealant could protect against air loss (if wheels are in motion, not static)...but I'd be concerned more about integrity of actual tire staying in place
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When you're installing a tubeless tire, the beads drop in to the channel in the middle of the rim bed. Upon inflating, the beads pop up on that rim bed shoulder and there's a very snug (and sometimes damn tight) interface - the tire will not (or at least should not) rotate/slide on the rim at this point, even when being ridden while deflated. Without this tight interface (as might happen with a non-tubeless tire), I'd be concerned about slippage and the tire 'burping' the air out. I think that some people fudge this by wrapping the rim bed with multiple layers of tape, but I'd use equipment in the manner it was designed rather than hack/bodge it.
#18
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I'm not sure that he's referencing the same thing, but tubeless tires have a different interface with... I don't know if there's a technical term, but I'd call it the shoulder of the rim bed.
When you're installing a tubeless tire, the beads drop in to the channel in the middle of the rim bed. Upon inflating, the beads pop up on that rim bed shoulder and there's a very snug (and sometimes damn tight) interface - the tire will not (or at least should not) rotate/slide on the rim at this point, even when being ridden while deflated. Without this tight interface (as might happen with a non-tubeless tire), I'd be concerned about slippage and the tire 'burping' the air out. I think that some people fudge this by wrapping the rim bed with multiple layers of tape, but I'd use equipment in the manner it was designed rather than hack/bodge it.
When you're installing a tubeless tire, the beads drop in to the channel in the middle of the rim bed. Upon inflating, the beads pop up on that rim bed shoulder and there's a very snug (and sometimes damn tight) interface - the tire will not (or at least should not) rotate/slide on the rim at this point, even when being ridden while deflated. Without this tight interface (as might happen with a non-tubeless tire), I'd be concerned about slippage and the tire 'burping' the air out. I think that some people fudge this by wrapping the rim bed with multiple layers of tape, but I'd use equipment in the manner it was designed rather than hack/bodge it.
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Well, the inflated tube would be pressing against both the rim bed and the tire carcass - that'd be an awful lot of friction to keep things in place.
#20
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Air pressure will do the same thing. The issue is that if there is even the slightest breach of the seal between the tire and rim you'll have rapid air loss as the bead of the tire completely loses contact with the rim. Tubeless tires, being locked into the rim, would be a lot more tolerant of a breach, and less likely to have a breach in the first place. And this also assumes that a standard non-tubeless tire's bead even has the proper design to seal against a rim, something it was never designed to do, as opposed to a tubeless tire.
#21
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If the tube were made out of canvas, sure. But it's rubber, thin rubber, and stretches. It wont due much to hold the tire in place. The only real force at play is air pressure pushing the tire against the inner wall of the rim.
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I'm not talking about just where the rim and tire overlap, I'm talking about where it's in relative close proximity to the overlap - I would think that that would add a little more friction than just pressurized air, wouldn't it?
Regardless of the physics, I still wouldn't run non-tubeless tires tubeless.
#23
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Tubeless tires have a square bead top and an extra rubber flap on the bead to help seal.
It won't fail under normal circumstances, only over bumps or hard cornering, when it can blow off the rim. Using a tubeless rim will help, but good luck...
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Ok I'll ask the question...if the whole point of tubeless is to run lower pressures for added comfort and lower rolling resistance...why would you pump it to 120psi?
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#25
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I'm not talking about just where the rim and tire overlap, I'm talking about where it's in relative close proximity to the overlap - I would think that that would add a little more friction than just pressurized air, wouldn't it?
Regardless of the physics, I still wouldn't run non-tubeless tires tubeless.
Regardless of the physics, I still wouldn't run non-tubeless tires tubeless.