Di2: I'm sold.
#26
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cap tire clearance? this hasn't been my experience.
for me di2 rear derailleur absolutely kills etap. for everything else, i prefer etap by a mile.
#27
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IIRC Di2 also has auto-trim which eTap doesn't have.
#28
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But like I said, it's 2017. I'm paying **** loads of money. My priorities are different I guess. I want wireless.
Etap with shimano level rear derailleur and auto trim would be friggin amazing.
Shimano with wireless would be friggin amazing. I'm very happy you can customize shifting cause etap is intuitive as hell. I keep misshifting on my brother's shimano ultegra bike now
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I 'borrowed' a 2014 Raleigh Revenio 4 with the Ultegra Di2 setup on it and it was amazing. Loved it. Rode 80+ miles on it having never rode it before and Was so impressed. However, not so impressed that I'm willing to junk a working drivetrain and spend that kinda $ though. lol
#31
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It is amazing that Shimano doesn’t do a better job getting accurate info out about their products. The EW-WU101 is BT capable and works just fine with the BT-DN110. I have one working with the e-tube app on my Android phone. What you do with it is pretty limited, software updates, shift speed. I haven't seen where you can trim the derailleurs like you can with the computer interface. There is a screen for synchronized shifting but I have Ultegra and v3 is not out yet. Check that, they released it today…time to go play!
This is good info. Thanks for the correction.
Yeah, I mixed up the W01 with 101.
-Tim-
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don't try this at home.
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The only things I've done with the e-tube software, via usb cable, are:
Setting the multi-shift.
Upgrading the firmware -- easy. The newest firmware doesn't have anything I need, so I'll leave it as-is.
Multi-shift 3 cogs
(My Ultegra Di2 was set to "shift all cogs" on a long press -- not useful at all.)
I used the etube software to set it to shift 3 cogs with a "long press"--that's holding the paddle for about 1/2 second or longer.
At the base of a hill:
Hold down both bottom paddles. That shifts small front ring, and 3 smaller cogs. Simple and fast. From there, I might need to shift one more rear cog.
Over the top of the hill:
Hold down both top paddles. That's big ring and 3 larger cogs.
I shift the front rings way more often than I would on a mechanical bike. It's fast and accurate every time. I'll even shift to the small ring for a tiny 30-40 foot hill that might be just a dozen pedal strokes.
Shift adjustments
As you know, adjusting the shifting is very easy. See page 64 of the dealer manual. (First, set the limit screws with a screwdriver, one time.)
Hold the front control box button for 5 seconds until the red light comes on.
Now the up or down paddle will "micro shift", up to 32 adjustment steps, moving the derailleur a tiny amount at each click. It remembers the adjustment, so just press the button again to go back to normal mode.
(If you have two wheels that align slightly differently, you can just remember how many clicks in one direction, and just do the same count in the other direction when you change back to the original wheel.)
Downloads
download the Di2 dealer's manual. It's easy to follow.
si.shimano.com/pdfs/dm/DM-UL0001-03-ENG.pdf
And the E-tube PC software is here:
e-tubeproject.shimano.com/about/
Setting the multi-shift.
Upgrading the firmware -- easy. The newest firmware doesn't have anything I need, so I'll leave it as-is.
Multi-shift 3 cogs
(My Ultegra Di2 was set to "shift all cogs" on a long press -- not useful at all.)
I used the etube software to set it to shift 3 cogs with a "long press"--that's holding the paddle for about 1/2 second or longer.
At the base of a hill:
Hold down both bottom paddles. That shifts small front ring, and 3 smaller cogs. Simple and fast. From there, I might need to shift one more rear cog.
Over the top of the hill:
Hold down both top paddles. That's big ring and 3 larger cogs.
I shift the front rings way more often than I would on a mechanical bike. It's fast and accurate every time. I'll even shift to the small ring for a tiny 30-40 foot hill that might be just a dozen pedal strokes.
Shift adjustments
As you know, adjusting the shifting is very easy. See page 64 of the dealer manual. (First, set the limit screws with a screwdriver, one time.)
Hold the front control box button for 5 seconds until the red light comes on.
Now the up or down paddle will "micro shift", up to 32 adjustment steps, moving the derailleur a tiny amount at each click. It remembers the adjustment, so just press the button again to go back to normal mode.
(If you have two wheels that align slightly differently, you can just remember how many clicks in one direction, and just do the same count in the other direction when you change back to the original wheel.)
Downloads
download the Di2 dealer's manual. It's easy to follow.
si.shimano.com/pdfs/dm/DM-UL0001-03-ENG.pdf
And the E-tube PC software is here:
e-tubeproject.shimano.com/about/
Last edited by rm -rf; 03-11-17 at 08:10 PM.
#33
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The Di2 maintains compatibility better that SRAM Red. It is more durable. I was a long time MAVIC Mectronic (1990s wireless) user and welcomed the cables even though wireless is convenient.
We had a SRAM Red bike. Then got another SRAM Red bike with year newer components. The brake lever parts were not interchangeable. They have broken, and I needed to swap parts.
I have a 2010 - 10 speed Di2 (Gen 1), and three 11 speed Di2 (Gen2) bikes. I have the sprinter buttons, TT shifters, hill climbing shifter and have put junction A from the bar stem to the seat post. I've wired a few bikes for friends. I'll be getting a few 9100 (Gen3) parts soon. The Gen2/Gen3 are all interchangeable. The ETubes let's me reprogram stuff.
We had a SRAM Red bike. Then got another SRAM Red bike with year newer components. The brake lever parts were not interchangeable. They have broken, and I needed to swap parts.
I have a 2010 - 10 speed Di2 (Gen 1), and three 11 speed Di2 (Gen2) bikes. I have the sprinter buttons, TT shifters, hill climbing shifter and have put junction A from the bar stem to the seat post. I've wired a few bikes for friends. I'll be getting a few 9100 (Gen3) parts soon. The Gen2/Gen3 are all interchangeable. The ETubes let's me reprogram stuff.
#34
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Lots of great info in this thread. Another winner.
I'm doing a new build and have yet to order the Di2 parts. This is what I think I need. Cable length is unknown yet.
Advice is warmly welcomed...
-Tim-
I'm doing a new build and have yet to order the Di2 parts. This is what I think I need. Cable length is unknown yet.
Advice is warmly welcomed...
- Shifters/Brakes: Shimano ST-R785RL Di2 Levers & BR-R805 Calipers
- Front Derailleur: Ultegra 6870 Di2
- Rear Derailleur: Ultegra 6870 Di2
- Junction A: SM-EW90B (5 Port)
- Junction B: SM-JC41 (internal)
- Front Wire Harness
- Down Tube Wire
- Front Derailleur Wire
- Rear Derailleur Wire
- Battery Wire
- Wireless Unit: EW-WU111
- Di2 Battery: BT DN110
- Remote Climbing Shifter: SW-R600
-Tim-
#35
wears long socks
With an adjuster at two separate stops, I have enough adjustment to go up or down a full cog in the rear. I don't see how I could possibly need more.
#36
Canadian eh?
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As a techy myself, I've been contemplating the upgrade to Di2. I have a 2015 Cannondale Synapse Carbon Ultegra. Not sure which kit to get, etc...
#37
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But I still love the Di2 setup...
#38
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The Junction A is required for charging, trim adjustment, programming. As for ports you can make the levers a J-Box too. The DA have 3 ports per lever. So the Junction B isn't always needed.
Also note the Y cable could eliminate Junction Box B EW-JC130
The handle bar end J box should also be out soon.
This made the front really clean. Any wire can go to any wire.
DA Junc A on MASI Seatsm.jpg
Last edited by Doge; 03-10-17 at 02:29 PM.
#39
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The handle bar end J box should also be out soon.
This made the front really clean. Any wire can go to any wire.
Attachment 555517
Putting the junction behind the seatpost is really slick. I was wondering how you did it. Thanks for the picture.
I'd love to see a full picture of that bike. Looks pretty rad.
-Tim-
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MASI2.0 M5 kitchen.jpg
MASI2.0 M5.jpg
Last edited by Doge; 03-11-17 at 10:15 AM.
#41
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I want the terra cotta floor.
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Is this a button mounted on a battery that itself is mounted inside your seat tube ?, and do you then need to remove the seat post as well as battery ?.
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But the newer seatpost battery setups use the front junction box that's normally mounted under the stem. It has a charging USB port on the side, a red/green status light, and a setup button on the bottom surface. (There appear to be aftermarket mounts to avoid the strap around the stem.)
And you can check the charge level by holding down a shift paddle for a couple of seconds, even while riding.
An example found on the web:
#44
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The battery/junction is located on the underside of the stem. The maintenance button is located on the bottom of that box. Press and hold until it turns red, and you're in maintenance mode. Then use the rear derailleur buttons to move the derailleur one way or the other.
#45
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Perhaps the older downtube external batteries had the button?
But the newer seatpost battery setups use the front junction box that's normally mounted under the stem. It has a charging USB port on the side, a red/green status light, and a setup button on the bottom surface. (There appear to be aftermarket mounts to avoid the strap around the stem.)
And you can check the charge level by holding down a shift paddle for a couple of seconds, even while riding.
An example found on the web:
[IM G]https://i.imgur.com/69aiNxj.jpg[/IMG]
[IM G]https://imgur.com/69aiNxj[/IMG]
But the newer seatpost battery setups use the front junction box that's normally mounted under the stem. It has a charging USB port on the side, a red/green status light, and a setup button on the bottom surface. (There appear to be aftermarket mounts to avoid the strap around the stem.)
And you can check the charge level by holding down a shift paddle for a couple of seconds, even while riding.
An example found on the web:
[IM G]https://i.imgur.com/69aiNxj.jpg[/IMG]
[IM G]https://imgur.com/69aiNxj[/IMG]
Fourier's Alloy Di2 Junction Box Mount - Fit Werx
#46
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I've had a Di2 6870 Tarmac for the last 18mo and don't think I'll ever go back to mechanical. Ease of trimming the derailleurs wouldn't be part of the reasoning though.
I took the first ride on my newly electrified Diverge today. I would have liked to route the front wires internally, but already had a spare Junction A and with all the extra cables I'd need (and real handlebars rather than risking drilling holes), decided I'd wait for complete internal routing (or wireless) on some future complete bike. I do wish there were better options for seat tube battery mounting ... I ended up wrapping it in foam as I've seen everyone else do and shove it in (I'm using a seatpost I couldn't mount the battery in).
I took the first ride on my newly electrified Diverge today. I would have liked to route the front wires internally, but already had a spare Junction A and with all the extra cables I'd need (and real handlebars rather than risking drilling holes), decided I'd wait for complete internal routing (or wireless) on some future complete bike. I do wish there were better options for seat tube battery mounting ... I ended up wrapping it in foam as I've seen everyone else do and shove it in (I'm using a seatpost I couldn't mount the battery in).
#48
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This is another, earlier setup.
Note the sprinter shifters. I just didn't like the strap on the stem and the stuff up front in the wind. Although the front view you cannot really see it.
AERO VengeSM.jpg
VengeFront.jpg
Note the sprinter shifters. I just didn't like the strap on the stem and the stuff up front in the wind. Although the front view you cannot really see it.
AERO VengeSM.jpg
VengeFront.jpg