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Your Most Recent Cycling-related Repair

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Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

Your Most Recent Cycling-related Repair

Old 02-09-21, 09:57 PM
  #101  
timtak
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The new 105s (R7000) do look nice, and may even brake a little better than the old 105s (BR5800), perhaps because the lever is longer (please see the image on this thread).
little brake adjustment lever/thumbwheel name? Replaceable?

Speaking of chains, 10 speed chains are cheaper than 11 speed chains and they appear to work on 11 speed mech and I can't tell the difference, but I am insensitive.

I ordered the wrong chair feet (soft silicone ones) for the heels of my shoes. If they wear out or off too quickly I will get some rubber chair feet instead.
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Old 02-25-21, 04:01 PM
  #102  
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The table feet that I ordered from China arrived. I was scared that they might be too soft but they are great. Softer than hard, and the original rubber, and likely to wear down in perhaps a couple of years but at 80 cents a pair the longevity does not matter and they are more comfortable.

Cycling Shoe Heels by Timothy Takemoto, on Flickr


Yes: Reheeled Shimano Cycling Shoe by Timothy Takemoto, on Flickr

I now have them on both heels. The technique for adding a shortened wing nut to the inside of the sole is explained here, earlier in this thread.

I got the heels for about 4USD for 10 including postage from aliexpress here
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001...54355a2comD9km
in the 3cm square with no screws variety.
but listings tend to disappear. Search for table feet.

Last edited by timtak; 02-25-21 at 04:08 PM.
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Old 05-03-21, 05:16 PM
  #103  
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I at last found a source of cycling shoe buckles on aliexpress.

Skate Buckles by Timothy Takemoto, on Flickr
They had more pull than the buckles that they replaced. Replacement cycling shoe buckles cost 20USD a pair. These were only about 3USD a pair including straps (the straps alone are even cheaper but did not work with Shimano buckles). The only problem is that since they are bigger it was necessary to remove the flange that guides the strap into the buckle so that these larger buckles can be used. I removed the flanges on my shoes with an angle grinder.

Alas one of the buckles broke on the third outing. The is a slight recession behind the hole where the buckle bolts to the shoe, which deformed the buckle a little which resulted in one of the ratchet springs coming loose. I think I can still just about use the buckle after cutting a bit of its plastic off (so that the dislodged spring does not get in the way, and the other spring can still tension). In future I will not tension the bolt as much and I could use a washer to fill the recession behind the buckle but, it also shows, in addition to their being too big, that the buckles are not entirely suitable for uses other than that which they were designed -- roller skate buckles. Still, one can get old shoes like this for about the price that Shimano is charging for the buckles, so using these with a washer or some other method of filling behind-buckle-holes (epoxy?) may still be a good idea.

Perhaps the other style would be better. I got them from aliexpress
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005...38274c4dwtm1nk
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Old 05-04-21, 09:58 AM
  #104  
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I tightened the 2 m5 bolts that hold the water bottle cage to my seat tube. It was touch and go for a moment, but I can proudly claim the repair was successful.
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Old 05-04-21, 11:14 AM
  #105  
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Ground/filed down an Easton freehub from DA only to fit normal Shimano/SRAM.



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Old 07-01-21, 11:42 PM
  #106  
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Replaced the BB30 bearings on my 2014 Cannondale Synapse 105. If they needed it or not. They had to have about 13k miles on them. I'm sure they had many thousands more life left, but seems like it couldn't hurt to try some new ones. I had a creaky noise I was looking to get rid of. That wasn't it. It was the damn seat post again. Put some Park SA2 on it and it seems to have gone away.




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Old 07-03-21, 05:37 PM
  #107  
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Originally Posted by timtak View Post
Speaking of chains, 10 speed chains are cheaper than 11 speed chains and they appear to work on 11 speed mech and I can't tell the difference, but I am insensitive.
The reason 11s chains are more expensive is that they became too narrow for the normal bushing arrangement, where they're just punched from the side plate, which makes a radius that subtracts from the available bearing area. 11s chains have separate bushes pressed into the plates, providing more bearing area than a 10s chain, maybe more even than 9s.

Because the internal width is the same as 10s, 11s chains are a good upgrade for 10s bikes, offering extended chain life and less chain rub. Worth the extra $.
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Old 07-03-21, 06:43 PM
  #108  
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My new Roubaix Expert had a defective 11-34 Ultegra Cassette. My LBS ended up swapping it out for me. One of the ramps wasn't machined properly, causing the chain to skip on it.
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Old 07-03-21, 09:01 PM
  #109  
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Originally Posted by Kimmo View Post
The reason 11s chains are more expensive is that they became too narrow for the normal bushing arrangement, where they're just punched from the side plate, which makes a radius that subtracts from the available bearing area. 11s chains have separate bushes pressed into the plates, providing more bearing area than a 10s chain, maybe more even than 9s.

Because the internal width is the same as 10s, 11s chains are a good upgrade for 10s bikes, offering extended chain life and less chain rub. Worth the extra $.

I've had so-so results. Front shifting is compromised, but a few grams are saved!
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Old 07-04-21, 07:39 AM
  #110  
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Originally Posted by Kimmo View Post
Because the internal width is the same as 10s, 11s chains are a good upgrade for 10s bikes, offering extended chain life and less chain rub. Worth the extra $.
The cheapest chains made by FCS and other non famous Taiwanese brands, are about twice the price in 11 compared to 10 speed. I have never used an 11 speed chain on my 11 speed cassette (when I purchased it I did not realise it was 11 speed!). I don't notice the chain rub. Are the 11 speed chains going to last twice as long?
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Old 07-04-21, 01:25 PM
  #111  
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Originally Posted by timtak View Post
The cheapest chains made by FCS and other non famous Taiwanese brands, are about twice the price in 11 compared to 10 speed. I have never used an 11 speed chain on my 11 speed cassette (when I purchased it I did not realise it was 11 speed!). I don't notice the chain rub. Are the 11 speed chains going to last twice as long?
11 speed chains do last a wee bit longer, but not twice as long. The other variable is whether using a 10s chain on 11s cassette/chainrings(?) is causing premature wear of those parts.

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Old 07-04-21, 03:58 PM
  #112  
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Given that chain wear is what mostly causes cog and ring wear, I'm happy to pay for anything that reduces it. Even a bit of weight on some extra links to go around oversized pulleys, which aren't just good for for saving a couple of watts - the amount you extend your chain is the amount you extend its life by.
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Old 07-07-21, 12:26 AM
  #113  
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Did some tube repair today.

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Old 07-07-21, 09:21 AM
  #114  
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Went through 2 tubes until I took the tire off completely and realized that the cheap imitation Velox rim tape on my old Vuelta wheels had shifted just enough to show part of a spoke hole.
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Old 07-07-21, 08:28 PM
  #115  
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had to pull the bottom bracket as I saw a boat of grease on the drive side. The drive side bearing look like it crapped itself, popped the cover, cleaned it up and added new grease to get a smooth bearing again.
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Old 07-09-21, 05:17 AM
  #116  
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Originally Posted by Kimmo View Post
Given that chain wear is what mostly causes cog and ring wear, I'm happy to pay for anything that reduces it.
Originally Posted by Sy Reene View Post
11 speed chains do last a wee bit longer, but not twice as long. The other variable is whether using a 10s chain on 11s cassette/chainrings(?) is causing premature wear of those parts.
Hmm...Since buying my LOOK which I thought was 10 speed, but is in fact 11s, I have used a 10 speed chain a year and after three years of 20,000 km a year I have changed my cassette and chain-rings too (they were not new three years ago).

But I see that there are lots of cheap 11s chains available from China, so I will try them.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005...7c832e0e8BQc7T
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3298...d5e1b875c758-6
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Old 07-09-21, 07:21 AM
  #117  
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New FSA Omega chainset and bearings for my 2012 Cannondale CAADX (BB30) all delivered to me in the UK from Crimson Stallion Cycles in the USA. Changed the snap rings to 'eyeless' versions by Smalley. Decided to just use grease and not Loctite so fingers are crossed. A groupset swap over is my next job with new Tektro RX-1 mini V-Brakes and Tiagra 4600 shifters and mechs - hope they play nice together.
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Old 07-09-21, 05:33 PM
  #118  
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Ordered a new single speed freewheel for the old Schwinn road bike. The last couple of rides I had been starting to notice occasional clicks when pedaling, and there was a lot more of it on today’s ride. Just replacing it with another low end unit from Long Yih, similar to the current one.

Otto
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Old 07-09-21, 05:36 PM
  #119  
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R&R my crank to grease the Ceramic Speed bearings. Piece of Cake.
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Old 07-09-21, 07:50 PM
  #120  
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Removed a nail and successfully plugged a Conti 5000 Tl and have put 150 miles on it. Holds pressure just like the new one at all times. Amazed that a tire plug works so well.
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Old 09-05-21, 08:54 PM
  #121  
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I put roller skate buckles on another pair of Shimano cycling shoes and replaced my left side crank arm.

The previous crank arm kept coming undone. I read on a forum that this can be because you have damaged the crank arm Octalink (?) thread like thing and sure enough I had rubbed a lot of the zigzags away by not tightening up enough. I had a spare right crank arm. I wonder if there is any way of mending the old Octalink (?) zigzags. I have done the replacement crank arm up really tightly.

Part of the problem was the hollowtech crank bolt. The tool I was using was the standard thumb wheel type thing which has no leverage. This time I used the head of some snub nose pliers to do up the hollowtech crank cap and that worked better but it is annoying. It can not I think be over-tighted since the zigzags on the crank spline/axle are only so long. Is this more Shimano planned obsolescence (like carbon sole shoes without replaceable heels and soft plastic spd-sl cleats)? I have just purchased some new aluminum crank caps that be tightened with an Allen key from China here in pretty colours.Oops. I purchased the wrong size (M18) when roadbike hollow tech two is M20 so am reordering from the same store.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32822473805.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.1000014.23.6e6614eavTvjlE&gps-id=pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller&scm=1007.33416.213724.0&scm_id=1007.33416.213724.0&scm-url=1007.33416.213724.0&pvid=b7922d9c-75fd-4d05-954b-fb993342a7c9&_t=gps-idcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller,scm-url:1007.33416.213724.0,pvid:b7922d9c-75fd-4d05-954b-fb993342a7c9,tpp_buckets:668%232846%238109%231935&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sceneId%22:%2223416%22,%22sku_id%2 2:%2264885474770%22%7D
Really cheap too. The Allen key (hexagonal wrench) required is 10mm.

The Chinese also sell a hollowtech tool to which leverage can be applied but I could purchase three caps for about the same price.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005...754563e4d00-16

By the way, the hard plastic SPD-SL cleats mentioned I think in this thread are dangerous (because the plastic is hard and slippery) but the last forever and become less slippery once roughed up a bit. I have been using them for 18 months and they are still going strong @ 5USD
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000...27424c4dilG3qU

I also realized that the reason why my chain was starting to slip, from the large chain-ring, was due to bottom bracket play rather than due to the chain being worn out (so quickly) yet. I hope so since the chain is so cheap and 11s, which as Kimmo points out, is important to use 11s not cheap 10s chains to protect the cassette, chain-rings and save watts.

I also renewed the closed cell foam mat on my "sofa-bars" to yellow to match my bike frame and the yellow bracket covers that I purchased from China for about 5USD.
New Sofa Bars by Timothy Takemoto, on Flickr

The colourful brake covers can be purchased here
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005...1a4d4c4dEGIS76

The bits of matting can be purchased at 100 yen (1 dollar) stores but since they don't stock yellow where I am I ordered mine from China for about 2.5 times the price.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005...27424c4d3pVJ5J

Last edited by timtak; 09-19-21 at 05:22 AM. Reason: add tool link and mat and covers and correct retaining bolt size
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Old 10-10-21, 01:43 AM
  #122  
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I replaced my 53-39 chainrings with some 52-36 chainrings, despite my recently acquired knee fitness, simply because my 53-39 set were worn and the chain was dropping off the bigger ring and the 52-36 were being offered new at a reduced price.

Chain drop from the bigger ring is usually the way that I judge that a chain is worn and the chain I am using is getting old but having changed to a brand new ring it is clear that chain drop is a function of chain and chainring wear. Chainrings at 50-65 USD are more expensive than the chains at 15-30 USD that I use but all the same, I am going to pay attention to chainring wear in future. The chainrings are from the newer Shimano R7000 series with different profile to the R5800 series crank arms and spider on my bike, which does not look pretty, but it does not seem to make any difference to the function. I usually use 53-39. I can't tell the difference between 53 and 52 but the smaller 36 tooth smaller ring allows for a perceptibly larger instant down change when turning to go up hills. The old chain no longer slips down from the top ring at all. I need to make it a link shorter.

New 52-36 Chainring by Timothy Takemoto, on Flickr

I used my new torque wrench purchased from China, as usual, to tighten the chainring bolts to about 14Nm.

I used the new aluminium crank caps, mentioned in the last post, with 10mm hexagonal holes to tighten them up. I don't have my 10mm Allen Key with me at the moment so I stuff one side of a pair of pliers in the hole to tighten them up but even so I could get more torque than the horrible Hollowtech thumb wheel.

I also changed the brake cover on my old Felt to some more colourful new ones from China. They don't quite fit 5700 series but they are a quarter of the price, so I will put up with it.

My new colourful brake cover from China
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Old 10-12-21, 05:01 PM
  #123  
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I had to re-dish the back wheel on my '80 Trek 414. My gravel bike.
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Old 10-21-21, 07:09 AM
  #124  
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I flushed out my Ultegra 6703 right shifter (10 spd) again. It has 68k miles on it. Hopefully that's all that's needed. A replacement looks about impossible.
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Old 10-29-21, 11:14 PM
  #125  
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Shifters are so expensive (c. 130 usd on ebay) so I hope flushing solved the problem. I wish they could be taken apart and repaired.

My cheapo chain is lasting well. Lately it started to make a creaking noise each rotation and dropping from the big chainwheel again. The noise sounded like the missing link was getting weak but I have never had chain drop due to a missing link but, the missing link had play and now that I have replaced it the chain is fine again. No noise, no drop.

Missing Links by Timothy Takemoto, on Flickr

I had a KMC chain once that creaked through tree missing links (or two, and died on the third), with creaking, but no chain drop, each time the missing link got old. The missing links are very cheap from China.

And since it is chilly (less than 10C in the mornings) I have put my hand fairings back on (made by extending motorbike handle fairings like these, of which I have just ordered another pair), and the photo shows the hexagonal gold Hollowtech crank retaining nut mentioned above.

Hand Fairings and Hex Hollowtech by Timothy Takemoto, on Flickr

And I also repacked my front wheel bearings with grease. All I needed was a thin 13mm spanner to hold the bearing covers as I unscrew the 17mm bolts. I used a steel bar to push (or bash) the bearings out tapping from the other side. I removed the rubber covers with a precision screw driver and pack them with grease. They roll well.

But I have found and ordered sealed bearings for 30 to 50 US cents a bearing so my grease repacking days are over, for the time being.

Last edited by timtak; 10-30-21 at 07:25 PM.
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