SRAM eTap: 0 & 2 in the count... One more strike and YOU'RE OUT!!
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Mission Viejo, CA
Posts: 95
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 10 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
SRAM eTap: 0 & 2 in the count... One more strike and YOU'RE OUT!!
So... I was very fortunate to get the eTap grouppo for my birthday.... So far, it's been a nightmare!
I was coming from the original 10sp SRAM Red, "upgraded" to eTap WiFli 11-32... figured moving from the 10sp, I would just be adding the 32 bailout gear, which can be useful in my area!
STRIKE ONE: Had my local LBS install the groupset... to find out the rear derailleur was DOA (yes batteries were fully charged). Shifted fine in the smaller cogs... but moving up the cassette, it would sputter and shift extremely slow! The mechanic installed another derailleur from an off the self s-works, and it worked fine, so ruled out any other component/pairing issue.
After a long conversation with SRAM, determined it is probably a bad servo, instructed to send the derailleur back and they would ship a new one out... a one week delay!
STRIKE TWO: Got the new derailleur installed and after only one ride, began having problems. Shifting in the lower cogs (11-13) was very poor. sometimes a 2-3 second delay or requiring 2 "clicks", the cage would move and you can hear it trying to shift up, but nothing. Shifting from 14-32 was flawless! Weird thing is the issues in the 11-13 were intermittent. This made me believe it was not an adjustment issue.
Went back to my LBS and they attempted to adjust the derailleur, but no change... Again, long conversation with SRAM. They think I have another "bad" derailleur!... Send it back and waiting for a new one to be sent (overnight this time).
Possibly, I may be having the worst luck ever! I have searched for similar issues on various forums and have not seen similar issues.
I told my mechanic if the 3rd derailleur is bad, I'm gonna ask SRAM to reimburse me and go to DA Di2. I hope this is not the case.... I really like the clean setup with less cables. The shifting is very intuitive, didn't even have to think about which paddle (or blip) to press for shifting... but I'm done after this!
Don't want to hear... should have gone DA!
Interested to hear if anyone else has had/or heard of any issues like this!
Specs:
2012 Tarmac SL4 Pro
11sp Zipp 404's
I was coming from the original 10sp SRAM Red, "upgraded" to eTap WiFli 11-32... figured moving from the 10sp, I would just be adding the 32 bailout gear, which can be useful in my area!
STRIKE ONE: Had my local LBS install the groupset... to find out the rear derailleur was DOA (yes batteries were fully charged). Shifted fine in the smaller cogs... but moving up the cassette, it would sputter and shift extremely slow! The mechanic installed another derailleur from an off the self s-works, and it worked fine, so ruled out any other component/pairing issue.
After a long conversation with SRAM, determined it is probably a bad servo, instructed to send the derailleur back and they would ship a new one out... a one week delay!
STRIKE TWO: Got the new derailleur installed and after only one ride, began having problems. Shifting in the lower cogs (11-13) was very poor. sometimes a 2-3 second delay or requiring 2 "clicks", the cage would move and you can hear it trying to shift up, but nothing. Shifting from 14-32 was flawless! Weird thing is the issues in the 11-13 were intermittent. This made me believe it was not an adjustment issue.
Went back to my LBS and they attempted to adjust the derailleur, but no change... Again, long conversation with SRAM. They think I have another "bad" derailleur!... Send it back and waiting for a new one to be sent (overnight this time).
Possibly, I may be having the worst luck ever! I have searched for similar issues on various forums and have not seen similar issues.
I told my mechanic if the 3rd derailleur is bad, I'm gonna ask SRAM to reimburse me and go to DA Di2. I hope this is not the case.... I really like the clean setup with less cables. The shifting is very intuitive, didn't even have to think about which paddle (or blip) to press for shifting... but I'm done after this!
Don't want to hear... should have gone DA!
Interested to hear if anyone else has had/or heard of any issues like this!
Specs:
2012 Tarmac SL4 Pro
11sp Zipp 404's
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Wichita, KS.
Posts: 861
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 167 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 11 Times
in
5 Posts
I don't have the WiFli RD but, I have not had any issues with shifting. The only problem I had was one of the limit screws on the FD was hitting the crank when in the big ring. I was able to get it to work but, shifting was not perfect. SRAM recently sent out shorter limit screws and everything is perfect now.
#3
On Your Left
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Long Island, New York, USA
Posts: 8,373
Bikes: Trek Emonda SLR, Sram eTap, Zipp 303
Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3004 Post(s)
Liked 2,433 Times
in
1,187 Posts
6000+ miles with a short cage RD and not a single problem.
#4
- Soli Deo Gloria -
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Northwest Georgia
Posts: 14,779
Bikes: 2018 Rodriguez Custom Fixed Gear, 2017 Niner RLT 9 RDO, 2015 Bianchi Pista, 2002 Fuji Robaix
Mentioned: 235 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6844 Post(s)
Liked 736 Times
in
469 Posts
It would be interesting to know if the failed derailleurs had similar serial numbers or were manufactured on the same day or same shift. Sometimes replacement computer parts go bad like that - a whole string of sequential serial numbers is bad.
Keep in mind that derailleurs are electronics just like any other electronic device. Magnetic tools are a no-no. I have no idea how SRAM adjusts but someone could have used a magnetic screwdriver and killed it.
-Tim-
Keep in mind that derailleurs are electronics just like any other electronic device. Magnetic tools are a no-no. I have no idea how SRAM adjusts but someone could have used a magnetic screwdriver and killed it.
-Tim-
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Earth
Posts: 372
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 127 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
The etap front derailleur on my frame can't be placed low enough on the braze on and constantly throws the chain off when shifting into the big ring. When the limit screw is adjusted to move the cage inboard it no longer drops the chain, but I get rub. So I chose rub and bad shifting into the big ring over a dropped chain ever other shift. I can get a 53/39 to get the teeth closer to the cage. But my average speeds at about 10mph. I've been trying to find a machinist to make me a custom braze on, but no one is interested in such a tiny one off job. This is a design problem that more than a few people experience on different brands of frames.
#6
Senior Member
There's no way a magnetic screwdriver could have done anything to the SRAM system.
#7
Senior Member
The etap front derailleur on my frame can't be placed low enough on the braze on and constantly throws the chain off when shifting into the big ring. When the limit screw is adjusted to move the cage inboard it no longer drops the chain, but I get rub. So I chose rub and bad shifting into the big ring over a dropped chain ever other shift. I can get a 53/39 to get the teeth closer to the cage. But my average speeds at about 10mph. I've been trying to find a machinist to make me a custom braze on, but no one is interested in such a tiny one off job. This is a design problem that more than a few people experience on different brands of frames.
#8
- Soli Deo Gloria -
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Northwest Georgia
Posts: 14,779
Bikes: 2018 Rodriguez Custom Fixed Gear, 2017 Niner RLT 9 RDO, 2015 Bianchi Pista, 2002 Fuji Robaix
Mentioned: 235 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6844 Post(s)
Liked 736 Times
in
469 Posts
The old school computer repair tech in me still shrinks back whenever I see someone with a screwdriver doing anything around electronic components.
-Tim-
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 54
Bikes: CDale Synapse Hi-Mod 3, Bianchi Oltre XR.1, Giant Anthem Advanced 29er
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
The etap front derailleur on my frame can't be placed low enough on the braze on and constantly throws the chain off when shifting into the big ring. When the limit screw is adjusted to move the cage inboard it no longer drops the chain, but I get rub. So I chose rub and bad shifting into the big ring over a dropped chain ever other shift. I can get a 53/39 to get the teeth closer to the cage. But my average speeds at about 10mph. I've been trying to find a machinist to make me a custom braze on, but no one is interested in such a tiny one off job. This is a design problem that more than a few people experience on different brands of frames.
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Earth
Posts: 372
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 127 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
If you don't mind what chain rings? I have the Praxis Works Buzz and mine did the same thing to the big ring. I decided to bring it to a shop (2 in fact). They got it to shift but I wouldn't say it is ideal, if I shift and my cadence is below 80 it will not shift to the big ring, anything above 80 is fine.
#13
NYC
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 3,714
Mentioned: 18 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1169 Post(s)
Liked 107 Times
in
62 Posts
eTap WiFli 11-32, 50/34 cranks, works perfectly.
WiFli seems very intolerant of any less than perfect rear hanger alignment... but with the long arm, I'm not surprised.
Dropped the chain first ride, put it back on the stand and repeated the front der install being more anal about height and alignment and noticed, oh hey, I have to do the limit screws. Been perfect since.
For the record, I had to raise it 1mm higher than indicated to keep it from rubbing on the big ring teeth when shifted to the small ring.
WiFli seems very intolerant of any less than perfect rear hanger alignment... but with the long arm, I'm not surprised.
Dropped the chain first ride, put it back on the stand and repeated the front der install being more anal about height and alignment and noticed, oh hey, I have to do the limit screws. Been perfect since.
For the record, I had to raise it 1mm higher than indicated to keep it from rubbing on the big ring teeth when shifted to the small ring.
#14
FLIR Kitten to 0.05C
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Lincoln, Nebraska
Posts: 5,331
Bikes: Roadie: Seven Axiom Race Ti w/Chorus 11s. CX/Adventure: Carver Gravel Grinder w/ Di2
Mentioned: 30 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2349 Post(s)
Liked 406 Times
in
254 Posts
So... I was very fortunate to get the eTap grouppo for my birthday.... So far, it's been a nightmare!
I was coming from the original 10sp SRAM Red, "upgraded" to eTap WiFli 11-32... figured moving from the 10sp, I would just be adding the 32 bailout gear, which can be useful in my area!
STRIKE ONE: Had my local LBS install the groupset... to find out the rear derailleur was DOA (yes batteries were fully charged). Shifted fine in the smaller cogs... but moving up the cassette, it would sputter and shift extremely slow! The mechanic installed another derailleur from an off the self s-works, and it worked fine, so ruled out any other component/pairing issue.
After a long conversation with SRAM, determined it is probably a bad servo, instructed to send the derailleur back and they would ship a new one out... a one week delay!
STRIKE TWO: Got the new derailleur installed and after only one ride, began having problems. Shifting in the lower cogs (11-13) was very poor. sometimes a 2-3 second delay or requiring 2 "clicks", the cage would move and you can hear it trying to shift up, but nothing. Shifting from 14-32 was flawless! Weird thing is the issues in the 11-13 were intermittent. This made me believe it was not an adjustment issue.
Went back to my LBS and they attempted to adjust the derailleur, but no change... Again, long conversation with SRAM. They think I have another "bad" derailleur!... Send it back and waiting for a new one to be sent (overnight this time).
Possibly, I may be having the worst luck ever! I have searched for similar issues on various forums and have not seen similar issues.
I told my mechanic if the 3rd derailleur is bad, I'm gonna ask SRAM to reimburse me and go to DA Di2. I hope this is not the case.... I really like the clean setup with less cables. The shifting is very intuitive, didn't even have to think about which paddle (or blip) to press for shifting... but I'm done after this!
Don't want to hear... should have gone DA!
Interested to hear if anyone else has had/or heard of any issues like this!
Specs:
2012 Tarmac SL4 Pro
11sp Zipp 404's
I was coming from the original 10sp SRAM Red, "upgraded" to eTap WiFli 11-32... figured moving from the 10sp, I would just be adding the 32 bailout gear, which can be useful in my area!
STRIKE ONE: Had my local LBS install the groupset... to find out the rear derailleur was DOA (yes batteries were fully charged). Shifted fine in the smaller cogs... but moving up the cassette, it would sputter and shift extremely slow! The mechanic installed another derailleur from an off the self s-works, and it worked fine, so ruled out any other component/pairing issue.
After a long conversation with SRAM, determined it is probably a bad servo, instructed to send the derailleur back and they would ship a new one out... a one week delay!
STRIKE TWO: Got the new derailleur installed and after only one ride, began having problems. Shifting in the lower cogs (11-13) was very poor. sometimes a 2-3 second delay or requiring 2 "clicks", the cage would move and you can hear it trying to shift up, but nothing. Shifting from 14-32 was flawless! Weird thing is the issues in the 11-13 were intermittent. This made me believe it was not an adjustment issue.
Went back to my LBS and they attempted to adjust the derailleur, but no change... Again, long conversation with SRAM. They think I have another "bad" derailleur!... Send it back and waiting for a new one to be sent (overnight this time).
Possibly, I may be having the worst luck ever! I have searched for similar issues on various forums and have not seen similar issues.
I told my mechanic if the 3rd derailleur is bad, I'm gonna ask SRAM to reimburse me and go to DA Di2. I hope this is not the case.... I really like the clean setup with less cables. The shifting is very intuitive, didn't even have to think about which paddle (or blip) to press for shifting... but I'm done after this!
Don't want to hear... should have gone DA!
Interested to hear if anyone else has had/or heard of any issues like this!
Specs:
2012 Tarmac SL4 Pro
11sp Zipp 404's
I've known many people who swore at SRAM mech shifting...when reality was it wasn't setup right by their LBS.
The etap front derailleur on my frame can't be placed low enough on the braze on and constantly throws the chain off when shifting into the big ring. When the limit screw is adjusted to move the cage inboard it no longer drops the chain, but I get rub. So I chose rub and bad shifting into the big ring over a dropped chain ever other shift. I can get a 53/39 to get the teeth closer to the cage. But my average speeds at about 10mph. I've been trying to find a machinist to make me a custom braze on, but no one is interested in such a tiny one off job. This is a design problem that more than a few people experience on different brands of frames.
The blame for a badly placed FD braze ultimately lies with the frameset maker...only way it is SRAM's fault is if they published OEM documentation about where the braze should be that was wrong.
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 8,922
Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4717 Post(s)
Liked 1,882 Times
in
998 Posts
The etap front derailleur on my frame can't be placed low enough on the braze on and constantly throws the chain off when shifting into the big ring. When the limit screw is adjusted to move the cage inboard it no longer drops the chain, but I get rub. So I chose rub and bad shifting into the big ring over a dropped chain ever other shift. I can get a 53/39 to get the teeth closer to the cage. But my average speeds at about 10mph. I've been trying to find a machinist to make me a custom braze on, but no one is interested in such a tiny one off job. This is a design problem that more than a few people experience on different brands of frames.
Last edited by noodle soup; 04-26-17 at 11:36 AM.
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 28,682
Bikes: 1990 Romic Reynolds 531 custom build, Merlin Works CR Ti custom build, super light Workswell 066 custom build
Mentioned: 109 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6556 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 58 Times
in
36 Posts
The etap front derailleur on my frame can't be placed low enough on the braze on and constantly throws the chain off when shifting into the big ring. When the limit screw is adjusted to move the cage inboard it no longer drops the chain, but I get rub. So I chose rub and bad shifting into the big ring over a dropped chain ever other shift. I can get a 53/39 to get the teeth closer to the cage. But my average speeds at about 10mph. I've been trying to find a machinist to make me a custom braze on, but no one is interested in such a tiny one off job. This is a design problem that more than a few people experience on different brands of frames.
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 28,682
Bikes: 1990 Romic Reynolds 531 custom build, Merlin Works CR Ti custom build, super light Workswell 066 custom build
Mentioned: 109 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6556 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 58 Times
in
36 Posts
The clamp on the derailleur will support the brazed on bracket when tightened into place.
#20
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Mission Viejo, CA
Posts: 95
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 10 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
rear hanger was checked for proper alignment, and changed out for the hell of it... did not solve the problem
eTap WiFli 11-32, 50/34 cranks, works perfectly.
WiFli seems very intolerant of any less than perfect rear hanger alignment... but with the long arm, I'm not surprised.
Dropped the chain first ride, put it back on the stand and repeated the front der install being more anal about height and alignment and noticed, oh hey, I have to do the limit screws. Been perfect since.
For the record, I had to raise it 1mm higher than indicated to keep it from rubbing on the big ring teeth when shifted to the small ring.
WiFli seems very intolerant of any less than perfect rear hanger alignment... but with the long arm, I'm not surprised.
Dropped the chain first ride, put it back on the stand and repeated the front der install being more anal about height and alignment and noticed, oh hey, I have to do the limit screws. Been perfect since.
For the record, I had to raise it 1mm higher than indicated to keep it from rubbing on the big ring teeth when shifted to the small ring.
#21
Junior Member
I set up my etap myself and it has worked great. The only issue was that I, like others, had to file the FD hanger a bit to get the FD low enough for my compact crank.
That said - sram's instructions are quite detailed and I followed them carefully. In your case I'd suggest double checking the RD hanger alignment, the chain length, and the b-screw to start with. Good luck!
That said - sram's instructions are quite detailed and I followed them carefully. In your case I'd suggest double checking the RD hanger alignment, the chain length, and the b-screw to start with. Good luck!
#22
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Mission Viejo, CA
Posts: 95
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 10 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
My LBS has done quite a few eTap installations... everything was done as instructed by SRAM.
[QUOTE=Marcus_Ti;19539807]Lemons happen. Regarding your "strike two" this sounded like a calibration issue to me. Ghost shifting on an electric drivetrain are classic mis-calibration symptoms. Many good shops sell Di2 or Di2 bikes, but don't follow the book on how to build it up virgin, they go on autopilot and set it how they would a mech drivetrain.
I've known many people who swore at SRAM mech shifting...when reality was it wasn't setup right by their LBS.
[QUOTE=Marcus_Ti;19539807]Lemons happen. Regarding your "strike two" this sounded like a calibration issue to me. Ghost shifting on an electric drivetrain are classic mis-calibration symptoms. Many good shops sell Di2 or Di2 bikes, but don't follow the book on how to build it up virgin, they go on autopilot and set it how they would a mech drivetrain.
I've known many people who swore at SRAM mech shifting...when reality was it wasn't setup right by their LBS.