highstream

I recently picked up a good few year old Kona Jake the Snake at the local swap and have turned it into a road bike. For pedals, I decided to go with SPD-SL (Ultegra), instead of SPD, which are on my old road bike. Today was my first day with the pedals (and Shimano RP3 shoes), and boy was I in for a surprise. So hard were they to get out of, I ended up riding the neighborhood with one bike shoe at a time, tension adjusted to the lowest, just repeatedly clipping in and out. Still, after an hour with each foot, it was taking a concerted effort and lots of concentration, and sometimes that wasn't enough short of repeated tries. Pretty scary to think of riding both both at the same time in this state. Is there any way to speed up the process? Thanks,

hueyhoolihan

go back to the SPD's? i did... actually eggbeaters.

lyrictenor1

Were the pedals and cleats new or used? They really shouldn't have that much tension, especially with the tension set to the lowest.

highstream

Eggbeaters are what came with, but they didn't look like as good platform for road bike shoes. I ride in the northern Rockies, where climbing is part of the show. I also have trouble with shoe fit, as discussed on another thread, so it's either the RP3's or my old (heavier) Pearl Izumi SPD's make things a lot easier (https://www.bikeforums.net/road-cycli...l#post19537002).

highstream

Both new.

StanSeven

+1. Something is possibly wrong with the pedal tension.

If you are using new cleats, they are a little tight at first but they shouldn't be like you're experiencing

Edit: make sure the indicator is showing min. That should be at the top of the slot

highstream

Not sure what you mean by showing minimum, but both are at the top of the slot with just red showing, and I can't turn the screw (counterclockwise) any further. A tech at the bike shop saw the screw out all the way too, but said they take awhile to break in (didn't buy from them).

adamhenry

You could try a light coating of grease on the cleats until they loosen up a bit.

highstream

There's a video I just found:
Maybe I wasn't dropping my heel, but trying to free from the forefoot. Will try again tomorrow.

f4rrest

I've never had this problem with SPD-SL.

Are you doing it right?

hsuehhwa

It takes time to break in the new cleats too. I've had >20k miles using SPD-SL. I still wouldn't just install a pair of new cleats and go out for a long ride. Since usually I clip out with my left foot, the cleat on my right has much less wear. I just change one new cleat at a time: move the right cleat (which has already broken in) to my left, and install the new cleat on my right.


The position of the cleats matter too. If they're all the way down toward the center of your feet (which many think is better for your knees), you would have much less momentum to clip out. Just move it up 1 cm or 2 cm.


Don't give up. It will be a lot better after a few days.

mcours2006

I own quite few pairs of Shimano SPD-SL pedals and never have any problems with unclipping. Some set on minimum tension, so moderate. Perhaps some oil/grease might resolve the problem.

KevinF

I have one set of DuraAce SPD-SL pedals and a set of 105-style SPD-SL pedals. The 105's are definitely a little harder to get in / out of than the DuraAce pedals (same shoes), but it's not "impossible" to the point that the OP is talking about here. Both pedals are set to moderate tension. The DuraAce pedals have a LOT more miles than the 105 pedals.

I switch out cleats periodically and I just "go"; doesn't seem to require much, if any, "break in" time.

I concur with the other suggestions of putting a little dab of grease on the pedals and trying again.

highstream

Today I put a little Park Tool (pedal thread) grease on the back inside of the pedals and the back of the cleats, and worked on twisting off with my heel in a heel down position. I also tried the cleats in a couple of different fore-aft positions. Working with one bike shoe on at a time, occasionally it unclipped right away with some effort, but most of the time it took more of a 2-3 count and sometimes a good 10-15 seconds and multiple tries before it came free. Disappointing. On the possibility that it's a defective, I've contacted JensonUSA (their warranty dept currently takes emails only; something about the noise of construction). So I'll see. Thanks everyone for your comments and suggestions.

Update: Jenson says if I can clip in and out, it's not likely a defective, just "not as easy as expected." I can send them in, but... Not sure what to do.

hueyhoolihan

i'd send them back. IMO, that response from Jenson was calculated, knowingly or unknowingly to enhance the likelyhood that you will just put up with them the way they are.

highstream

I wouldn't be surprised if you're right about that. Not dealing with returns except via warranty is one way of keeping prices lower. The bike needs a little work, so I took it all, including the shoes, down to the local Kona dealer to play with. Should know more tomorrow or Saturday.

hueyhoolihan

nice that you have an LBS that takes an interest in a customer that bought the item in question from a competitor. you are lucky.

i wouldn't have the balls to do that, figure i would have a better than even chance of getting slapped in the face with a pair of damp cycling shorts or something. kudos.

dksix

What color are the cleats? I'm wondering if you have some with the max float and are requiring a lot more twist than you're used to.

highstream

As the only Kona dealer in a small northern Rockies town with lots of general bike competition and business still between seasons, they are happy to help someone who will likely come to them first for at least some kinds of service and parts, as I did after picking up the bike at the swap. They've now gotten some $$ on a couple of service visits, and they know I would have purchased Schwalbe tubeless tires through them, but due to U.S. stocking issues they couldn't get them in a reasonable amount of time. The irony here is that about ten years ago with my Schwinn cross bike (the original from around 1990), they replaced the bottom bracket when that turned out not to be the problem at all, which led me not to go back again until now with the Jake. Different and seemingly more skilled personnel now, it seems so far.

highstream

Yellow/black. They are the ones that came with the Ultegra PD-6800, SM-SH11 I assume. The Shimano site says the RP3 shoes are best matched with the PD-R550 pedals, but would that really make a difference? I assume that's more targeted marketing.

Btw, I notice some used Dura Ace pedals advertised with 9/16" thread. I take it that's not standard?

dksix

Yellow are the 6 degree float, blue is 2 degree and red is fix IIRC (someone correct that if I've gotten it wrong). I haven't had any problems getting loose from the pedals with my red cleats.

9/16" is normal spindle diameter for 3 pc cranks, 1 peice have 1/2 threads (once again going off memory).

jch3n

How much do you weigh? According to some people, the minimum release tension of SPD-SL pedals might still be too much for lighter folks. It's all a matter of relative perception I guess.

From Steve Hogg: https://www.stevehoggbikefitting.com...hich-are-best/

Masque

Can confirm new 6800 pedals are tragically, hilariously stiff when new.

Can confirm also the potential for tibiofibular hypomobility resulting from excessive high-tension unclipping, which is awful awful awful.

Recommend counterstrain after using new pedals. Also breaking in with older cleats.

Not sure why these even have a tension adjustment. They go from "good God, are you kidding" all the way up to "officer, he was so frustrated he threw his bike on the tracks, and the impact of the train destroyed everything save these pedals, still clipped to his shoes" tension.

jmess

Agree about 6800s being too stiff. I have had DuraAce pedals on all my bikes and never had any problems. Got some 6800s for a new comfort bike and found the spring tension is too tight even on full loose. I am thinking Shimano installs a different spring in the 6800s.

memebag

I don't understand how dropping or raising your heel would make a difference. The pedal pivots freely on that axis. Unclipping is about yaw, not pitch.