Questions about my first road bike
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Questions about my first road bike
Just purchased my first road bike on craigslist, and naturally I always feel terrified and remorseful making big purchases like this! Took it out for a 20 miler and it seemed really smooth with no noticeable issues.
Some specs:
-Cannondale CAAD9
-Tiagra groupset components (except front derailleur is Sora which I didn't notice, ack!)
-Shimano WH-R500 tires w/ Vittoria Zaffiro rubbers
-Tektro brakes
-Frame has some minor scuffs in some areas but overall in good condition
(1) First question, I picked this up for $500. Was this a good deal??
(2) Second, the right hand brake and shifters on the handlebar is tilted downward relative to the left side one (pic attached). Is this a personal preference thing, and something that is typically adjustable?
Thanks in advance for all your knowledge guys, I'm completely new to road biking and appreciate all the insight and assurance!
Some specs:
-Cannondale CAAD9
-Tiagra groupset components (except front derailleur is Sora which I didn't notice, ack!)
-Shimano WH-R500 tires w/ Vittoria Zaffiro rubbers
-Tektro brakes
-Frame has some minor scuffs in some areas but overall in good condition
(1) First question, I picked this up for $500. Was this a good deal??
(2) Second, the right hand brake and shifters on the handlebar is tilted downward relative to the left side one (pic attached). Is this a personal preference thing, and something that is typically adjustable?
Thanks in advance for all your knowledge guys, I'm completely new to road biking and appreciate all the insight and assurance!
Last edited by The 585; 05-13-17 at 11:45 AM.
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Eugene, Oregon, USA
Posts: 27,547
Mentioned: 217 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18373 Post(s)
Liked 4,508 Times
in
3,351 Posts
That should be a great bike!!! $500 sounds like a reasonable deal.
Sometimes the shifters can come loose and work down on the bars. You'll probably have to remove the bar tape, loosen the right shifter, and raise it up. Then, tighten it down well.
I had that happen to me once. One symptom was that the rear brake, I think, kept getting tighter and tighter the more I rode, as I had to slowly open the release lever.
It looks like the bar tape is in pretty good shape. Can you tell if it is glued down? If there is no glue/sticky, then it may be able to be unwrapped, adjusted, and put back on.
Sometimes the shifters can come loose and work down on the bars. You'll probably have to remove the bar tape, loosen the right shifter, and raise it up. Then, tighten it down well.
I had that happen to me once. One symptom was that the rear brake, I think, kept getting tighter and tighter the more I rode, as I had to slowly open the release lever.
It looks like the bar tape is in pretty good shape. Can you tell if it is glued down? If there is no glue/sticky, then it may be able to be unwrapped, adjusted, and put back on.
#3
Farmer tan
Just pry up the rubber on the hood a bit so you can fit a long Allen hex key on an angle into the bolt that tightens/loosens the clamp.
Once it's loose, you can slide the shifter back up where it belongs, and then re-tighten it.
You may be able to do it without removing any of the tape. But if you do note that tape removal starts at the top of the bar, not at the bar end. You can reuse the tape.
Once it's loose, you can slide the shifter back up where it belongs, and then re-tighten it.
You may be able to do it without removing any of the tape. But if you do note that tape removal starts at the top of the bar, not at the bar end. You can reuse the tape.
#4
Member
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 47
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 22 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I've owned a CAAD9 and paid a similar amount, although mine had upgraded 105 components and I purchased it a while ago. I actually just purchased a CAAD10 (105) for the same price. Regardless, the price may be slightly higher than I would have paid based on the components you mentioned, but still reasonable and I haven't seen many white CAAD9s (I like the color scheme). As far as the STI levers are concerned, follow the above advice - or go to youtube and search for replacing STI levers or similar to see how these are aligned.
Also, I recommend removing the plastic pie disc on your real wheel as well as the reflectors. Just an FYI, it's a good idea to make sure your photo is of the drive side of the bike.
Also, I recommend removing the plastic pie disc on your real wheel as well as the reflectors. Just an FYI, it's a good idea to make sure your photo is of the drive side of the bike.
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 8,688
Mentioned: 46 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1074 Post(s)
Liked 295 Times
in
222 Posts
You've bought it. The time to worry about the price is past. Discovering NOW that you overpaid will only make you cranky.
And - assuming the bike is a decent fit - it doesn't matter much.
If you get into riding regularly, it won't take long to drop the cost/hour or cost/mile to perfectly acceptable levels.
While grip position as such is subject to personal preference, I've never met anyone deliberately preferring different height/angle left/right.
It's more likely to be a result of some accidental slippage.
You might be able to peel the hood back, loosen the clamp and simply scoot the lever back up. Or you might have to partially undo the wrap to get the lever back in position.
And - assuming the bike is a decent fit - it doesn't matter much.
If you get into riding regularly, it won't take long to drop the cost/hour or cost/mile to perfectly acceptable levels.
While grip position as such is subject to personal preference, I've never met anyone deliberately preferring different height/angle left/right.
It's more likely to be a result of some accidental slippage.
You might be able to peel the hood back, loosen the clamp and simply scoot the lever back up. Or you might have to partially undo the wrap to get the lever back in position.
#6
Senior Member
Ah, the good ol' buy first ask questions later. The BF way.
It is yours now, go enjoy it! As others have said, the hood can be adjusted.
It is yours now, go enjoy it! As others have said, the hood can be adjusted.
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Southern California
Posts: 1,416
Bikes: 2019 Supersix Evo, 2002 Trek 2000
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 273 Post(s)
Liked 45 Times
in
32 Posts
Yes, straighten out/level the shifters. While I'm not a fan of the position this guy put his, you can get a feel for how easy it'd be to move and tighten yours. Start watching around 2 minutes in:
As for the bike, it seems like a good deal to me. Consider removing the giant reflectors from the wheels as, in my opinion, the chance of them coming lose and causing a crash is higher than the chance someone will see you because they're there and avert an accident -- unless you plan to do a lot of night riding or something...
Don't worry about the Sora FD. The FD is a pretty simplistic part and probably the least impacted piece as far as groupset level/quality. It's fine.
As for the bike, it seems like a good deal to me. Consider removing the giant reflectors from the wheels as, in my opinion, the chance of them coming lose and causing a crash is higher than the chance someone will see you because they're there and avert an accident -- unless you plan to do a lot of night riding or something...
Don't worry about the Sora FD. The FD is a pretty simplistic part and probably the least impacted piece as far as groupset level/quality. It's fine.
#8
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Thank you guys!! Just readjusted the shifter thanks to your advice. Real easy, had to unwrap the grip tape and my re-wrap job looks rather sloppy, but I ordered some new tape anyways.
As for the components, I would love to upgrade them myself eventually. That would certainly add value! I'm looking forward to learning the DIY methods for bike maintenance. Thanks again for all your help and tips.
As for the components, I would love to upgrade them myself eventually. That would certainly add value! I'm looking forward to learning the DIY methods for bike maintenance. Thanks again for all your help and tips.
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Mid-Atlantic, USA
Posts: 357
Bikes: S-Works Tarmac 2017 - TREK Madone - Cannondale CAPO
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 206 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Thank you guys!! Just readjusted the shifter thanks to your advice. Real easy, had to unwrap the grip tape and my re-wrap job looks rather sloppy, but I ordered some new tape anyways.
As for the components, I would love to upgrade them myself eventually. That would certainly add value! I'm looking forward to learning the DIY methods for bike maintenance. Thanks again for all your help and tips.
As for the components, I would love to upgrade them myself eventually. That would certainly add value! I'm looking forward to learning the DIY methods for bike maintenance. Thanks again for all your help and tips.
#10
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Also, can bike cost be a factor of geographic location? I'm in the DC area and just about EVERYTHING is overpriced...
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Mid-Atlantic, USA
Posts: 357
Bikes: S-Works Tarmac 2017 - TREK Madone - Cannondale CAPO
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 206 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Hmmm just some generic tape from amazon. It was real cheap though, if it falls apart I'll get the better stuff and chalk that up as one of my first learning experiences.
Also, can bike cost be a factor of geographic location? I'm in the DC area and just about EVERYTHING is overpriced...
Also, can bike cost be a factor of geographic location? I'm in the DC area and just about EVERYTHING is overpriced...
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Eugene, Oregon, USA
Posts: 27,547
Mentioned: 217 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18373 Post(s)
Liked 4,508 Times
in
3,351 Posts
One thing about bar tape. I like to get it really tight. One may lose a little padding that way, but it lasts much better. Just take your time with it.
#13
Senior Member
Nice looking bike and the white looks awesome. I'm a fan of CAAD's and that price is fine in any part of the country. Have fun with the bar tape when it comes in, then have fun with the bike. I know from your other thread it's your first road bike, so don't worry about groupsets or other brand/labels on the bike. Go ride it and have fun. Get some clipless pedals and shoes next. With it being your first road bike, you'll learn over time what you like or don't like, and can upgrade/change from there. Contact points first, one of which you are already doing. Hands/feet/butt.
#14
Full Member
That bike is fine for the price I bought a card 5 which is alot older than urs but it was a mix of 105 and ultegra paid same price as u
#15
Full Member
As others have said just ride it and if it fits good and u take to riding it wil pay for itself I have almost 10000 miles on mine now not sure about the newer models but cannondale makes a great bike you should get many good miles out of it looks really nice as for upgrading parts not going to do much I upgraded mine to full ultegra and cost over 3 hundred bucks for not much in return a little better shifting but same performance
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 15,488
Bikes: 2015 Workswell 066, 2017 Workswell 093, 2014 Dawes Sheila, 1983 Cannondale 500, 1984 Raleigh Olympian, 2007 Cannondale Rize 4, 2017 Fuji Sportif 1 LE
Mentioned: 144 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7652 Post(s)
Liked 3,473 Times
in
1,834 Posts
Ride it a Lot before you buy new parts. If stuff works, use it.
What I have found is that no matter how much you spend, you don't get a Massive, Amazing upgrade in performance. In fact, after a few rides, you won't even notice the change.
You Could buy a complete Ultegra group for $500 .... or you could buy the parts piecemeal for half again as much.
With a little effort, you could turn a $900 bike into an $1800 bike that rode just the same.
If you Really feel a need to spend money for minimal return .... find out what the wheels weigh and buy something lighter. Make sure the tires are 290 tpi.
But seriously ...you just bought a really nice bike. Go ride it.
What I have found is that no matter how much you spend, you don't get a Massive, Amazing upgrade in performance. In fact, after a few rides, you won't even notice the change.
You Could buy a complete Ultegra group for $500 .... or you could buy the parts piecemeal for half again as much.
With a little effort, you could turn a $900 bike into an $1800 bike that rode just the same.
If you Really feel a need to spend money for minimal return .... find out what the wheels weigh and buy something lighter. Make sure the tires are 290 tpi.
But seriously ...you just bought a really nice bike. Go ride it.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
orcas island
Classic & Vintage
14
01-10-11 08:16 PM