'nother Disc Brake Road/Gravel Bike Build
 

This will be my second bike build and very different from my first which was a tandem. I would appreciate any polite advice.

I'm stuck on the crankset/bottom bracket because I'd like to go with Sram but I've read many reviews about problems with them. I don't want the Sram Red bb because of the cost and the fact that the color red will clash with my bike (at least that's what I was told years ago; red and pink together are a no-no :)). I would consider another manufacturer so ideas appreciated.

I also have no experience with the TRP Hy/Rd calipers. I used the Avid BB7 calipers on the tandem and not entirely happy with them.

I am fairly light at 115 pounds. For the wheel build: I'm planning 2x front disc side, radial front non-disc side and 2x both sides on the rear.

Frame/Fork: Stinner Refugio steel road/gravel, carbon fork
Headset: Cane Creek 110 Zero Stack, silver
Stem: Kalloy Uno Al
Handlebars: 3T ergonomic pro
Seatpost: Thompson Elite Alloy, silver
Rims: H Plus Son Hydra, silver
Hubs: White Industries CLD, 24h front and rear, pink
Spokes: Sapim CX-Ray
Rotors: Shimano ICE tech Freeza 140 front, 140 rear
Brake Calipers: TRP Hy/Rd Flat Mount
Shifters/Derailleurs: Sram etap
Cassette: Shimano 11-32
Bottom Bracket: Sram TBD - NOT Red due to cost and color clash
Crankset: Sram Red or Force 22 GPX 50/34

Why not White Industries? You could get pink extractors to match and maybe more useful gearing.

Was there a question in there or are you just seeking any comments on current spec?

I've heard good things about the Hy/Rd calipers, but with all of the major component manufacturers now offering hydro levers, that's the direction I'd take.

How long did it take for you to get the frame after you ordered it?

I must admit I didn't know they did bottom brackets. I will give them a call. Thanks!

A couple questions or comments:

There's a Sram GXP "team" bottom bracket for around $25 - would like to know if anyone has experience with non-Red sram bb and cranksets - issues with noise, play.

I've already bought the wifli shifters so won't be doing full hydraulic on this build.

Stinner is about 6-8 weeks out. The frame will be shipped to me in a couple weeks, I hope. I'm working on the rest of the build and only have the etap wifli at this time.

Honestly, if you are building a Stinner... you really should go all out and get a full hydro setup. I have heard decent things about the TRP's, but I don't think they will come close to the braking quality of my Shimano hydro, or the SRAM offerings. Plus, again, that is a REALLY nice frame, it deserves top shelf parts! I really want a Stinner someday, and I'd make the trip to Santa Barbara to pick it up in person and climb Gibraltar again.

I do wish I waited for hydraulic. No way I can throw away the $$$ I spent on the etap wifli and then spend a lot more on hydraulic. But any excuse in the near future will give me reason to swap. Hydraulic really makes sense on the tandem too.

Well worth the visit to Stinner; totally recommend. I just finished my husband's Ti Stinner build (mostly with parts he had on his Trek) and he loves the bike. For me it's just a gorgeous bike that accommodates his needs.

I have a Chris King GXP BB on one of my bikes. Seems to do the job. Mine is shiny silver. Don't know what other colours are available.
As for levers you need to consider the ergonomics and look of the mechanical vs hydro lever. I would choose on this as brake performance will be more than adequate with either.

what tires did you select?

HY/RDs are a big step up from BB7s. I doubt you'll feel like you are missing anything from a full hydro setup. You will definitely gain a better looking front end on your bike, though. Hydro levers are simply ugly.

The issue I'd raise re: cranks is gearing. 50/34 is steep gearing in larger tire sizes like 700x40...of which you might be limited due to the bulbous ETap FD anyway (it sticks out in all the wrong directions).

Sweet looking build otherwise.

I've bought 2 sets of tires. Panaracer Pasela (32s) and Vittoria Voyager (35s). The Panaracers are on the tandem right now. I might switch them out with the Vittoria just to check out the ride on the tandem. Stinner has a recommended tire but haven't heard back yet on what that is.

I do want at least 32s for riding lots of dirt and pavement that is worse than dirt where I am in New Hampshire. When I return to CA will put a smaller tire on the bike.

final build. @marcus Ti is correct about etap front derailleur battery interference with tires. I got the 35s on the bike, but barely and dirt/mud will be an issue. I'm looking around for 32s that will suit the kind of riding I plan to do which will surely include plenty of mud. Don't know that Sram etap is up for this use but I do like the bike and look forward to more comfort with steel.

http://sandiegodogtrainers.org/blog/stinner1.jpg

http://sandiegodogtrainers.org/blog/stinner2.jpg

Gorgeous. Love the subtle pink with mostly white, super classy.

Meh, weird looking to me, those extreme slack angles and that stem.

Have fun with it. I'm interested in your feedback about the Hy/Rd brakes.

Thanks. Pink has not been my color in the past but love the WI hubs and worked around them. Embracing pink. :)

Hmmm, SRAM levers and HY/RD calipers...if his experience is anything like that of @DrIsotope he may want to make some slight alterations to those brakes...

@BNB Does your front thru-axle install from the drive side of the bike?

Looks very nice! Bummer about the rear tire clearance. I think they claim 40mm will fit but doesn't seem likely. Panaracer Gravelking SK in 32 is pretty nice and would probably fit.

First ride with downpour rain and mud (it was sunny when I left!) - not used to this New England weather yet. Got "lucky" enough to ride behind a grader on dirt road. Not fun. Returned with wicked dirty bike.

Hy/Rd first impression: first, I found them difficult to align without rubbing the rotor but attainable. Very tight tolerance. Still, a pita compared to BB7. No disc noise from start, to bedding-in and then dry part of the ride. Loved the quiet for as long as it lasted. Loads of noise after rain and mud; the front brake squealed a lot with wet and mud. I cannot tell any difference whatsoever in the braking power over the BB7. But I will fall for these calipers if they continue to be quiet in dry conditions and if the pads never rattle inside the caliper (the bb7 pads will rattle when hitting bumps and I find I have to constantly brake to reseat them.)

Tomorrow is 115 miles. The slack angles are what I asked for given my aging and aching body. It's all about comfort for me now and that's why I chose steel. I want to continue riding long rides as late in life as possible! I will cut down the steerer tube when I'm sure of the best height for me.

Are you using compressionless brake housing? That gave me some trouble on the Chinabomb due to its stiffness and the short run of housing between the internal frame routing exit points and calipers. I had to unseat the housing from the calipers in order to get them to self-align with the pads engaged (actuating the brake arm on the caliper by hand). With the housing installed in the caliper stop, I think the stiffness of the housing was high enough to flex the rotor slightly resulting in imperfect alignment after tightening the fasteners no matter how many times I tried.

Yes, the front thru axle is inserted from the drive side. The rear from the NDS. I have an ENVE CX fork on the tandem that also inserts from the drive side. The rear axle inserts from the NDS as you can tell.

I had to go to the LBS for housing and I believe it is compressionless. The housing that came with the etap kit was not long enough since the rear brake cable is housed from the lever to the caliper - through the entire frame; so a long run. I used the etap-provided rear housing on the front brake which also runs from the lever to the caliper through the fork. I don't know enough about this to know how it would have affected the alignment. I engaged the pads fully while tightening the caliper bolts. In the end I put a thin piece of plastic on the side that would rub to force space there and it seemed to work. But, wow, it is tight. I don't align BB7 calipers anywhere near that close.

PS I'm interested in your chinabomb - my next build for (hopefully) ultralight bike for the weekly club ride where weight matters.