Cannondale Hollowgram Confusion
 

Is there anyone who can shed some light on all of the different variants of the Hollowgram Crank over the years? I'm in the middle of a component upgrade and have been considering a Hollowgram crank with a mid compact spidering. In my search for piecing together a crank I find there's the Hollowgram SI, SL, SISL, and SISL2 to choose from plus there's also a non Hollowgram version of the SI. I know that the SISL2's are the lightest and most expensive but out of my budget so out of the other variants, what should I look for or stay away from?

I want the mid compact 10 arm spidering along with the SISL2 spindle and hardware, just need to know which arms to look for. Thanks!

All Hollowgrams have the same interface for the spider/spiderrings, so you don't really have to worry about which version you get.

The original Si was silver. It is still super light and stiffer than DA7800. I ran a few of these, and still have one on my cross bike. You can find these used pretty cheap, and it's a great value.

The SISL was the second incarnation (~2008). It was originally silver, then made in black. It was renamed as or replaced by the SL at some point. They may not be exactly the same crank arms, but they are basically they same thing. The weight and stiffness should be pretty similar.

The SISL2 is the latest version. It is the lightest and most expensive of all of them.

There is a new crank that came out in the last year or so that is referred to as the SI. I am not as familiar with it. I am assuming it uses the same interface as the others.

The biggest area of concern at this point is the Spindle. Though it is the same for all versions of Hollowgrams, the original spindle was shorter - 104mm - and only worked in BB30 frames. The newer spindles are 109mm and work in BB30A frames. I'm not exactly sure when the spindles changed.

If you don't mind the Silver and money is a concern, the original arms are a tremendous value. If you want black, the SISL/SL is going to be much cheaper than SISL2. If weight is your concern and money not an issue, go SISL2.

Good to know about the spindle length, I'll have to double check if all the SISL2's are longer?

Here's all of the modern hollowgram arms.


Cannondale Si (solid forged)
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/324/3...bc34bf5f_n.jpg
Hollowgram Si (one piece, hollow)
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/256/3...bb952e4f_n.jpg
SiSL2 (two piece bonded hollow)
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4200/...a4987e1b_n.jpg

I believe the SL and old silver SI can work with the modern spindles, the length of the spindles could be an issue if your bike is newer than 2015
104mm is for the 68mm shell, 109mm spindle is for the 73mm shell.

Thanks, I've been trying to figure out what will and what will not work with my frame and sent an email to Cannondale Experts for a parts list. I did find a deal on some new SISL (not SISL2) crank arms that would fit between the Si and Sisl2 you displayed weighing 138g ea.

My only issue now is I keep looking at the new Ultegra crank which costs less than just the SISL arms themselves. I'm somewhat of a weight weenie so having the Hollowgram SISL arms with a 10 arm 52/36 spidering would save me right at 200g compared to the new Ultegra crank and wheels mfg BB30 to Shimano adapters.:foo:

If I end up needing the 104mm spindle, where can I find one? Been looking but keep coming up with the 109mm version. I read a post where you can use two 2.5mm spacers either on the right and left or 5mm on one side with the 109mm to adjust the chainline but some front derailleurs don't play well with it depending on the combination.

All the arms work with all the spindles. The interface has never changed, going all the way back to the first Hollowgram and including the old three-piece Carbon SI crank (there was a two-piece version that came out in 08 or 09).

You are more likely to need the 109 vs. the 104. There are spacers to run on the 109 if it's too long. If you are unsure which you need, you are better off getting the 109 over the 104. I don't think Cannondale even makes the 104 anymore.

Thanks for the info, it does appear that Cannondale discontinued production of the 104mm spindles so 109 it is. I guess the only thing left to consider is spacer placement. Will having my chainrings 2.5mm further out away from the bike cause any derailleur issues?

What year is your bike? If you aren't sure you can measure the bb shell. If it is 73mm, it is bb30a, which I don't believe there is a conversion for shimano cranks yet.
The size of the shell also determines the spacers you need. Caad10 uses 7.5mm NDS spacer and caad12 uses 2.5mm NDS spacer for example, with the same 109mm spindle. There is only one spacer on the DS and one on the NDS with a wave washer. Beyond that you should only be using .5mm spacers to adjust compression on the wave washer. Adding a bunch of spacers to try and compensate for the wrong spindle will **** up the q factor. You can check ebay for some 104mm if you need one. Figuring out your shell width is your first step.

http://cf-prd.cannondale.com/~/media...150921T143755Z

The spacer will be on the NDS.

It's not a big deal having the 109 on a 68 BB. I'm running it on my Allez Sprint.

Yes, but knowing the shell size tells you which spacers you need. Assuming he is talking about the caad10 in his profile.

Yes, it is my Caad10 with BB30 (not BB30A), 68mm wide shell so 7.5mm NDS spacer is needed as stated above by evan326. I don't know why I'm hesitant to pull the trigger on the SISL crank arms, I've always wanted a Hollowgram with spidering but find myself 2nd guessing my decision.

I ran that set up on my Caad 10 with BB30 before getting the Allez Sprint. It worked perfectly fine and looked good - which is the most important part.

The crankset came with a couple spacers. I don't recall which I used. The spacer really isn't a big deal. It transferred over to the Allez Sprint with zero issue.

One thing of note, you need special tools to remove the crank arms and the spider. I have them and most shops do too. They aren't cheap though.

Ok, you're 100% fine. I'm building a caad10 as a beater bike and I have a 109mm spindle, 2.6mm DS spacer, 7.5mm NDS spacer, and wave washer and it's perfectly fine.
Pulling the crank arms you only need a universal crank tool, and 11mm socket and a 3" extension. Lock ring tool unfortunately you have to buy.

Hey Evan, what crank arms and chainrings are you using? I'm looking at SISL arms with a 10arm 52/36 spidering.

Well, I'm still building the caad10 mainly due to laziness and work.
On my caad12 I had sisl2 170mm cranks, until my nds pedal stripped. I had a backup hollowgram si 170mm I planned to used on my caad10, that I had to use on my caad12. I just got it back from sending it out to have a 4iiii power meter installed on it.
I've had the entire range of modern hollowgram cranks on my caad12 at this point. Started with the fsa 52/36 and cannondale si 172.5mm cranks, now I have the 52/36 10 arm spidering on it with the 170mm sisl2 DS and 170mm hollowgram Si 4iiii NDS. I had a 53/39 fsa chainring set with hollowgram si 172.5mm on it while I was waiting for the 4iiii to come back. I also have the 10 arm 53/39 but I haven't tried it yet.
The sisl2 arms at least are notorious for cracking, I'm not sure if the sisl arms have the same issue but something to be aware of.

Can you clarify what bike you have and the year?

I have a 2013 CAAD10 Black Inc but to be honest, the more I read about the SISL2's and their issues with cracking, it has me reconsidering my choices. I've always wanted a Hollowgram but I'd also like to have some piece of mind while I'm out of the saddle climbing knowing my crank is going to hold up. I'm not exactly a small rider @230lbs.

I've also been looking at the new Easton EC90SL crankset that closely resembles the Hollowgram (arms and spindle) and is another lightweight option at 575g in a 52/36 configuration. I have the new EC90SL 38mm carbon wheels and their crank would match perfectly as they have the same outline lettering. Or, because I'm upgrading all of my components to the new Ultegra 8050 di2, just go for the budget option and get the Ultegra R8000 crank along with some Wheels mfg 24mm adapters but that adds almost 200 grams which goes against my inner weight weenie standards?

Cost wise, the Hollowgram with SISL arm and 10 arm spidering would be right at $630, Easton EC90SL $425, and Ultegra R8000 with adapters $260.

PICS REMOVED, LINKS NOT WORKING.

New Ultegra 8000 is a no brainer ergo value, cost/benefit. Shimano makes the best cranks in the industry. This is my opinion having worked on most of them.

Your pics don't work....
I'm no help with wheels, I'm still learning this, but I would say with your weight just go with Hollowgram Si cranks and don't look back.
I have a spare 170mm hollowgram si DS waiting for when my sisl2 arm hopefully never breaks under my 153lbs of bulk.

edit:
What crank do you have installed now? IF you already have a hollowgram variant, just get hollowgram si arms, a 10 arm spidering, cannondale lockring tool, and you can have a crank that weighs 585g with 172.5mm arms. I've got a spread sheet with weights for days.

Thanks for the replies everyone but the debate is over. For less than the cost of the Hollowgam crank itself I ended up buying an Ultegra R8000 52/36 crank, Dura Ace 9100 12-28 cassette, Dura Ace HG-901 chain, and the Wheels mfg BB30 adapters. As much as I wanted the Hollowgram, the Ultegra will look the part with the rest of my R8000/8050di2 setup and give me piece of mind as I ride. I think the combination of what I just ordered along with the soon to be released Ultegra R8050di2 front and rear derailleurs should be a nice shifting groupset.

One thing I don't understand is why Shimano makes a 12-28 cassette but not a 12-30? They have an 11-30 so why not 12-30 to help close the gap? I've been riding a 53/39 with a 12-28 and it covers 99% of my rides 99% of the time but there's one climb that gives me trouble (Sugarloaf mtn) so I wanted to lower my gearing just a bit. I'm hopeful that going from a 39 to a 36 small ring up front will do the trick. I almost got the 11-30 DA cassette but I know the 12-28 will feel better for the majority of rides I actually do most of the time.

Wise man to follow my advice and get the R8000 crank.:) Bang for buck Shimano cranks throughout the product line have no peer in my experience.

Tens of thousands that run Wheels Mfg BB30 adapters to mount Shimano cranks...but many opt for a Praxis sleeve with good success as well. Some believe the sleeve is a bit more reliable because still advisable to Loctite BB30 bearings to the bike if running Whl Mfg spacers to mount your Ultegra crank.


Good choice and be sure to come back and give us a review as the R8000 crank is relatively new.
With Shimano crank, now what you need is a Stages powermeter which is perhaps the single best piece of kit to make you a better rider.

Thanks man, I believe I made the right choice. As far as the adapters go, I've got the dreaded BB30 creak figured out, the bike has been noise free for a few years now using the green loctite trick along with some wheels mfg angular contact bearings so I'm confident the Shimano crank will be the same. I would love to get a powermeter and maybe if I'm lucky (and nice) Santa will be generous this year.

Cool. You are an enlightened man to know how to quiet the dreaded BB30 creak. If good with Loctite and angular contact bearings you are good to go and don't have to spring for the more pricey Praxis sleeve. I would do the same as you btw. BB30 can be effectively tamed with Loctite and angular contact bearings which is a very cost effective solution as well. No reason to pay $90 for a sleeve...versus 1/2 that for ABEC-5 angular contact bearings and bottle of loctite.

So you never had a crank on this bike in the first place?
Either way, if you're running shimano cranks you should get the praxis or similar. The wheels mfg adapters I've seen pretty mixed reviews on.

Yes, the bike came with an FSA SLK-Light std 53/39 crank. Going with the Ultegra crank and wheels mfg adapters. I know there's been mixed reviews using the adapters but it seems the problems have been with the BB30 bearing installation and not the conversion adapters. Regardless, its the cheapest option for me and if they don't work out I'm only out $25 and I can get the Praxis conversion later.