Road bike component sets
 

I have a 2007 Scattante Comp all carbon frame from Perf Bike that needs some new hardware. Ok, All new hardware. I'm not super rich so I've got to make my $$ count. I'm looking at the PB site (and others from my local area) and knowing what makes a good set of components from the zillions of combinations is daunting at best. A few assumptions: I'd like to limit my search to Shimano parts - that's what the bike has now and short of a few flats, it's never let me down. The shifter's are Shimano 105's (2007 vintage) and I'm going to try to keep those as they work and feel good to me. So, I'd like to focus on a new crankset, cassette, chain and derailure. Assuming ~$500'ish.
One other thought. When I put my bike on my stand, it seems like there is a fair amount of "drag" just spinning the pedals. I'm assuming this is old components but... really have no idea.

Any help out there?

Thanks,

In my humble opinion, 105 is the best bang for the buck groupset on the market (said the guy with a number of Dura-Ace, SRAM Red and SRAM Red eTap bikes). Why not purchase a new 105 group set - you can currently purchase one for $399 online - with a new bottom bracket for the poorly spinning crank you reported and be done with it?

Take it in for a tune up. They can tell you whats actually wrong and you can then replace what actually needs to be changed.

With the OP's budget he can definitely get 105 or even 6800 with some patience. However the rear hub might not be 11 speed compatible.

Note to the OP: current 105 derailleurs are not compatible with your older shifters. you would have to find pre 11 speed derailleurs if you wish to continue to use the original shifters.

As a few others have mentioned Shimano 105 5800 or Ultegra 6800 should be in your range and both are great groups. You won't be able to mix/match with your current setup, so really the only way to go is to buy the full group. Most places are clearing out the 6800 groups because of the release of the new 8000 group and you can probably get an entire Ultegra 6800 group for around $500. Just make sure you get the correct bottom bracket for that frame.
If you want to, you can mix and match the Ultegra 6800 and 105 5800 parts. There's a site someone linked at some point that shows where your best bang/buck was in mix and match, but I'm pretty sure it was this:
By the way, This is the mix I use on one of my bikes. Works great.. But the full 105 group was great as well.
105 Shifters
Ultegra Front Deraileur
Ultegra Chain Ring/Crank
105 Rear Deraileur
105 Brakes
Ultegra Chain
as far as cables go, whatever.

Thanks to all of you for your inputs. I'm off to the bike store at lunch today - they tend to be pricey so may have to figure out the install myself. I'm pretty good with tools and have a good work bench full of them. Thoughts on that whole idea?

With a little internet research, you should be able to easily install a groupset.

My opinion is, since your frame is older, it's likely a threaded Bottom Bracket so you should be able to do the install yourself. What I'd do is as eric1971 mentioned, youtube it, get it installed as best you can and then have the LBS iron out any 'kinks' you run into. Should save you some decent coin on labor costs.

Before you buy anything find out what you need. Possibly all you need is a new bottom bracket.

Also a whole 105 group is $400, so don't spend $500 on a partial group.

Really nothing can go wrong with cranks. Chainrings can wear .... they get what is called "shark-fin" instead of having a flat-topped triangle profile, and the chain will start slipping.... Not what you are describing.

The cassette will wear the same way ... but if your chain isn't slipping, it might be fine.

Your chain will stretch a little. If you maintain it all you will get 3-5000 miles from a chain.

The only thing that would make the cranks turn stiffly would be bottom-bracket problems. I don't know what kind of bottom bracket you have, but likely you would need to buy a cheap tool, spin out the old one, thoroughly clean the threads of the frame, and stick in a replacement. You can get the tool and BB for $50-$60 if you look around.

Pay the shop to diagnose.
Pay the internet for components.

Install what you can and pay the shop to install the rest.

The cheapest way to a working bike while getting expert advice and paying them for their knowledge.

Only one person has mentioned it but it's a game changer, so here's goes again.

Is your rear wheel 11 spd. compatible ?

Nothing else on the move to 11 spd. happens unless your rear wheel can take the cassette, so that's kind of the first thing to determine, if you are not planning on a new wheel.

I missed that in my earlier post! but yes! If your rear wheel isn't 11 speed compatible, then you're not going to be able to switch to an 11 speed setup unless you buy new wheels.

you can still go 11 speed with a 10 speed hub.
The new R8000 Cassette in 11x34 ratio will fit a 10 speed hub. Anything under 34 you will have to use a dedicated 11 speed rear hub.

There are other way to make it work but is more of a hack. (ie using 10 cogs with a 12T lock ring)
Otherwise EDCO monoblock cassettes will work, but the shifting performance is not the same as shimano.


Depending in your crank setup
At 34T You will will need a GS rear Derailleur. You might be able to get away with a SS if you use a Wolf link.

I had heard that, too, but according to the OP's budget, the 8000 Group is quite a bit out of it.

He does not have to go with R8000.
(Cant wait till shimano release R7000)

all you need is the cassette from R8000, if you want to run a pie pan you can use any of the 11 speed MTB cassette (36T and up) They will fit on a 10 speed rear hub. You can use any 9 speed MTB rear dearailleur with 11 speed STI shifter.

One Oh five 11s GS rear with a compact front crank should have no problem with 34 or 36T cassette.

Look around for the gottagottahavethenewestbest guys.
I have a friend who is semi gottagotta. He's running eTap.

Hence the DA 9000 "dump." They're out there.

A very lightly used DA 9000 group/wheels for $750, to include:
Bontrager RXL 2016 wheels
2 tubes with Conti GP4000SII 700x25's, almost no wear.
Compact 50/34 crank set and BB (English)
2nd set of new 50/34 rings. (price those things some time...)
Calipers
DA Cassette
STI's
FD
RD
and he threw in:
Xero Lite black on black wheels
10-sp Ultegra 11-28 cassette
2 tubes w/Michelin Dynamic tires (giveaways)

Sell the Xero Lite wheel/tire for $60 (kept the cassette, I run 10-sp on other bikes)
Trickle-down the groups through my other bikes (you can simply sell your old group)
Sell the bottom-rung group for $160
Had to buy a chain, $40

Net upgrade: $570 I reckon I did OK. Be creative. Think in net terms.

I'm a DA 7700 fan, and the 9000 works very much as light and crisp.

Sure it's an old bike. That's why I rarely come to this forum. :thumb:

https://www.pedalroom.com/p/1989-cen...r-26946_58.jpg

Yep, I'd do it again. Maybe for a steel bike the next time around. It's kind of the dark side for me, but hey, I ride my "old bikes" and there's nothing wrong with hanging new clothes on old bones.

great built RT.

Any problems fitting the rear wheel?
1989 Centurion should be a 126 spread.
I had a Centurion Lemans RS back in 89 loved it. If I can find an IRONMAN frame cheap I would add it to my stable.