Gangsta Tubeless
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Gangsta Tubeless
Came across this Tubeless Conversion on you tube.
I was wondering if it can be done on a conventional road rim.
Your Thoughts...
I was wondering if it can be done on a conventional road rim.
Your Thoughts...
#2
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My only concern would be that you have the tire bead wraped in a tube thereby increasing the dia of the bead. Could this bee too large for the space for the bead in the hook of the rim?
Maybe it's a case of working better on some rims that others?
Maybe it's a case of working better on some rims that others?
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I don't take advice from people with the image of Che Guevara on their shirt.
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Ahhh... Good point.
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Try it and see.
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#10
S*v* J*sus
I advise against such a ghetto setup.
The rim needs the right profile, e.g. bead shelf ridges and correct bead shelf diameter to hold the tire on.
Tire needs to be tubeless compatible, e.g. have a strong enough bead that it won't stretch and blow off.
The rim needs the right profile, e.g. bead shelf ridges and correct bead shelf diameter to hold the tire on.
Tire needs to be tubeless compatible, e.g. have a strong enough bead that it won't stretch and blow off.
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This is the rim profile of a Tubeless Ready rim made by the same manufacturer...
Can I build up the bead shelf on my rim using tape?
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Wider rims work better on "MacGyver Tubeless" mountain setups, and the same is likely true for a road setup.
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#17
S*v* J*sus
The gap between the bead shelf and bead hooks is too large. You need the bead to be captured from both above and below at the same time.
Also, you will never make inner bead shelf locking ridges by piling on more tape.
Also, you will never make inner bead shelf locking ridges by piling on more tape.
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I would absolutely recommend against trying this on a road bike with an old tube. If you want to try to convert a non-tubeless rim to tubeless, get something that's designed for it like a Stan's cross rim strip.
Speaking from experience, I have successfully converted Mavic Open Pro rims to tubeless using a Stan's strip, but it's a pain in the ass. I was doing this back in 2008 when tubeless was still a bit of a novelty and Shimano DA was the only game in town for tubeless specific rims. The Stan's strip is thicker than a standard tube, but as the rim profile isn't designed for installing tubeless tyres, getting them on the rim is a PITA. Once they are on, it works pretty well, but they weren't designed to run at road pressure. They were designed for lower pressure cross use, where if you're tyre completely de-pressurizes, you might end up eating some grass, or mud, or sand.
These days a cheap set of tubeless ready wheels can be bought for about $200 at performance bike (actually, not bad wheels, I use them as my daily "heavy" training wheels). Honestly, for road use, I would go that route instead of trying to convert standard clinchers.
Speaking from experience, I have successfully converted Mavic Open Pro rims to tubeless using a Stan's strip, but it's a pain in the ass. I was doing this back in 2008 when tubeless was still a bit of a novelty and Shimano DA was the only game in town for tubeless specific rims. The Stan's strip is thicker than a standard tube, but as the rim profile isn't designed for installing tubeless tyres, getting them on the rim is a PITA. Once they are on, it works pretty well, but they weren't designed to run at road pressure. They were designed for lower pressure cross use, where if you're tyre completely de-pressurizes, you might end up eating some grass, or mud, or sand.
These days a cheap set of tubeless ready wheels can be bought for about $200 at performance bike (actually, not bad wheels, I use them as my daily "heavy" training wheels). Honestly, for road use, I would go that route instead of trying to convert standard clinchers.
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I don't get it. Before considering this, I'd just use a tube with a removable valve core, inject some fluid in to it and not worry about some bull**** hack going wrong at an inopportune time.
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with non tubeless ready rims? What is the inner profile? My experience with low pressure cross conversions is that profile is very important, not all rims work reliably.
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I mean, this hack is already using 50%+ of the tube, so what is is really getting you? Maybe a slightly better ride quality at the expense of taking an unexpected digger? I'll pass.
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The trick there is finding tubes with removable valve cores, but yea, I'm kinda with you on this. The only thing I can see you'd get out of this is no chance of snake bite flats. I know they're rare on the road, but I've had it happen hitting a sharp edge on broken pavement.
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The trick there is finding tubes with removable valve cores, but yea, I'm kinda with you on this. The only thing I can see you'd get out of this is no chance of snake bite flats. I know they're rare on the road, but I've had it happen hitting a sharp edge on broken pavement.