Drive train cleaning and oil change question
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: SC
Posts: 193
Bikes: '13 Felt F85, Giant Revel 1 29er, '16 Giant AnyRoad 1
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 32 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Drive train cleaning and oil change question
I usually degrease wash and relube my chain about every 100 miles or so depending on how nasty it gets and how much gunk it picks up. But if I'm riding it on the trainer where it doesn't pick up road dirt and gunk how often should I clean it?
#2
Interocitor Command
I don't clean my chain on the trainer bike. No need. I may wipe it down from time to time, but no thorough cleaning regimen like I have with the outdoor bikes.
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 28,682
Bikes: 1990 Romic Reynolds 531 custom build, Merlin Works CR Ti custom build, super light Workswell 066 custom build
Mentioned: 107 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6556 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 58 Times
in
36 Posts
Huh? Clean a chain? After a couple or three rides? My time is worth a whole lot more than that...and, heck, I’m retired. What a complete waste of time and effort. Chains never need to be cleaned. Just relubing is all that is necessary. As for cleaning a trainer bike chain, that is one of the funniest things I have ever heard with regard to bike maintenance.
#4
Senior Member
Cleaning the chain every hundred miles is pretty excessive in my mind. I clean mine if really dirty, otherwise I just re-lube as needed.
I never clean my trainer chain but I will add a touch of oil if it's getting loud.
I never clean my trainer chain but I will add a touch of oil if it's getting loud.
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 15,024
Bikes: 2015 Workswell 066, 2017 Workswell 093, 2014 Dawes Sheila, 1983 Cannondale 500, 1984 Raleigh Olympian, 2007 Cannondale Rize 4, 2017 Fuji Sportif 1 LE
Mentioned: 143 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7383 Post(s)
Liked 3,017 Times
in
1,611 Posts
Speaking of wheels ... the frame is almost done, one of the wheels is up and running (as in, inflated and holding air,) and the other ... after hours of frustration I tore the tire off and found the rim tape was bunched up. With any luck the bike will be rideable Christmas day, so after work i will take a ride and tell you if Portnoy's Complaints are a worthwhile investment.

#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: TC, MN
Posts: 39,505
Bikes: R3 Disc, Haanjo
Mentioned: 353 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20789 Post(s)
Liked 9,429 Times
in
4,662 Posts
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Utah
Posts: 8,505
Bikes: Paletti,Pinarello Monviso,Duell Vienna,Giordana XL Super,Lemond Maillot Juane.& custom,PDG Paramount,Fuji Opus III,Davidson Impulse,Pashley Guv'nor,Evans,Fishlips,Y-Foil,Softride, Tetra Pro, CAAD8 Optimo,
Mentioned: 149 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2215 Post(s)
Liked 4,104 Times
in
1,527 Posts
Yeah, since you're asking I'm with the others. On the trainer maybe once a season. Even my outdoor bikes only get cleaned if they get nasty and that's only after a wet ride or during the winter rides. I'd be cleaning a chain every 3 to 4 days if I did it every 100 miles. Too lazy for that.
__________________
Steel is real...and comfy.
Steel is real...and comfy.
#8
Senior Member
I would bet dollars to donuts that if you dropped your trainer chain into some mineral spirits and did a good deep clean, then put a magnet down into the mineral spirits after pulling the chain out, you'd find tons of ferrous debris from chain wear. I can't prove that cleaning this out from time to time will in fact extend chain life, but it makes sense that it would, to some undetermined extent.
#9
Lover of Old Chrome Moly
Join Date: May 2011
Location: NW Minnesota
Posts: 2,949
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 143 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 23 Times
in
17 Posts
I don't clean my chain based on miles but on conditions. If the weather is dry and the roads in good condition, I can ride hundreds of miles with no more than an occasional touch of lube. If it's been sloppy wet, the roads gritty/dirty/unpaved, I will clean the chain in a manner appropriate to the amount of grime. The chain comes off the bike and goes in the mineral spirits as needed, which for me amounts to 2 or 3 times a summer for my road bike or once every few weeks during winter/spring slop for my mutt.
My trainer bike gets the once-over more or less annually, usually in the fall since I use the trainer mainly in the winter. This includes a chain cleaning and there is usually enough gunk that comes out of the chain that it is justified. I suppose the frequency of cleaning would depend on how much you use the trainer, the type of lubricant (I use WD40 Bike Dry), and your personal tolerance for gunk.
My trainer bike gets the once-over more or less annually, usually in the fall since I use the trainer mainly in the winter. This includes a chain cleaning and there is usually enough gunk that comes out of the chain that it is justified. I suppose the frequency of cleaning would depend on how much you use the trainer, the type of lubricant (I use WD40 Bike Dry), and your personal tolerance for gunk.
#10
Interocitor Command
I would bet dollars to donuts that if you dropped your trainer chain into some mineral spirits and did a good deep clean, then put a magnet down into the mineral spirits after pulling the chain out, you'd find tons of ferrous debris from chain wear. I can't prove that cleaning this out from time to time will in fact extend chain life, but it makes sense that it would, to some undetermined extent.

#11
Senior Member
I don't doubt it, but I don't log the same kind of miles/time on the bike when using a trainer vs. riding outdoors. According to my spreadsheet, since October 25th I've ridden for 403 minutes on the trainer. That's 6.7 hours, which is only a weeks worth of riding outdoors. 

#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 28,682
Bikes: 1990 Romic Reynolds 531 custom build, Merlin Works CR Ti custom build, super light Workswell 066 custom build
Mentioned: 107 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6556 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 58 Times
in
36 Posts
I would bet dollars to donuts that if you dropped your trainer chain into some mineral spirits and did a good deep clean, then put a magnet down into the mineral spirits after pulling the chain out, you'd find tons of ferrous debris from chain wear. I can't prove that cleaning this out from time to time will in fact extend chain life, but it makes sense that it would, to some undetermined extent.
Further, how can the ferrous debris cause significant wear on a steel chain? Their hardnesses are the same.
Clean can be it’s own reward, but not because of saving money. A quick wipe down and relube is all that is required. If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 28,682
Bikes: 1990 Romic Reynolds 531 custom build, Merlin Works CR Ti custom build, super light Workswell 066 custom build
Mentioned: 107 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6556 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 58 Times
in
36 Posts
Speaking of wheels ... the frame is almost done, one of the wheels is up and running (as in, inflated and holding air,) and the other ... after hours of frustration I tore the tire off and found the rim tape was bunched up. With any luck the bike will be rideable Christmas day, so after work i will take a ride and tell you if Portnoy's Complaints are a worthwhile investment. 


#14
Interocitor Command
You are not thinking this through to the end. What does even a really good chain cost? $40 or so. Suppose you extend its life 20% which is by no means assured. What does the mineral spirits cost you? Whst about the non-reusable Shinao pin or SRAM 11-speed master link?What about the “shop” expenses like paper towels? What about the societal/environmental cost of disposing of the solvent? What about the flammable solvent hazards. And as I said before, what about the value of your time?
Further, how can the ferrous debris cause significant wear on a steel chain? Their hardnesses are the same.
Clean can be it’s own reward, but not because of saving money. A quick wipe down and relube is all that is required. If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.
Further, how can the ferrous debris cause significant wear on a steel chain? Their hardnesses are the same.
Clean can be it’s own reward, but not because of saving money. A quick wipe down and relube is all that is required. If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.

#15
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Richmond VA area
Posts: 2,713
Bikes: '00 Koga Miyata Full Pro Oval Road bike.
Mentioned: 17 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 475 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times
in
6 Posts
Every 100 miles? That is crazy, I'd be cleaning my chain once a week at that rate, sometimes twice a week. I'd say devote that time to riding instead.
#16
Banned.
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 509
Bikes: The Good Book of bicycling
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 535 Post(s)
Liked 36 Times
in
29 Posts
if i had to choose between maintenance and riding, it is not even Close, no contest.
Let the bicycle Rot, decay and fall apart. Give me bicycle Riding or gets me couch potato cleaning and maintaining.
(and yes i have plenty of tools, and do repairs. please relax

#17
Me duelen las nalgas
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Texas
Posts: 13,471
Bikes: Centurion Ironman, Trek 5900, Univega Via Carisma, Globe Carmel
Mentioned: 197 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4528 Post(s)
Liked 2,745 Times
in
1,767 Posts
On an indoor trainer? Wax the chain. You'll never need to do anything again.
I've rotated between two identical waxed KMC Z72 chains on my road bike since July, swapping chains once a month (about every 400-500 miles) and dipping the "old" chain back in the crock pot of wax. Low maintenance, almost no gunk so when I need to handle the chain for flat repairs or just bump my leg against the drivetrain there's barely a mark -- pretty much like pencil graphite, just rubs off. The setup prep is different but once that's done it's very low maintenance.
Last month I wanted to add a couple of links to see if it eased shifting and relieved some drivetrain tension. I already had a chain of the length I wanted, previously stored with Tri-Flow. After a month I'm ready to switch back to wax. The conventionally oil lubed chain is a pain. Doesn't ride any better or quieter. I have to wipe it down after or before every ride, and avoid nudging it with my leg. And after a flat tire repair a couple of weeks ago I couldn't wipe off all the gunk with a shop rag I carry in my saddle bag. PITA. Now I need to degrease the chain rings and freewheel too before switching back to the waxed chains.
I've rotated between two identical waxed KMC Z72 chains on my road bike since July, swapping chains once a month (about every 400-500 miles) and dipping the "old" chain back in the crock pot of wax. Low maintenance, almost no gunk so when I need to handle the chain for flat repairs or just bump my leg against the drivetrain there's barely a mark -- pretty much like pencil graphite, just rubs off. The setup prep is different but once that's done it's very low maintenance.
Last month I wanted to add a couple of links to see if it eased shifting and relieved some drivetrain tension. I already had a chain of the length I wanted, previously stored with Tri-Flow. After a month I'm ready to switch back to wax. The conventionally oil lubed chain is a pain. Doesn't ride any better or quieter. I have to wipe it down after or before every ride, and avoid nudging it with my leg. And after a flat tire repair a couple of weeks ago I couldn't wipe off all the gunk with a shop rag I carry in my saddle bag. PITA. Now I need to degrease the chain rings and freewheel too before switching back to the waxed chains.
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 28,682
Bikes: 1990 Romic Reynolds 531 custom build, Merlin Works CR Ti custom build, super light Workswell 066 custom build
Mentioned: 107 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6556 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 58 Times
in
36 Posts
On an indoor trainer? Wax the chain. You'll never need to do anything again.
I've rotated between two identical waxed KMC Z72 chains on my road bike since July, swapping chains once a month (about every 400-500 miles) and dipping the "old" chain back in the crock pot of wax. Low maintenance, almost no gunk so when I need to handle the chain for flat repairs or just bump my leg against the drivetrain there's barely a mark -- pretty much like pencil graphite, just rubs off. The setup prep is different but once that's done it's very low maintenance.
Last month I wanted to add a couple of links to see if it eased shifting and relieved some drivetrain tension. I already had a chain of the length I wanted, previously stored with Tri-Flow. After a month I'm ready to switch back to wax. The conventionally oil lubed chain is a pain. Doesn't ride any better or quieter. I have to wipe it down after or before every ride, and avoid nudging it with my leg. And after a flat tire repair a couple of weeks ago I couldn't wipe off all the gunk with a shop rag I carry in my saddle bag. PITA. Now I need to degrease the chain rings and freewheel too before switching back to the waxed chains.
I've rotated between two identical waxed KMC Z72 chains on my road bike since July, swapping chains once a month (about every 400-500 miles) and dipping the "old" chain back in the crock pot of wax. Low maintenance, almost no gunk so when I need to handle the chain for flat repairs or just bump my leg against the drivetrain there's barely a mark -- pretty much like pencil graphite, just rubs off. The setup prep is different but once that's done it's very low maintenance.
Last month I wanted to add a couple of links to see if it eased shifting and relieved some drivetrain tension. I already had a chain of the length I wanted, previously stored with Tri-Flow. After a month I'm ready to switch back to wax. The conventionally oil lubed chain is a pain. Doesn't ride any better or quieter. I have to wipe it down after or before every ride, and avoid nudging it with my leg. And after a flat tire repair a couple of weeks ago I couldn't wipe off all the gunk with a shop rag I carry in my saddle bag. PITA. Now I need to degrease the chain rings and freewheel too before switching back to the waxed chains.
#19
Not actually Tmonk
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 12,599
Bikes: road, track, mtb
Mentioned: 140 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1514 Post(s)
Liked 1,845 Times
in
1,013 Posts
I switched to molten parrafin wax for that specific reason - because I was too lazy to clean the chain. But I'm also a neat freak.
As others have mentioned, cleaning the chain/drivetrain is hardly (if at all) necessary, so don't bother if you're doing it because you think you need to. If you just like having things clean and tidy you might want to consider wax. I don't hesitate to grab my chain for any reason on the side of the road and my hands don't get dirty.
As others have mentioned, cleaning the chain/drivetrain is hardly (if at all) necessary, so don't bother if you're doing it because you think you need to. If you just like having things clean and tidy you might want to consider wax. I don't hesitate to grab my chain for any reason on the side of the road and my hands don't get dirty.
__________________
"Your beauty is an aeroplane;
so high, my heart cannot bear the strain." -A.C. Jobim, Triste
"Your beauty is an aeroplane;
so high, my heart cannot bear the strain." -A.C. Jobim, Triste
#20
just another gosling
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Everett, WA
Posts: 19,205
Bikes: CoMo Speedster 2003, Trek 5200, CAAD 9, Fred 2004
Mentioned: 114 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3735 Post(s)
Liked 1,738 Times
in
1,268 Posts
Never.
__________________
Results matter
Results matter
#21
Senior Member
Out in the real world, I wipe down my chain after every ride and tend to clean/re-oil about every 200 miles or so. That seems to have been a good balance between chain/cassette wear and time wasting.
Over the winter, on the indoor trainer I don't wipe my chain down at all, as very few rain or sand storms in my basement, and I clean/re-oil once over the winter, maybe twice if I think the chain got noisy - so that works out to about 400 - 600 miles of Zwifting per relube.
As far as I can tell that seems to give me pretty long chain/cassette life, which is how I judge over the years - I doubt I could even tell the difference in added resistance between and chain that needs lubing and one that is perfectly lubed with some miracle oil.
Over the winter, on the indoor trainer I don't wipe my chain down at all, as very few rain or sand storms in my basement, and I clean/re-oil once over the winter, maybe twice if I think the chain got noisy - so that works out to about 400 - 600 miles of Zwifting per relube.
As far as I can tell that seems to give me pretty long chain/cassette life, which is how I judge over the years - I doubt I could even tell the difference in added resistance between and chain that needs lubing and one that is perfectly lubed with some miracle oil.
#23
Interocitor Command
#24
Senior Member
I'm 3 months into trainerroad high volume base plans and REALLY need to degrease and lube my chain. Since I'm ERG and basically never change gears I am just a bit too lazy, but it is super noticeable whenever I zwift or something.
#25
Advocatus Diaboli
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Wherever I am
Posts: 8,415
Bikes: Merlin Cyrene, Nashbar steel CX
Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4596 Post(s)
Liked 1,454 Times
in
943 Posts
I anticipate that ERG mode is going to halve the expected lifespan of a given cassette (or at least one of its rings), because of this reason, ie. chain sitting on the same gear for the entire workout or time period..