My bailout gear needs a bailout gear. Sigh.
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Tell that to all the sprinters in the gruppeto behind the peloton when the grand tours get into the serious mountain stages. They've got bulging quads but it doesn't seem to help them in the long run. They do quite well on climbing when the entire stage is not climbing. So there are a lot of if's and's and such to discuss.
At my age, I don't want to get stronger legs. That might blow out my otherwise aging knee joints in which cartiledge and other stuff simply wears out over the years. Chondroitin glucosamine and cortisone injections not withstanding. Lower gearing lets me spin up hills with little impact to my knees. I can't even say I've had sore knees since I really started keeping to the high cadence thing. If you are the one of the old guy exceptions that can still do it. Good for you. But not all of us can. If you are a young guy like I was years ago, I too was mashing out pretty respectable speeds at low cadence. We didn't have the hills where I lived when younger, but I could accelerate pretty good then in a 53F14R even from a dead stop. But I sure can't do that now. Nor do I want to.
80 rpm a 34 front and 34 back are 6.26 mph. Since becoming committed to the concept of spinning, I'm climbing hills at 90 rpm or better. I wish I had that 34F 34R for the metric century I just did. My cadence did get down to around 60 rpm on the very short segment of 12% grade with my 36F 32R combo which gave me just under 6 mph and yes at that point the bike starts to loose stability. But once over that, the remaining 6% grade again was a breeze when I got my cadence back up to over 80 rpm and was able to even shift back to the big 52 on the front and several smaller cogs on the back.
PS.... don't take this as a personal attack. It's just you put the best comments out there to allow me to make my side of the equation. I'm up for a beer anytime if you care to keep it a friendly disagreement. Friends that agree with me all the time are boring. Not fun if you can't argue about something.
At my age, I don't want to get stronger legs. That might blow out my otherwise aging knee joints in which cartiledge and other stuff simply wears out over the years. Chondroitin glucosamine and cortisone injections not withstanding. Lower gearing lets me spin up hills with little impact to my knees. I can't even say I've had sore knees since I really started keeping to the high cadence thing. If you are the one of the old guy exceptions that can still do it. Good for you. But not all of us can. If you are a young guy like I was years ago, I too was mashing out pretty respectable speeds at low cadence. We didn't have the hills where I lived when younger, but I could accelerate pretty good then in a 53F14R even from a dead stop. But I sure can't do that now. Nor do I want to.
80 rpm a 34 front and 34 back are 6.26 mph. Since becoming committed to the concept of spinning, I'm climbing hills at 90 rpm or better. I wish I had that 34F 34R for the metric century I just did. My cadence did get down to around 60 rpm on the very short segment of 12% grade with my 36F 32R combo which gave me just under 6 mph and yes at that point the bike starts to loose stability. But once over that, the remaining 6% grade again was a breeze when I got my cadence back up to over 80 rpm and was able to even shift back to the big 52 on the front and several smaller cogs on the back.
PS.... don't take this as a personal attack. It's just you put the best comments out there to allow me to make my side of the equation. I'm up for a beer anytime if you care to keep it a friendly disagreement. Friends that agree with me all the time are boring. Not fun if you can't argue about something.
Gears are like cogs in your gearbox in your car... they like to spin at a speed where your RPM is not to high, not to low, just right. I can reach 40miles per hour in 2nd and 60 in 3rd but your cars going to like you more if you're doing 40 in 3rd and 60 in 4th and its going to last you longer if you do that also. The same applies to your body. Choose the path of least resistance and your body will last you decades longer. Treat it like a pile of crap and you might burn it out by 60.
I see people who either blow up pushing a gear that is too hard, needlessly (especially among he elderly) push their heart into the red zone of anaerobic training, or spin themselves into a frenzy because of Chris Froome thinking spinning is the new black. It's none of these things. The pathway to the best gear ratio is the path of least resistance.
Last edited by 1500SLR; 05-16-18 at 07:36 PM.
#77
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What do you say? To be honest cadence and age are both personal things... High cadence is the new black... My own thing is that cadence isn't really a thing... strength is a personal thing though... my cadence will be different to yours because my muscle fibres in my legs and my strength will be different to yours. I spin at a different cadence to my brother but my brother is 6"2 and I'm 5"10, our leg sizes/muscle mass and fibres are all different. I have a fairly simple thing with cadence... If my cadence is too slow, it's uncomfortable and I'm losing speed I choose an easier gear until the point where my speed (miles/kilometres) is neutral or going forward again. If I'm really pushing myself on a flat or descent I'll find the next hardest gear and spin that out to where I've either reached the point of ease with that gear or I'm free spinning and then I'll go up another gear if I'm free spinning and go through the process again.
Gears are like cogs in your gearbox in your car... they like to spin at a speed where your RPM is not to high, not to low, just right. I can reach 40miles per hour in 2nd and 60 in 3rd but your cars going to like you more if you're doing 40 in 3rd and 60 in 4th and its going to last you longer if you do that also. The same applies to your body. Choose the path of least resistance and your body will last you decades longer. Treat it like a pile of crap and you might burn it out by 60.
Gears are like cogs in your gearbox in your car... they like to spin at a speed where your RPM is not to high, not to low, just right. I can reach 40miles per hour in 2nd and 60 in 3rd but your cars going to like you more if you're doing 40 in 3rd and 60 in 4th and its going to last you longer if you do that also. The same applies to your body. Choose the path of least resistance and your body will last you decades longer. Treat it like a pile of crap and you might burn it out by 60.
I re-started my riding when life slowed down for me in my mid 50's and had more time and poor health as encouragement. Cadences of 50 and 60 wasn't working well for me, so despite how weird, tiring and feeling like I was going nowhere, I started forcing myself to spin high. For me, everything works better that way. I'm not certain if 90 RPM is something you think is going to wear me out quick. It's not, I look down sometimes while on flats and incredulously see me churning out 110 with no issue. It's my hope that my muscles will get used to putting out more power at those speeds so I can use that 12 and 11 cog for more than slight negative grades. Maybe even go back to my 53/39 chainwheels.
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It's a personal body thing,... if people say you must spin a 90, 100, 110, or whatever. Walk away because they don't understand. The analogy is your body are like the pistons in a car in order to get the most out of your car you don't rev the crap out of it, nor do you make it labor unnecessarily in a gear that's too low. Cadence comes down to the conditions. If you find 90rpm while going up hill comfortable then use it. If someone has he muscle fibres and strength to push a gear at 60rpm and it work for them, that's good also.
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But engines are different. The piston engines in the airplanes I used to fly are redline at the 2000 or so rpm my automobile engine cruises at. The aircraft engine would probably come apart at the 7000 rpm my auto hits when passing traffic on a two lane road. I do think I understand the analogy of an engine and my body. I understand that my body can get used to higher rpms without destroying itself as low rpm in too high a gear will do to a car. Like car engines and aircraft engines, my body can operate near redline for almost indefinitely if geared appropriately. Pro tour riders do it regularly. How else could they keep a 30 mph average pace for the distances they travel.
I've got no particular issue with what works for you. Just don't say it's the only way. High cadence is not new stuff.
I've got no particular issue with what works for you. Just don't say it's the only way. High cadence is not new stuff.
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Anybody that can spin 100+ rpm on the flats all day long and still hanging in there at 39 rpm in their current lowest gear will damn sure be able to climb whatever is in front of them once they get the right gearing. You did the right thing going with a roadlink and bigger cassette. That way you can maintain your current shifters, chainrings, and derailleur. Your current setup 50/34 with 11/32 gives you a low gear of 29 inches per revolution of the cranks. Not sure what cassette you ordered, but a 11/40 would give you 23". A 11/46 20". The low 20s will generally do the trick. Down around 17 or 18 gear inches I usually break traction with the rear wheel or pull a wheelie and flip over backwards. With that Domane you should be able to fly down the other side. I only get to climb a hill once a year when we have a little organized ride around the bay. They block off a couple of lanes of the harbor bridge and let us ride up over it. It's a pretty steep grade if you're not used to riding in the hills. It is normally closed to bicycle traffic so you can't go out and train on it. Everything else around here is as flat as a pancake. Let us know how it works out.
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But engines are different. The piston engines in the airplanes I used to fly are redline at the 2000 or so rpm my automobile engine cruises at. The aircraft engine would probably come apart at the 7000 rpm my auto hits when passing traffic on a two lane road. I do think I understand the analogy of an engine and my body. I understand that my body can get used to higher rpms without destroying itself as low rpm in too high a gear will do to a car. Like car engines and aircraft engines, my body can operate near redline for almost indefinitely if geared appropriately. Pro tour riders do it regularly. How else could they keep a 30 mph average pace for the distances they travel.
I've got no particular issue with what works for you. Just don't say it's the only way. High cadence is not new stuff.
I've got no particular issue with what works for you. Just don't say it's the only way. High cadence is not new stuff.
One of the major underlying things that exercise leads to is a synrom called "athletes heart" leading to the enlargement of your heart. The curly question comes when we talk to heart specialists about the correlations that we run into when we talk about other conditions leading to big hearts and one of the more common incidences of problems of people with enlarged hearts (in non-athletic settings) is more heart rhythm problems. As such there has been some concern that this issue may also be more a concern that is true for athletes. The strongest evidence that supports this is in the heart rhythm problem called “atrial fibrillation.” Atrial fibrillation (AF) is the most common heart rhythm disorder in people of middle-age and older people. Instead of the normal regular conduction of electrical signals through the heart, AF leads to the random firing of electrical signals from the upper chambers of the heart (the atria) and this causes an irregular heartbeat. In a patient with AF their heartbeat is often more rapid than would normally be appropriate for the level of activity.What's more worrying is that in some cases the patients are completely unaware that they have AF, whereas other patients are greatly troubled by an uncomfortable sense of an irregular heart rhythm, fatigue and breathlessness. While AF is not life threatening in itself, with increased duress on your body it may well be. There are several cases in recent history of cyclists simply dropping dead as a result of over exertion. This is why I say "stay out of the red zone" it is unnecessary. With proper training and knowledge of your V02 max you should never really have to go there unless you are training for or racing in a serious event which is the 1% of cases.
As to high cadence being the new black, lots of people have been moving towards high cadence work due to people such as Chris Froome using it in recent years. Other guys such as Cadel Evans used a high cadence in lots of incidents due in particular to Evans mountain biking background. I'm saying that just because it works for them, it doesn't mean that it will work for you, or that you should do it.
I simply look down at my computer, and ask myself the case of whether this gear is making me stay at a steady speed, go slower, or faster, in most instances where we are looking at maintaining a steady pace I find the path of least resistance is the best answer for me. I am not you however.
Last edited by 1500SLR; 05-17-18 at 11:22 PM.
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But, since you did ... at 340 W, most of the people on this forum probably would be at or above their VO2max which, apparently, is to be avoided at all cost. Also, 340 W only gets you to 5 mph, so you really need to punch it up to about 400 W (6 mph) to avoid stability concerns. Yet, "a 53-39 11-28 is enough to get up hill gradients at around 10 to 15% depending how sustained the incline is."
Go figure ...
Last edited by tomato coupe; 05-17-18 at 12:27 PM.
#83
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The reality is, there is no free lunch. No matter what gear you are in, the power to do Xmph on Y% slope is the same. Only the cadence varies. Its not like you magically gain some free speed in a higher gear. Arguing you should not have low gears is kind of silly as no one forces you to ride the lowest gear. Its just there is you need it.
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So I've moved to a new area, and even the hills here have hills. The new place sits in the middle of a road with 400' hills at each end, short steep hills...and after that is really just more hills....
I should look into one of those wolftooth roadlinks and a MTB 11-40 cassette. My Domane has the medium cage derailleur, so really all I'd need is the roadlink, the new cassette, and a new chain.
My question is: has anyone else done this? How did it work? What cassette did you use? Is there anything I should look out for? ... )
I should look into one of those wolftooth roadlinks and a MTB 11-40 cassette. My Domane has the medium cage derailleur, so really all I'd need is the roadlink, the new cassette, and a new chain.
My question is: has anyone else done this? How did it work? What cassette did you use? Is there anything I should look out for? ... )
roadlink with 11-40t cassette and extra long B screw
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As to high cadence being the new black, lots of people have been moving towards high cadence work due to people such as Chris Froome using it in recent years. Other guys such as Cadel Evans used a high cadence in lots of incidents due in particular to Evans mountain biking background. I'm saying that just because it works for them, it doesn't mean that it will work for you, or that you should do it.
My exception with regard to the OP's issue is that simply getting stronger is not the only answer. With out the gears to climb with in the OP's currently described physical condition, then getting stronger will involve high HR at anaerobic levels and possibly sore knees. The gears will let the OP manage the hills and keep HR where it needs to be for the part of the workout plan.
To much focus on what your HR is at any one moment while you are riding is detrimental to your training IMO. It might cause you not to perform at levels needed to increase performance. IMO, properly you should look at your average HR over specific segments of your ride and evaluate them. Usually I do that after the ride.
At 80 to 90 rpm,I'm nowhere near anaerobic when I have the gears I want. And as for HIGH cadence, well that's 120 to 130.
#86
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So I got the roadlink and new cassette on, and then had to run some errands. Stopped by the LBS to chat with the mech about chain length, etc, and he had some recommendations, etc. He's a local guy and a rider, and he asked me where I lived. When I told him, he basically went pale and said "oh, dude, I'm sorry." He told me the the two hills at each end of my road are 16% and 17%, respectively. And you wonder why it was killing me to hit them cold?
Anyway, I'm gonna get the chain on tonight and take it out tomorrow and see how it goes. (Or maybe tonight if all goes well.)
And yeah, I bought something for the advice and information.
Anyway, I'm gonna get the chain on tonight and take it out tomorrow and see how it goes. (Or maybe tonight if all goes well.)
And yeah, I bought something for the advice and information.
Last edited by Wheever; 05-17-18 at 04:39 PM.
#87
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Most excellent! How long did you have to make your chain? I'm conflicted between just ignoring the big ring entirely for the duration, or dealing with a lot of slop small-small. Can you mange big-big without too much slop?
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Bought an 11 speed 114 link chain with a master link and then removed two links before install. My chainrings are 28/44. Used the big cog/big chainring/bypass rear derailleur method for sizing chain. Have had no problem with slop so far.
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Re increasing climbing cadence:
I did a little experiment this evening on my resistance rollers. I don't have power, so I use speed as an analogue. My first ventilation threshold (VT1 )is quite reliably at a 118 HR. (I know, but you'll get there too someday if you're lucky). I frequently do an hour at VT1, usually trying to cover as many miles as comfortably possible at that HR. A speed of ~18.5 mph at 118 HR and ~86 cadence is normal for me. This evening I decided that actually that was stupid and instead of plugging along at a convenient cadence, I should so a little work and increase the cadence while still holding VT1. I have a pretty good spin and can usually spin at 115 for long periods on my rollers, but in very low gears.
That's background. This evening I rode at a steady 118 HR but in a lower gear than usual, so that I was spinning mostly 101-104. Here's the kicker: my speed dropped from 18.5 to 16.3. Since these rollers have fluid resistance, that's a big drop in power for the same effort. Of course more talented and younger people may not see that large a drop, or maybe they would, I don't know. However, at the end of the hour, my legs were fresher than if I'd pedaled at 85 cadence and the same HR. Whether that bit of fresher is worth the loss of speed would be a judgement call.
A side note: I noticed that my hams were not that happy with producing power at this higher cadence, so I raised my saddle 1/8". Fixed it. But after raising it, I was bouncing a bit, not on the saddle, rather my front wheel was bouncing up on the roller when my knees came to the top of the stroke. I mostly ignored it and in 1/2 hour my coordination naturally modified itself so that bounce went completely away.
I'll try doing this little workout every week and see if I get any better. I kinda doubt it, but it's worth trying.
I did a little experiment this evening on my resistance rollers. I don't have power, so I use speed as an analogue. My first ventilation threshold (VT1 )is quite reliably at a 118 HR. (I know, but you'll get there too someday if you're lucky). I frequently do an hour at VT1, usually trying to cover as many miles as comfortably possible at that HR. A speed of ~18.5 mph at 118 HR and ~86 cadence is normal for me. This evening I decided that actually that was stupid and instead of plugging along at a convenient cadence, I should so a little work and increase the cadence while still holding VT1. I have a pretty good spin and can usually spin at 115 for long periods on my rollers, but in very low gears.
That's background. This evening I rode at a steady 118 HR but in a lower gear than usual, so that I was spinning mostly 101-104. Here's the kicker: my speed dropped from 18.5 to 16.3. Since these rollers have fluid resistance, that's a big drop in power for the same effort. Of course more talented and younger people may not see that large a drop, or maybe they would, I don't know. However, at the end of the hour, my legs were fresher than if I'd pedaled at 85 cadence and the same HR. Whether that bit of fresher is worth the loss of speed would be a judgement call.
A side note: I noticed that my hams were not that happy with producing power at this higher cadence, so I raised my saddle 1/8". Fixed it. But after raising it, I was bouncing a bit, not on the saddle, rather my front wheel was bouncing up on the roller when my knees came to the top of the stroke. I mostly ignored it and in 1/2 hour my coordination naturally modified itself so that bounce went completely away.
I'll try doing this little workout every week and see if I get any better. I kinda doubt it, but it's worth trying.
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I guess I'm thinking this way, too.
Having got used to the 11/32, now looking at an 11/34.
Partly to save weight (XTR w/ titanium), but have three events coming up w/ over 15k climbing,
& especially like how it makes for more time in the big ring- less double shifting.
Having got used to the 11/32, now looking at an 11/34.
Partly to save weight (XTR w/ titanium), but have three events coming up w/ over 15k climbing,
& especially like how it makes for more time in the big ring- less double shifting.
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Re increasing climbing cadence:
I did a little experiment this evening on my resistance rollers. I don't have power, so I use speed as an analogue. My first ventilation threshold (VT1 )is quite reliably at a 118 HR. (I know, but you'll get there too someday if you're lucky). I frequently do an hour at VT1, usually trying to cover as many miles as comfortably possible at that HR. A speed of ~18.5 mph at 118 HR and ~86 cadence is normal for me. This evening I decided that actually that was stupid and instead of plugging along at a convenient cadence, I should so a little work and increase the cadence while still holding VT1. I have a pretty good spin and can usually spin at 115 for long periods on my rollers, but in very low gears.
That's background. This evening I rode at a steady 118 HR but in a lower gear than usual, so that I was spinning mostly 101-104. Here's the kicker: my speed dropped from 18.5 to 16.3. Since these rollers have fluid resistance, that's a big drop in power for the same effort. Of course more talented and younger people may not see that large a drop, or maybe they would, I don't know. However, at the end of the hour, my legs were fresher than if I'd pedaled at 85 cadence and the same HR. Whether that bit of fresher is worth the loss of speed would be a judgement call.
A side note: I noticed that my hams were not that happy with producing power at this higher cadence, so I raised my saddle 1/8". Fixed it. But after raising it, I was bouncing a bit, not on the saddle, rather my front wheel was bouncing up on the roller when my knees came to the top of the stroke. I mostly ignored it and in 1/2 hour my coordination naturally modified itself so that bounce went completely away.
I'll try doing this little workout every week and see if I get any better. I kinda doubt it, but it's worth trying.
I did a little experiment this evening on my resistance rollers. I don't have power, so I use speed as an analogue. My first ventilation threshold (VT1 )is quite reliably at a 118 HR. (I know, but you'll get there too someday if you're lucky). I frequently do an hour at VT1, usually trying to cover as many miles as comfortably possible at that HR. A speed of ~18.5 mph at 118 HR and ~86 cadence is normal for me. This evening I decided that actually that was stupid and instead of plugging along at a convenient cadence, I should so a little work and increase the cadence while still holding VT1. I have a pretty good spin and can usually spin at 115 for long periods on my rollers, but in very low gears.
That's background. This evening I rode at a steady 118 HR but in a lower gear than usual, so that I was spinning mostly 101-104. Here's the kicker: my speed dropped from 18.5 to 16.3. Since these rollers have fluid resistance, that's a big drop in power for the same effort. Of course more talented and younger people may not see that large a drop, or maybe they would, I don't know. However, at the end of the hour, my legs were fresher than if I'd pedaled at 85 cadence and the same HR. Whether that bit of fresher is worth the loss of speed would be a judgement call.
A side note: I noticed that my hams were not that happy with producing power at this higher cadence, so I raised my saddle 1/8". Fixed it. But after raising it, I was bouncing a bit, not on the saddle, rather my front wheel was bouncing up on the roller when my knees came to the top of the stroke. I mostly ignored it and in 1/2 hour my coordination naturally modified itself so that bounce went completely away.
I'll try doing this little workout every week and see if I get any better. I kinda doubt it, but it's worth trying.
I know that when climbing I do better and feel more comfortable at a cadence lower than what I would use on the flat. Downhill is an even faster cadence.
I don't know why it is like that but it certainly is for me.
#92
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From a resistance point of view, most trainers are a lot like climbing, because you cant free wheel, without loosing all your speed.
#93
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So I got the roadlink and new cassette on, and then had to run some errands. Stopped by the LBS to chat with the mech about chain length, etc, and he had some recommendations, etc. He's a local guy and a rider, and he asked me where I lived. When I told him, he basically went pale and said "oh, dude, I'm sorry." He told me the the two hills at each end of my road are 16% and 17%, respectively. And you wonder why it was killing me to hit them cold?
Anyway, I'm gonna get the chain on tonight and take it out tomorrow and see how it goes. (Or maybe tonight if all goes well.)
And yeah, I bought something for the advice and information.
Anyway, I'm gonna get the chain on tonight and take it out tomorrow and see how it goes. (Or maybe tonight if all goes well.)
And yeah, I bought something for the advice and information.
There's no way I'd start my rides up a hill like that cold.
If it were me, 10 minutes on the rollers to start each ride warm would become the norm. Or walking.
#94
Senior Member
Re increasing climbing cadence:
... This evening I rode at a steady 118 HR but in a lower gear than usual, so that I was spinning mostly 101-104. Here's the kicker: my speed dropped from 18.5 to 16.3. Since these rollers have fluid resistance, that's a big drop in power for the same effort. Of course more talented and younger people may not see that large a drop, or maybe they would, I don't know. However, at the end of the hour, my legs were fresher than if I'd pedaled at 85 cadence and the same HR. Whether that bit of fresher is worth the loss of speed would be a judgement call.
... This evening I rode at a steady 118 HR but in a lower gear than usual, so that I was spinning mostly 101-104. Here's the kicker: my speed dropped from 18.5 to 16.3. Since these rollers have fluid resistance, that's a big drop in power for the same effort. Of course more talented and younger people may not see that large a drop, or maybe they would, I don't know. However, at the end of the hour, my legs were fresher than if I'd pedaled at 85 cadence and the same HR. Whether that bit of fresher is worth the loss of speed would be a judgement call.
#95
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It may be the 40 is overkill. We'll see today.
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So I got the roadlink and new cassette on, and then had to run some errands. Stopped by the LBS to chat with the mech about chain length, etc, and he had some recommendations, etc. He's a local guy and a rider, and he asked me where I lived. When I told him, he basically went pale and said "oh, dude, I'm sorry." He told me the the two hills at each end of my road are 16% and 17%, respectively.
"A 53-39 11-28 is enough to get up hill gradients at around 10 to 15% depending how sustained the incline is."
"A 53-39 12-29 is enough to get up hill gradients at around 16 to 17% depending how sustained the incline is."
#97
Pizzaiolo Americano
Ouch, that's brutal. Good news though -- I consulted with the HTFU committee and they are allowing for some easier gearing in this situation:
"A 53-39 11-28 is enough to get up hill gradients at around 10 to 15% depending how sustained the incline is."
"A 53-39 12-29 is enough to get up hill gradients at around 16 to 17% depending how sustained the incline is."
"A 53-39 11-28 is enough to get up hill gradients at around 10 to 15% depending how sustained the incline is."
"A 53-39 12-29 is enough to get up hill gradients at around 16 to 17% depending how sustained the incline is."
#98
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Ouch, that's brutal. Good news though -- I consulted with the HTFU committee and they are allowing for some easier gearing in this situation:
"A 53-39 11-28 is enough to get up hill gradients at around 10 to 15% depending how sustained the incline is."
"A 53-39 12-29 is enough to get up hill gradients at around 16 to 17% depending how sustained the incline is."
"A 53-39 11-28 is enough to get up hill gradients at around 10 to 15% depending how sustained the incline is."
"A 53-39 12-29 is enough to get up hill gradients at around 16 to 17% depending how sustained the incline is."
Oh c'mon, you know that the HTFU committee will only accept a fixie running 100/10, and only that if you can put down the 1000 watts at 40 rpm on a 30% grade.
#99
just another gosling
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I am not sure if you can simulate the best climbing cadence on a trainer.
I know that when climbing I do better and feel more comfortable at a cadence lower than what I would use on the flat. Downhill is an even faster cadence.
I don't know why it is like that but it certainly is for me.
I know that when climbing I do better and feel more comfortable at a cadence lower than what I would use on the flat. Downhill is an even faster cadence.
I don't know why it is like that but it certainly is for me.
I encourage anyone interested in this to repeat my experiment on their own trainer or resistance rollers. I'm fairly sure that the aerobic cost of increased cadence varies from cyclist to cyclist. If I'm right about that, one can assess one's own ability to climb at a higher cadence by such experiments. It would be interesting use this method to assess one's own varying aerobic cost of increased cadence in varying cadence regions, 70 to 85 for instance, etc..
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#100
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Well HTFU groups exist for all the different disciplines. But yeah I was wondering about the fixie thing too, but then realized this is the road bike subforum. And don't get me started on those Ebikers that can't tolerate any statement that has the remotest implied negative to their chosen vehicle of choice... a motorbike <grin>. They seem to find such comments no matter where you are even when on a forum about firewall software for a computer.
As for the this whole mess of people thinking you have to have a 11-28 to give you proper road bike qualities and get yourself into the proper physical condition to use them. BULL. I think those beliefs stem from the days when we talked about a 12-25 as a road cassette and a 14-34 as a mountain cassette. But those where 5 and 6 speed groups then due to the technology of the day and riding technique had to adapt. With eleven speed groups and now some 12 on road bikes things are much different. So some old thinking has to go away.
Still not sure why high cadence is thought of as new or unhealthy by some. Even the old people that ran the local schwinn cycling shop in my town back in the 60's told me not to mash. But it took me 40 years before I listened and understood why. I'm also wondering if the term spinning is getting contorted to imply the training discipline of those extreme types on stationary spin cycles in the gym.
As for the this whole mess of people thinking you have to have a 11-28 to give you proper road bike qualities and get yourself into the proper physical condition to use them. BULL. I think those beliefs stem from the days when we talked about a 12-25 as a road cassette and a 14-34 as a mountain cassette. But those where 5 and 6 speed groups then due to the technology of the day and riding technique had to adapt. With eleven speed groups and now some 12 on road bikes things are much different. So some old thinking has to go away.
Still not sure why high cadence is thought of as new or unhealthy by some. Even the old people that ran the local schwinn cycling shop in my town back in the 60's told me not to mash. But it took me 40 years before I listened and understood why. I'm also wondering if the term spinning is getting contorted to imply the training discipline of those extreme types on stationary spin cycles in the gym.