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Which bike for a hilly ride?

Road Cycling ďIt is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.Ē -- Ernest Hemingway

Which bike for a hilly ride?

Old 06-09-18, 09:07 AM
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355Mono
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Which bike for a hilly ride?

My 18lb Kestrel RT 1000SL, with 52/36 and 11/28, 25 tires, or 25lb Fuji Tread with 50/34 and 12/32, 32 smooth tires. 35 miles for Michigan Mountain Mayhem. Obviously, we don't have real mountains here but it's a hilly road ride. I'm 63, 5'4", 145 lbs. Did the Horsey Hundred (63 miles), in Kentucky last weekend. This will be less miles, steeper climbs. I try to spin up longer climbs, but often stand on short, steep climbs. Never did this ride, which is why I'm doing the short route. I workout in hills locally, but had a slow start with our cold spring. If it rains, I will have to decide between IPA's or Lagers!
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Old 06-09-18, 09:20 AM
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Take the lightest bike you got.

... and IPAs, of course.
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Old 06-09-18, 09:37 AM
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The lightest sounds the most logical because you will be dragging less weight up the hills and with the taller gears you'll be cruising easier coming down them.
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Old 06-09-18, 09:43 AM
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Which bike



Take the bike you love to ride. Put her thru her paces. Enjoy the hell out of it. Meet some great people. Make fun of the obvious idiot. On a ride, I choose the coldest beer, no matter what. The closest comes second. Donít overthink it. Itís only a bike ride....

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Old 06-09-18, 09:43 AM
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Are both bikes the same amount of gears and both Shimano or Sram. If so, you can pretty easily put the cassette from the Fuji on to the Kestrel. That will give you so.e insurance in gearing and also the lighter bike.
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Old 06-09-18, 09:50 AM
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the kestrel.
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Old 06-09-18, 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by rosefarts View Post
Are both bikes the same amount of gears and both Shimano or Sram. If so, you can pretty easily put the cassette from the Fuji on to the Kestrel. That will give you so.e insurance in gearing and also the lighter bike.
If this was possible on both a competence and campatibility standpoint, would you have asked the question in the OP?
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Old 06-09-18, 11:20 AM
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rosefarts
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Originally Posted by jitteringjr View Post


If this was possible on both a competence and campatibility standpoint, would you have asked the question in the OP?
Many people people simply don't know. He doesn't need to be competent, he needs like $10. It's worth checking out.
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Old 06-09-18, 12:51 PM
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Kestrel 10, Di2 Ultegra, Fuji 11, 105's. I may do a side by side test on a local long, steep hill, for fun. Of course the first time up will feel the best. Yes, it's just a bike ride, and a relatively short one at that. Just a weight vs gearing question. Not worth changing the cassette to me. Luckily I enjoy both rides, one being comfy on lousy surfaces, the other for long rides. That's why I got a fit on both bikes.
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Old 06-09-18, 01:37 PM
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If you want to work hard and finish quickly, take the lighter bike. Depending on your fitness and the grades you encounter, you might not even feel the need for the easier gearing. But if you just want to have a good time, take the one with the easier gearing.
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Old 06-09-18, 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by BillyD View Post
Take the lightest bike you got.

... and IPAs, of course.
Correct. Double IPAs if available.
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Old 06-09-18, 04:31 PM
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Assuming you are doing a loop, you are almost always better of on the most aero bike, aero clothes ect. Tour magazine have crunched the numbers several times and that is what it comes to. Low weight is mostly use full if you need to hang on to a breakout/acceleration, in a race
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Old 06-09-18, 04:36 PM
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Are you able to climb the grades with 36/28 gearing? If so, then great the Kestrel works. If not, then I would always prioritize proper gearing over 7# of bike weight.
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Old 06-09-18, 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by mstateglfr View Post
Are you able to climb the grades with 36/28 gearing? If so, then great the Kestrel works. If not, then I would always prioritize proper gearing over 7# of bike weight.
Proper gearing is even more important than low bike weight and aero gains.
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Old 06-09-18, 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Racing Dan View Post
Low weight is mostly useful if you need to hang on to a breakout/acceleration, in a race
That conforms to my observations/experience. I'd say that when riding (i.e., aside from lifting and manhandling the bike), the lighter weight isn't really appreciable except when accelerating or attacking a hill.
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Old 06-09-18, 05:55 PM
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SInce I won't be going for speed, I might go for the heavier bike, and the lighter beer. I'm losing my taste for hoppy IPA's. Reds, and local lagers are my thing lately. Not to mention Traverse City Whiskey (that they can't call bourbon). It's been edging out my Maker's Mark, where I can get it. Raining today. Tomorrow the comparison test. I'll report my unscientific findings for all who are not going to be able to sleep, waiting for my results.
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Old 06-10-18, 07:24 PM
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6 long climbs in the saddle tell me gearing trumps overall weight, when speed isn't a factor. Happily I felt good on both bikes. I'm leaning towards the heavier, better geared bike. More testing this week. The Kestrel can't take a bigger ring in back either, but I'll verify that by the shop that assembled it at Performance. The local Trek store told me I can't go bigger than the 28. I like that shop, and trust them. But, trust and verify! I'll have fun on either bike, especially sharing the experience with my son. I just hate for him to see a grown man cry on that last climb they call "The Wall".
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Old 06-10-18, 08:52 PM
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Light bike and IPAs. Go fast, get drunk fast.
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Old 06-11-18, 03:45 AM
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It's 35 miles with 2300 feet of climbing. You're over thinking it.
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Old 06-11-18, 04:37 AM
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Originally Posted by billyymc View Post
It's 35 miles with 2300 feet of climbing. You're over thinking it.
But there is that one hill....
This climb is like no other and most that attempt it will fail. The Super Hill starts out at 10% then quickly jumps to 15%-20% and just when you canít take it any longer you get a long stretch of 25%-29% before the final 10% finish.
Take the bike with the easy gearing, or be prepared to walk. Actually, with anything but a mountainbike, you might want to be prepared to walk that one.
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Old 06-11-18, 05:50 AM
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Originally Posted by kbarch View Post
But there is that one hill....

Take the bike with the easy gearing, or be prepared to walk. Actually, with anything but a mountainbike, you might want to be prepared to walk that one.
Yeah that looks hard. That section where it hits 20% is going to be painful no matter what bike. I didn't really look that hard at the specifics until now. I think I'd take the bike with the lower gearing for that hill.
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Old 06-11-18, 05:53 AM
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Originally Posted by billyymc View Post
. I didn't really look that hard at the specifics until now.
I didn't look at them at all until you mentioned them.
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Old 06-11-18, 06:05 AM
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Time for an electric motor assist.
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Old 06-11-18, 06:38 AM
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The "super hill" is only on the longest 2 rides. All rides finish with the "wall", which is not the same as the super hill. Either beer...er...bike will work.
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Old 06-11-18, 10:40 AM
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Either bike will work.
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