Which bike for a hilly ride?
06-09-18, 09:07 AM
#1
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Which bike for a hilly ride?
My 18lb Kestrel RT 1000SL, with 52/36 and 11/28, 25 tires, or 25lb Fuji Tread with 50/34 and 12/32, 32 smooth tires. 35 miles for Michigan Mountain Mayhem. Obviously, we don't have real mountains here but it's a hilly road ride. I'm 63, 5'4", 145 lbs. Did the Horsey Hundred (63 miles), in Kentucky last weekend. This will be less miles, steeper climbs. I try to spin up longer climbs, but often stand on short, steep climbs. Never did this ride, which is why I'm doing the short route. I workout in hills locally, but had a slow start with our cold spring. If it rains, I will have to decide between IPA's or Lagers!
06-09-18, 09:20 AM
#2
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Take the lightest bike you got.
... and IPAs, of course.
... and IPAs, of course.
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06-09-18, 09:37 AM
#3
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The lightest sounds the most logical because you will be dragging less weight up the hills and with the taller gears you'll be cruising easier coming down them.
06-09-18, 09:43 AM
#4
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Which bike
Take the bike you love to ride. Put her thru her paces. Enjoy the hell out of it. Meet some great people. Make fun of the obvious idiot. On a ride, I choose the coldest beer, no matter what. The closest comes second. Don’t overthink it. It’s only a bike ride....
Last edited by Bendopolo; 06-09-18 at 09:46 AM.
06-09-18, 09:43 AM
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Are both bikes the same amount of gears and both Shimano or Sram. If so, you can pretty easily put the cassette from the Fuji on to the Kestrel. That will give you so.e insurance in gearing and also the lighter bike.
06-09-18, 10:07 AM
#7
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Originally Posted by rosefarts
Are both bikes the same amount of gears and both Shimano or Sram. If so, you can pretty easily put the cassette from the Fuji on to the Kestrel. That will give you so.e insurance in gearing and also the lighter bike.
06-09-18, 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by jitteringjr
If this was possible on both a competence and campatibility standpoint, would you have asked the question in the OP?
06-09-18, 12:51 PM
#9
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Kestrel 10, Di2 Ultegra, Fuji 11, 105's. I may do a side by side test on a local long, steep hill, for fun. Of course the first time up will feel the best. Yes, it's just a bike ride, and a relatively short one at that. Just a weight vs gearing question. Not worth changing the cassette to me. Luckily I enjoy both rides, one being comfy on lousy surfaces, the other for long rides. That's why I got a fit on both bikes.
06-09-18, 01:37 PM
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If you want to work hard and finish quickly, take the lighter bike. Depending on your fitness and the grades you encounter, you might not even feel the need for the easier gearing. But if you just want to have a good time, take the one with the easier gearing.
06-09-18, 01:39 PM
#11
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Originally Posted by BillyD
Take the lightest bike you got.
... and IPAs, of course.
... and IPAs, of course.
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06-09-18, 04:31 PM
#12
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Assuming you are doing a loop, you are almost always better of on the most aero bike, aero clothes ect. Tour magazine have crunched the numbers several times and that is what it comes to. Low weight is mostly use full if you need to hang on to a breakout/acceleration, in a race
06-09-18, 04:36 PM
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Are you able to climb the grades with 36/28 gearing? If so, then great the Kestrel works. If not, then I would always prioritize proper gearing over 7# of bike weight.
06-09-18, 04:43 PM
#14
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Originally Posted by mstateglfr
Are you able to climb the grades with 36/28 gearing? If so, then great the Kestrel works. If not, then I would always prioritize proper gearing over 7# of bike weight.
06-09-18, 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Racing Dan
Low weight is mostly useful if you need to hang on to a breakout/acceleration, in a race
06-09-18, 05:55 PM
#16
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SInce I won't be going for speed, I might go for the heavier bike, and the lighter beer. I'm losing my taste for hoppy IPA's. Reds, and local lagers are my thing lately. Not to mention Traverse City Whiskey (that they can't call bourbon). It's been edging out my Maker's Mark, where I can get it. Raining today. Tomorrow the comparison test. I'll report my unscientific findings for all who are not going to be able to sleep, waiting for my results.
06-10-18, 07:24 PM
#17
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6 long climbs in the saddle tell me gearing trumps overall weight, when speed isn't a factor. Happily I felt good on both bikes. I'm leaning towards the heavier, better geared bike. More testing this week. The Kestrel can't take a bigger ring in back either, but I'll verify that by the shop that assembled it at Performance. The local Trek store told me I can't go bigger than the 28. I like that shop, and trust them. But, trust and verify! I'll have fun on either bike, especially sharing the experience with my son. I just hate for him to see a grown man cry on that last climb they call "The Wall".
06-11-18, 04:37 AM
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Originally Posted by billyymc
It's 35 miles with 2300 feet of climbing. You're over thinking it.
This climb is like no other and most that attempt it will fail. The Super Hill starts out at 10% then quickly jumps to 15%-20% and just when you can’t take it any longer you get a long stretch of 25%-29% before the final 10% finish.
Actually, with anything but a mountainbike, you might want to be prepared to walk that one.
06-11-18, 05:50 AM
#21
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Originally Posted by kbarch
But there is that one hill....
Take the bike with the easy gearing, or be prepared to walk. Actually, with anything but a mountainbike, you might want to be prepared to walk that one.
Take the bike with the easy gearing, or be prepared to walk.
Actually, with anything but a mountainbike, you might want to be prepared to walk that one.
06-11-18, 05:53 AM
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Originally Posted by billyymc
. I didn't really look that hard at the specifics until now.
I didn't look at them at all until you mentioned them. 
06-11-18, 06:38 AM
#24
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The "super hill" is only on the longest 2 rides. All rides finish with the "wall", which is not the same as the super hill. Either beer...er...bike will work.
06-11-18, 10:40 AM
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Either bike will work.
