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Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

Best brakeset?

Old 06-17-05, 11:25 AM
  #1  
martin_j001
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Hey everyone, I'm trying to find what everyone thinks is the best, most effective brakeset. I'm a big guy at about 230lbs, and the brakes are definitely an important part of my bike. I've some people say that they think the new DA stoppers (the 7800's) are about the best they've used, but wanted to get more opinions in one place. I've also heard that brakes like the Mavics, Cane Creeks, and others out there just aren't all that great in terms of stopping power for larger riders like myself. Looking for opinions, hearsay, personal experience, and whatever you have to offer...post away!! Thanks in advance!!
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Old 06-17-05, 11:43 AM
  #2  
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I weigh in at just under 200, and use Zero Gravity brakes. I live and ride in very hilly and wet country with many hills at 10-15% and have found the stopping power of the 0G brakes to be excellent. If you go over to the Road bike forum on the weightweenies website (http://www.weightweenies.starbike.com) you can find several reviews written by members, all positive. They're not cheap, but if you're looking at DA brakes anyway, you're already willing to spend some serious $ anyway.

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Old 06-17-05, 11:54 AM
  #3  
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i run a set of 0G's too. They are sick light, expensive, and very cool. i dont like the way the caliper is centered (manual with a wrench) and i dont really care for the corima pads. Other than that, f'in awesome.

honestly, i would just go with the DAs, unless youre a Campy guy. The mavic brakes have no release built in, so they need to used with Campy levers. I also have a Cane Creek 200sl front brake for my fixie, it is single pivot (like the 0Gs), and is of very nice quality, but i havent had a chance to use it.
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Old 06-17-05, 12:19 PM
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If you run 0G's and don't like the Corima pads, you can use Koolstop's Campagnolo pads, which supposedly fit the brake pad holders.

http://www.competitivecyclist.com/za...RY.ID=20&MODE=
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Old 06-17-05, 12:22 PM
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im just too lazy
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Old 06-17-05, 12:28 PM
  #6  
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I can't feel a difference in braking between any of the dual pivots I've ridden: D/A, Ultegra, 105, Centaur, as long as the pads and rims are in good shape. I'm no lightweight either. My conclusion: don't pay too much unless the grams you're shaving are a significant percentage of your bike+body weight AND you're racing.
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Old 06-17-05, 02:47 PM
  #7  
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I think what brake pads you are using is going to be much more important than what brakes you're using, they all have the exact same physics behind them. I think cool-stops are highly regarded and work well in the rain. They may squeal unless you toe them in right but they're damn good at stopping.
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Old 06-17-05, 03:01 PM
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Koolstop makes salmon coloured pads specifically for wet-condition riding.
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Old 06-17-05, 03:36 PM
  #9  
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I put salmon kool stops on my Ultegras, and when I'm slowing from 35 MPH to 25MPH, (steep descent with hairpin turns) the front break flat out fails to stop me. I think they overheat. In the rain they leave all kinds of residue on the rims and when dry the rim dust starts flying. I just switched out to the kool stop black compound, supposed to be slightly harder. We'll see.

I used old style campy records with Scott Matthauser salmon pads and I ran them for 20+ years. They were GREAT!, and if the kool stop blacks don't work I'll put the campy's back on. Those break pads are 20+ yeas old and have super stopping power!
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Old 06-17-05, 03:40 PM
  #10  
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You really have problems with braking? To me the biggest problem with road bikes isn't the calipers it's lack of traction from the tires.
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Old 06-17-05, 03:45 PM
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traction? going forward or en ******?
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Old 06-17-05, 03:47 PM
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Old 06-17-05, 04:06 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by tanguy frame
traction? going forward or en ******?
Skidding when I brake. The calipers squeeze harder than the tires can handle.
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Old 06-17-05, 05:14 PM
  #14  
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No, I haven't had any serious problems when braking, and I've never locked up my wheel (at least not without knowing I was going to do it), but I'm planning to spend some more time than usual in the mountains later this summer and fall, and would like to look for something that has better "feedback". Not sure if anyone understands what I mean by that. I guess the real question would be a very technical one where I'd want to know what the differences are between brake technology four or five years ago (considering my current 2000 or 2001 DA brakeset) and the brakesets of today (I know there's not much real difference, but every brakeset has a "feel" to it--I know someone out there understands what I'm getting at). Does the "differential braking" system of Record make a significant difference, do the current DA brakes provide more power/positive feedback, do they feel smoother, etc, etc.
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Old 06-17-05, 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by 53-11_alltheway
Skidding when I brake. The calipers squeeze harder than the tires can handle.
Try adjusting your brakes so that the levers need to be squeezed a little closer to the bar before the pads start grabbing the rims. I think that most bikes are set up so that the calipers bite into the rims when you apply only a little squeeze to the levers. Then, when you pull a panic stop and grab the levers hard, you get too much braking force and oops, there you go over the bars or skidding the rear. Let the levers in a bit and I think you'll get a little more modulation and control.
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Old 06-17-05, 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by hmai18
Try adjusting your brakes so that the levers need to be squeezed a little closer to the bar before the pads start grabbing the rims. I think that most bikes are set up so that the calipers bite into the rims when you apply only a little squeeze to the levers. Then, when you pull a panic stop and grab the levers hard, you get too much braking force and oops, there you go over the bars or skidding the rear. Let the levers in a bit and I think you'll get a little more modulation and control.
I agree with this totally... I run my brakes pretty squishy compared to what a lot of people do, but I like to be able to modulate my braking. I hate pulling the brakes back just a tiny bit and having them grab.
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Old 06-17-05, 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by endform
I think what brake pads you are using is going to be much more important than what brakes you're using...
Using Kool Stop pads made a HUGE difference from stock. Just upgrade the pads first, and then decide if you need new calipers.
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Old 06-17-05, 09:49 PM
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I really like my C-Record Deltas.
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Old 06-17-05, 10:39 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by hmai18
Try adjusting your brakes so that the levers need to be squeezed a little closer to the bar before the pads start grabbing the rims. I think that most bikes are set up so that the calipers bite into the rims when you apply only a little squeeze to the levers. Then, when you pull a panic stop and grab the levers hard, you get too much braking force and oops, there you go over the bars or skidding the rear. Let the levers in a bit and I think you'll get a little more modulation and control.
I can modulate them fine. I only said that to make a point that most brake calipers are probably "capable" of
more gripping power than you actually need. If my tires were up to the task I could clamp down harder than I do to stop faster.

It's not like you'll be going down a hill and your brakes can't apply enough force to the rim. Some calipers like the Cane Creek SLs though are rumored to be weak on clamping power (due to flex?)
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Old 06-17-05, 10:45 PM
  #20  
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Another vote on the Zero Gravity's. I've always liked the Shimano brakes (6500 and 7700 series) and they are certainly excellent, but I do notice a difference with the 0G's. Less force applied for equal stopping power.

Where I notice it most is on long steep descents where feathering is needed.

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