SRAM Rival 1 HRD Bite Point
 

I just installed Rival 1 HRD on my bike. It's my first foray into disc brakes.
I believe I did everything properly, everything seems to be working as expected with one caveat.

It feels like the brake don't 'bite' until the lever is at like 75% pulled. After that, the brakes work well and modulate as I'd expect them to.
They aren't squishy or soft. Just a very long throw until they bite.

Is this normal? Did I do something wrong in the bleed process?

My Red22 HRDs do have a decent amount of travel before they engage also. As long as they don't feel squishy I think its fine. Did you adjust the reach on the levers at all?

Remove the wheel, and apply the brakes a little(a couple times), replace the wheels and test it out.

This video shows what I mean.

WARNING!!! Durainrider video.

you may want to bleed them again...mine were mushy when I first got my bike, but after bleeding them again, the travel/feel became what I expected.

and of course, by "want", i mean "need"

I wouldn't do this with SRAM hydros. Their piston retraction is a lot less than shimanos and you'll likely get rotor rubbing

Sure, but that is easy to correct if he runs into a problem.

I’d try it in small increments. If you overdo it, it’s not the end of the world,

I have Sram Rival hydro and it has minimal free play at the lever. Less than the Shimano system I have.

I tried the tip posted above. I removed each wheel and lightly pulled the lever a few times.
The pads moved in a tiny bit and the wheels were slightly more difficult to get back in and were rubbing, but shortly after the pads retracted a bit and there's not more rub and the 'bite point' is much more to my liking.

I haven't gone on much of a ride with this bike yet, I'll report back after a decent ride.

Thanks for the tips.

1st - SRAM hydraulic brakes are really really sub-par. This assertion is based on working with them extensively since their introduction on road a few years back. It has been affirmed by other mechanics who also belong to the Pro Bicycle Mechanics Association with me. I tend to be nicer than they are. They always recommend trashing them instantly.

In general because they are a DOT synthetic system the seals used tend to swell over time - regardless of what they say. Based on simply reading your post I immediately said, "do a bleed" as that is exactly what we would do here first. Sounds like there is too much air inthe system and or you have a piston seal that has swollen and is sticking. A bleed is usually the only real service that I can see someone doing at home but still it's not for most. Also just because a shop says they can do it doesn't mean they can. For a guide bleed prices are usually in the ballpark of $25-$45 per wheel. if it is a good shop they will probably tell you that they will try a bleed once and then they are going to call SRAm service and warranty the lever and caliper. ....it's how we live in a SRAM world. In reality though is the bleed doesn't work then you probably need a piston service. If you can feel the lever move and it isn't even contacting the master cylinder rod until you're like halfway through the stroke then that is also a known issue. You have to lube it. That requires that you remove the lever and have the lube for their hydraulic system which will aggravate the hell out of your skin if you allow it to contact any part of it.

Have fun.

That's because that is what they are supposed to do. Remove the pads first then use a plastic tire lever to push the pistons all the way back in on the caliper. Re-install the pads.

In general you don't ever want to pull the lever when the rotor is not in or unless you have a spacer in, or have the pads removed and there is a bleed block in place.

None of that fixes your problem though . Master cylinder piston is sticking or your caliper pistons are sticking or you have air in your system.

...and yes it doesn't matter how long you've had the system. Welcome to hydraulic disc brakes - making the world better.....I've heard.

I love you man.

You actually took the the time to explain why SRAM/Avid hydraulic disc brakes suck. The SRAM fanboys never want to believe me when I post something about problems with a SRAM product. They always want some proof/documentation to back up my statements.

Any ideas why they have issues with DOT fluid? I would of thought the seal technology etc would be pretty sorted from the automotive world.

The Rival shifters were used, but the brakes and hoses are brand new.
I'm definitely willing to believe the shifters need lubed/serviced, if they end up being a problem I'll have the LBS take a look. But as they are second hand, I don't expect any warranty help from SRAM.

I felt the shifters of a few other SRAM HRD users at the last group ride and they all 'bit' at about the same point as mine did before adjustment, and noted that they always did, even new.
I think it might be that my expectations are just off. I set my rim brakes so the pads are like 1mm from the rims. Immediate 'bite' at the lever. None of the other hydro brakes I felt 'bit' that early, even the Shimano equipped bikes.

most discs I’ve tried(road and off-road) do not feel like rim brakes that are adjusted 1mm from the rim, no matter what brand of hydraulic disc.

How do your brakes feel now? Are they firm once they begin to bite?

They are nice and firm now.
They were firm before, just with considerable (to me) lever throw before the bite point.