Trouble finding a saddle wide enough, help!
 

I currently ride a specialized power pro at 168mm wide. When I had my sit bones measured last year when buying the bike they measured at 160mm. I've got a fairly large frame, 6'6 wide shoulders but I don't weigh a lot which may also contribute to the saddle fit issue. At 190ish pounds I sit on my sit bones.

Last year they told me the widest they had was 168mm, so thats what we went with but they also told me that ideally you buy 15 to 20mm over what you measure. This would allow for proper placement of sit bones on the "cheeks" of the saddle. There's not much available.

The issue I'm having is some prostate irritation on longer rides, too much pressure right in the center and toward the back. Helps some when I'm on the drops but at the end of the day many of these saddles while wide, taper quickly beyond the center. It seems I need something that's wider and flat(ish) instead of falling off quickly down to the edges.

Reading a bunch of reviews from various cycle sites I found these two options:
https://www.amazon.com/Selle-Royal-R...icycle+saddles

https://www.amazon.com/Planet-Bike-R...icycle+saddles

These are both side and don't have a ton of taper they're also cheap so I think I might give one a try. But I wanted to check with you guys first to see if you had any suggestions or thoughts on saddles and things that could help my situation.

Are you sure that sit bone measurement was right? I know I'm pretty narrow assed, but mine was 115mm and I ride a 143mm saddle. I've never seen wider than 168

I measured myself once and it was 150s can't remember, then bike shop gave me those measurements, can do it again though.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...b8bbffc17c.jpg

Will give you a bit of a counter strategy OP. Many don't know the Ramus of Ischium that make up the pelvis emanating from the 'sit bones' taper or converge. A common mistake is to sit too upright on a saddle. A road bike isn't meant to be ridden like a cruiser and why cruiser saddles are so wide. Rather, a road bike is meant to be ridden with pelvis tilted forward whereby a rider's weight rest on the rails comprising the Ramus. The more you tilt your pelvis which btw allows you to ride with a flatter back the more the Ramus converges.

This is why road bike saddles are narrower than cruiser saddles. Your position on the bike maybe too upright. Your pelvis position can be confirmed with a picture of you on the bike. Most that ride more aero need a narrower saddle because they properly rotate their pelvis which allows them to keep their posture as they flatten their back. This takes pressure off the lumbar area of the back as well.

Pic above illustrating the anatomy of the pelvis. Most that learn to rotate their pelvis and ride in a proper road bike position end up being more comfortable on a more conventional width road bike saddle because the Ramus is adequately supported.

Hope that helps...
PS: I ride a wider width saddle at 155mm with average road bike position...not aggressive but not upright. I do not have narrow sit bone spacing...more wide hipped.

Good call on remeasuring, I've learned a lot since I first measured at am measuring center to center and came up with 130mm (129 to be exact) just now. I'm going to hit the bike shop again and re-measure there!

This is excellent info. I'm going to hit the bike shop again and hit more measurements this week. I'm wondering if yes perhaps I'm riding too upright and perhaps I need a deeper groove/cut out in the saddle.

Edit: the more I think about this the more it makes sense. I tend to ride a touch more upright because when I am aggressive I have pressure on the perineum and some minor numbness after long periods. Maybe I need a deeper channel or cutout to solve that issue.

I wouldn't go near either of the 2 amazon saddles you linked due to saddle cushion thickness.
those are both pretty thick and soft. That typicay isnt a combination that is good for pain reduction.

Yeah I agree, I decided not to order but will be checking some things out this week. Makes me wonder how/why sit bone measurements were so off originally both by me and the bike shop. I'll stop by a couple different shops this week. I may swap my power saddle back on until I can find something with a deeper groove/cut out that may allow me to be more forward in the saddle.

If you look at the instructions for Specialized measure device called the ass-o-meter...or something like that, sit bone spacing is suppose to be taken at the torso angle replicating the riding position on the bike. This is where much of the measurement error occurs. If torso angle is measured in a position other than what you ride, then your sitbones can be unsupported or conversely a rider can experience chaffing based upon being on too wide a saddle.

As you figured out OP, one size doesn't fit all. Many prefer a kick up in the tail of the saddle because this elevates the Ramus to make room for soft tissue when riding aggressively in the drops. A matter of finding what works in all positions which btw, can be a bit daunting to find the holy grail of saddles. Also saddle tilt can completely change the load distribution.

Happy hunting.

You kinda nailed it, I've had some chaffing in the past and I've found that tilting the nose down a hair helps not only with chaffing but also with pressure on the bits when I'm in the drops and/or riding more aggressive. I'm going to hit a couple more bike stores this week and see what I learn.

Get a Brooks B-17. There isn't anyone in the world that ever said a B-17 wasn't wide enough.

No. A B17 is an awful saddle for riding in the drops. A lot of perineal pressure based upon its shape and lack of cutout relief.

Out on the web, there is a good video about pros riding with saddle tilted down which provides relief when riding in the drops. But...many pros really rotate their pelvis forward which takes pressure off the sit bones. One reason a guy like me prefers the Toupe is because you can tilt the saddle a bit nose down which provides perineal relief for low position riding and the rear of the saddle doesn't kick up too much placing too much pressure on the sit bones...because the Toupe is flatish. A precarious balance finding the sweet spot of loading.

Will also say, the better the rider the less the saddle is chair and more of perch. Better riders which are lighter and stronger with tighter rear end can ride just about anything without much discomfort...also they unweight the saddle more with greater pedal pressure. Opposite for recreational riders that aren't as fit who struggle more with finding the perfect saddle which carries more weight.

No it isn't.

allow me to be "that guy" and recommend a selle smp saddle...

https://www.stevehoggbikefitting.com.../#comment-5405

Those effective widths are pretty narrow on most of them. Not a bad option, like the cutout idea a lot given the pressure I get when in the drops.

I figured I would update you guys, I have a Selle Italia I borrowed from local bike shop, its a 146??? Rode a couple miles on it this afternoon, longer ride tomorrow, its not bad. It might be only a touch narrow but generally I can make it work. So thank you for causing me to revisit the sit bone issue. Gonna try this tomorrow and then look at some of the "pro" saddles like the stealth, falcon, etc.

The Brooks Cambiums come in widths wider than the specialised saddles, with a similar shape to the B17 but they have a relatively wide nose, and a really nice, gradual taper. I don't ride with a ton of drop but can hold a really aggressive position on one no problem. The higher the number, (cambium c13, c15, c17,c19) the wider the saddle gets. They have a carved version as well but I haven't found that to be necessary.
They do weigh a ton though, 450ish grams.

Can't comment on sizing but would recommend the fabric radial shallow or the fabric shallow race ti version. I find it comfortable. I find my butt is comfortable when I'm sitting more towards the front of the saddle at times. But I think moving your position, getting out the saddle when possible are good strategies. On a descent I will often get in a aero position and scissor the seat between the legs which can give me some relief. I mean if you ride for hours I don't think there is saddle out there that will be 100% comfortable if you sat in the same position the whole ride.