Light Bicycle Wheels
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I did a little research on Tune last night, and found many complaints of creaking, and being very sensitive to bearing preload. There were also many comments about them being a "fair weather" hub.
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I'm looking at these LB wheels as well. I have rim brakes though, and am wondering if better off with the LB or the TSRs.. both (in my mind) are a gamble due to very little real long-term (or even short-term) review availability.
Specifically.. debating between these 2 products.. basically at the moment is a CF vs Alloy debate for me.
https://www.lightbicycle.com/U-shape...ompatible.html
vs
https://www.bike24.com/p2306399.html?q=tune+tsr
Specifically.. debating between these 2 products.. basically at the moment is a CF vs Alloy debate for me.
https://www.lightbicycle.com/U-shape...ompatible.html
vs
https://www.bike24.com/p2306399.html?q=tune+tsr
#153
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https://www.hambini.com/blog/post/bi...one-is-fastest
It's a Hambini test, so take that for what it's worth.
#154
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True, it is a question of carbon versus alloy rims, but also a question of going with a less common hub design from Tune themselves, rather than being able to choose for Bitex, Novatec, DT Swiss 350 or 240. These are much more known quantities, and you know what kind of hub quality you can expect. With limited reviews on the Tune wheels, the hub would concern me more than the rims. From a quick Google search, the Mig 170 and Mag 170 hubs are designed to be very light, but perhaps not as durable.
Also, making an alloy rim THAT light, at 35mm cross section, probably means it is not exactly what is referred to as "bomb proof". It would most likely require trueing the wheel more often if you ride on rough roads. Not sure. Kind of like the really light Kinlin 200 or 300 rims you can get on Prowheelbuilder and other custom building online stores: they are very light alloy rims, but are known to be a bit less durable than heavier versions. I think that is just the way it is: the lighter an alloy rim is, the less rigid it is.
The fact of the matter is, the Tune TSR 35 were released only in December of 2018, and it is a more niche brand, so it is logical that there would not be many / any reviews. Buying these wheels probably makes you a bit of a guinnea pig. Light Bicycle's rims have been around for longer than that.
I would trust German engineering more than Chinese engineering any day, but you cannot escape the fact that a lightweight alloy wheel is not going to be as "bullet proof" as a heavy alloy wheel. Like Others had said, it is probably a good wheelset for good weather and roads. A bit of a "race day" wheelset I guess?
Also, making an alloy rim THAT light, at 35mm cross section, probably means it is not exactly what is referred to as "bomb proof". It would most likely require trueing the wheel more often if you ride on rough roads. Not sure. Kind of like the really light Kinlin 200 or 300 rims you can get on Prowheelbuilder and other custom building online stores: they are very light alloy rims, but are known to be a bit less durable than heavier versions. I think that is just the way it is: the lighter an alloy rim is, the less rigid it is.
The fact of the matter is, the Tune TSR 35 were released only in December of 2018, and it is a more niche brand, so it is logical that there would not be many / any reviews. Buying these wheels probably makes you a bit of a guinnea pig. Light Bicycle's rims have been around for longer than that.
I would trust German engineering more than Chinese engineering any day, but you cannot escape the fact that a lightweight alloy wheel is not going to be as "bullet proof" as a heavy alloy wheel. Like Others had said, it is probably a good wheelset for good weather and roads. A bit of a "race day" wheelset I guess?
https://weightweenies.starbike.com/f...d9e4a2b104dc7c
Hub Review - Fairwheel Bikes Blog
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All fair concerns and valid points. I read some of the posts out there.. Seems though to be a number of "I heard that.." type of posts or dismissal of the product based on the prior version. The WW thread is probably as good of a rundown as there seems to be available. The FWB rundown is ok.
https://weightweenies.starbike.com/f...d9e4a2b104dc7c
Hub Review - Fairwheel Bikes Blog
https://weightweenies.starbike.com/f...d9e4a2b104dc7c
Hub Review - Fairwheel Bikes Blog
BTW, that Fairwheel Bikes blog doesn't say much about long term durability, it's more of a description of the hub itself.
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Some tire size info. The 25mm GP5000s stretched to 28.2mm on my 21mm internal wheels. Unfortunately they sustained some sidewall damage from an encounter with a pothole, so I replaced them with a set of 23mm GP4KS2s. They measure 26.1mm new, and will probably stretch to around 27mm, which should be perfect on the 28mm wide rims. I like the GP5000s, and will probably use them again in the future, but the 4Ks are cheaper and a little better fit for aero.
#157
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Some tire size info. The 25mm GP5000s stretched to 28.2mm on my 21mm internal wheels. Unfortunately they sustained some sidewall damage from an encounter with a pothole, so I replaced them with a set of 23mm GP4KS2s. They measure 26.1mm new, and will probably stretch to around 27mm, which should be perfect on the 28mm wide rims. I like the GP5000s, and will probably use them again in the future, but the 4Ks are cheaper and a little better fit for aero.
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I've had no issues with Contis, this was an impact/puncture issue with a big/sharp pothole that wasn't called out in a group ride and I didn't see it until the last second, I tried jumping it, but the rear tire caught the edge of the pothole at an odd angle and got punctured, def not any fault of the tire. Only the rear got damaged, but I'm weird about things matching, so I put on a set of GP4KS2s, and now I have a spare 25mm GP5000 with only 300 miles on it. lol
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I've had no issues with Contis, this was an impact/puncture issue with a big/sharp pothole that wasn't called out in a group ride and I didn't see it until the last second, I tried jumping it, but the rear tire caught the edge of the pothole at an odd angle and got punctured, def not any fault of the tire. Only the rear got damaged, but I'm weird about things matching, so I put on a set of GP4KS2s, and now I have a spare 25mm GP5000 with only 300 miles on it. lol
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funnily I never saw or felt what people liked about the conti 4k’s that everyone else did when I rode clinchers. They didn’t last any longer than my other tires and felt kinda dead for me. The last set of clinchers I had were actually some specialized turbo’s and I really liked them. Currently I have some new conti 5000 tubeless on my LB wheels and like them very much. The grippy feeling and rolling actually feel better than the Specialized turbo tubeless I was running previously. Quite the reversal!
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#163
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#164
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From the looks of this test, the LB 56mm wheels did a pretty good job designing an aero shape.
https://www.hambini.com/blog/post/bi...one-is-fastest
It's a Hambini test, so take that for what it's worth.
https://www.hambini.com/blog/post/bi...one-is-fastest
It's a Hambini test, so take that for what it's worth.
Those looking to drop serious $$$ on deep section wheels should bear this in mind. From other testing I've seen, changing to an aero position with clip-on bars saves you 30 watts at 40kph, and an aero helmet also gets you about 10 watts at 40kph. https://www.bikeradar.com/road/gear/...is-aero-19273/
So in terms of watts saved / dollars spent, wheels are not as good of an investment as an aero helmet or clip-on bars. Assuming you have already invested in all the other stuff, aero wheels are still beneficial obviously.
Nice, what rim section did you go with? Did you get brass or alloy nipples? (I can see those are DT 350 straight pull hubs).
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It has taken a little longer than expected, but ordering from the global website saved over $300. That difference will cover tires, discs, 2 cassettes, and a new chain.
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2nd wheelset for the same bike as I recall? Go on McMaster-Carr and get some prevision shim stock--odds are the rotors won't line up exactly perfectly enough on one set or the other.
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They look great!! Good call on the 350 hubs, wish I had made that call. Looks like the bearings on my Novatecs are on the way out. Gonna put better bearings in and hope they last a lil longer, but after doing some more research I should have gone with the 350s.
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The main reason for the hub upgrade is the 54t engagement.
Bzzzz!
Last edited by noodle soup; 03-19-19 at 10:01 AM.
#171
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Really? In how many miles? I have had Novatec last me over a year of good riding without any issues.
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That is very surprising. I've had 291SB/482SB and 291SBsl/482SBsl hubs on a few wheelsets, and usually got about 10k miles before needing to replace the bearings.
The main reason for the hub upgrade is the 54t engagement.
https://youtu.be/OO3Nv-C_jNQ
Bzzzz!
The main reason for the hub upgrade is the 54t engagement.
https://youtu.be/OO3Nv-C_jNQ
Bzzzz!

Got back to bike commuting and found myself in proper 6" deep mud. These shed really well in that kind of goo. They clean up nicely too.



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That is very surprising. I've had 291SB/482SB and 291SBsl/482SBsl hubs on a few wheelsets, and usually got about 10k miles before needing to replace the bearings.
The main reason for the hub upgrade is the 54t engagement.
https://youtu.be/OO3Nv-C_jNQ
Bzzzz!
The main reason for the hub upgrade is the 54t engagement.
https://youtu.be/OO3Nv-C_jNQ
Bzzzz!
I still really like the wheels, and don't fault LB for this, there are no issues with the build quality or rims themselves.