Light Bicycle Wheels
#676
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Not the crankset I would've chosen, but it's still a huge improvement.
FTR, I like white saddles. They look better with white tape, but that can be a PITA to keep clean.
That's a really nice ride.
It's probably just the photo, but damn that saddle is nose high.
#678
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Oh whoops. Didn’t realize there were multiple. This one was Remi Cavagna’s descent in stage 3. There was a lot of debate as to whether his descending was just utter garbage or if his brakes were failing on him. His time is still in the top 3% on strava, but he had both lanes to work with, which is a huge advantage, of course. The reason that descent is tough is because it’s steep (10%), rough, blind and sweeping. There’s no good braking points because as soon as you’re out of one turn, you’re in the next. That’s why it’s so challenging for brakes.
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Oh whoops. Didn’t realize there were multiple. This one was Remi Cavagna’s descent in stage 3. There was a lot of debate as to whether his descending was just utter garbage or if his brakes were failing on him. His time is still in the top 3% on strava, but he had both lanes to work with, which is a huge advantage, of course. The reason that descent is tough is because it’s steep (10%), rough, blind and sweeping. There’s no good braking points because as soon as you’re out of one turn, you’re in the next. That’s why it’s so challenging for brakes.
#680
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4-arm doesn't bother me too much, and the black does balance the aesthetic better. I've had white tape, then I had yellow/dirty tape. Not worth the PITA like you said.
The way the Toupe is shaped, I have the back 1/2 of the saddle effectively level, which raises the nose a touch... and the pic exaggerates it too...
#681
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So I did the chalk thing:
I was able to wipe off chalk 3mm deep into the sidewall. I was pushing the bike fairly hard and was either in line with the bike or had the bike very slightly lower than me but I never went to the absolute limit. Plus, this was all on flat roads. I definitely am nowhere near what more experienced riders around me do on a regular basis.
Are there other people running 25mm tires on these rims or similar? It seemed like there were a lot when I was doing my homework. One user Hexsense actually posted about using 25mm P Zeros on this wheel on WW. At this point, I'm not sure what the correct course of action is. Should I assume that this isn't an issue since Cannondale, Hunt, Enve, Specialized, Cadex, Light Bicycle etc. all say so? I'm tempted to switch at least my front tire to a Corsa to get just that little bit of extra tread but I'm not sure if even that would be enough - 5mm more tread means 2.5mm on each side. I'd prefer more like another 4mm on each side, at least on the front. Maybe 3 on the rear. I can definitely fit a 28mm rear, but a 28mm up front would leave me with 2mm of clearance to the fork crown - tight.
What do you guys think?
I was able to wipe off chalk 3mm deep into the sidewall. I was pushing the bike fairly hard and was either in line with the bike or had the bike very slightly lower than me but I never went to the absolute limit. Plus, this was all on flat roads. I definitely am nowhere near what more experienced riders around me do on a regular basis.
Are there other people running 25mm tires on these rims or similar? It seemed like there were a lot when I was doing my homework. One user Hexsense actually posted about using 25mm P Zeros on this wheel on WW. At this point, I'm not sure what the correct course of action is. Should I assume that this isn't an issue since Cannondale, Hunt, Enve, Specialized, Cadex, Light Bicycle etc. all say so? I'm tempted to switch at least my front tire to a Corsa to get just that little bit of extra tread but I'm not sure if even that would be enough - 5mm more tread means 2.5mm on each side. I'd prefer more like another 4mm on each side, at least on the front. Maybe 3 on the rear. I can definitely fit a 28mm rear, but a 28mm up front would leave me with 2mm of clearance to the fork crown - tight.
What do you guys think?
Last edited by smashndash; 07-14-19 at 06:28 PM.
#682
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So I did the chalk thing:
I was able to wipe off chalk 3mm deep into the sidewall. I was pushing the bike fairly hard and was either in line with the bike or had the bike very slightly lower than me but I never went to the absolute limit. Plus, this was all on flat roads. I definitely am nowhere near what more experienced riders around me do on a regular basis.
Are there other people running 25mm tires on these rims or similar? It seemed like there were a lot when I was doing my homework. One user Hexsense actually posted about using 25mm P Zeros on this wheel on WW. At this point, I'm not sure what the correct course of action is. Should I assume that this isn't an issue since Cannondale, Hunt, Enve, Specialized, Cadex, Light Bicycle etc. all say so? I'm tempted to switch at least my front tire to a Corsa to get just that little bit of extra tread but I'm not sure if even that would be enough - 5mm more tread means 2.5mm on each side. I'd prefer more like another 4mm on each side, at least on the front. Maybe 3 on the rear. I can definitely fit a 28mm rear, but a 28mm up front would leave me with 2mm of clearance to the fork crown - tight.
What do you guys think?
I was able to wipe off chalk 3mm deep into the sidewall. I was pushing the bike fairly hard and was either in line with the bike or had the bike very slightly lower than me but I never went to the absolute limit. Plus, this was all on flat roads. I definitely am nowhere near what more experienced riders around me do on a regular basis.
Are there other people running 25mm tires on these rims or similar? It seemed like there were a lot when I was doing my homework. One user Hexsense actually posted about using 25mm P Zeros on this wheel on WW. At this point, I'm not sure what the correct course of action is. Should I assume that this isn't an issue since Cannondale, Hunt, Enve, Specialized, Cadex, Light Bicycle etc. all say so? I'm tempted to switch at least my front tire to a Corsa to get just that little bit of extra tread but I'm not sure if even that would be enough - 5mm more tread means 2.5mm on each side. I'd prefer more like another 4mm on each side, at least on the front. Maybe 3 on the rear. I can definitely fit a 28mm rear, but a 28mm up front would leave me with 2mm of clearance to the fork crown - tight.
What do you guys think?
#683
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Update if not on the wheels then the tape that the NA folks use for builds and tubeless compatible. I bought the wheels in September and have now had to replace the rim tape on each wheel. First the front about a month ago and today the rear. Woke up twice to a flat tire on each. When pumping up it seemed like air was being lost at the valve but in the end the tape was punctured and air coming out of a hole somewhere nearby. With the heat in the desert sealant seems to evaporate pretty quickly too. I’ve replaced the tape with Stan’s and all is well again. I’ve also moved the bike from garage (100+ degrees every day and night) into the house.
#684
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I asked Hexsense what he thought about the Pirellis (he runs 25f 28r on these wheels):
It is fine as far as i'm using it.
But Pirelli didn't stay on that wheel set for long. My commuter needed new tires so i moved them over and got GP5000 to replace it on my LB.
I push hard on corners. I think Pirelli's grip is as good or better than GP5000. I managed to rear slip on GP5000 a few times. I think, despite whatever Conti claims, GP5000 have less grip than 4000sII. Good thing is, all of the skid are very brief and recoverable.
I'm testing the new Vittoria Corsa G2. For whatever reason, i feel like this could be the grippiest tire i've ever use so far. Still need to validate on some harder rides.
But Pirelli didn't stay on that wheel set for long. My commuter needed new tires so i moved them over and got GP5000 to replace it on my LB.
I push hard on corners. I think Pirelli's grip is as good or better than GP5000. I managed to rear slip on GP5000 a few times. I think, despite whatever Conti claims, GP5000 have less grip than 4000sII. Good thing is, all of the skid are very brief and recoverable.
I'm testing the new Vittoria Corsa G2. For whatever reason, i feel like this could be the grippiest tire i've ever use so far. Still need to validate on some harder rides.
#685
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Update if not on the wheels then the tape that the NA folks use for builds and tubeless compatible. I bought the wheels in September and have now had to replace the rim tape on each wheel. First the front about a month ago and today the rear. Woke up twice to a flat tire on each. When pumping up it seemed like air was being lost at the valve but in the end the tape was punctured and air coming out of a hole somewhere nearby. With the heat in the desert sealant seems to evaporate pretty quickly too. I’ve replaced the tape with Stan’s and all is well again. I’ve also moved the bike from garage (100+ degrees every day and night) into the house.
#686
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going for disc on my new build and the frame and groupset have been ordered already.
went for colnago clx evo disc since it's on a good price at merlin and then paid the deposit on my LBS for a force axs set.
need to wait for 60 days for the 165mm crank to arrive.
only thing missing now are the wheels.
initially decided to go with reynolds ar 58 due to the great price and lifetime warranty although sourcing the xdr freehub is a pain.
however, both the wheels and freehub are out of stock so i am looking for an option.
light bicycle rims paired with industry nine hubs seem to be a good alternative.
my question is which rims should i go for in case i will be using a 25c tyre?
and anyone has an idea where i can find a few anodized spokes like the ones that industry nine offer? only need around 6 pieces.
tia...
went for colnago clx evo disc since it's on a good price at merlin and then paid the deposit on my LBS for a force axs set.
need to wait for 60 days for the 165mm crank to arrive.
only thing missing now are the wheels.
initially decided to go with reynolds ar 58 due to the great price and lifetime warranty although sourcing the xdr freehub is a pain.
however, both the wheels and freehub are out of stock so i am looking for an option.
light bicycle rims paired with industry nine hubs seem to be a good alternative.
my question is which rims should i go for in case i will be using a 25c tyre?
and anyone has an idea where i can find a few anodized spokes like the ones that industry nine offer? only need around 6 pieces.
tia...
#688
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Update if not on the wheels then the tape that the NA folks use for builds and tubeless compatible. I bought the wheels in September and have now had to replace the rim tape on each wheel. First the front about a month ago and today the rear. Woke up twice to a flat tire on each. When pumping up it seemed like air was being lost at the valve but in the end the tape was punctured and air coming out of a hole somewhere nearby. With the heat in the desert sealant seems to evaporate pretty quickly too. I’ve replaced the tape with Stan’s and all is well again. I’ve also moved the bike from garage (100+ degrees every day and night) into the house.
Light Bicycle tape is hot garbage. I didn't have problems with leakage, but after 3 months(2850 miles), the tape was peeling up at the edges, when I replaced the rear tire.
I've never seen this from any other tape, and never even heard of this being a common issue with tubeless tape from any other manufacturer. When I saw this I replaced the tape immediately.
#689
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+1
Light Bicycle tape is hot garbage. I didn't have problems with leakage, but after 3 months(2850 miles), the tape was peeling up at the edges, when I replaced the rear tire.
I've never seen this from any other tape, and never even heard of this being a common issue with tubeless tape from any other manufacturer. When I saw this I replaced the tape immediately.
Light Bicycle tape is hot garbage. I didn't have problems with leakage, but after 3 months(2850 miles), the tape was peeling up at the edges, when I replaced the rear tire.
I've never seen this from any other tape, and never even heard of this being a common issue with tubeless tape from any other manufacturer. When I saw this I replaced the tape immediately.
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#691
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Funnily enough since I moved the bike inside the house from the 120+ degree garage, I seem to be losing practically no air. 2 days now, no need for even a couple hits with the pump. Go figure. Some folks were telling me that one of our local shops tell them that it’s not good for the grease in the bearings to be left out in our heat all the time, doesn’t compute for me, I would think that the bearings generate more heat simply via friction and that grease is made to withstand just like in cars.
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Some folks were telling me that one of our local shops tell them that it’s not good for the grease in the bearings to be left out in our heat all the time, doesn’t compute for me, I would think that the bearings generate more heat simply via friction and that grease is made to withstand just like in cars.
I've worked in several shops(in Southern Nevada + Phoenix), and never once heard anyone say this.
#693
Blazer of saddles, trails
Any advice on whether to go j-bend or straight pull spokes (dt240 hubs, if it matters)?
Also, looking at rims from CarbonFan as well, who can build rims to UST standard (ie no spoke holes). I know this complicates wheel building/repair, but given problems people are having (and I have previously had) with rim tape, I wonder if it is worth it?
Also, looking at rims from CarbonFan as well, who can build rims to UST standard (ie no spoke holes). I know this complicates wheel building/repair, but given problems people are having (and I have previously had) with rim tape, I wonder if it is worth it?
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#695
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I'm surprised this is even a question...
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Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
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I've seen a couple of straight-pull spoke heads busted, but at a guess I'd say it's a fair bit smaller proportion of those than busted elbows... Hard to say, it's tough to imagine how many you've seen of each.
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Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
#699
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Any advice on whether to go j-bend or straight pull spokes (dt240 hubs, if it matters)?
Also, looking at rims from CarbonFan as well, who can build rims to UST standard (ie no spoke holes). I know this complicates wheel building/repair, but given problems people are having (and I have previously had) with rim tape, I wonder if it is worth it?
Also, looking at rims from CarbonFan as well, who can build rims to UST standard (ie no spoke holes). I know this complicates wheel building/repair, but given problems people are having (and I have previously had) with rim tape, I wonder if it is worth it?
as for the straight vs bent heads, I think that’s been answered.
good luck!
#700
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So.. dumb question time.. why is there such a thing as a J-bend spoke? What purpose do they serve?