Need new bars for a CAAD
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Need new bars for a CAAD
My bike fitter is recommending that I get narrower bars. When I'm on the drops, the bike doesn't feel completely controllable. Morevoer, I can't easily turn my wrists to reach the brakes.
I have a 2019 CAAD12 Ultegra in 52 and the bike came with 42cm, C2 bars. I need 40cm. Cannondale doesn't sell their own bars except with a complete bike, so I need to go to another brand.
I'm curious what brands' bars people like, and what to look for in terms of shape. Also, what's recommended for tape? I like the Prologo Plaintouch Cork that came from the factory.
I have a 2019 CAAD12 Ultegra in 52 and the bike came with 42cm, C2 bars. I need 40cm. Cannondale doesn't sell their own bars except with a complete bike, so I need to go to another brand.
I'm curious what brands' bars people like, and what to look for in terms of shape. Also, what's recommended for tape? I like the Prologo Plaintouch Cork that came from the factory.
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I like Zipp SL80. They have a bit of a flare to the drops so they are about 2cm wider at the drops than the brake hoods.
They size them centre to centre at the brake hoods.
They size them centre to centre at the brake hoods.
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You can definitely find Cannondale bars online. There are a lot of used and take offs on eBay and some bike shop websites if you Google . Not saying you can't get a different brand but if you want Cannondale bars they are easy to find.
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If I were you, I would go 38cm. I am just over 6' and on 40's.
Many of the pros have gone narrow. Good video on youtube about this.
To me, the whole bar sizing matching shoulder width is a myth with the same veracity of KOPS.
Narrower is more aerodynamic if you like speed. You don't need width/leverage on a road bike...just slows you down and adds weight.
Many of the pros have gone narrow. Good video on youtube about this.
To me, the whole bar sizing matching shoulder width is a myth with the same veracity of KOPS.
Narrower is more aerodynamic if you like speed. You don't need width/leverage on a road bike...just slows you down and adds weight.
#6
I pedal in my sleep...
I've had an FSA Omega compact alloy bar I've moved from bike to bike for nearly ten years now. It was cheap, simple, and its been my favorite basic bar out of everything I've tried over the same time period.
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Whatever you do, ensure the CDale sizing methodology is the same as whatever brand you decide to go with. Ie. some brands' 42cm bars are another brands' 40cm bars, etc. eg FSA typically sizes their bars based on the bar end distance (which with flare, means the C-C distance at the hoods is typically 2cm less than this).
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If I were you, I would go 38cm. I am just over 6' and on 40's.
Many of the pros have gone narrow. Good video on youtube about this.
To me, the whole bar sizing matching shoulder width is a myth with the same veracity of KOPS.
Narrower is more aerodynamic if you like speed. You don't need width/leverage on a road bike...just slows you down and adds weight.
Many of the pros have gone narrow. Good video on youtube about this.
To me, the whole bar sizing matching shoulder width is a myth with the same veracity of KOPS.
Narrower is more aerodynamic if you like speed. You don't need width/leverage on a road bike...just slows you down and adds weight.
But whatever. When fitting you make suggestions and explain why and the rider decides. I just tell them if they want a second opinion, no problem, just don't take it to an anonymous internet forum.
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I disagree. Breathing and sheer comfort also come into play. Even back in my real racing days, six hours on a bike with the incorrect size...esh.
But whatever. When fitting you make suggestions and explain why and the rider decides. I just tell them if they want a second opinion, no problem, just don't take it to an anonymous internet forum.
But whatever. When fitting you make suggestions and explain why and the rider decides. I just tell them if they want a second opinion, no problem, just don't take it to an anonymous internet forum.
You gotta drink the koolaid of the young kids to stay young:
PS: now don't tell me pro's don't have to breath.
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I've never heard that height is any kind of determinant for selecting or basing a handlebar width decision Those GCN interviewees are mostly all pretty small in stature.. I'd want to know their dress shirt sizes.
#12
I pedal in my sleep...
My personal experience on the width issue. The above mention Omega bars are 42cm but shoulder measurements indicated that I needed a 44cm bar so I went wider on a different bike. I tried my best to get used to the extra width but I hated it. I felt so spread out, like I was riding a mountain bike. I didn't think two extra centimeters would make such a difference. So I bought the same bar in a 40cm and the effects have been pleasant. I love it, and I don't feel cramped or feel like my breathing is restricted in any way. I'd guess it comes down to personal opinion and everyone is going to feel differently, just play around with cheap bars before you make a big purchase!
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As was mentioned, they do run a little wider than many, so I suggest sizing down (but I do prefer a narrower bar). I've become fond of the SL70 Ergo bars, but I do a lot of climbing. I'm 6'3 with medium build and I'm on size 42's.
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https://www.bikeradar.com/mtb/gear/a...h-issue-34169/
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How does shoulder width relate at all apart from being some kind of tradition?
You have your arms between your shoulders and bars which can be at all sorts of angles which would nullify any possible relationship between the two.
Look at Froome as an extreme example.
You have your arms between your shoulders and bars which can be at all sorts of angles which would nullify any possible relationship between the two.
Look at Froome as an extreme example.
#18
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The FSA Wing Pro are nice compact bars with flat tops which make them more aero and comfortable. They're 40cm in the drops and 38cm at the hoods. 80mm reach and 125mm drop. You might find a better deal on them used. There are also copies of this bar made from other manufacturers. You might want a 36-hoods/38cm-drops bar of the same style. Everyone seems to like the FSA compact bars. The type or style of these bars is called "a variable radius compact bar". What ever bar you choose pay careful attention to the reach and drop measurements and compare them to what you currently have. Maybe you desire less reach for example. You can reuse your current tape.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/FSA-GOSSAME...pid=1224808813
https://www.ebay.com/itm/FSA-WING-PR...Y/132816558095
https://www.ebay.com/itm/FSA-GOSSAME...pid=1224808813
https://www.ebay.com/itm/FSA-WING-PR...Y/132816558095
Last edited by Clem von Jones; 11-03-18 at 02:17 PM.
#19
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My fitter suggested that I keep the same reach and drop as my current Cannondale C2, which has a reach of 76mm and a drop of 125mm. It sounds like these bars are very close (within 4mm of reach).
The FSA Wing Pro are nice compact bars with flat tops which make them more aero and comfortable. They're 40cm in the drops and 38cm at the hoods. 80mm reach and 125mm drop. You might find a better deal on them used. There are also copies of this bar made from other manufacturers. You might want a 36-hoods/38cm-drops bar of the same style. Everyone seems to like the FSA compact bars. The type or style of these bars is called "a variable radius compact bar". What ever bar you choose pay careful attention to the reach and drop measurements and compare them to what you currently have. Maybe you desire less reach for example. You can reuse your current tape.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/FSA-GOSSAME...pid=1224808813
https://www.ebay.com/itm/FSA-WING-PR...Y/132816558095
https://www.ebay.com/itm/FSA-GOSSAME...pid=1224808813
https://www.ebay.com/itm/FSA-WING-PR...Y/132816558095
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A fitter can't really tell you what bars will be the most comfortable. You just need experience with different bars. It's no different than saddles. I personally like classic bend bars, Ritchey Neo Classic are good ones, and cotton tape even on my modern bikes. But I know everyone is into compact bars and squishy tape today.
The issue you posted about doesn't even sound like a bar width issue to me. Sounds like a bar tilt issue. If you have the tips rotated too high it's hard to control when in the drops, and it could also cause you to bend your wrists too much when you have to reach the brakes. The tips should be angled towards the center of the seat stays. Just throwing it out there.
The issue you posted about doesn't even sound like a bar width issue to me. Sounds like a bar tilt issue. If you have the tips rotated too high it's hard to control when in the drops, and it could also cause you to bend your wrists too much when you have to reach the brakes. The tips should be angled towards the center of the seat stays. Just throwing it out there.
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How do you figure the right bar shape? It's not like you can easily try them on like cycling shoes.
A fitter can't really tell you what bars will be the most comfortable. You just need experience with different bars. It's no different than saddles. I personally like classic bend bars, Ritchey Neo Classic are good ones, and cotton tape even on my modern bikes. But I know everyone is into compact bars and squishy tape today.
The issue you posted about doesn't even sound like a bar width issue to me. Sounds like a bar tilt issue. If you have the tips rotated too high it's hard to control when in the drops, and it could also cause you to bend your wrists too much when you have to reach the brakes. The tips should be angled towards the center of the seat stays. Just throwing it out there.
The issue you posted about doesn't even sound like a bar width issue to me. Sounds like a bar tilt issue. If you have the tips rotated too high it's hard to control when in the drops, and it could also cause you to bend your wrists too much when you have to reach the brakes. The tips should be angled towards the center of the seat stays. Just throwing it out there.
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I don't know, go to a shop, sit on some bikes and get your hands on different ones. See how they feel in the drops. Not much else you can outside of buying them. But I don't see how moving each hand 1cm inward is going to solve your issue. I have bikes with 40, 42 and 44cm bars and here's actually not a ton of difference.
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Specialized offers some nicely shaped bars in narrow widths (36-40). They're not terribly expensive either.
OP, one thing to be wary of is how the bars are measured. Most bars are measured Center to Center at the end of the drops. Some - Deda notably - measure outer to outer. So a 42 o-o is the same as a 40 c-c.
Also, some bars flare out a the drops where they are measured. This is pretty common on aerobars.
As for the bar shape, I suggest you look at compact bars. They are pretty popular now and are noted by the shorter reach and drop.
OP, one thing to be wary of is how the bars are measured. Most bars are measured Center to Center at the end of the drops. Some - Deda notably - measure outer to outer. So a 42 o-o is the same as a 40 c-c.
Also, some bars flare out a the drops where they are measured. This is pretty common on aerobars.
As for the bar shape, I suggest you look at compact bars. They are pretty popular now and are noted by the shorter reach and drop.
#24
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I’m in the narrow bar crowd. 6’ and ride 38’s. For shape I really like oval profile tops, my favorite being 3T Ergonova.
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Specialized offers some nicely shaped bars in narrow widths (36-40). They're not terribly expensive either.
OP, one thing to be wary of is how the bars are measured. Most bars are measured Center to Center at the end of the drops. Some - Deda notably - measure outer to outer. So a 42 o-o is the same as a 40 c-c.
Also, some bars flare out a the drops where they are measured. This is pretty common on aerobars.
.
OP, one thing to be wary of is how the bars are measured. Most bars are measured Center to Center at the end of the drops. Some - Deda notably - measure outer to outer. So a 42 o-o is the same as a 40 c-c.
Also, some bars flare out a the drops where they are measured. This is pretty common on aerobars.
.