Threaded BBs
#51
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Threaded versus Press Fit BBs
Hi All,
just in the early, early thinking (dreaming) phase for a new bike (frame). I am still more of a traditionalist and i prefer threaded BBs on a bike. I dont feel as if i want to deal with the whole press fit BB thing ; i prefer what i know and what i know works.
Who sells a frame with threaded BBS still?
I Pinarello still has the traditional BB, ( i have a 6 year old Pinarello FP Quatro), but the next upgrade is a Dogma, and that is $$$$$. who else has stayed traditional?
just in the early, early thinking (dreaming) phase for a new bike (frame). I am still more of a traditionalist and i prefer threaded BBs on a bike. I dont feel as if i want to deal with the whole press fit BB thing ; i prefer what i know and what i know works.
Who sells a frame with threaded BBS still?
I Pinarello still has the traditional BB, ( i have a 6 year old Pinarello FP Quatro), but the next upgrade is a Dogma, and that is $$$$$. who else has stayed traditional?
Press fitting a completely sealed preadjusted BB into a frame eliminates the need for adjusting chain wheel position via BB during manufacturing and is much faster than threading. Plus, a tight fit reduces any chances of water penetration into that part of the frame. It may also be a way for mfrs. to limit cyclist/shop/rider options for changing things around and messing with engineered design stress points, etc.
Just a thought.
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It strikes me that as bike technology keeps improving, manufacturing techniques would follow.
Press fitting a completely sealed preadjusted BB into a frame eliminates the need for adjusting chain wheel position via BB during manufacturing and is much faster than threading. Plus, a tight fit reduces any chances of water penetration into that part of the frame. It may also be a way for mfrs. to limit cyclist/shop/rider options for changing things around and messing with engineered design stress points, etc.
Just a thought.
Press fitting a completely sealed preadjusted BB into a frame eliminates the need for adjusting chain wheel position via BB during manufacturing and is much faster than threading. Plus, a tight fit reduces any chances of water penetration into that part of the frame. It may also be a way for mfrs. to limit cyclist/shop/rider options for changing things around and messing with engineered design stress points, etc.
Just a thought.
#54
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The instructions (Campy) say to tighten one side and then tighten the other. One thing I've observed about doing threaded BBs is that if you do it that way, there can be some binding (not much) but when I tighten at about 5 foot pounds at a time, from side to side until specs are reached, I get a much smoother and friction-free result.
#55
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IF the bike frame is made of Steel then the odds are it will have a threaded BB instead of a pressed in one..
Is a much better , than if you buy the latest thing in carbon fiber.. ... as above posters seem to demonstrate ..
I have a Pinarello CX , bought in 90 it's steel and has a threaded BB...
...
Is a much better , than if you buy the latest thing in carbon fiber.. ... as above posters seem to demonstrate ..
I have a Pinarello CX , bought in 90 it's steel and has a threaded BB...
...
Last edited by fietsbob; 01-29-19 at 03:32 PM.
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The instructions (Campy) say to tighten one side and then tighten the other. One thing I've observed about doing threaded BBs is that if you do it that way, there can be some binding (not much) but when I tighten at about 5 foot pounds at a time, from side to side until specs are reached, I get a much smoother and friction-free result.
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#59
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Nothing to do with imagination, except that I imagined why there was more resistance when I tightened the one side up fully while the other side was only just snug, as the instructions dictated. On the campy BB the right side has a flat while the left side does not and it enters into the bike's BB shell. Since they each support the two ends of the bottom bracket, they aren't really independent, are they? And while I may be guilty of having an imagination, I suppose you may be guilty of not having one. I'm just reporting the results I had, which was less resistance when spinning the cranks, no load. But thank you for your concern.
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Nothing to do with imagination, except that I imagined why there was more resistance when I tightened the one side up fully while the other side was only just snug, as the instructions dictated. On the campy BB the right side has a flat while the left side does not and it enters into the bike's BB shell. Since they each support the two ends of the bottom bracket, they aren't really independent, are they? And while I may be guilty of having an imagination, I suppose you may be guilty of not having one. I'm just reporting the results I had, which was less resistance when spinning the cranks, no load. But thank you for your concern.
Spec is to torque each cup on each side. No sequencing. Comports with physics. Cups are independent and separated by solid body aka threaded BB shell.
Maybe you could elaborate about the 'flat you speak of' What flat? Maybe we aren't talking about the same thing. Have a picture? Care to describe in greater detail what parts you are assembling? I have built a ton of Campy bikes.
Torque each side to 35 Nm as shown in Campy's technical procedure:
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Other options are to (1) upgrade existing gravel bike, which fits well and does have a threaded BB, or (2) to buy a PF bike and hope it doesn't creak. I'm kinda leaning to option 1, since I really don't need more stuff clogging up my life.
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No guys. Don't have to go custom to get a threaded BB. Nor if picking the right PF BB...PF30, BB30 or what I currently own...Cervelo's BBright...will it creak. No because these BB's have available threaded together sleeve options.
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I'm starting to figure out that that might be the only way to get the geometry I want and a threaded BB. And given that I live in the middle of nowhere, getting a custom bike might be a logistical challenge.
Other options are to (1) upgrade existing gravel bike, which fits well and does have a threaded BB, or (2) to buy a PF bike and hope it doesn't creak. I'm kinda leaning to option 1, since I really don't need more stuff clogging up my life.
Other options are to (1) upgrade existing gravel bike, which fits well and does have a threaded BB, or (2) to buy a PF bike and hope it doesn't creak. I'm kinda leaning to option 1, since I really don't need more stuff clogging up my life.
1) Where do you live?
2) What are you currently riding?
3) Not all PF bbs creak. My SuperX with Shimano adapters doesn't creak.
4) Campag is right, thread together BBs don't tend to creak from what I've heard.
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Couple questions/thoughts:
1) Where do you live?
Western PA - rural.
2) What are you currently riding?
I've got an All City Space Horse Disc. Kind of a do-everything bike, heavy, but works well on gravel.
3) Not all PF bbs creak. My SuperX with Shimano adapters doesn't creak.
Noted!
4) Campag is right, thread together BBs don't tend to creak from what I've heard.
1) Where do you live?
Western PA - rural.
2) What are you currently riding?
I've got an All City Space Horse Disc. Kind of a do-everything bike, heavy, but works well on gravel.
3) Not all PF bbs creak. My SuperX with Shimano adapters doesn't creak.
Noted!
4) Campag is right, thread together BBs don't tend to creak from what I've heard.
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Also, Allied's Allroad is threaded. Make sure the limited tire clearance is ok for you. My buddy rides this bike and it's an absolute ripper.
https://alliedcycleworks.com/pages/allied-alfa-allroad
https://alliedcycleworks.com/pages/allied-alfa-allroad
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#68
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No concern, because it doesn't matter is all. Just setting the record straight. Your perception. But we have to make sure we are talking about a given BB. I presume you are talking about BSA aka threaded BB either Italian or English threaded and Campy UltraTorque cups. If this is what you are talking about, again it doesn't matter what you write.
Spec is to torque each cup on each side. No sequencing. Comports with physics. Cups are independent and separated by solid body aka threaded BB shell.
Maybe you could elaborate about the 'flat you speak of' What flat? Maybe we aren't talking about the same thing. Have a picture? Care to describe in greater detail what parts you are assembling? I have built a ton of Campy bikes.
Torque each side to 35 Nm as shown in Campy's technical procedure:
Spec is to torque each cup on each side. No sequencing. Comports with physics. Cups are independent and separated by solid body aka threaded BB shell.
Maybe you could elaborate about the 'flat you speak of' What flat? Maybe we aren't talking about the same thing. Have a picture? Care to describe in greater detail what parts you are assembling? I have built a ton of Campy bikes.
Torque each side to 35 Nm as shown in Campy's technical procedure:
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I can see how maybe doing each side a bit at a time might prevent a square taper BB from binding slightly, but I can't see how you'd tighten it properly like that, since the cup with the lip needs to be hard up on the shell.
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GravelGuy
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01-29-15 11:06 AM