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C40 vs C24 Dura Ace
I have some c24’s on my nice weather bike and think I love them. However, I only have the Ultegra wheels on my bad weather bike to compare to. My question is should I upgrade to c-40 and use the c-24 on my 2nd bike. What are some real world differences. I’ve read as many reviews as I could find. Are the c-40’s that much more aero? Are they worth the 400$ price difference. The stiffer The better. My 6700 Ultegra s seem very flexy now after getting used to the c24. I’d say my regular ride is rolling hills with some flats and a few short climbs. |
Stop using Shimano wheels? no need to match your groupset, there are lots and lots of good choices
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Originally Posted by mgopack42
(Post 20782572)
Stop using Shimano wheels? no need to match your groupset, there are lots and lots of good choices
The 6700 have been abused. Never serviced in over 50,000 miles and other than the non stiffness I’ve noticed recently roll great. Thanks |
Originally Posted by Greatestalltime
(Post 20783299)
What are some that are comparable, cost effective, and as reliable as the two mentioned. The 6700 have been abused. Never serviced in over 50,000 miles and other than the non stiffness I’ve noticed recently roll great. Thanks |
Yes, definitely Campagnolo. Perhaps a touch noisy, but they turned a steady-as-you-go cyclist into a slightly-faster-steady-as-you-go one. That, and losing a bit of weight.
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I didn't know anything about shimano wheels, so i looked them up. as far as i can tell the C-40 dura ace wheel is less than 40mm deep, and a aluminum / carbon wheel. the online prices i saw with a quick glance was $1000 give or take. the wheels i have and recommend are 50 mm deep, carbon / aluminum, and high quality. they aren't one of the new fangled toroidal profiles, and may not be as wide inside width as some, but these are very good wheels for the average guy that wants good looks and high quality. the thing i like about Campy, is that they support their stuff for a lot longer than the other manufacturers. although i see that changing a bit these days. here is a pic of my bike with the Bullet 50 wheels. i peeled off the decals from the rear wheel, because the wife said "UGLY" but i wish i hadn't! but now you can see them either way Probikekit has them under $775, and an additional $35 off coupon code. no tax, free shipping, mine had no tariff. if you LOVE ceramic bearings the Bullet 50 Ultra is about $1100, still in the C40 range price wise.https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...d7a55adc19.jpg
I took this pic for the hot or not thread... evidently NOT! |
Originally Posted by mgopack42
(Post 20783507)
I am always tongue in cheek with relation to Shimano. I dont like their stuff. I have a nice pair of Campagnolo Bullet 50 wheels that i paid about $825 for new. i think the equivalent in non-Campy (i.e. Fulcrum) is the Red Wind. i like the carbon wheel with the aluminum brake track (not super light, but neither am I! And i have had a pair of Fulcrum wheels that were supre reliable. the only problem with Campy wheels ( and maybe other factory built wheels) is that in the unlikely event you break a spoke, replacements are proprietary and need to be sourced from the manufacturer. Campy has exceptional quality in the hubs and overall build, which is why i am so loyal, even if there is a price premium.
My my dream of having Campy was not meant to be. I did keep the wheel bags though! |
Originally Posted by Greatestalltime
(Post 20781517)
I have some c24’s on my nice weather bike and think I love them. However, I only have the Ultegra wheels on my bad weather bike to compare to. My question is should I upgrade to c-40 and use the c-24 on my 2nd bike. What are some real world differences. I’ve read as many reviews as I could find. Are the c-40’s that much more aero? Are they worth the 400$ price difference. The stiffer The better. My 6700 Ultegra s seem very flexy now after getting used to the c24. I’d say my regular ride is rolling hills with some flats and a few short climbs. If you're in the $1,000 bracket you have tons of options--especially handbuilts. |
Originally Posted by Greatestalltime
(Post 20783838)
This will be frowned on then. I put Dura Ace group on my De Rosa Protos. I know, sacrilege. When building and after already acquiring a Set Of Shamals at a nice price, Campy switched to their twelve speed and I couldn’t find record eps. So I sold the Shamals at s loss and switched to Shimano. Mixing brands won’t go with my ocd. My my dream of having Campy was not meant to be. I did keep the wheel bags though! |
Originally Posted by Marcus_Ti
(Post 20783841)
What is your budget, and what is your weight?
If you're in the $1,000 bracket you have tons of options--especially handbuilts. Tell me some of the benefits or why you’d say that handbuilts are a better option, please. Eveeything I read tells me nothing but good about the Dura ace lineup and the c-24’s I own are excellent. Though, like I said, I only have the Ultegra and some factory Giant wheels to compare. |
Keep in mind that the C40's are are really C35's.
https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=113&t=143554&sid=f3fcb638452da8be8d8ed51a8601d6a2 https://www.bikeforums.net/road-cycl...-c60-scam.html Damage to the DA rim means a complete wheel replacement. I bent a C24 on a pot hole and tried to get the rim replaced. Every wheel guy I mentioned it to just shook his head. They are light. -Tim- |
Nobody does rear hubs better than Shimano, IMO. And those laminated carbon/ally rims are the bomb - it's just a massive bummer they aren't available as spares, dammit.
I reckon you have to spend pretty hard to get better wheels than Shimano. Best bang for buck, leaving aside rim replacement. Shimano's support for spokes and cones is a bit patchy, but their wheels mostly accept standard spokes, and you can avoid the need for cones by making sure the hubs are adjusted right, and servicing them every few years or so. |
Originally Posted by TimothyH
(Post 20784239)
Keep in mind that the C40's are are really C35's.
https://weightweenies.starbike.com/f...8ed51a8601d6a2 https://www.bikeforums.net/road-cycl...-c60-scam.html Damage to the DA rim means a complete wheel replacement. I bent a C24 on a pot hole and tried to get the rim replaced. Every wheel guy I mentioned it to just shook his head. They are light. -Tim- I guess I’ll get the c24 unless the Ultegra rs 700 is essentially the same except with a slightly lessser hub. If so maybe those. Thanks a lot though for the heads up on no change to the c-40 clincher |
Originally Posted by Kimmo
(Post 20784412)
Nobody does rear hubs better than Shimano, IMO. And those laminated carbon/ally rims are the bomb - it's just a massive bummer they aren't available as spares, dammit.
I reckon you have to spend pretty hard to get better wheels than Shimano. Best bang for buck, leaving aside rim replacement. Shimano's support for spokes and cones is a bit patchy, but their wheels mostly accept standard spokes, and you can avoid the need for cones by making sure the hubs are adjusted right, and servicing them every few years or so. Any thought on the RS 700 Ultegra vs the c24? Maybe I should just save the 200$ and make my wife like me. |
I own c24’s and love them! Also own c50’s and really love those wheels as well. I should say both are the 7900 version but still going strong. Also own Zipp 303, 404, 808 also very nice wheels. My thoughts: Shimano (Dura Ace) wheels are generally regarded for having great hubs, bomb proof, stiff, and less aerodynamic than average same category competitors. Aluminum brake tracks are better than carbon, in my opinion, especially when wet. Upgrading to c40 is really a rebadged c35 and that really does not help significantly from an aero perspective and may hurt if the ride becomes stiffer, a c50 will for sure. For a bad weather bike, c24’s are too nice IMHO. I really enjoy the quick spin up and the responsiveness of the 24’s but for foul weather I am not pushing hard just trying to remain upright. I would not view the c40’s as a significant upgrade from your c24’s. |
MICRO RANT::roflmao2:
Not to be critical of the OP, but it seems like he asked for opinions, and has decided to ignore them all unless they align with what he was already thinking... to me, this is a "why bother" I guess we all want our thoughts validated to some extent. some more than others it seems. it has been established here (if i am not letting my biases intrude, and i understand properly) that the Shimano wheels are not repairable, have some other possible issues with not being as updated as claimed. I mentioned Campy Bullet 50 wheels which are fully supported by the manufacturer, and have replacement parts in case of a catastrophe, and are high quality, AND cheaper to boot. this opinion was dismissed with "I want Shimano". no problem, my feelings aren't hurt, just why bother? END RANT :):thumb: |
Originally Posted by mgopack42
(Post 20785159)
MICRO RANT::roflmao2:
Not to be critical of the OP, but it seems like he asked for opinions, and has decided to ignore them all unless they align with what he was already thinking... to me, this is a "why bother" I guess we all want our thoughts validated to some extent. some more than others it seems. it has been established here (if i am not letting my biases intrude, and i understand properly) that the Shimano wheels are not repairable, have some other possible issues with not being as updated as claimed. I mentioned Campy Bullet 50 wheels which are fully supported by the manufacturer, and have replacement parts in case of a catastrophe, and are high quality, AND cheaper to boot. this opinion was dismissed with "I want Shimano". no problem, my feelings aren't hurt, just why bother? END RANT :):thumb: |
Originally Posted by mgopack42
(Post 20785159)
MICRO RANT::roflmao2:
Not to be critical of the OP, but it seems like he asked for opinions, and has decided to ignore them all unless they align with what he was already thinking... to me, this is a "why bother" I guess we all want our thoughts validated to some extent. some more than others it seems. it has been established here (if i am not letting my biases intrude, and i understand properly) that the Shimano wheels are not repairable, have some other possible issues with not being as updated as claimed. I mentioned Campy Bullet 50 wheels which are fully supported by the manufacturer, and have replacement parts in case of a catastrophe, and are high quality, AND cheaper to boot. this opinion was dismissed with "I want Shimano". no problem, my feelings aren't hurt, just why bother? END RANT :):thumb: |
Originally Posted by tagaproject6
(Post 20785202)
I don't take BF seriously at all. No one should. ;)
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Originally Posted by mgopack42
(Post 20785159)
MICRO RANT::roflmao2:
Not to be critical of the OP, but it seems like he asked for opinions, and has decided to ignore them all unless they align with what he was already thinking... to me, this is a "why bother" I guess we all want our thoughts validated to some extent. some more than others it seems. it has been established here (if i am not letting my biases intrude, and i understand properly) that the Shimano wheels are not repairable, have some other possible issues with not being as updated as claimed. I mentioned Campy Bullet 50 wheels which are fully supported by the manufacturer, and have replacement parts in case of a catastrophe, and are high quality, AND cheaper to boot. this opinion was dismissed with "I want Shimano". no problem, my feelings aren't hurt, just why bother? END RANT :):thumb: Thanks for your response and I’m still considering them. I wish the 35 were the same price. |
Originally Posted by Greatestalltime
(Post 20785469)
Sorry, after reading your post I did consider mixing Campy wheels with Dura Ace, despite my need to have things match or at least not contrast. I know this is silly, but it’s who I am at this point. I did look at the Bullets and I believe the 50 profile is too deep for the cross windy rides I often take. I also couldn’t find a weight. Thanks for your response and I’m still considering them. I wish the 35 were the same price. What i think is important, is that wheels have never been part of a groupset. ad at the price point you are looking, dont limit yourself to one brand. get the best deal on the best wheels you can afford! good luck! |
Originally Posted by Greatestalltime
(Post 20784120)
Yes. Right around 1000-1200. I know many recommend getting handbuilt wheels. I’m pretty sure I’m set on either c-24 or c-40. Tell me some of the benefits or why you’d say that handbuilts are a better option, please. Eveeything I read tells me nothing but good about the Dura ace lineup and the c-24’s I own are excellent. Though, like I said, I only have the Ultegra and some factory Giant wheels to compare. For $1200 you can get King or White or i9 or Onyx or DTSwiss hubs with great warranties and support. Also rims like AL33 or R90SL or Belgium+. Could also get a set of White hubs laced to ProWheelbuilder house CF rims for $1300. Shoot my Light-Bicycle set are their CX46 CF rims laced to Onyx hubs and came in under $1200 shipped. Shimano makes some nice hubs...OTOH in that price bracket everyone does--or should. |
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