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Hydraulic Disc brake issue

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Hydraulic Disc brake issue

Old 03-21-19, 12:15 PM
  #1  
El Davisimo
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Hydraulic Disc brake issue


Hey guys. I have a new Fuji with Hydraulic disc brakes. As you can see in the pic, I need to remove the front wheel to store it on my wall at home. The issue is that every time I put the wheel back on, the pads scrape against the brakes and I have to readjust my brakes, which is a pain in the butt. Anyone know why it is doing this and how I can fix it?
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Old 03-21-19, 12:29 PM
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I have used the cable operated hydraulic TRP HyRd for a few months now ..

...where you need to stuff a Keeper in between the pads , when you remove the wheel ,

so you don't have the auto pad wear compensation trying to fill in the gap , when you touch the brake lever..

they have a lockout knob.. used in set up, and also useful when you take the wheel out..






so EZAF, why not put the disc brake bike on top rack It & leave the wheels on,
and put the rim brake bike on the bottom,
where the removal of the wheel won't be an issue..






....

Last edited by fietsbob; 03-21-19 at 12:34 PM.
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Old 03-21-19, 01:39 PM
  #3  
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Use the pad spacer which was supposed to have come with your brakes. It looks something like this and goes between the pads when the wheel/rotor is off the bike.




Also, don't touch the brake lever when the wheel is off.

Or move the Fuji to the top and take the wheel off the other bike.


-Tim-
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Old 03-21-19, 04:00 PM
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that's why QR and disk does not go well, zero problem with realigning brake on thru axle
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Old 03-21-19, 05:13 PM
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Don't hit your level. Use a spacer if you can't stop hitting the lever with it on the wall in that position. I'd bump into that lever all the time.
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Old 03-21-19, 05:31 PM
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Hey guys. It's hard to see in the pic, but there is a spacer inside the brake. I don't know why it does it. I will probably take to a pro, since I am unable to describe it well enough. Thanks all.
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Old 03-21-19, 05:51 PM
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I always tighten the axle on my bikes with the bike sitting on the floor and adding just a bit of weight with my hand prior to tightening. Otherwise if tightening on the stand, the axle/wheel registration seems to vary a little and I'd occasionally get an off-center condition between rotor and caliper.
Once I started tightening the axle with the bike's weight on it, then centering the caliper... it registers real close each time thereafter... at least in my case. Good luck!
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Old 03-21-19, 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by rayooo View Post
I always tighten the axle on my bikes with the bike sitting on the floor and adding just a bit of weight with my hand prior to tightening. Otherwise if tightening on the stand, the axle/wheel registration seems to vary a little and I'd occasionally get an off-center condition between rotor and caliper.
Once I started tightening the axle with the bike's weight on it, then centering the caliper... it registers real close each time thereafter... at least in my case. Good luck!
Yep, QRs are sensitive to alignment especially with discs. If you have cup and cone bearings then they are even more sensitive to alignment and QR tension. thru axles do a better job with the alignment but can still have minor issues. From that picture why not just lean the bike against the wall? It doesn't save any extra space the way its set up
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Old 03-21-19, 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by redlude97 View Post
Yep, QRs are sensitive to alignment especially with discs. If you have cup and cone bearings then they are even more sensitive to alignment and QR tension. thru axles do a better job with the alignment but can still have minor issues. From that picture why not just lean the bike against the wall? It doesn't save any extra space the way its set up
I'd love to, but it's an obstacle course. What you don't see is the foot of the bed is just in front. The hanging bike is easy to avoid, but if I lean the hybrid against the wall, the handlebars stick out and I have whacked my junk walking out of the bathroom in the middle of the night. This really is the best solution.
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Old 03-21-19, 07:31 PM
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Originally Posted by El Davisimo View Post

Hey guys. I have a new Fuji with Hydraulic disc brakes. As you can see in the pic, I need to remove the front wheel to store it on my wall at home. The issue is that every time I put the wheel back on, the pads scrape against the brakes and I have to readjust my brakes, which is a pain in the butt. Anyone know why it is doing this and how I can fix it?
How exactly are you "adjusting" the brakes? Hydros are self-adjusting. If you accidentally squeeze a handle with the wheel off, then you will need to pry apart the calipers in order to get the disc back in. A tire iron (left side in this example) is ideal for prying the pads apart...takes just a few seconds.
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Old 03-21-19, 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by El Davisimo View Post
I'd love to, but it's an obstacle course. What you don't see is the foot of the bed is just in front. The hanging bike is easy to avoid, but if I lean the hybrid against the wall, the handlebars stick out and I have whacked my junk walking out of the bathroom in the middle of the night. This really is the best solution.
What do you need more, a bed or a bike? You can sleep on the couch.
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Old 03-22-19, 05:59 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by El Davisimo View Post
I'd love to, but it's an obstacle course. What you don't see is the foot of the bed is just in front. The hanging bike is easy to avoid, but if I lean the hybrid against the wall, the handlebars stick out and I have whacked my junk walking out of the bathroom in the middle of the night. This really is the best solution.
Can you put the commuter on top? If not, +1 to a tire lever to push the pads in a little before re-inserting the wheel.
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Old 03-22-19, 07:38 AM
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Time for a larger place.
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Old 03-22-19, 08:33 AM
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I have a similar issue. I don't remove the wheel very often, though. But with my Cannondale Quick CX, which has hydraulic disk brakes, I notice that whenever I do remove the front wheel I end up with a slightly misaligned brake which becomes evident when slowly rolling the bike emits a soft whine. I am careful to not touch the brake lever while the wheel is off. It just seems to be a fact of life if you're using QR skewers rather than through axles. My solution is to realign the brakes every time I remove the wheel. It's a pretty quick process, but if I were removing the wheel after every ride there's no way that I would consider that acceptable.

The other annoyances I have with disk brakes are around the fact that the ventilation / weight saving holes in the rotors catch gently against the pads when braking, making a th-th-th-th-th sound. ...that, and the fact that whenever the rotors are just a little dirty they have a tendency to screech. Oh, and if I want to remove a fork I'm into either removing the entire brake assembly, or re-bleeding the system.

What benefit am I getting? A little better stopping power, less rim wear, better tire clearance than road-oriented calipers, reduced fade when wet. I think that's about it. The industry is going in the disk brake direction, and eventually it will become hard to find caliper style brakes, but the benefits come with costs.

In your situation, put the flat bar bike on top, or use hangers that hang the bike from the front wheel instead of from the top tube.
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Old 03-22-19, 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by rayooo View Post
I always tighten the axle on my bikes with the bike sitting on the floor and adding just a bit of weight with my hand prior to tightening. Otherwise if tightening on the stand, the axle/wheel registration seems to vary a little and I'd occasionally get an off-center condition between rotor and caliper.
Once I started tightening the axle with the bike's weight on it, then centering the caliper... it registers real close each time thereafter... at least in my case. Good luck!
This is a good tip! I've been tightening the axle while the bike is on the stand. Going forward, I'm going to start doing this. Thanks!
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Old 03-22-19, 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by NoWhammies View Post
This is a good tip! I've been tightening the axle while the bike is on the stand. Going forward, I'm going to start doing this. Thanks!

Yes, QR seems to seat much more accurately when on the ground.
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