Replacing handlebars...Should I do it myself?
Hi-I'm replacing the stock handlebars that came with my TCR. I don't like them and decided to get Zipp SL 70 aero handlebars.
The thing is I've never replaced handlebars before. How hard is it for someone doing the first time? What are the things I need to pay attention? Is it worth investing time and effort for something I probably won't do again soon? For the background, I have Shimano Ultegra hydraulic Di2 groupset. Thanks for your advice and guidance! |
It's not the handlebar repalcement that should grab your attention, it's the cables and the hydraulic lines. They would take more time than the actual replacement of the handlebars. It's pretty easy, though.
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So long as you're comfortable with the fact that your first tape wrap job will likely be terrible, go for it. The TCR doesn't appear to have routing inside the bars so you shouldn't have to fiddle with brake lines. Should just be a matter of unwrapping the bars, taking off the shifters, and putting the new bar in place of the old one. Would take a first-timer an hour, hour and a half. Now if the pics I could find are being sneaky and the brake lines run through the bars, absolutely have a shop do it.
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Torque everything down to spec or the carbon handlebars will explode.
I'd use the old handlebar tape for a temporary tape job until you're sure you have the controls and cables in the right place, then put new tape on. |
Originally Posted by tyrion
(Post 20954702)
Torque everything down to spec or the carbon handlebars will explode.
I'd use the old handlebar tape for a temporary tape job until you're sure you have the controls and cables in the right place, then put new tape on. |
Zipp SL 70 aero handlebars have internal routing and if you mounted them on the outside it would look very odd. I think this is a job that should be handled by the pros
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If you question your mechanical abilities , may want to reconsider over spending on high end component parts
and get more pragmatic parts.. :foo: Oops too late.. :eek: ... |
ProTip: When mounting new carbon bars, make sure to torque down with the stem faceplate bolts until you hear some light but audible cracking, then back off a quarter turn with each bolt.
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:lol:
Originally Posted by Dan333SP
(Post 20954832)
ProTip: When mounting new carbon bars, make sure to torque down with the stem faceplate bolts until you hear some light but audible cracking, then back off a quarter turn with each bolt.
Swapping out bars is very easy unless you need to recable while you're at it (ie if the cables run inside the bars. You can always run the cables along the underside of the bars till you DO recable. Or just have a shop do it. Take a picture of your bars from the side so you can replicate it as best you can when you put the new bars on. |
YouTube.com will show you everything you need to know to make this decision for yourself. :thumb:
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Originally Posted by fietsbob
(Post 20954790)
If you question your mechanical abilities , may want to reconsider over spending on high end component parts
and get more pragmatic parts.. :foo: Oops too late.. :eek: ... |
Originally Posted by rower2cyclist
(Post 20954670)
Hi-I'm replacing the stock handlebars that came with my TCR. I don't like them and decided to get Zipp SL 70 aero handlebars.
The thing is I've never replaced handlebars before. How hard is it for someone doing the first time? What are the things I need to pay attention? Is it worth investing time and effort for something I probably won't do again soon? For the background, I have Shimano Ultegra hydraulic Di2 groupset. Thanks for your advice and guidance! Do you tool on your bicycle/car/motorcycle/dirtbike? Whats your workspace/shop setup? Do you have a nice collection of tools? Do you have the patience for detail? Would you be willing to fail until you figure it out? Disconnecting your hydraulic lines, reconnecting and then bleeding isnt really difficult if you are mechanically minded but it might take two or three times before you get it dialed in. Youll have to do some work with the DI2 equipment as well. None of it difficult if you are mechanically minded and have the time / patience to learn the systems and figure it out. If tools are not your thing and you would rather be riding or hanging with friends or family than spending a couple hours working on your bike then bring it to a shop. If you enjoy tooling and have a good collection of tools then buy a brake bleed kit and have at it. I enjoy the tooling part when I have time to do it. With 3 teenage girls in the house, I often go hide in my mancave and figure out bike stuff. If Wifey asks what I am doing... its my male crafting time. They do painting and cards and pictures. I do bikes. -Sean PS - The patience for detail is in the bar wrap. Take your time. Go slow. Breathe. It can look pretty good if you don't rush it and take the time to line the tape up. |
Took me well over 1.5 hours to swap out SL 70s (from another internally routed bar on an aero bike), and I've worked in 3 different bike shops. You'll have to completely recable your bike.
Take it to a shop and be prepared to pay upwards of $100 plus. |
Thanks everyone, think I'll take it to a shop!
Interestingly there is not a single video on Youtube on how to install SL70 aero handlebars, lmk if you seen one! :) |
Originally Posted by alpine 318is
(Post 20954761)
Zipp SL 70 aero handlebars have internal routing and if you mounted them on the outside it would look very odd. I think this is a job that should be handled by the pros
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Originally Posted by tyrion
(Post 20954702)
I'd use the old handlebar tape for a temporary tape job until you're sure you have the controls and cables in the right place, then put new tape on.
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Having done exactly this (swap from round handlebars to aero integrated ones) just a few weeks ago, I know it's a pain. I got about 1/2 way through and when I lost my internal cable routing because my tape fell off, I gave up and brought it to the shop. Some jobs are worth doing at home, some jobs are better left to the pros.
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