In need of advice.
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In need of advice.
I am riding a Cannondale Quick 3 and 7 due to a back surgery a few years ago. I would like to move to a road bike but not a model with an aggressive geometry. I would like to stay with Cannondale but am willing to test ride other brands. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Can be disc or caliper and have a budget of $1,000. to $1,500. and would be selling the Quick 7. I have had the rear cogs on the 3 swapped from an 11-32 to a 11-36 as my area has some very steep hills and I am 70 years old. The swap of the cogs was an effort to save the old knees and it made a noticeable difference. Also, if you think I am better off staying with the 3 please say so. My average speed is 11.5 and my distance is around 12. Working on making it a longer time and distance as my longer rides are 15-18 miles.
Thanks in advance for your time, Frank.
Thanks in advance for your time, Frank.
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I say stick with what you have.
I think the flat bar bike is probably best. Given your back and fit issues, I doubt you will ever use the drops on a true road bike.
You could try different tires that are more road bike oriented, which may make for a faster ride.
I think the flat bar bike is probably best. Given your back and fit issues, I doubt you will ever use the drops on a true road bike.
You could try different tires that are more road bike oriented, which may make for a faster ride.
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Thanks, Frank.
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Get a bike with headtube tall enough that you can be fitted to ride comfortably in the drops, then riding the tops or the hoods will be even more upright. Most people get fit to riding primarily on the hoods - that doesn’t have to be the case, as one should be comfortable in all positions. That’s supposed to be the advantage of drop bars!
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Thank you all. Are there better, less aggressive geometry wise, models of bike? I have read that, in the Cannondale line for instance, the Synapse is a less aggressive design than say the EVO. Am I correct or am I missing the point?
Frank.
Frank.
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I have some back and shoulder issues, I switched to a canondale slate a few years ago and it made a huge difference to me. You don't realize the pounding road bike deal you until you ride something softer. In hindsight, I think the fat tires have more of an effect than the left fork, so I'd recommend you get something you can put fat tires on. I ride 650b 42mm slicks, they are surprisingly fast and amazingly comfortable. But I won't be winning any hill climb competitions. You should be able to get a slate 105 used with in your price range.
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The Fuji Sportif model definitely has that less aggressive geometry you are looking for. I ride the Sportif 1.5 and it has done me well, although I am now looking to get something which does has a slightly more aggressive geometry myself. The Sportif has an enormous head tube which provides a more relaxed and upright posture. Quality bike and components though.
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Busted up back, neck and shoulders here too. At age 61 I'm doing pretty well all things considered, but my neck and shoulders haven't aged well.
If I get another drop bar bike it'll be a more relaxed endurance type geometry, bigger tires -- at least 700x28, preferably larger -- with bar tops at saddle height and drops for only occasional use.
For now I'm still enjoying my road bikes ('89 Ironman, Trek 5900) but even after months of physical therapy and lots of work on my neck, there will always be limitations. Some days 20-30 mile rides are fun, and it quickly becomes work after 40-50 miles when the neck pain kicks in.
While I also enjoy my more relaxed hybrid (currently with albatross swept bars), the advantage to drops are the versatile hand positions. Even without using the drops, there are at least three hand positions -- tops, on the hoods, and somewhere between. Most of us shift around those positions a lot. Really helps over longer rides. You might find yourself enjoying longer rides with a drop bar bike set up to accommodate your body.
An alternative? Consider switching one of your flat bar bikes to swept bars -- albatross, North Roads or similar. These are remarkably comfortable and versatile bars, with almost as many hand positions as drop bars. I enjoy my hybrid much more now than when I had riser and flat bars on it. Several other modifications too -- primarily, I switched from thumb shifters to bar-end shifters. Lots of little fit adjustments. I'm still trying to find the perfect saddle, but otherwise the bike is pleasant to ride up to 40-50 miles in a day, usually relaxed group rides around 12 mph with lots of breaks to rest and socialize. Nice change of pace from my road bikes. More fun, less competition and work.
If I get another drop bar bike it'll be a more relaxed endurance type geometry, bigger tires -- at least 700x28, preferably larger -- with bar tops at saddle height and drops for only occasional use.
For now I'm still enjoying my road bikes ('89 Ironman, Trek 5900) but even after months of physical therapy and lots of work on my neck, there will always be limitations. Some days 20-30 mile rides are fun, and it quickly becomes work after 40-50 miles when the neck pain kicks in.
While I also enjoy my more relaxed hybrid (currently with albatross swept bars), the advantage to drops are the versatile hand positions. Even without using the drops, there are at least three hand positions -- tops, on the hoods, and somewhere between. Most of us shift around those positions a lot. Really helps over longer rides. You might find yourself enjoying longer rides with a drop bar bike set up to accommodate your body.
An alternative? Consider switching one of your flat bar bikes to swept bars -- albatross, North Roads or similar. These are remarkably comfortable and versatile bars, with almost as many hand positions as drop bars. I enjoy my hybrid much more now than when I had riser and flat bars on it. Several other modifications too -- primarily, I switched from thumb shifters to bar-end shifters. Lots of little fit adjustments. I'm still trying to find the perfect saddle, but otherwise the bike is pleasant to ride up to 40-50 miles in a day, usually relaxed group rides around 12 mph with lots of breaks to rest and socialize. Nice change of pace from my road bikes. More fun, less competition and work.
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canklecat, I have to admit that the neck and shoulder thing is starting to be a consideration as of late. I have narrowed my bars and that has helped but when I get up to around an hour + on a ride I can feel it in my neck. The change in bars might be an alternative that I will have to look into. Thanks.
Frank.
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Are you going to be able to devote more time to riding? A road bike isn't a fast bike as much as it really is an endurance bike. Of course like any bike you can equip it and adjust your fit to it so it leans more towards fast.
If are not going to increase the amount of time you spend in the saddle per ride, then it really is not a big deal which way you go. If you just like the looks and color of the bike, go for it.
If are not going to increase the amount of time you spend in the saddle per ride, then it really is not a big deal which way you go. If you just like the looks and color of the bike, go for it.
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Are you going to be able to devote more time to riding? A road bike isn't a fast bike as much as it really is an endurance bike. Of course like any bike you can equip it and adjust your fit to it so it leans more towards fast.
If are not going to increase the amount of time you spend in the saddle per ride, then it really is not a big deal which way you go. If you just like the looks and color of the bike, go for it.
If are not going to increase the amount of time you spend in the saddle per ride, then it really is not a big deal which way you go. If you just like the looks and color of the bike, go for it.
Thanks, Frank.
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