Specialized In Between Sizing
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Specialized In Between Sizing
I am currently shopping for a new Specialized road bike and I was hoping I could get some help on sizing. I am 16 and about 5'6 1/2". I am basically right in between a small and a medium frame from the models I am looking at. I still have probably a couple of inches left in me and I was wondering if I could squeeze onto a medium so I could keep it longer.
Thanks,
voz
Thanks,
voz
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Tough decision. It's easier to make a smaller frame ride bigger with a longer stem and more exposed seatpost (it's more pro, too) and more difficult to adapt a larger frame to ride smaller. A smaller frame will be lighter, stiffer, and more nimble in general, so if you want to get fast at cycling and don't have flexibility issues, then you should be able to ride it even if you grow a few inches taller. But if you prefer stable handling from a longer wheelbase or a smaller saddle to bar drop, then get the medium.
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You may well be able to work with a slightly large bike. There is quite a bit of adjustment possible on bike fit. On the saddle position, they can slide forward or back through a range of several cm. Additionally, a typical seat post is built so that when the saddle is centered over the clamping mechanism the saddle is set back and not centered over the seat post. there are seat posts made so that the saddle is centered over the post. This results in some more adjustment in the saddle location, in addition to being able to slide the saddle forward or back several cm, at the relatively minor cost of a new seat post should that be necessary.
The location of the handle bar is adjustable also because stems are available ranging from say, 75mm to 130mm. This is a considerable range. Whether these possible adjustments are enough to justify the purchase is your call.
An alternate possibility is to look for an other bike at a consignment shop. My first bike, about 10 years ago, was such a bike and I paid $65 dollars for it. It was an inexpensive brand but worked perfectly and was ridden for a whole summer. I would likely still be ridding it if it were not too big by a lot. If you were to find such a bike, you could ride it until your additional inches come in. Good luck in finding what you need.
The location of the handle bar is adjustable also because stems are available ranging from say, 75mm to 130mm. This is a considerable range. Whether these possible adjustments are enough to justify the purchase is your call.
An alternate possibility is to look for an other bike at a consignment shop. My first bike, about 10 years ago, was such a bike and I paid $65 dollars for it. It was an inexpensive brand but worked perfectly and was ridden for a whole summer. I would likely still be ridding it if it were not too big by a lot. If you were to find such a bike, you could ride it until your additional inches come in. Good luck in finding what you need.
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I was in the same boat. I went with a 52cm frame and added a 120mm stem; more seatpost showing looks better, IMO. I also dropped the bars so only the base, stem spacer is on.
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OP, do you really think you'll grow that much? I ask because I don't think I got any taller after 16 (wider, yes.)
That said, there's not a huge difference between the frames, and if you are truly in between, you could probably go either way. Have you ridden both? Which are you more comfortable on?
That said, there's not a huge difference between the frames, and if you are truly in between, you could probably go either way. Have you ridden both? Which are you more comfortable on?
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Go the medium IMO. Small frames have compromised geometry and toe overlap. Anything smaller than what used to be called a 54 should have a smaller front wheel than 700C.
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go bigger and shorting stem/steering set up. I am ideally a frame size 57 but that is not a common size so I always go for a 58 and make it fit.
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Makes it pretty tough to look cool doing a trackstand at the lights...
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Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
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#11
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Not to hijack, but toe overlap is not an issue as long as you are aware of it. All my bikes have it. No biggie.
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Apparently it's not an issue for some folks, but others feel you should be able to steer a bike unimpeded.
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Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
Sheldon Brown's bike info ~~~ Park Tools repair help
Half-step triple, using double gear ~~~ 6400 STI rebuild walkthrough ~~~ Want 8/9/10s @126mm OLD? OCR. ~~~ Shimano cassette body overhaul ~~~ Ergopower Escape wear repair ~~~ PSA: drivetrain wear
List of US/Canada bike co-ops ~~~ Global list
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There's always the exception to the rule. I recently got cut-off by a vehicle, while slowly crawling uphill, to make a left onto the road. I wasn't sure of the vehicle's intended path, which caused me to slow to a halt, then try and swerve out of its way. I got toe overlap and nearly went down. Luckily my cleats are fairly worn and I just barely un-clipped fast enough.
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Asking a bunch of questions when you are new is a very good idea. What I take issue with is that you open a new thread for each new question. Makes it difficult to follow your thought process. I have had to look at multiple threads to try and figure out where you are going. Honestly, my head is spinning trying to follow your timeline. Is this question newer than the last question you asked? Was it older? You seem to be fixated on the idea of racing in the future. Don't look at road bikes with 10 speed cassettes unless you want neutral support cars that only have 11 speed wheels to be unable to help you. Doesn't matter if the bike you look at is a dedicated race bike, many races have been won on good bikes that were designed for less competitive events. A bike designed for criterium racing would fare badly at Paris Roubaix. For a newcomer, a bike designed for Cyclosportifs,(Gran Fondos) is an excellent beginner's race bike. These are the sort of bikes pros use for races like the cobbled classics.
#15
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At age 16, females typically reach 90% of their height growth. Males are at 70%. There are outliers, and family history plays a factor. All the fitting tools show me to a 56, however I choose to go 58 and a shorter stem. I like the seat to handlebar height difference to be minimal.