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Di2 build with complications

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Di2 build with complications

Old 12-18-19, 09:39 AM
  #1  
MAKparshall
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Di2 build with complications

I need advise on a project I have, my dedline for when the project starts is newyears. I have a trek 2100zr. If your not fimiliar with it, it is an aluminum bike with carbon seat stays and fork. I intend to replace its mix of 9, 10, and even 11 speed mismatched components, with dura ace 9070 groupset(Ive opted for 9070 insted of 9150 for astedic reasons). I want to use the internal battery instead of the external batter. but my bike has no internal cable routing, since I already bought the parts I am just going to make it work. I have no fear of voiding the warenty, because ive already doen that after getting a braze on mount welded on to the frame because at the time I was unawear that there was an adapter. I am not afraid to dril the frame, I know a guy who works at a machine shop and is willing to help me drill the holes. I want to finde a method that hides the cables fairly wel and puts the battery in the frame and uses my jc41 junction, because I am not interested in buying a jc40.I can 3d print simple parts to alow me to achive this goal.

reguirements:

I need full drive train functionality
battery to be mounted internaly

I cant buy any new components because my money is wrped up in raxce entrys for 2020

no holes in the carbon seat stays

no modification to the components other than heatshrink

it NEEDS to be water proof because I ride in the rain alot

goals:
minimal holes

clean look

aero

I would prefer to avoid removing the bb(rather drill an extra hole that remove the bb, unles it means no holes in my frame)

ive thouht about puting the junction b on my chai stay and routing the di2 cable throught that hole in my chain stay to the battery, If that will work, that would be my prefered option,

thanks in advance for any help that I can get!
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Old 12-18-19, 10:25 AM
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Are the chain stays carbon or aluminum?
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Old 12-18-19, 12:47 PM
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aluminum
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Old 12-18-19, 02:13 PM
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Spell check is a free upgrade. It will help differentiate you from a moronic slacker. It will be better to remove the bottom bracket for access. It is not difficult.
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Old 12-18-19, 05:46 PM
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SRAM Etap Wireless

I am a big Shimano Di2 fan, have 3 bikes with it and love it. In this case though, Sram Etap wireless would be the way to go.
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Old 12-18-19, 06:52 PM
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Steve B.
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Aero ?, did you really list that as a criteria ?

My first thought was just buy a Chinese carbon frame for like, $350 shipped. Comes with holes for electronic cable routing.

But if that’s too risky, while drilling holes in the frame is not, you really only need 3 holes, one on the downtube near the head tube, either side works, one in the seat tube near the F derailer and one a few inches forward of the rear derailer on that sides chainstay, for that cable. When drilling, make sure the hole is sized for the E-tube connector.

Take out the bottom bracket if its BSA. Replace it while it’s out. It’s much easier to run cables, place the B Junction, etc... with the b-bracket out. It’s really easy to take out and install a BSA bottom bracket.

Di2 as a system is inherently waterproof so the only issue to deal with is going to be holes in the frame. Shimano sell Di2 rubber grommets of various sizes.

OR as others have stated, sell the whole component system and buy SRAM electronic.

Last edited by Steve B.; 12-18-19 at 07:43 PM.
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Old 12-19-19, 07:49 AM
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Since you mentioned not buying anything new, I donít think you need to over complicate. It will be much easier though to remove the bb vs drilling additional holes. Assuming you have proper length wires all you need to do is drill your entry and exit holes in the aluminum areas. Doing guide wires will be the toughest part which isnít so tough! Iíve installed my DI2 from scratch a couple of times it is much easier with the BB removed. Also download the full shop install manual from shimano.

here is a link to the rubber grommets you need.

https://www.competitivecyclist.com/shimano-ultegra-di2-grommets?skid=SHI0396-ONECOL-S6MMCIR&CMP_SKU=SHI0396&MER=0406&CSPID=0914&mr:trackingCode=04CA51D2-163E-E311-BA35-001B21BCB944&mr:referralID=NA&mr:device=m&mr:adType=plaonline&mr:ad=185039796446&mr:keyword=&mr:matc h=&mr:tid=pla-654568441641&mrloc=9031367&mr:iloc=&mr:store=&mr:filter=654568441641&CMP_ID=PLA_GMm014&CSPID=0914& utm_source=Google&utm_medium=PLA&k_clickid=_k_EAIaIQobChMI3ejyj-zB5gIVAtlkCh305QnLEAQYAiABEgKeIPD_BwE_k_&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3ejyj-zB5gIVAtlkCh305QnLEAQYAiABEgKeIPD_BwE
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Old 12-19-19, 09:22 AM
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It's a shame 1500SLR was banned. He would finally have something useful to add.
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Old 12-19-19, 02:01 PM
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I opted for di2 because of etube and because it only has 1 battery, I will get the grommets . thanks!
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Old 12-20-19, 01:59 AM
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Originally Posted by MAKparshall
I opted for di2 because of etube and because it only has 1 battery, I will get the grommets . thanks!
also check out trekís battery mount for seat tubes. The 2013 version was intended for their domaine and madone seat masts but it was pretty adaptable and I would tend to believe that it could be fiddled with to fit most seat tubes. Canít speak to any other model years but not difficult to find a way to shim and support.

good luck and would certainly like to see pics of your install
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